Well today my brother in law needed his axle replaced on his 2008 Camry V6 and I thought I would make a DIY. This DIY applies to all 2002-2011 Camry and 2004-2008 Solara regardless of engine with differences only in the actual axle itself. This procedure will also apply nearly identically for many other Toyota vehicles including Sienna, Highlander, and any other Toyota with a carrier bearing on the passenger side axle.
Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.
Note: Having a helper is HIGHLY recommended but not required. While this job is actually very simple, a rusty axle bearing can make this a very difficult job.
Air Compressor (optional but recommended)
Air Hammer (optional but recommended)
1/2 inch drive Impact Gun (optional but recommended)
1/2 inch drive Impact Extensions
1/2 inch drive Breaker Bar or Large Ratchet (if no air compressor or impact gun is available)
1/2 inch drive Extensions (3”, 6” 9” preferred)
1/2 inch Drive 14mm Socket
1/2 inch Drive 17mm Socket
1/2 inch Drive 21 MM Socket
3/8 inch Drive Ratchet
3/8 inch Drive 10mm socket
Sledgehammer or Tie Rod End Removal Tool (I prefer sledgehammer)
32mm 6 Point Impact Socket (in case your new nut is different)
30mm 12 Point Impact Socket
Jack Stands
Jack
Torque Wrench
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Long Needle Nose Pliers
Diagonal Cutting Pliers (for cotter pin removal)
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Rags
Several Pry Bars/Crow Bars
New Cotter Pin for Tie Tod End
Multipurpose Grease/Lube for Carrier Bearing Bracket
Brake Parts Cleaner
Some Form or Concentrated Heat Source (optional but recommended)
Drain Pan
Small Punch
Warning: Failure to use an impact socket for axle removal could result in the socket breaking and sending pieces flying into your face. Using the correct socket is important.

1. Park your car on a level surface and shut the engine off. If using a breaker bar or ratchet to remove the wheel, loosen it now before lifting. Jack the vehicle up and secure it on jack stands using either the frame rail or pinch weld.


2. Remove the passenger side front wheel. Remove the five 21mm lug nuts and remove the passenger front wheel.
3. Remove the passenger side inner splash shield. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and using your 3/8 drive ratchet and extension remove the two 10mm bolts securing the splash shield to the fender rail. Then pry back the inner fender slightly to expose the one push clip securing the splash shield to the fender rail. Using your small flathead screwdriver, depress the center of the clip and remove it. Remove the splash shield and set it to the side.
Note: Picture is for passenger side but the concept is identical

4. Remove the axle nut. First clean the axle threads using a wire brush and spray the threads with a penetrating lubricant. Using your punch, unstake the axle nut from the axle. Then using your 12 point 30mm impact socket and impact gun or breaker bar remove the axle nut. If you do not have an impact gun and air compressor, have someone press the brake pedal while you loosen the axle nut with the breaker bar.
Caution: Failure to properly unstake the nut will result in you destroying the axle when removing it. If you hit a snag and have to keep it on, this could leave you without a vehicle for the time being.
5. Separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. Using your 17mm socket and impact gun or ratchet, remove the two nuts and one bolt that secure the ball joint to the spindle. Using your pry bar, remove the ball joint from the control arm by prying the studs out of the holes in the control arm.

6. Remove the tie rod end. Using your diagonal cutting pliers bend the cotter pin ends straight and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Then using your 17mm socket and ratchet or impact gun, remove the one 17MM castle nut from the outer tie rod end. Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle by using your sledgehammer and hitting the flattened portion of the steering arm hard with the hammer. Once the tie rod is free from the spindle, remove it and set it aside.
Caution: Do not hit the tie-rod itself in at all. Attempting to hit the tie rod end stud out of the knuckle without loosening it first will result in mushrooming the head resulting in more intense and expensive repairs.
Note: You can also use a tie-rod end puller tool for this (though they regularly destroy the boots).

7. Remove the carrier bearing bracket bolt. Using your 14mm socket, ratchet, and extension remove the one 14mm bolt on the bottom of the carrier bearing bracket bolt.

8. Remove the axle bearing retaining ring. Using your long set of needle nose pliers, depress the ears of the axle bearing retaining ring and remove it from the groove. Using your hands or pry bar, remove the retaining ring from around the axle and set it aside.

9. Remove the axle from the wheel hub. Install the axle nut on a few threads. Tap the axle nut with a hammer a few times to free the splines from the wheel hub. Then while pulling the spindle towards you with one hand, pull the axle out of the hub with the other and move it aside.
Caution: Do not hit the axle directly on the shaft. Attempting to hit the shaft directly without installing the nut first will result in mushrooming the head resulting in more intense and expensive repairs.

