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short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, this is going to be a work-in-progress over the next several weeks as I wait for parts and time. I'll upload sets of pics as I finish (first set to be the removal, pics in a couple days).

Back story: Some of you may remember when I blew up my '00 5S-FE driving back to California through Nevada from a cross-country trip. It threw a rod, and it's been sitting for about a year (it would also slip in reverse gear). Well, I finally found the perfect donor car: '00 with perfectly-running engine and transmission, along with just about all other mechanicals; accident damaged due to the PO's sister being on her phone and causing a pile-up. $500, expired registration but has pink slip so the Pick-n-pull will take the husk when I'm done.

I'll be swapping the good engine and trans into my '00; while they're out, I'll be resealing the engine and trans, externally (oil pan, rear main seal, oil pump, timing belt, cooling system, valve stem seals, intake, exhaust, fuel injectors, trans oil pan, diff case, O/D case, might have missed a few things). All of this has been covered before in one form or another, just thought I'd give you guys another reference. Note that the vast majority of the work is the same on a gen3 5S-FE/A140E.

BTW, feel free to check out my part-out thread in the Commerce section - there's a lot of OEM parts and stuff in good shape that will otherwise go to the Pick-n-Pull.

NOTE: This is an involved task, probably the biggest job any of us will do to our cars. This guide assumes that you have impact tools and an engine crane. Still, it's straightforward compared to other cars.

Disclaimer: As always, you may not hold me or Toyota Nation responsible for any damage or injury you experience. You follow this guide at your own risk, and you and you alone are responsible for your shenanigans.

Table of Contents

Engine/trans removal

Engine/trans separation

Engine refresh

Trans refresh

Powertrain reinstallation

Bonus: transmission aux cooler and remote filter

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #2

Note: Both the cars involved are 2000 LE, 5S-FE, A140E automatic, California emissions. If you have federal emissions or a different year, your parts may be different. You can look up parts that are suspected to differ by:

- plug your VIN into
- find the parts in the relevant diagram
- plug the given part number into any of our vendors' websites. All of their systems will tell you if the part number from japan-parts has been superseded
- you can compare that to what I'm getting for my car. I'll try and note with an asterisk any parts that may differ due to emissions or model year.

I'm using aftermarket parts unless I give you an OEM P/N. All aftermarket parts are from RockAuto unless otherwise noted. You may not need all these parts: for example, I'm replacing a bunch of exhaust hardware due to having to cut them off. Pick and choose.

Engine: top end

- valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals. Mahle VS50059

- camshaft seal. Mahle 66905

- distributor hole plug. 90339-36001

- PCV hardware. Valve (12204-74030), grommet (90480-18001), valve-to-manifold hose (12262-74100), *intake-to valve cover hose (12260-74090). Do NOT cheap out and get aftermarket PCV valves, PCV systems are calibrated for the specific application and aftermarket junk will screw up long before OEM. Toyota PCV systems are simplistic and should be changed out once a year; especially on gen4 5S-FEs, which run hotter than gen3 for emissions purposes and tend to sludge up the PCV valve earlier. Also, the grommet is annoying to remove when it gets baked hard: it might break apart and drop into the valve cover, in which case you probably have to remove the VC. Note that the intake-to-valve cover hose is different between '96-99 and '00-01

- oil cap gasket. 90430-37140

- valve stem seals. Mahle B45549 has the same seal (16x) for intake and exhaust. I also bought Enginetech S475V (intake, comes 5x per pack, need 2 packs) and Enginetech S438V (exhaust, same amounts). Get Viton (fluoroelastomer), or you'll be doing the job again when the inferior rubber seals wear out

- dogbone strut. 12363-74130

Engine: timing belt, engine lubrication seals

- timing belt kit. Aisin TKT002 is literally the OEM components, reboxed. Includes Mitsuboshi timing belt, Koyo idler pulley, Koyo tensioner pulley, Aisin water pump w/housing, and a few water pump seals (pump-to-block, heater return gasket, bypass pipe o-ring, and thermostat seal)

- timing belt tensioner spring. 90507-17003. Once and for all, this is the revised tension spring for ALL 5S-FEs. It is 46mm long and has 13 coils, and replaces the old one (90507-18030, 50mm long, 10 coils)

- oil pump gasket set. Mahle JV1137. This set includes the pump-to-block seal (paper), spaghetti seal, shaft seal, and crankshaft seal (front)

- oil pump-to-block seal. Mahle B32382. I additionally get this as it's a rubber-coated embossed metal seal, which is superior to the paper gasket in the previous entry

- oil strainer gasket. 15149-74030

- rear main seal. Mahle JV530. Includes oil seal and paper retainer gasket

- timing cover gaskets. Mahle GS33443. Normally, I would get OEM as the Mahle (and Beck/Arnley) are inferior Nitto gasketing: the foam is too stiff, and the adhesive is nonexistent. However, my life is going to be super easy since the engine is out of the car, and I don't need the superiority of OEM. However, if you are using this or other guides to do your timing belt traditionally (with the engine in the car), get the various lengths of OEM gasketing

- alternator and compressor belt. Bando 5PK1100. I hear tell there are cars out there with no compressor, or that some people want to bypass the compressor and just drive the alternator. For that you need Bando 5PK990

- power steering belt. Bando 3PK750

- quick-drain valve. Fumoto F103N, [ame][/ame]. This isn't strictly necessary, I install them on every car I get a chance as it makes draining oil marginally cleaner, but more importantly eliminates the possibility of a stripped drain plug

Engine: cooling system

- radiator cap. 16401-20353

- thermostat. 90916-03090

- radiator fan switch/thermo fan switch. Airtex/Wells 1S1386

- engine temperature sender. Beck/Arnley 158-0421

- temperature gauge sender. Beck/Arnley 201-1700

- heater inlet hose. Gates 19116

- heater return hose. Gates 19161

- water outlet seal. Mahle C30632

- water pump-to-block seal. Mahle B45742. I'm getting this - and the rest of the seals below - separately as I'm reusing the timing belt components. Note that the Aisin TB kit above already has these

- water bypass o-ring. Mahle B45772

- heater return gasket. 16258-74021

- thermostat seal. Mahle C24184

Engine: manifolds, ignition, and exhaust

- intake manifold gasket. Mahle MS16056

- throttle body gasket. 22271-03030

- *IAC valve gasket. 22215-20010 is for California emissions. Federal will be 22215-74400

