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Discussion Starter #42
Is there a part number for the rear brake shoe spring kit?
I would have gladly looked up the part number for the brake hardware kit, but I have since sold my 1996 Camry and gave all of my receipts to the new owner. At the time, I just called the local Parts Source auto parts store and asked them for a brake hardware kit that included the return springs and this is what they gave me. Perhaps you can do the same?
 

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You don't need any special tools for this job, I just use some srcewdrivers and pliers and I can get everything done.

Also, why did you adjust the brakes at the cable? I've always adjusted them at the adjuster screw in the drums.
The tools make things go a lot smoother, but, as to adjusting the brakes at the cable, I was wondering the same thing myself. Even when I was working at Toyota, we never adjusted from there. But, I guess everyone has their own preference for that bit of it. Besides that, AWESOME and detailed DIY! Good Job!

Addition: There's been a few posts about the hand brake being "high". I believe, that all that may be needed is a rear brake service. (no need to replace shoes, drums, etc...) I have to do mine (probably sometime this week) till I do the rear disk conversion, so I'll put together a DIY if peeps are interested.
 

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Many times(esp with a car with this many miles), you will get a small ridge on the outer diameter of the drums(on the inside, where the shoes haven't contacted). When the wheel is removed, the drum "relaxes" a little, resulting in the shoes contacting the higher "ridge" making it very difficult to rotate or remove the drum. Releasing the adjustment usually will allow the drum to be removed.

Couple notes here on the whole DIY--(Very good, by the way)--make sure to keep the wheel cylinders pushed in and locked in position to prevent any foreign matl entering the bores.(might even use a zip bag to keep any cleaners off of it)
As soon as the drum is off- I'd hit the whole thing with Superclean, then rinse everything off--holds down the dust, gets it clean, then you can use the Brakeclean for the final cleaning(as stated-it evaps fast)
The shoes definitely were dragging on the drums. The right drum was impossible to turn by hand. The left drum was only slightly difficult to turn by hand. How this happened is beyond me. This is my first time taking them apart.

I do know that the parking brake was not working anymore. I previously adjusted the cable from inside of the car as tight as it would go, but still got 10+ clicks when I pulled up the handle. Even with the parking brake handle pulled up 10 clicks, the car would easily roll on even the slightest grade.

I was a bit worried that one or both of the parking brake cable jackets might have a crack in them that water had penetrated and rusted the cable tight, preventing them from working properly. I had this happen on my 1982 Tercel and had to replace both parking brake cables. Fortunately, I was able to free up the right side by alternating pulling the cable at the drum and at the parking brake lever inside the car. I am hoping it will remain free and the auto adjusters will work correctly now.

After replacing the shoes, the parking brake is now working properly. Keeeping my fingers crossed!
 

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chuggin' along
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As mentioned in several replies in this thread, the threaded holes in the brake drum can be used to help remove the brake drum if it has rusted to the hub. I had to use screws in these two threaded holes to remove the brake drum on my 94 Camry. I wanted to mention that the screws I used were 8M x 1.25 and about 2" long. I didn't see the screw size listed in any of the replies (if it was, my apologies for the duplicate info).
 

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Shoe hold down spring

Has anyone else had an issue with the shoe hold down spring and cap rubbing on the back of the hub/lug bolts? For some reason I can't get these out of the way and it makes a good bit of noise. Doesn't make sense.
 

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Why not let the self adjuster process do most of the adjusting? Most guides say to keep rotating the star wheel until slight restiance is felt when turning the drum then put it all back together. Why not install the wheel with the pads loose to make it easier then use the self adjusting process to snug it up properly? This would also prevent making the pads too tight and having them drag. Is there a reason to do most of the adjusting by hand first?

Some guides say you need to brake from reverse to get them to adjust. This one says you need to use the parking brake lever others show the normal brake pedal being able to activate the self adjuster. Which one of these is right?
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Is the adjuster on a 92 Camry on the top or bottom? This one shows it at the top others on the bottom.
 

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Why not let the self adjuster process do most of the adjusting? Most guides say to keep rotating the star wheel until slight restiance is felt when turning the drum then put it all back together. Why not install the wheel with the pads loose to make it easier then use the self adjusting process to snug it up properly? This would also prevent making the pads too tight and having them drag. Is there a reason to do most of the adjusting by hand first?

Some guides say you need to brake from reverse to get them to adjust. This one says you need to use the parking brake lever others show the normal brake pedal being able to activate the self adjuster. Which one of these is right?
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Is the adjuster on a 92 Camry on the top or bottom? This one shows it at the top others on the bottom.

It causes problems when the shoes are too loose, when the wheel cylinder pistons extend too far, the shoes don't make good contact with the drum, problems with the parking brake cable adjustment, etc.

It is much better to get it fairly snug as instructed previously, THEN let the self-adjuster do its work.
 

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Does the hole circled in green ever used in the whole process?

Hi guys,

I'm a little puzzled. Does the hole circled in green ever used in the whole process? Please see the picture for Step 25. Thanks.
 

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Anyone knows the thickness of the new OEM brake shoes and drums? And according to Toyota, at what thickness level should we replace them? Thanks!
 

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My parking brake works properly as if now. I have read all the above comments. Just want to confirm 2 points.

1 there is no need to take the center console apart and adjust the parking cable there, right?

I can see OP did that trying to solve the malfunction of his parking cable. But that effort failed. He in the end replaced the whole cable. So he really should have edited out all these steps. They're just unnecessary and confusing here.

2 how exactly does self-adjuster work?

If the self-adjuster is tied to the parking cable, it has to be adjusted via pulling up parking lever. If it is connected to one of the brake shoes, it is activated by braking, forward or reverse. I guess it is pretty easy to tell for someone who has been there.

Then the easiest way to adjust the brake is indeed as someone mentioned before. Just use the starwheel to get it reasonably close. Then use the self adjuster to get it perfect.

I appreciate OP work. Just hope we can simplify and perfect the steps as our experience accumulates. Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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The parking brake cable will stretch with time. If the drum star wheel is properly adjusted and the hand lever clicks are between specs then you don’t need to open up the center console. Can’t remember at the moment if it’s 5-8 or 6-9. If the handle needs to be pulled beyond that or is pointing at the rear passengers 😉 then you need to adjust it or get new cables if you run out of adjustment.
 

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The parking brake cable will stretch with time. If the drum star wheel is properly adjusted and the hand lever clicks are between specs then you don’t need to open up the center console. Can’t remember at the moment if it’s 5-8 or 6-9. If the handle needs to be pulled beyond that or is pointing at the rear passengers 😉 then you need to adjust it or get new cables if you run out of adjustment.
Cool, thanks! Those are steel cables. Can't imagine them to stretch that much. But I really have to try and see. Then the OP's explanation is not really unnecessary.

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Anyone knows the thickness of the new OEM brake shoes and drums? And according to Toyota, at what thickness level should we replace them? Thanks!

Let me answer my question. I took the wheels and drums off today and measured the shoes. Both shoes have slightly more than 4mm left. This is after 18 years and 135k miles. I have no access to OEM shoes. However, I bought a set of Wagner in a sale many years ago. This is one of the premium class shoes on RockAuto and it is THE most popular one as marked by a red heart on RA. Guess what is the thickness of the brand new Wagner shoes? Slightly less than 5mm. WTF!
 
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