10. Remove the axle from the transmission. Place a drain pan under the passenger side transaxle seal. Using whatever your weapon of choice is, whack the axle/axle bearing out of the transmission/bracket. Remove the axle from the transmission.
Note: Make note of any transmission fluid you lose after removing the axle. If possible try to get a measurement so you can add more later.
Note: This is BY FAR the hardest part of the entire job. I spent 4 hours removing the axle bearing as it was seized. I used penetrating fluid, heat, and good old fashion brute force.
Note: On axles with bearings that are severely seized in the mount, my success has always come from whacking the bearing directly behind the dust cap on the bearing mount. While this will destroy that dust cap, it saves you from cutting the axle or destroying the mount itself.
Note: Only beat the bearing out directly after exhausting other methods (heat, exterior whacking, penetrating fluid, etc.) first.


11. Inspect the transaxle seal. If the seal was damaged on removal of the axle, replace it.
12. Install the new axle. Using your grease, liberally lubricate the axle carrier bearing mount. This will prevent issues should you have to do this job again. If your axle didn’t include new dust caps, transfer them from the old axle to the new axle. Maneuver the new axle into the transmission and after lining up the splines, dust cap, and bearing seat the axle fully. Seat the axle by grabbing the hub splined end and tapping the axle forward towards the transmission. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle.

13. Install the axle carrier bearing retaining ring. Press the retaining ring around the axle shaft. Then using your needle noise pliers, depress the ends of the retaining ring together and slip it into its groove. Release the pliers to seat the retaining ring in its groove.
Note: This part can be tedious and difficult. It helps to have a helper who can help push the section of the retaining ring in its groove with a screwdriver while you line up the retaining ring prior to releasing tension.
14. Install the carrier bearing bracket bolt. Using your 14mm socket and ratchet, install the 14mm carrier bearing bracket bolt hand tight.
Torque spec for the bolt is 24 lb ft.

15. Install the axle in the wheel hub. Pull the towards you and maneuver the axle into the wheel hub. Line up the splines and slip the axle through the hub all the way. Install the axle nut finger tight.
16. Install the ball joint into the lower control arm. Push the spindle towards the transmission and while using your pry bar to pry downward line the ball joint studs with the lower control arm holes. Using your 17mm socket and ratchet or impact gun, install the two nuts and one bolt securing the lower control arm to the ball joint. Torque for the nuts and bolt is 55 lb ft.
Warning: Ball joints are very important to your safety. Make sure these bolts are tight enough before driving the vehicle. I always use my impact gun to install them but don’t go crazy over tightening.
Note: A helper here is highly recommended
Note: Be sure the outer CV joint isn’t overextended outward or you will not be able to make the spindle “reach” the control arm. If this happens simply wiggle the axle to get the joint back in place.
17. Reinstall the tie rod end. Line the tie rod end up in the spindle and press the stud in the hole. Using your 17mm socket and impact gun or ratchet, install the 17mm castle nut that secure the tie rod end to the spindle. Line up a slot in the castle nut with the hole of the tie rod end and install a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin ends opposite directions to secure the cotter pin. Torque for the nut is 36 ft lbs.
Warning: Tie rod ends are very important to your safety. Make sure this nut is tight enough before driving the vehicle. I always use my impact gun to install them and make sure they are tight.
18. Install the inner splash shield. Using your 10mm socket and ratchet install the two 10mm bolts and one clip that secure the inner splash shield to the fender rail.
19. Tighten the axle nut. If you are using an impact gun, blast the nut on for approximately 7-10 seconds at full power, if using a torque wrench torque the nut to factory spec or if using a breaker bar have your helper step on the brake pedal while you tighten the axle nut. Once tightened, use your punch to stake the new axle nut in the groove. Torque for the nut is 217 lb ft.
Warning: The axle nut should be very tight. Most specs are over 200 lb ft. of torque.