- IAC valve bolt and washer upgrade. Pick up M5x0.8x16 socket head cap screws (need 4), and the same number of M5 split-lock washers

- IAC coolant hose, inlet. 16283-03030

- IAC coolant hose, outlet. 16282-03030

- EGR valve/tube gaskets. You need two, valve-to-tube (25628-74010) and valve-to-intake (25627-74011)

- *fuel injector seal kits. Beck/Arnley 158-0898 (need 4). Dunno what it is for federal injectors

- fuel pulsation damper seals. 23279-74010 (need 2)

- fuel filter banjo bolt seals. 90430-12026 (need 2)

- *fuel injector cleaning. I marked this not because the procedure is different for cleaning CA-spec vs federal injectors, but due to the differences in injectors themselves. My blown engine has Cali injectors (23209-03010 or 23209-74250, turquoise colored) and my donor engine has federal injectors (Toyota P/N 23209-74100, but the Denso stamping on the injector will say 23250-74100. Steel-bodied with green plastic). To convert a gen4 engine from federal to Cali or vice versa, all you need to do is swap injectors, throttle body + IAC, exhaust front pipe (the one with the cat), upstream O2 sensor, and ECU. Also the engine wiring harness, but note that the only notable difference is the O2 sensor connector. Everything else is the same (there is only one head P/N: 11101-79156). Oh yeah, for cleaning the injectors, just use your favorite mail-order cleaning and flow-testing service, they're all the same

- exhaust manifold gasket. Bosal 2561159

- front exhaust pipe-to-manifold gasket. Fel-Pro 23626

- catalytic converter-to-rear exhaust pipe gasket. Fel-Pro 60906

- exhaust manifold studs. 90080-11631 (need 3)

- front exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts. 90080-17187 (need 3)

- catalytic converter-to-rear exhaust pipe bolts. 91512-81035 (need 2)

- catalytic converter-to-rear exhaust pipe nuts. 90177-A0004 (need 2)

- front exhaust pipe clamp bracket. 17571-74410

- front exhaust pipe clamp bracket bolts. 91511-80820 (need 2)

- spark plugs. NGK 3452 (need 4)

- spark plug wireset. NGK 8916


- pan filter and gasket kit. Pioneer 745114

- torque converter shaft seal. Timken 223830

- axle seals. 90311-35019 (need 2)

- speed sensor o-ring. 96711-24018

- differential side retainer o-ring. 90301-99018

- differential rear/heatsink case cover gasket. 41182-32010

- overdrive case cover gasket. 34112-33010

- transmission dipstick seal. 90301-09173

- differential fill plug, drain plug, and transmission drain plug gaskets. 90430-A0003 (need 3)

- oil cooler inlet/outlet hoses. 3/8" transmission oil cooler hose cut to size, I got some from my local NAPA

Fluids/chemicals and maintenance

- oil-resistant RTV. Toyota FIPG 00295-00103. I like using the official stuff but you can get away with Permatex Ultra Black, etc.

- water pump RTV. I recommend just using Permatex water pump RTV (blue), as Toyota FIPG 08826-00100 runs $65-120 a tube

- transmission RTV. Toyota FIPG (orange) 00295-01281

- synthetic oil in your preferred grade. I'm using Walmart SuperTech 5W-30 Full Synthetic. I'm advocating synthetic oil since I'm dealing with the valve stem seal issue, and completely sealing the engine. Might as well start fresh

- coolant. I'm using Pentosin A1, which is equivalent to Toyota Long Life (Red) concentrate. Diluted 1:1 with distilled water. Another good alternative is Zerex Asian Vehicle Red, which is sold a bit cheaper under Valvoline through Walmart

- transmission fluid. I'm using Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc. You need something that meets or exceeds Dexron III specifications. Well, Dexron VI, really, since it supersedes Dex III in this application

- Zerex cooling system flush. They have two variants, the regular 10-minute flush (tetrasodium EDTA cocktail, this is what I'm using) and a stronger flush (tetrasodium EDTA + lye)

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #3


short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Start Here!

Alright, let's get down to it! Here's what you should be looking at:

First things first, get the battery out of the way.

I'm holding the hood up 'cause the struts are shot. Not replacing them sine this is a donor shell, but I did get some non-marring Lisle strut clamps for them. Well, turns out the struts are too thick and they won't work. So I need a hood prop.

...yeah, yeah, yeah. I got a hood prop on the way. Screw you.

Now we get to draining the fluids. Oil first, the drain plug is 14mm and near the passenger CV axle's inner cup:

Start it draining:

...and remove the oil filler cap to speed draining.

The oil filter is mounted under the exhaust manifold, and it almost always makes a mess when you pull it. Might want to wedge a rag under it. It's the round black thing in the middle here:

...yeah, still made a bit of a mess. Next up is transmission fluid. The pan is on the driver side, next to the subframe rail. Mine has a borked gasket and has been leaking for a while, as you can see. Note where the drain plug is.

Needs a 10mm hex bit socket (H10).

The trick to success (well, as much as you can hope for) with hex socket plugs and bolts is making sure the bit/bit socket is seated all the way in, i.e., bottom it out. All that grime and gunk? Use brake cleaner to blast it away before sticking your bit in there (wahaha). These can end up super tight, so you can either bust out your cheater pipe, or use an impact driver (NOT an impact wrench) like I did. Fluid draining:

You inspect trans fluid for color and bouquet: this stuff still has a good bit of red in it, and it didn't smell burnt. They probably did a drain-and-refill less than 10K before I got the car.

