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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, here it is folks.

I replaced the el cheapo stock speakers with a 6x9 pioneer 3-way coax speakers, no external amp needed.

I didn't do any extensive research. I just wanted a cheap replacement, something a little shallow so it wouldn't hit the window when it's rolled down.
I also wanted a 3-way vs. 2 way. Not sure if it's gimmicky, but it seemed to fill in nicely, where as the stocks were "hollow"-can't put it in words (don't know the audio technical term).

Original was $90 at fry's, but was on sale for $35:thumbsup:

Product Title: Pioneer TSA-6963R

Description: Pioneer TSA-6963R 6 x9 inch 3-Way Speaker 250W (TSA6963R)

Specifications:
Woofer Cone Material: Carbon Graphite IMPP Interlaced Aramid/Basalt Fiber Cone
Surround: Foamed Rubber Coated-Cloth
Voice Coil Bobbin: Glass-Imide
Damper: Aramid Fiber
Mid-Range: 2-1/4' Lightweight Balanced Dome with Magnetic Fluid
Tweeter: 11/16' Dome tweeter
Basket Design: Full Depth Basket for Rich Bass Response
Speaker Grille: Included
Watts MAX. Music Power: 270 Watts
Sensitivity (1W/1m): 93dB
Ohm Rating: 4 ohm

Manufacturer URL: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/
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el cheapo stock speaker is on the left and right




back, look at that puny magnet! Just point and laugh while you're at it:lol:



OK, on to removing the door panel:

First, remove the top sail. Grab at the top and pull towards you. The bottom angle just clips into the door as seen.


L-shaped clips into the hole next to the red tape


you can see the white clip still stuck on the door. pull it off with a needle nose plier and re-attach to the black sail. some sound deadener shown from an early project.


reattach to the top slot



1st screw to remove, hidden behind the door cap. pull and hold door handle while using a finger/screw driver and kinda wedge it out.


door handle comes out


behind the door panel where the door handle attached to the panel.


to remove the window/door lock switch, I gently wedged/grabbed/pull on the lower section and worked my way up.



detach the blue harness from power window switch:



2nd philips screw holding the door grab to door panel


3rd screw, door bumper



to remove the door panel, I grabbed on the outer lower right and left and pulled towards me. if any of the white clips is still stuck to door, just remove and reattach to the door panel again.


here it is with the panel off


back view


detach the speaker wire, remove the 4 philip screws holding the speaker


behind the speaker, some sound dampening added earlier


2.5" clearance from window rolled down to the door


I didn't want to wait and order the speaker brackets, so I made it with some left over wood panels I had before.

If you know you're not going to re-use the old speakers, you use a dremel, and cut it out to use as brackets:thumbsup:

If not, then continue here.
It's going to be a little high tech here, so brace yourself.

to make a speaker adapter, I used a regular paper, line it up with the 4 holes from plastic anchors, secure it with the screws, and scribed it with my nails all along the edge. this is the main template.

puncture a hole in the upper right for that plastic clip that you don't want to cover up with your bracket later on.



a template from pioneer to know where to cut and drill the holes to secure the speaker to the bracket


by the time I got done with this, my camera battery was low and it was getting dark.

basically, I cut the inside hole, drop the new speaker in, attach the speaker to the bracket and the bracket to the door.

For the left speaker, wire diagram. I read on a couple of the sites earlier and this was what's shown. If someone knows this is wrong, please correct me:

Left front speaker:
Green = +
Blue = -


Right front speaker:
Red = +
White = -

The door speakers won't work when the wire is detached (duh), BUT the top tweeters(midrange?) on the dash still works.

So, I basically have a 4-way....................speakers that is:naughty:

Comments, criticisms, questions are welcome
 

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Thank god SOMEONE did this! Finally, i've been waiting! You just need to do the top dash now so I can see how that's done along with the ultra crappy rear speakers ;)

Thanks for the write-up. I imagine the speakers fit well with no fitment issues...how do they sound? Any good since you didn't add an amp?

Also, why did you go with 6x9 as opposed to 6 1/2?

Also, that speaker is said to be 2 7/8" depth but you show 2 1/2" for room with the window down. They don't hit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank god SOMEONE did this! Finally, i've been waiting! You just need to do the top dash now so I can see how that's done along with the ultra crappy rear speakers ;)

Thanks for the write-up. I imagine the speakers fit well with no fitment issues...how do they sound? Any good since you didn't add an amp?

Also, why did you go with 6x9 as opposed to 6 1/2?

Also, that speaker is said to be 2 7/8" depth but you show 2 1/2" for room with the window down. They don't hit?
no problem.

I just wanted to stay with the 6x9"s, no other concrete decision

I left the dash tweeters there, since it was powered on its own already.

with the bracket, it probably spaced the speakers towards the door panel so it didn't hit the window.

You did it! You posted it. Hehe. Thanks!
no problem:thumbsup:
I took awhile to upload all of pictures

so how's the sound? big different? not too much? So OEM speaker upgrade? worth it or not?

what able the speakers on the rear?

thanks thanks
the sound is much clearer. it seems to fill in the mids and highs, not too bright or piercing. bass was little better, but again I'm not expecting much without a dedicated subwoofer (working on putting one in the hatch like the oem).

the oem sounded hollow and anemic.

