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CorollaCarClub.proboards.
93 & 98 Rolla
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This DIY is of the front wheel bearing , These year vehicles do not have a HUB sealed bearing they have a bearing only and the HUB is sold seperatly only if needed . These must be pressed on and off .





First make sure you secure your rear tire and you use jack stands . Then once you jack up the vehicle you can start removing the tire and wheel .





Once the tire is off then you remove the cotter pin that holds the CV shaft through the bearing and the nut lock .



There are many ways you can remove the CV shaft nut . Since I was working alone I put the tire back on and lowered the car and then with my torque wrench I removed it . you can use a air gun , you can have someone step on the brake , You can do one side at a time but in this case I was doing both sides .



Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line .



Then I removed my brake caliper and set it some where so it doesn't interfere or stretch the brake line .



Then I removed the break caliper bracket or the torque plate as the book calls it . Some people remove the whole bracket instead of the caliper but since I'm not in a rush I removed it in this order .



Then I ONLY loosen the nut on the bottom strut .



Then I ONLY loosen the top nut on the strut .





Then I removed the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the nut for the tie rod .



http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_
Q2B2pa6pitU/S5gUf8tTGRI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/nC5MaiCIcH8/s320/bearings+015.jpg

Then you remove the cotter pin and ONLY loosen the ball joint nut . The reason I say to loosen only these nuts cause you still have to remove the strut .



Once you have everything loosened up then you can put something on the bottom of the strut and lower the vehicle so that it presses the spring smaller . Then with your spring compressor you can put it on . this way makes it easier then having to compress the spring you have some added help here . Once you have your spring compressor secure then you can raise the vehicle . Remove the strut bolts and nuts .







Then you can gently start tapping out your tie rod , your bearing and your CV shaft .



Then there you have it the whole spindle and assembly . Ready to take it to a shop to have them press it on and off .



This is basically what you need a inner and outer seal and the front bearing if your hub is damaged then you have to purchase that .



The red arrow is the hub part and the yellow arrow is the bearing and the blue arrow is the outer seal .



The yellow arrows show the hub and the inner seal .







The first two pictures are what it should look like when you have the new bearings and front and rear seal pressed in . Then you press in the hub and then this is what it looks like when it is completed .



Then you put everything back together . Before you put your tire back on check and recheck all your bolts , nuts , cotter pins .



Then put your tire on lower your vehicle check and recheck your lug nuts .

More DIY http://rinconrolla98.blogspot.com



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CorollaCarClub.proboards.
93 & 98 Rolla
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924 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hammering on threaded metal parts to free them is a bad idea if you intend to use those parts over again.

-SP


If you would have read correctly it says TAP not hammering , There is a difference . TAPPING will do nothing you can use a lead or brass hammer if you arent mechanically smart . Thanks for tip bub :headbang:
 

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CorollaCarClub.proboards.
93 & 98 Rolla
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924 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just did this about a month ago, I agree this is a great DIY guide.
One thing I didn't do was loosen the top strut nut, what is the reason for doing this?

I removed the strut so that I have room to work with some people don't and some people do it's all how you work on your vehicle . :D
 

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CorollaCarClub.proboards.
93 & 98 Rolla
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924 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
except you should remove the 3 nuts to drop the strut assembly, not the single nut in the middle, the spring can shoot the assembly apart.

Good point , what I did was lower the car to give it pressure then I slowly raised it up so that the spring wouldnt bounce , or you can use spring compressor :cool:
 

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Living on a Rock
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1,727 Posts
when i do my bearings i take the whole strut assembly out including the ball joint. 2 nuts and one 17MM bolt on the bottom. that way i don't need to do alignment once i get it all back in. it might cost you more when you take it to a machine shop to press them though(extra crap to move around the press) but now that i have my own press and made my own "specialized" tools for it, life is easy. and i'm willing to do it for my friends too.

 

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Hi everyone! I am new here. Where do I purchase bearing front bearing kits for the 1997 Toyota Corolla? I went to the junkyard and pulled a pair of spindle hub assemblies so I can build them out and do swap on the car. Recommendations to purchase and brand is most appreciated. I saw autohausaz has OEM NSK bearings, but I am not clear if this includes the seals and anything else that is needed. I am planning on taking the assemblies to a machine shop to have them pressed. Any recommendations in the DC Metro area? Thanks so much.
 

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Senior TN Member
Porsche
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7,505 Posts
Part# for '88-02 Corolla front wheel-bearing is 9008036040, 9008036041, 9008036063, 9036338006, 903633800677, 9036938011, 9036938016, 94846348, 94852757

SKF FW128
NSK 38BWD12
Timken 510007


And actually the hub nut is a constant friction nut which technically are supposed to be used only once and replaced with new one after removal. Which must also be matching color either black or silver to the old one and of course a new pin
That's "friction control treatment*" coating to alleviate excessive friction on nut's threads and flange-surface in order to get proper tension (stretch) on installation. Similar to how many bolts comes pre-coated with thread-locker. In this case, it's more of a lube. Friction will always change as nut is tightened to proper torque-spec (f=Nu).

TSB # DL001-98 March 6, 1998

PART NUMBER - PART NAME - COLOR
90179-22020 - Nut, Axle Hub - Silver
90178-22001 - Nut, Axle Hub - Black

Having done 4 of these in past couple years, I've found light machine-oil* on threads works just fine for re-using nut. More important to get correct torque on that nut..


* technical name, similar to "Sanitation Engineer", doesn't change function any.
 

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does anyone know if the spindles are the same across all 93 -97 corollas whether power steering or manual steering ?
I was thinking it might be easier to acquire some spindles out of the junkyard and press new bearings in that one so when I pull my car apart I can just swap out spindles real quick? has anyone done that?
 

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1997 Corolla
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I used to just buy a whole spindle and hub assembly at the junkyard, but these cars are getting fewer and further between in junkyards now.
 

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does anyone know if the spindles are the same across all 93 -97 corollas whether power steering or manual steering ?
I was thinking it might be easier to acquire some spindles out of the junkyard and press new bearings in that one so when I pull my car apart I can just swap out spindles real quick? has anyone done that?
That's really good idea!!

There's different knuckles for w/o power-steering and w/o ABS. So four different items. Parts are same between years. Also used on Camry.

right 1993 w/PS no ABS = 43211-12290 Replaces:43211-12220, 43211-12330
right 1997 w/PS no ABS = 43211-12290 Replaces:43211-12220, 43211-12330

You can use ABS spindle on non-ABS car.


Also consult multuple other threads that show you how to actually replace bearing itself.
 
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