Next up is draining the differential. If you look closely at the previous pic, you can see the diff drain plug between the trans oil pan and rear subframe member. Hard to see, it's also covered in grime. It faces straight down, here's a closer pic:

...also 10mm hex. Draining:

NOTE: Normally, you would want to crack the fill plug loose first. If you drain the diff, then end up stripping the fill plug...realize that old fluid is better than no fluid. However, since we're pulling the engine you can just go at it with your impact wrench. Here's me pointing to the fill plug (17mm), which is up the back of the diff (above the heatsink on the rear cover):

After the diff and trans are drained out, stick their respective plug back in finger-tight to prevent drips (oh, and the oil drain plug, too). Then we get to draining your coolant, or in my case, water. Get the front air dam/skid plate off: a bunch of 10mm bolts. The fender liners flap over each end of the skid plate; they're bolted to the skid plate (couple bolts each side), and held to the subframe with one 10mm screw a side (screws, that go into plastic inserts, not bolts, that go into tapped holes). The fender liner flaps hide the last bolts that hold the air dam to the subframe: can see the last 10mm bolt holding the air dam, plus the white plastic insert that the fender liner flap screw goes into. Now, given that the skid plate, well, skids a lot - especially as the struts start going south and the car bounces more - a lot of your bolt heads may be marred and need extraction. This is the kind of extractor you want:

...comes as a 3/8" socket, grabs only in one direction (counterclockwise). You want to seat it on the bolt head, then turn counterclockwise until you feel it grab, then start cranking (or squeeze the trigger on your power ratchet).

Of course, if rust has seized the bolt, you might snap off the head. I didn't run into that, but then you will need a spiral extractor and a reverse cobalt drill bit. Here's the air dam out:

The radiator petcock is now accessible (pointing to it):

Stick a drain pan under it, then unscrew the petcock:

Take the radiator cap off for faster draining.

...that orange stuff? Rust. That's what happens when you run straight water (I bet tap water) in an iron block. Now you know why I spec'd the coolant flush.

You should also drain the rear block drain. Here it is, 10mm (it's on the back of the block, the little pipe thingy):

You can hook up some tubing but since my system is water I just let it drain over the flexpipe:

There's another drain on the front of the block (10mm plug, no little pipe), but IME that one shoots puppy water. The rest of the coolant is in hose bends and behind the water pump.

Next up, we gotta disconnect the throttle cables. Here's the throttle cam, connected to the throttle body:

Lift up on it to release tension on the accelerator cable:

Grab the accelerator cable and line it up with the slot:

...and pull it out toward the front of the car:

Do the same to the transmission kickdown cable (can't move the cam to help you, so will have to pull on the cable to get enough slack):

Next up, we have to unhook the three control cables from the intake tract and surrounding area. First is the throttle pass-through cable from the cruise control:

Then the erstwhile throttle cable coming from the firewall (and your Lead Foot):

...that one is also clipped a second time closer to the firewall (no pic); make sure to get that one as well, or you'll be wondering why the intake and resonator box aren't levering out. Also notice the transmission kickdown cable clipped to the clip that's bolted to the trans. Get that one as well.

Here's the various VSVs and the ambient temperature sensor that are hooked up to or near the air intake cleaner. Remove their connectors and hoses.

Once you get that done, you should see a 10mm bolt below:

...which secures the resonator box to the air cleaner. Unbolt, it'll allow the intake to duck and weave around the throttle cables.

Next, unclip the hose that feeds EVAP vapors to the intake from the intake snorkel:'ll only end up getting in your way later, so might as well undo the clamp and remove it completely from the throttle body (I assume you already took it off the EVAP VSV).

...10mm screw to undo the clamp to remove the snorkel from the throttle body. Then you have to deal with the PCV breather hose to the valve cover:

...if this hasn't been regularly changed, the valve cover end will be hard as a rock. You will probably have to chip it off. Or, you can deal with it later as I did, and just pull the adapter nipple out of the intake snorkel:

Next, pull the air intake snorkel off the throttle body, unclip the air cleaner hat, and guide the intake tract out of the car.

Notice that the bolt holding my resonator box is still attached; whoever worked on it previously routed one of the cables wrong, but that allowed me to remove the whole thing without unbolting.

Here's a common "issue" that's been repaired previously with electrical tape:

...the resonator hose tearing. On other cars, I have plugged the snorkel side with a plastic bottle cap and band clamp of sufficient size; never noticed any issues with engine running, or excess noise. It's pretty extraneous on these cars; I think the last time I encountered a car where it was noticeable was a Lincoln LS (ew) with the Jag AJ-V6 (double ew). Made a snarling noise when the intake resonator broke off.

...nice and clear. Yes yes, I didn't remove the battery yet but you should have when I said so. Remove the air filter element.

...improperly-installed, or more commonly, cheaply made air filters will have the rubber pulling off the edge. Thin rubber curls under as the air filter is sucked at by the engine. Underneath it is why you need an air filter: can see three golden 10mm bolts that hold the bottom of the air cleaner to the chassis. It's shock-mounted: they have rubber grommets isolating it from the chassis to help deal with air intake vibrations. Mine was damaged in the accident, one of the mount holes broke:

Next up is the battery tray. Mine is jammed up due to the accident:

...but yours should pull right out as it just sits there, constrained by its locating nubs. Underneath you will find three bolts securing the cruise control actuator:

Undo them, along with the cruise control connector:

...move the CC actuator out of the way, it'll sit nicely where the air cleaner cap used to be.

Next you want to unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body. It's held by 2 12mm bolts that you can see under the throttle cable adjustment locknut:

And here I've pulled the bracket away from the throttle body:

And then farther away:

...note where the CC actuator is now. Nice and out-of-the-way. Next up you need to remove the front wheels. I've got some nice rims from the donor to transplant onto my recipient later:


short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Engine/trans removal. Continued.

PO had secured the wheels with all manner of lug nuts. Here's a couple:

...the acorn-style on the right is NOT suitable for alloy/aluminum/magnesium rims. It will damage them. The one on the left is the correct one to use, and is commonly supplied with Toyota rims of this era.

Behind each front wheel you should find the fender apron seals:

...remove the 2 10mm bolts on each one and get them out. On the driver side you can now see the transmission overdrive housing and the trans mount:

Next up, we're going to remove the radiator. First you want to undo the fan connectors. On the driver side, at the top of the fan shroud:

...the light gray connector is power for the left fan, and the dark gray, undone connector is for the thermo fan switch at the bottom of the radiator. The PO undid it because his fan switch failed; this causes the fans to run continuously. Here's the right fan connector on the passenger side, top of the fan shroud:

Two radiator hold downs held to the chassis by 12mm bolts, here's one:

...undo and remove them:

I actually like to just leave them flipped around like this:

Then move on to the expansion tank:

...I'm pointing to the single 10mm bolt that holds it to the chassis. Unbolt, then pull its peg out of the grommet below it, then unclamp and remove the overflow hose from the radiator neck to get the tank out of the way.