I'm not going to replace the rear speakers-they're fillers only and you only hear the fronts.

For under $100 (luckily $35 in my case), it's definitely worth it considering you don't need an external amp.:thumbsup:
 

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Ok, the instructions rock. I replaced mine with JL 6x9 TR series 3-ways and did the dremmel out the factory speakers to use their brackets. Worked perfectly and sound is great. The mids really fill in which is nice. I also ran power to the rear and hooked up a small 8" sub in a box. It's small enough to not take up much room and easily disconnected if I need to remove it. That small sub box makes a world of difference. I wanted to put a sub in the factory location but the only open air subs I could find was the same crappy 8x12 sub. Oh, I mounted the amp for the sub to the sub box so it wouldn't take up even more room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You the man!!! thanks for making this! make one for the rear.
I'm not replacing the rears.
Panels are little more time consuming than the front doors esp. the driver's side due to the 8th seat storage area.

i have these sitting at home Sony Explod xs-r5743 5x7 4 way speakers. Do you guys think it would work? thnx
as long as it's not a component set, then it should work.

just be prepared to make/order brackets though. check the magnet clearance. if it hits, you might need bigger spacers, then you need to check for clearance from hitting the door panel when you put it back together.
 

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Hello there.
I replaced mines with the Kenwood KFC-1662S (3-way, 6 1/2) and the installation was really easy (thanks gs3tek).
I have an Alpine INA-W900BT and the sound is just awful. Now, is it because of the speakers, do I need an amplifier?
I'll go the guys who installed my Alpine and see what they say.

 

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Awesome.
I will look into the 5 1-4" for the rear. Wouldn't u think Toyota would place the 6x9s in the back and maybe 6 1-2" in the front. Rob are there any mods that need to be done to fit the aftermarket speaker in the rear panels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Awesome.
I will look into the 5 1-4" for the rear. Wouldn't u think Toyota would place the 6x9s in the back and maybe 6 1-2" in the front. Rob are there any mods that need to be done to fit the aftermarket speaker in the rear panels?
I wish I'd pay attention to the rears, but if it's not a drop-in, at most, you can make your own speaker bracket.
 

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I got my upgrades...

I got my speakers everyone.
I decided to go with 6 1/2 polk DB components up front
5.25 polk MM 2way coxial in rear (I hope they squeeze in, I have gotten two different depth answers)
JVC GPS-HD tuner audio/video DD Deck
Kenwood KAC-8405 4 channel.
No bass, I wanna hear the quality of the music first and plus wife doesnt wana hear the boom boom boom of subs having a 9 month old.
I will keep you guys updated!
 

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I got my speakers everyone.
I decided to go with 6 1/2 polk DB components up front
5.25 polk MM 2way coxial in rear (I hope they squeeze in, I have gotten two different depth answers)
JVC GPS-HD tuner audio/video DD Deck
Kenwood KAC-8405 4 channel.
No bass, I wanna hear the quality of the music first and plus wife doesnt wana hear the boom boom boom of subs having a 9 month old.
I will keep you guys updated!
Give them both ear protection! LOL! :D
 

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I got my speakers everyone.
I decided to go with 6 1/2 polk DB components up front
5.25 polk MM 2way coxial in rear (I hope they squeeze in, I have gotten two different depth answers)
JVC GPS-HD tuner audio/video DD Deck
Kenwood KAC-8405 4 channel.
No bass, I wanna hear the quality of the music first and plus wife doesnt wana hear the boom boom boom of subs having a 9 month old.
I will keep you guys updated!
Just shut the sub off when she/they are in the car. That's what I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I got my speakers everyone.
I decided to go with 6 1/2 polk DB components up front
5.25 polk MM 2way coxial in rear (I hope they squeeze in, I have gotten two different depth answers)
JVC GPS-HD tuner audio/video DD Deck
Kenwood KAC-8405 4 channel.
No bass, I wanna hear the quality of the music first and plus wife doesnt wana hear the boom boom boom of subs having a 9 month old.
I will keep you guys updated!
Congratulations:thumbsup:

I also was going to replace the rear speakers but there were no difference at all when they were all on.

Rear speakers are fillers so I didn't even bother replacing those.

Besides, when I have the kids with me, I fade the speakers to the front anyways.
 

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I got my speakers everyone.
I decided to go with 6 1/2 polk DB components up front
5.25 polk MM 2way coxial in rear (I hope they squeeze in, I have gotten two different depth answers)
JVC GPS-HD tuner audio/video DD Deck
Kenwood KAC-8405 4 channel.
No bass, I wanna hear the quality of the music first and plus wife doesnt wana hear the boom boom boom of subs having a 9 month old.
I will keep you guys updated!

I just replaced my fronts with Polk MM components and now I think I want to do the rears as well. I was considering exactly what you purchased - the KAC-8405 amp and the MM 5.25 coaxial for the rear. Just wondering if you have installed them yet; if so, did they fit okay? any pictures?

I think I'll place the amp under the front driver seat, where did you mount yours?
 
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