20. Install the passenger side wheel. Install the five 21mm lug nuts just barely snug for now.
21. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands.
22. Using your 21mm socket and torque wrench, torque the wheels to 76 lb ft.
23. If you lost any transmission fluid, add the amount you lost. If you don’t know how much was lost, fill your transmission using whatever procedure is necessary for your transmission:
2002-2006 V6 and 2002-2009 I4 with 4 or 5 speed auto - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/560457-diy-2002-2009-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-transmission-flush-pics.html
2007-2011 V6 and 2010-2011 I4 with 6 speed auto - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/576361-diy-2007-2011-v6-i4-camry-6-speed-auto-transmission-flush-diy-pics.html
Note: If you keep the vehicle fairly level and let it sit for a while before removing the axle, you shouldn’t lose transmission fluid.
24. Go for a test drive and make sure there are no weird vibrations, grinding noises, or other weird things.
Be amazed at your work!
Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.
Note: Having a helper is HIGHLY recommended but not required. While this job is actually very simple, a rusty axle bearing can make this a very difficult job.
Air Compressor (optional but recommended)
Air Hammer (optional but recommended)
1/2 inch drive Impact Gun (optional but recommended)
1/2 inch drive Impact Extensions
1/2 inch drive Breaker Bar or Large Ratchet (if no air compressor or impact gun is available)
1/2 inch drive Extensions (3”, 6” 9” preferred)
1/2 inch Drive 14mm Socket
1/2 inch Drive 17mm Socket
1/2 inch Drive 21 MM Socket
3/8 inch Drive Ratchet
3/8 inch Drive 10mm socket
Sledgehammer or Tie Rod End Removal Tool (I prefer sledgehammer)
32mm 6 Point Impact Socket (in case your new nut is different)
30mm 12 Point Impact Socket
Jack Stands
Jack
Torque Wrench
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Long Needle Nose Pliers
Diagonal Cutting Pliers (for cotter pin removal)
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Rags
Several Pry Bars/Crow Bars
New Cotter Pin for Tie Tod End
Multipurpose Grease/Lube for Carrier Bearing Bracket
Brake Parts Cleaner
Some Form or Concentrated Heat Source (optional but recommended)
Drain Pan
Small Punch
Warning: Failure to use an impact socket for axle removal could result in the socket breaking and sending pieces flying into your face. Using the correct socket is important.

1. Park your car on a level surface and shut the engine off. If using a breaker bar or ratchet to remove the wheel, loosen it now before lifting. Jack the vehicle up and secure it on jack stands using either the frame rail or pinch weld.






2. Remove the passenger side front wheel. Remove the five 21mm lug nuts and remove the passenger front wheel.



3. Remove the passenger side inner splash shield. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and using your 3/8 drive ratchet and extension remove the two 10mm bolts securing the splash shield to the fender rail. Then pry back the inner fender slightly to expose the one push clip securing the splash shield to the fender rail. Using your small flathead screwdriver, depress the center of the clip and remove it. Remove the splash shield and set it to the side.
Note: Picture is for passenger side but the concept is identical







4. Remove the axle nut. First clean the axle threads using a wire brush and spray the threads with a penetrating lubricant. Using your punch, unstake the axle nut from the axle. Then using your 12 point 30mm impact socket and impact gun or breaker bar remove the axle nut. If you do not have an impact gun and air compressor, have someone press the brake pedal while you loosen the axle nut with the breaker bar.
Caution: Failure to properly unstake the nut will result in you destroying the axle when removing it. If you hit a snag and have to keep it on, this could leave you without a vehicle for the time being.





5. Separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. Using your 17mm socket and impact gun or ratchet, remove the two nuts and one bolt that secure the ball joint to the spindle. Using your pry bar, remove the ball joint from the control arm by prying the studs out of the holes in the control arm.




6. Remove the tie rod end. Using your diagonal cutting pliers bend the cotter pin ends straight and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Then using your 17mm socket and ratchet or impact gun, remove the one 17MM castle nut from the outer tie rod end. Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle by using your sledgehammer and hitting the flattened portion of the steering arm hard with the hammer. Once the tie rod is free from the spindle, remove it and set it aside.
Caution: Do not hit the tie-rod itself in at all. Attempting to hit the tie rod end stud out of the knuckle without loosening it first will result in mushrooming the head resulting in more intense and expensive repairs.
Note: You can also use a tie-rod end puller tool for this (though they regularly destroy the boots).









7. Remove the carrier bearing bracket bolt. Using your 14mm socket, ratchet, and extension remove the one 14mm bolt on the bottom of the carrier bearing bracket bolt.


8. Remove the axle bearing retaining ring. Using your long set of needle nose pliers, depress the ears of the axle bearing retaining ring and remove it from the groove. Using your hands or pry bar, remove the retaining ring from around the axle and set it aside.


9. Remove the axle from the wheel hub. Install the axle nut on a few threads. Tap the axle nut with a hammer a few times to free the splines from the wheel hub. Then while pulling the spindle towards you with one hand, pull the axle out of the hub with the other and move it aside.
Caution: Do not hit the axle directly on the shaft. Attempting to hit the shaft directly without installing the nut first will result in mushrooming the head resulting in more intense and expensive repairs.