There's four 10mm bolts at the top of the radiator that hold the fan shrouds to the rad. Unbolt and the fans will pull away from the rad. I stuck them back in:

Now we remove the upper rad hose. This clamp has been damaged:

...that happens when the smaller tang curls inward if the pliers that you use to squeeze it are also being used to wiggle it off, and you use too much force. In any case, wiggle it off the radiator mouth, break the hose's seal, and pull the hose off:

That will allow you to remove the fans up and out of the car. Then we move to the bottom of the rad:

Undo the clamp and remove the lower rad hose, undo the connector to the thermo fan switch, and unclamp and remove the transmission cooler lines. You can see all but the other cooler line, which is here:

Both the rad trans cooler nipples and the lines coming from the trans will drip out fluid. If you have hose pinchers (what I'm using) or pliers available, you can prevent some mess from the lines:

The rad pulls out from the top. Here's the new clear space:

Alright, now we tackle what Toyota calls the "front exhaust pipe." First undo the two 12mm bolts holding the isolator mount to the back of the subframe (you can see the diff cooling fins, that'll tell you where this is):

Then the two 12mm bolts clamping the clamp at the engine-transmission joint:

...those two might be rusted beyond belief. I usually opt to replace the bracket and bolts, as this tends to happen:

The other one came out just fine, but has morphed into a Cheeto:

Next, move to the rear joint where the front exhaust pipe mates to the rear exhaust pipe/muffler pipe: you can see, it's rusted all to hell. I think they were supposed to be 14mm bolts and nuts, but the rust layer meant that a 15mm socket would fit. This is not a job for penetrating oil and muscle fatigue. This is a job for an angle grinder.

You cut off the nut and bolt at the flange:

Cut side exposes fresh, clean metal:

If you're a putz like me, you'll gouge the flange:

...but that's OK, the replacement hardware will have no problem holding it together as the OEM nuts are ovaloid-locking (I'll show you on assembly). If you decide to use Home Depot hardware, well, it may come loose at some point.

The other one, cut halfway through:

NOTE: that's for demonstration purposes only. You ideally shouldn't stop cutting with an angle grinder in the middle and then resume; if you can't handle the kickback or misalign in the cut groove, you may shatter the cutting disc and get seriously hurt. What I'm saying is, CUT IN ONE PASS. DO NOT STOP TO TAKE A BREAK.

Pull it free, and rear joint hangs loose:

...focus is bad in this pic. Try not to focus on the air-cooled Beetle.

Now for the front pipe-to-exhaust manifold joint. Here's a view from below:

...three 14mm split-lock nuts on studs. The proper way to deal with split-lock nuts is to apply even, slowly-increasing torque. AKA, use a breaker bar, or ratchet and cheater pipe, and do it by hand. Extensions to get to them:

View from the side. Need deep socket to clear the studs:

Now, as I make a habit of replacing exhaust hardware regardless of condition, I decided to do an experiment to show you why you should take them off as I mentioned above. The nuts will rust to the studs, so sometimes, the stud and nut come out together (they merged to form a bolt):

...if you look closely, you'll see the slot cut into the nut on the thinner-gauge portion. There's another 180 degrees off. At the manufacturing facility, these are then slightly crushed orthogonal to the slots, which makes them into teeth. These bite slightly into whatever stud, and thus lock the nut. However, this design defeats impact tools of sufficient power (and impact tools of insufficient power, well, wouldn't be able to take them off in the first place) because they twist, bite, and end up breaking the stud off.

So!...the experiment. I took an impact wrench to one of them just to show you what happens (worst case scenario. If the end of the teeth are rusted away you might get lucky, but why). Aren't I nice?

...the moral of the story is, don't use your impact wrench to take these off. Of course, this discussion was a bit academic, because what'll more likely cause stuff to shear off is rust. By the way, I'm in inland California and don't have to deal with much rust except in the exhaust system. I didn't use any penetrating oil throughout this, but you should use it as you see fit.

Back to work. Here's the front pipe removed:

The exhaust pipe clamp bracket at the engine-trans joint is what we'll tackle next. It's held by a 12mm ovaloid locknut:

Take that off, and you'll end up with this:

...notice the securing tang and the slot it goes into.

Next up, we're going to start disconnecting and unclipping the engine wiring harness. Let's start with the alternator. First, remove the protective cap from the B+ terminal. You want to twist it up sideways - they get brittle from ozone near the alternator and may crack. Also, the little fingers that hold it to the cable tend to break off very easily:

This is why you remove the battery before doing other stuff, and why the protective cap exists. If you accidentally short the B+ terminal to the chassis with, say, your ratchet: best case, you get scared by the flying sparks and jump back. Worst case, the ratchet melts and you die.

10mm nut to remove the terminal:

Push down on the rubber boot on the connector that goes into the back of the alternator to unclip it so you can remove it. Here's a closer picture where you can see where it says "PUSH":

Undo the wiring harness clamp at the bracket on the alternator:

...note where I'm prying with the screwdriver before I pull it up. You release that tang:

...and the harness is free:

Next up, starter motor. Unclip the harness connector:

You'll notice I took the boot off this terminal:

...that's not necessary. The cable goes between the solenoid and the starter, and for all intents and purposes we are keeping those together. However, there is a 12mm nut for the starter main power terminal on the other side:

It's covered by a boot, of course. Closer look:

...removing that brings the engine and trans one step closer to freedom.

Next, move to the passenger fender apron (which is what Toyota calls the strut tower) so we can release the DLC1 diagnostic connector:

Once you remove that, the harness is clamped to a bracket below it:

Back to the firewall. Near the throttle body, you'll find the MAP sensor: disconnect the connector:

On the driver side fender apron, you'll find two ground straps bolted to the chassis with a 10mm bolt. Undo:

Their passenger side counterparts are bolted below one of the power steering reservoir's mounting bolts. Also 10mm:

Here's the ring terminal, free and hangin' out under the dogbone strut:


Super Moderator
12,872 Posts
Stickied. I put this one in both the "Engine" & "Transmission" section, as I think it would be helpful to someone replacing either.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Engine/trans removal. Continued 2.

