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You're not getting the link posted correctly. It should look like this:


Got it I'll post up the rest of the pics. Here is the oxygen sensor I put in First time I've been on a forum but I'm catching on..
The egr valve is what I'm working on removing where the ice cream is at
I'll put up some more pics and anyone experienced who has done this before post up some recommendations..
anyone ever tooken off this vacuum modulator to check the filter. Send me a link or some steps. I'll also post up a pic of the bad oxygen sensor bank 1 in case you want to compare your oxygen sensor etc.
 
I'll put up some more pics and anyone experienced who has done this before post up some recommendations..anyone ever tooken off this vacuum modulator to check the filter. Send me a link or some steps. I'll also post up a pic of the bad oxygen sensor bank 1 in case you want to compare your oxygen sensor etc.
The modulator filter is under the plastic cap on top. It just snaps on, so there's really no need to remove the modulator. After you get the cap off, the filter just lifts out. It's a simple disk made of a coarse fiber.

Here's a couple of DIY threads showing how to remove the EGR on the 4 cyl:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-1997-2001/252699-diy-egr-valve-removal.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...97-2001/321901-egr-valve-replacement-diy.html

will a bad downstream o2 cause stalling?
No.
 
Here's a couple of DIY threads showing how to remove the EGR on the 4 cyl:

DIY : EGR Valve removal

EGR Valve Replacement, DIY.
Ok so neither one of these show a good way of tearing apart the egr bottom bolts. I suspect that it might be risky with a car with bolts that have been in the same position for over 15 years. I already attempted a few times to take them off with no success but only spent a couple of minutes trying. I already took off the two screws on the side even though they weren't in the best position but those two bottom bolts are whole other story. Also do you think its better to take off the pipe as in those two diy's. I'm kind of new to all of this so I might be pushing it.
The modulator filter is under the plastic cap on top. It just snaps on, so there's really no need to remove the modulator. After you get the cap off, the filter just lifts out. It's a simple disk made of a coarse
Ok so I got to the filter after prying off the top slowly with a mini flat head screw driver here are some pics
The filter is upside down I noticed here is the filter up close. First method I used to try to clean this little dirty filter was the air method with the ultra duster with no difference.
This is the cleanest I could get it with water clean method and then adding some dish washing soap and water and still dirty

So my thoughts are is there any way to replace the filter or put something that is similar to the material. Would you just replace the egr vacuum modulator based on the filter being so dirty?

So next I posted a pic of my bad upstream oxygen sensor that I replaced.
I changed it with the denso 234-9024 (I did try one of those cheaper ones before buying the denso and I had to return it. The codes didn't clear so I would recommend the denso since its the original from toyota. Also I noticed that they recommended upgrading from the original 893467-33010 and my research has told me that on a 1997 4 cycle california models the upstream oxygen sensors were not well made and don't last like the downstream. So why wouldn't toyota issue a recall on the upstream sensor since it seems to be an obvious defective part??) and the best price that I got it for was off of amazon for around 88 total.

Ok so also I made a universal cleaner (consists of a plain white t shirt wrapped around a nylon brush) here are some pics of the method I used to clean out the crap by the throttle body

I sprayed some throttle body cleaner and scrubbed with plain white t shirts switching from different methods including the following (just scrubbing after spraying, spraying the tshirt scrubbing then putting the dry side of the shirt and scrubbing, using a small flat head screw driver and lightly scraping the crap I could reach then spraying cleaner and then scrubbing with the t shirt here are some of the pics
I did this like 25-30 times and probably do it some more but still not able to get it all off

One more note and it has to do with the oxygen sensor being put back anyone used this item from harbor freight. It was good for taking off the oxygen sensor but then when I put it back on it got stuck onto the oxygen sensor and I had to spray some liquid wrench to remove it. I was kind of disappointed in it. Any methods I could have used as a first time oxygen sensor installer or is it just a crappy prod and needs to be sent back..
 
Also do you think its better to take off the pipe as in those two diy's.
Sorry, I have no idea, not having worked on a 4-banger. I suspect either approach could be difficult, depending on how stuck the threads are. The effects of hot exhaust gases on fasteners is tough to predict.

So my thoughts are is there any way to replace the filter or put something that is similar to the material. Would you just replace the egr vacuum modulator based on the filter being so dirty?
Nah. As long as it passes air, it's OK. It's just there to keep dirt from getting into the engine when the modulator is sucking air thru it.
 
Sorry, I have no idea, not having worked on a 4-banger. I suspect either approach could be difficult, depending on how stuck the threads are. The effects of hot exhaust gases on fasteners is tough to predict.
I decided to back off for now and put back all the parts.
Nah. As long as it passes air, it's OK. It's just there to keep dirt from getting into the engine when the modulator is sucking air thru it.
I left it alone for now and put everything back to see if my CEL went away. I put up a new post but I'll put here also. I started with the codes p1130 p0125 p1135 p0171 p0401 p133 before putting in the upstream oxygen sensor (so i thought this would get rid of the CEL plus I did some extras with taking apart different parts as you see above) all those are gone now but I got these two codes now p0120 which has to do with the tp sensor switch and also a brand new p0450 evap pressure sensor. I think the p0120 came from all the tearing apart of parts but the p0450 just came out of nowhere I guess. Where should I go next. I'm just a beginner. Car seems to be running good but I want to get rid of the CEL by March.
 
Used a sledge hammer to get mine out

Yes, you twist towards the end of the car, or counter clockwise.

They are a b*tch to remove usually, Heat the base a lot, until you can see with your eyes that the thing is really hot. Mine wasn't RED hot, but you could tell it was really really hot. Don't heat the sensor itself, just the base. Heat/lube/try/heat/lube/try/heat/lube/try. It has to come out at some point.

Good luck!
After heating, I used vise-grips with a pipe on the handle to extend leverage and then I hit it with a 10 lb sledge. Captured my struggles on video if anyone's curious to see how I did it.

http://youtu.be/-ivgya9rOLo
 
7/8 ratcheting box wrench and exhaust pipe...

On my 98 ES 300 I sprayed a bunch of liquid wrench on the threads waited a couple hours and then slipped a 7/8 ratcheting box wrench over the disconnected wire (grommet took some pushing) and onto the sensor and then slipped a 2-3 foot broken piece of exhaust pipe (from a 2002 Celica) over the other end of the wrench. That gave me enough leverage to crack it loose. :grin: I did not have to remove the driver seat to disconnect/reconnect.
 
I didnt quite understand the diagrams, some people are saying to remove the passenger side seats, other saying the drivers side and some say not to remove the seats one guy even said the backseats lol. Where exactly is the plug located, i'm just going to take a knife through the carpet
 
Unless I rent a lift, no way I can get that amount of leverage from under the car, would a impact driver or an impact wrench work? Or will it destroy the entire exhaust system into a cloud of rust dust lol

To the poster above, see the video that @floridajoe posted:


Move driver seat forward and access from behind from the passenger side.
Should be right above the right air vent on the LH side
 
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