10. Remove the axle from the transmission. Place a drain pan under the passenger side transaxle seal. Using whatever your weapon of choice is, whack the axle/axle bearing out of the transmission/bracket. Remove the axle from the transmission.
Note: Make note of any transmission fluid you lose after removing the axle. If possible try to get a measurement so you can add more later.
Note: This is BY FAR the hardest part of the entire job. I spent 4 hours removing the axle bearing as it was seized. I used penetrating fluid, heat, and good old fashion brute force.
Note: On axles with bearings that are severely seized in the mount, my success has always come from whacking the bearing directly behind the dust cap on the bearing mount. While this will destroy that dust cap, it saves you from cutting the axle or destroying the mount itself.
Note: Only beat the bearing out directly after exhausting other methods (heat, exterior whacking, penetrating fluid, etc.) first.






11. Inspect the transaxle seal. If the seal was damaged on removal of the axle, replace it.
12. Install the new axle. Using your grease, liberally lubricate the axle carrier bearing mount. This will prevent issues should you have to do this job again. If your axle didn’t include new dust caps, transfer them from the old axle to the new axle. Maneuver the new axle into the transmission and after lining up the splines, dust cap, and bearing seat the axle fully. Seat the axle by grabbing the hub splined end and tapping the axle forward towards the transmission. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle.

13. Install the axle carrier bearing retaining ring. Press the retaining ring around the axle shaft. Then using your needle noise pliers, depress the ends of the retaining ring together and slip it into its groove. Release the pliers to seat the retaining ring in its groove.
Note: This part can be tedious and difficult. It helps to have a helper who can help push the section of the retaining ring in its groove with a screwdriver while you line up the retaining ring prior to releasing tension.
14. Install the carrier bearing bracket bolt. Using your 14mm socket and ratchet, install the 14mm carrier bearing bracket bolt hand tight.
Torque spec for the bolt is 24 lb ft.

15. Install the axle in the wheel hub. Pull the towards you and maneuver the axle into the wheel hub. Line up the splines and slip the axle through the hub all the way. Install the axle nut finger tight.
16. Install the ball joint into the lower control arm. Push the spindle towards the transmission and while using your pry bar to pry downward line the ball joint studs with the lower control arm holes. Using your 17mm socket and ratchet or impact gun, install the two nuts and one bolt securing the lower control arm to the ball joint. Torque for the nuts and bolt is 55 lb ft.
Warning: Ball joints are very important to your safety. Make sure these bolts are tight enough before driving the vehicle. I always use my impact gun to install them but don’t go crazy over tightening.
Note: A helper here is highly recommended
Note: Be sure the outer CV joint isn’t overextended outward or you will not be able to make the spindle “reach” the control arm. If this happens simply wiggle the axle to get the joint back in place.
17. Reinstall the tie rod end. Line the tie rod end up in the spindle and press the stud in the hole. Using your 17mm socket and impact gun or ratchet, install the 17mm castle nut that secure the tie rod end to the spindle. Line up a slot in the castle nut with the hole of the tie rod end and install a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin ends opposite directions to secure the cotter pin. Torque for the nut is 36 ft lbs.
Warning: Tie rod ends are very important to your safety. Make sure this nut is tight enough before driving the vehicle. I always use my impact gun to install them and make sure they are tight.
18. Install the inner splash shield. Using your 10mm socket and ratchet install the two 10mm bolts and one clip that secure the inner splash shield to the fender rail.
19. Tighten the axle nut. If you are using an impact gun, blast the nut on for approximately 7-10 seconds at full power, if using a torque wrench torque the nut to factory spec or if using a breaker bar have your helper step on the brake pedal while you tighten the axle nut. Once tightened, use your punch to stake the new axle nut in the groove. Torque for the nut is 217 lb ft.
Warning: The axle nut should be very tight. Most specs are over 200 lb ft. of torque.

20. Install the passenger side wheel. Install the five 21mm lug nuts just barely snug for now.
21. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands.
22. Using your 21mm socket and torque wrench, torque the wheels to 76 lb ft.
23. If you lost any transmission fluid, add the amount you lost. If you don’t know how much was lost, fill your transmission using whatever procedure is necessary for your transmission:
2002-2006 V6 and 2002-2009 I4 with 4 or 5 speed auto - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/560457-diy-2002-2009-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-transmission-flush-pics.html
2007-2011 V6 and 2010-2011 I4 with 6 speed auto - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/576361-diy-2007-2011-v6-i4-camry-6-speed-auto-transmission-flush-diy-pics.html
Note: If you keep the vehicle fairly level and let it sit for a while before removing the axle, you shouldn’t lose transmission fluid.
24. Go for a test drive and make sure there are no weird vibrations, grinding noises, or other weird things.
Be amazed at your work!