Alright, back to releasing clips and clamps. Main engine harness clips to the platform where the cruise control actuator was bolted:

...and it's off, my screwdriver is pointing to where it was:

Next, the harness is clamped to the fuel filter bracket. The fuel filter is located under the brake master cylinder:

...I gotta take the time to look closely at these clamps. How I'm showing is how I've always taken them off, but maybe that little slot lets us do this a bit more elegantly...pry:

Next, there's a ground strap bolted to the top of the transmission case with a 12mm bolt. Undo:

Then remove the brack booster vacuum line from the intake manifold:

...that pair of pliers is sufficient for this clamp, but is not ideal. Removed:

Then remove the MAP sensor line from the gas filter mounted to the back of the intake: can see my finger wrapped around it. Pulled off:

The "gas" in "gas filter" is gasoline. That filter prevents fumes from damaging the MAP sensor. BTW, the MAP sensor vacuum line has a length of plastic hose in the middle, and that or the rubber elbows may be brittle at this age. You might want to pull it off the MAP sensor side as well so it's not hanging, as that may be enough to break the elbow at the MAP. Or, you know, do it right and replace old hoes. [ame][/ame]

Now to get the heater hoses off. The party zone is the water outlet at the driver side front of the head. I'm pointing at the heater inlet hose's clamp:

First get that upper radiator hose off:

...OH SHI- old coolant residue and rust. This is why you don't run straight water in iron blocks.

Now let's talk about removing spring clamps from hoses properly. What I was pointing at above is the most hated type, the "three-finger" spring clamp, which I like to affectionately call the "shocker" (wahaha). First off:

...WRONG. Do not use lineman's pliers. It will slip off the farthest finger and twist the clamp so one finger does not release enough. Worst case, you will have to cut off the clamp after that. Next:

...better, but not optimal. Groove-joint pliers won't save you if one of the fingers has lost its travel as described above. But the advantage is that as they close, groove-joint pliers' halves get parallel:

And finally:

...awww yeah. 90-degree needle-nose pliers. No more cursing those crappy shockers. I took it off no problem, but the hose is in bad shape from age and oil exposure:

The heater outlet hose hooks to the pipe that bends around to the front of the engine and then the water pump:

...yikes. As you can see, the commonly-leaking distributor hole plug and valve cover gasket wreak havoc on this hose. Here it is, terribly swelled up with oil: can also see the advantage of using the 90-degree needle-noses.

Next is the fuel feed line. It's a 17mm banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter: can use an impact wrench to make it quick. For some reason I always do it by hand; note that if you choose that route, it may be on there pretty tight. If you see the fuel filter clamp visibly bending, bust out your impact wrench.

There are two sealing washers, one on each side of the fuel line: not reuse those. Next up, we're going to pull the wiring harness into the engine bay. The new party zone is behind the glove box. Remove the kick plate by pulling it off:

Here it is out of the car:

...notice how dusty it is. I'd like to point out that the same plate is far less dusty in 3ES's and gen3 cars that have been upgraded with a cabin air filter. In 3ES's, that little pop-out plate at the bottom right hides access to an airbag connector.

Now to remove the glovebox. Open it up, then you will see three JIS screws (looks like Philips, but for the uninitiated, get you some JIS drivers and go read up around here):

...only two visible in that image but you should be able to extrapolate and check your own vehicle. A closer view:

Next, pull up/back on the sill cover to expose the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the glovebox on that side:

...there's one on the other side as well. Unbolt both and you can pull the box out:

NOTE: An airbag connector is perched on top of the glovebox. I really hope you have your battery out by now...if not, well, you're stupid. Here's the connector: can also see the yellow compression clips that held the glovebox at the top. Pry the airbag connector out of its nest, but be careful as the wiring is inside a clamp:

You pull down on the white spring catch to release it, then pull the yellow halves apart:

...and of course, use a flathead screwdriver to release the wire clamp/holder so you can free the glovebox completely. I'm pointing at the clamp here:

Move it out of the way to access the PCM and junction block: the by, I'm an engineer by trade and more of a stickler than most (and we tend to be a stickler-y bunch). "ECU" is "Engine Control Unit," correctly used for a computer that controls engine function. "PCM" is "Powertrain Control Module," correctly used when it controls more aspects of the powertrain than just the engine, such as the transmission and differentials. Ours control the transmission as well, so there.

Go ahead and starve the PCM of connectors:

...see the black-wrapped main engine harness? Follow it to disconnect everything from the junction block as well. Here I'm holding one of the connections that I haven't split...I pulled on it and it came off the junction block:

Split it:


Now head to the engine bay and find where it grommets into the firewall on the passenger side:

Pry out the grommet:

And pull out the harness:

...this harness is pretty hardy and the connectors were chosen well, so they're not usually in danger of pulling out terminals (I'm looking at you, Ford). However, if you feel it catching as you pull it out, go back to your passenger footwell and untangle.

Next, we'll tackle the transmission control cable. It's on the front of the transmission:

...the cable is bolted to the shift position lever at the bottom, which you can see. That's a 12mm nut, undo it and push the bottom of the cable out of the shift linkage. Here:

The bracket that the transmission control cable sheath braces against is bolted to the transmission case with two 12mm bolts. They're behind the cable, you'll want an extension to get to them. Here they are:

Then the bracket and cable just pulls away from the transmission. You can see it here with the bolts back in their holes:

Next up is separating the A/C compressor from the engine. There're three long bolts - you can see two of them in this pic, and I'm pointing to one:

...the connector above the bolt is for the compressor clutch. You should separate that; the stub harness to the mag clutch stays on the compressor.

Here's a pic of the third bolt (on top), past the lower radiator hose:

...the wiring harness is clamped to the lower rad hose, as you can see. You should lift up on both "fingers" of the clamp to pull it apart:

Then you can extricate the wiring harness:

...that part of the wiring harness, along with the alternator wiring, is in an inopportune location next to the exhaust, so the sheath mostly bakes and gets brittle, then falls off.

Next up, we'll remove the lower radiator hose with the thermostat housing. To easily remove the thermostat housing, you want a 1/4" 10mm socket. A 3/8" 10mm socket is usually too big to fit (at least mine are). Lower nut:

And upper nut:

More of that rust:

Frito-Lay-branded thermostat:

...grab with a pair of pliers and pull out. Might get some coolant leaking out.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Engine/trans removal. Continued 3.

Ugh, that orange:

...the gasket was in decent shape, just had a bit of old coolant crust on it.

Next up, you want to relieve tension on the alternator-compressor belt so we can remove the compressor without complications. First, loosen the alternator pivot bolt, 14mm:

Then, loosen the tensioner lock bolt, 12mm:

...the long 12mm bolt going through the top of the tensioner block is what adjusts the tension. Turn it counterclockwise and push down to make sure its flange stays seated against the alternator bracket to keep the alternator moving downward. Shouldn't take much, but a power ratchet will speed this up. Then, finagle the belt out. Mine was in bad condition:

...back to the compressor. Here you can see I unbolted the top bolt:

Once you have all three out:

Then the alternator will just pull away from the engine: the hard lines to the compressor, they'll puncture the A/C condenser if you're not careful. Notice the foam insulator behind where the compressor was. The manual says to remove it, but I've never found it to be removable without ripping it to shreds. Leave it on the block, no harm, no foul.

Next up, we're going to pull the CV axles. On each side, there should be a cotter pin working with a lock ring. Their job is to keep the axle nut from backing out. Use needlenose pliers to bend the cotter pin straight, then pull it out:

The lock ring will come right off:

Next, use your impact wrench to zip off the axle nuts:

...stock axle nut is 30mm, but aftermarket axles may come with 32mm. Don't take the nut all the way off, bring it flush with the end of the axle:

Use a deadblow mallet to hit the end until the axle splines get pushed out of the hub. The more stuck it is, the bigger the mallet you'll need...I'm using a 48 oz unit here. If it's really stuck or rusted, you may need to get a heavier sledge (you can find 8, 9, and 10 lb sledges at your local hardware store). Here's the axle pushed most of the way out of the hub:

...remove the nut at this juncture.

Next up, we're going to unbolt the steering knuckle from the strut to give us the leeway to remove the axle from the hub. If your car is equipped with ABS, unclip the ABS wire routing clip from the strut:

Here's the clip, removed:

The ABS wire (if equipped) and the brake hose is bolted to a bracket welded to the strut with a 12mm bolt. Remove that to free them:

...if you don't do this, the brake hose will have tension on it when the steering knuckle comes loose from the strut.

Next, you want to bust the strut nuts with your impact wrench and 22mm socket. The top nut is easy to get with a deep 22mm socket: can see the 12mm bolt for the ABS wire and brake hose that I put back. To get the lower strut nut, you'll want a 3" extension:

...couple things. First of all, if you're not using impact sockets and extensions, then you should be using hand tools. Once your chrome socket shatters and you lose an eye from the shrapnel, well I guess there's nothing more to be said.

Also, the pics of the strut nuts above are from the passenger side. Note that the nuts are toward the front of the car - that's how you should put it back together on both sides so an impact wrench can get in there easily in the future. You break the nut loose, not the bolt.

You may have to pull and shake the knuckle to get it out, and rust won't make things easier, but you'll end up with:

Grab the axle at the ABS tone ring and pull it out:

...dayum, Frito-Lay why you don't pay me royalties. The driver side wasn't as bad:

Now, back to getting the passenger axle out. Due to how FWD transverse transmissions are mounted, the left and right axles aren't usually the same lengths. In most setups, the passenger axle either bolts to - or incorporates - an "intermediate shaft" to extend it far enough to get to the diff. Trivia tidbit: this difference is why FWD transverse cars experience torque steer. Our gen4's have a long passenger axle that incorporates the intermediate shaft that is supported in the middle by a bearing in a carrier. Let's get to it! Remove the 14mm lock bolt from the bearing carrier:

...that bolt is special. Check it out: has a little rubber nub that fits into that little hole. That nub often falls out or stays in the bearing carrier (the latter for me): NOT replace that bolt with a regular 14mm bolt if you lose the rubber or the bolt. Been there, done that, bent the bearing's outer race and the car developed a rhythmic vibration at highway speeds.

Next up, grab a pair of long-jawed pliers (needlenose will work, but duckbill like in my image is better) and squeeze, then pull out the snap ring that secures the bearing in the carrier:

Here's the snap ring loose:

...more of that rust. If your bearing's outer race is in excellent shape, it'll pull right out. However, more than likely it'll be rusted...I use an axle popper to get it out:'s a giant pickle fork. Goes between the tulip and the bearing carrier:

...then you hit the bottom of the handle with a mallet or sledge:

Here's the bearing coming out of the carrier - super rusty:

Aw man, it looks like it's wrapped in bacon:

...well, maybe not so much:

The inner splines of the passenger axle don't have a snap ring holding it in the diff:

This is an OEM GKN axle:

...unfortunately, the shock of the axle popper (or maybe it had just gone bad) ruined the bearing so the whole axle is toast.

The axle popper doesn't work on the driver side due to the diff side retainer:

Welp, get the awning off to get some clearance. Two 12mm bolts:

Here it is:

You want to get a long (3 ft) prybar wedged between the tulip and the side retainer, then hit the handle of the prybar with a deadblow mallet to pop the axle loose (the driver side's inside splines have a snap ring):

You want to use a deadblow mallet so that it doesn't bounce back and hit you in the face like a solid sledge or hammer will. Here's the axle popped out: may have an easier time if you have a friend who can pry with another bar 180 degrees off from you. I don't have any friends, so I went it alone. That'll do, pig. That'll do.

Here's the axle removed:

Now we move on to unbolting the power steering pump from the engine. First, unbolt and remove the adjustment lock bolt (12mm):

Only one more bolt, also 12mm. The pivot bolt, which is hiding in the dark in this image:'s above the welded nut and below the P/S belt in the image. In reality it's above the P/S belt:

Once you have that loose, you should be able to swing the P/S pump toward the block and remove the P/S belt. Mine was toast:

...yeah, OEM Bando belt:

Now here's where things get cool. Check this pic out of the P/S pump after separation from the engine:

...see how it has a welded nut/threaded hose at the back of the pump, but the front is slotted? That's because the pivot bolt is too long to remove as it hits the fender apron. So once you unthread it, you can pull it partially out (all the way out of the welded nut, of course) and the slotted pivot point will allow you to drop the P/S pump away from the engine. Somebody pondered ease of service! On the opposite end is this leaky oil pan I'm doing on a GMC Jimmy (blech). Step 1: Remove engine. Fuuuuuuuuu-

Now we move to the other side of the car and get at the transmission mount. On automatic cars, it's held to the trans case by four 14mm bolts. Two here:

...and two on the other side, which will free the transmission from the subframe:

Then we move on to the rear mount, which is held by three 14mm nuts, which you will need a deep socket to access. Check this pic:

...I'm pointing at one of the two holes which allow access to two of the nuts. These should have rubber/plastic plugs but mine are long gone.

And in this image, I'm pointing at the exposed stud and nut (that's #3). Here's that stud with the nut removed:


short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Engine/trans removal. Continued 4.

OK, front mount time. It's held by three 14mm bolts. You can see one of 'em in this pic:

...the one at the front (you see a welded nut in the previous pic) comes up through the bottom:

...undo all three (I find a few long extensions and a breaker bar, or ratchet+cheater pipe, work well for the two top ones) and the only mount securing the powertrain to the chassis is the dogbone strut.

...of course, we got a few other things to take care of. There's a releasable tie that holds some harness near the battery tray to the two ground straps on the driver side:

Here's a side view: lift up on that little tab, and you can pull it apart, allowing you to separate the ground straps from the harness; the ground straps are coming away with the engine and trans.

Next, you want to remove the transmission kickdown cable (pointing at it) from the throttle cable bracket:

...should be obvious, trans kickdown cable is coming away with engine and trans, throttle cable comes from the firewall so stays with car (along with bracket). Here it is removed:

...the nut on the left is for adjusting the kickdown, so loosen the nut on the right to let you remove the cable.

Now, a caveat. Some of you observant readers may have noticed that I unbolted the bearing carrier bracket in my pics above. I did this because I wanted to try hitting it with a hammer to get it free from the axle bearing; not a good idea. I eventually got it loose with the axle popper. If you remove the bearing carrier bracket, the engine will fall backwards, and the front mount bolts may get caught (well, the last one you remove) as it pulls up and back on the front mount:

...don't do what I did and you won't have this problem. Easily remedied by lifting up on the engine to relieve tension on that bolt.

OK! We're finally here. Time to lift up on the engine. Attach your engine crane to the two lifting hooks on the engine:

...I'm just using good chain from OSH. Ideally you should use a load leveler, but I didn't buy one until after I pulled this engine (need it for the Jimmy. That truck is a major PitA). Chain will work just fine as long as you attach it properly so that it doesn't slip off the hooks. Here's the Left Hook:

...R.I.P Joe Frazier. The right hook:

Once you have the chain on the hooks, lightly tension the chain by lifting up on the hoist to check that they are secure:

Do NOT lift up on the hoist enough to lift the powertrain yet unless you want to risk damaging your dogbone strut! The dogbone strut and its stub bracket are held to the chassis and engine by three 14mm bolts. I'm pointing to two of them here, and the other one is farther right:

If your dogbone looks like mine, plan on replacing it:

...goes without sayin', but my car will be Frankenstein'd together since I'm doing a swap. I have good parts on either car to replace bad ones.

Now you can start lifting the engine and trans. I'll try and point out some gotchas so you or a friend can push or pull the powertrain out of the way as needed.

First, watch that the O/D case doesn't snag on the harness mount bracket here:

Next, this is why the FSM says to remove the hood:

...but I did that for demonstration purposes only (no harm to the hood insulator). If you are careful in pulling the hoist away from the car every few pumps, you will clear the hood no problem. However, if you want a bit of extra clearance unbolt the hood struts at the chassis:

Watch that the front mount doesn't hit the A/C condenser on its not-so-meteoric rise to the top:

...that doesn't make sense, does it? Aren't meteors earthbound?

Grab the fuel rail feed line and lay it on top of the transmission case, so that it doesn't hang free and drip gas all over (especially if you have asphalt). In fact, might want to wrap it up so the debris that collected on top of the trans doesn't get into the line. I didn't, though:


WAHAHAHA: more glamour shot:

Empty nest: an see how the rear mount and mount bracket remain behind since I unbolted them from the engine. Yours should have come out with the assembly.

Some weirdness in the donor car's engine bay:

...that's the P/S idle up valve, responsible for triggering the PCM to raise idle when you are at steering lock to deal with the increased load. The harness-side connector was just on top, not connected to the harness. Oddly enough, I have no broken wires at the engine harness...and I think I remember having one coming off the harness on my recipient car when I did a swap the first time around. Other than that, steering rack and associated components seem to be in great shape.

...and that's the end of this chapter. Next up, we'll separate the engine and trans.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Engine/trans separation.

Alright, now we're going to separate the engine and trans.

Check this 10mm bolt:

...that holds the transmission dipstick tube to the case. Remove it.

Next, remove the three connectors on the front of the transmission:

...the large one is for the neutral safety switch, and the other two are solenoids. Removed:

Pull them away and twist the dipstick tube away from the case to break the seal:

The dipstick tube will just pull out:

...I didn't do this, but you might want to consider cleaning up the surrounding area with carb cleaner (the grime is a bit much for brake parts cleaner, at least CA-spec brake cleaner that's just acetone with a bit of methanol) so that dirt doesn't get in through the hole when you remove the dipstick.

Dipstick is sealed by an o-ring:

Next up is starter removal. Two 14mm bolts and it comes out. Here's one:

The other bolt holds a combination bracket which should still have the engine harness clipped to it. Remove that:

Then go ahead and unbolt:

Then the starter'll pull right out:

Here's the hole. I put the bracket back on one of the bolts:

Undo the upstream oxygen sensor connector:

...alrighty, I used to be an emissions control engineer, so I'll take this opportunity to clear up some basic stuff about oxygen sensors. Some seem to think that an oxygen sensor is different from an air-fuel ratio sensor. Nope, same type of thing. The difference is the resolution that they can output. The whole purpose of closed-loop fuel control is to maintain - under most conditions - a stoichiometric, or perfect-as-per-the-chemical-reaction-equation, ratio. For the main component of gasoline (octane) reacting with oxygen, that comes to 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline (by mass). A rich mixture means there's not enough air to burn all the fuel (or too much fuel), a.k.a. ratio less than 14.7:1. A lean mixture is the opposite, too much air or too little fuel (greater than 14.7:1). What most people call an oxygen sensor (also known as a narrowband sensor) basically outputs two, maybe three states (three is rare): it's calibrated so that the ECU can interpret its output as "rich" or "lean." If it returns rich, the ECU takes away fuel to get to stoich; and if it reads lean, the ECU adds fuel to get to stoich. As you can imagine, this is rather crude - the ECU overshoots, then the ratio bounces back the other way and so the fuel mixture is continually updated. An air-fuel ratio sensor (also known as a wideband sensor or sometimes a lambda sensor depending on the implementation) has much higher granularity, i.e., it can tell the ECU how far from stoich the fuel mixture is. As you can imagine, this allows much better control of the fuel mixture, leading to better emissions, fuel economy, etc. The guy breathing the air next to your car equipped with modern emissions thanks you, the other guy trying to get GM to sell unfettered 454s does not (not sure if that guy misses the haze hanging over 70's LA).

Anyway. We're removing the upstream oxygen sensor (narrowband, in this case since it's a federal-spec engine) because they have a ceramic shell and are fragile, and we'll be banging around. You'll need an oxygen sensor socket:'s a 7/8" socket with a slot cut in it to accommodate the sensor wiring:

...crank on it and the sensor should unscrew. Be careful, sensors can gall to the exhaust piping. I've never encountered that on Cali Toyotas, but I did once swap out the catifold on an IS300 from Ohio that had that issue. Good thing the old catifold was trash.

I'm working on this with the engine still suspended by the hoist, so I'm using the exhaust manifold as an impromptu tool shelf:

...once you've established your own tool shelf, we can move on to removing the exhaust manifold. First is what Toyota calls the No. 1 exhaust manifold stay:

...two 14mm bolts. Conquer that rust, dog. Conquer it! Bolts back in:

Next up is the No. 2 exhaust manifold stay. Here it is, wedged between the manifold and front motor mount:

...I'm pointing to the lower nut, and you can see the upper nut (both 14mm). Now if your vehicle is TMC made (Toyota Motor Corporation, Japan-made, J-VIN), you will have two nuts (wahaha). If your vehicle is TMMK made (Toyota Motor Manufacturing Kentucky, US-made, 4-VIN), the lower fastener will be a bolt. That is due to Toyota using locally-sourced fasteners. It all became a jumble in later years, which you'll find if you spend hours poring over parts diagrams like me. Both my 5S cars are J-VIN, my 1MZ car is 4-VIN.

The lower nut was galled to the stud so it pulled it out. Here's the stay and fasteners:

Now you remove the exhaust manifold heatshield. Guess the tools gotta find another home. Five 12mm bolts: I'm showing my electric ratchet here but that's for demonstration purposes only. These fasteners will be heavily rusted and you really want to use penetrating oil and apply slowly-increasing, heavy torque with a hand ratchet. The electric ratchet is not an impact tool and IME it doesn't have enough torque for these (but that unit is rated at a whopping 55 ft-lbs). Plus, using it over and over without breaking the fastener loose or off damages the crankshaft (the crankshaft on the ratchet, not the car).


With the heatshield:

Now, the exhaust manifold is secured to the head by six 14mm nuts, but one of them is covered by the alternator so we'll work to swing it up. First, remove the alternator tensioner lock bolt (12mm):

...and make sure the pivot bolt (14mm) is loose. You don't need to remove the alternator if you don't want to (I didn't):

Swing the alternator up, and here's my impact wrench pointing to the hidden nut:

Take off the six 14mm nuts. Here's a pic of the two beneath the mating line:

Again, you might have some galling, so the studs might come out with the nuts:

Exhaust manifold out:

Here's a pic of the front of the block after manifold removal. The gasket is still on there, and I'm pointing to one of the four 14mm bolts that holds the front motor mount bracket to the block. You want to remove the mount bracket (with the mount still attached) at this point:

Here's the bolts back in:

...godDAMN that block is grimy. Pretty common. And to the right of the middle you can see the 10mm front block drain plug. Feel free to remove it and see if anything dribbles out.

No pics of this, but the next step would be to remove the rear engine mount bracket with the rear engine mount. Four 14mm bolts.

Then go ahead and unclip all the connectors by the top left of the valve cover/water outlet:

...the one I'm fondling (wahaha) is the oil pressure switch connector, the one right above it (that you removed before) is the oxygen sensor, and the one above that is the filtering capacitor. Above the orange Cheeto powder in the water outlet you can see the green two-pin connector for the ECT sensor, and just barely the light gray one-pin connector for the gauge sender. Remove all of them to free the harness. Also unclip the oxygen sensor harness-side connector from the bracket like so:

Remove the ECT sensor from the water outlet. I don't remember if it's 19mm, 21mm, or 22mm but I used an adjustable wrench:

Frito-Lay. Come on, son, I need that endorsement to fund my write-ups:

Gauge sender needs a 12mm deep socket:

The next step is not necessary for separating the engine and trans, but since I'm refreshing the engine I'll toss it in here. We're going to remove that pesky RH engine mount bracket that sit over the upper timing cover and is the most annoying part of a TB job. Those two pesky lower bolts are easy as pie to zip out with your impact wrench:

...and the upper one was always easy. All three are 14mm. Bracket out:

Ah, the timing side of the engine:

Next up is what Toyota calls the LH stiffener plate. It's at the front, bottom, left of the block, with two 14mm bolts holding it to the transmission case:

...the other "bolt" (actually a galled nut and stud) is from the No. 2 exhaust manifold stay, if you remember. Remove the plate:

Underneath it is the No. 2 rear end plate:

...I'm pulling it slightly away from the transmission case, it's just thin-gauge sheet metal. Helps keep crud out of the torque converter housing.

Next, unbolt the intake manifold stay. Two 14mm bolts:

...about orientation. See that white dot? I didn't put that there, but it's what I'll be going off to remount the bar. If you don't have that, the top flange has a rounded crescent edge (like your nails):

...the bottom flange has a notch, like your dog's lazy ear (I know this pic is misleading because I have the top mounting boss behind the flange, but this goes at the BOTTOM):

Once the intake manifold stay is gone, you have the RH stiffener plate to remove. Four 14mm bolts: it is by itself, with the bolts at their proper locations: very careful about these bolts on reassembly. If you substitute a slightly longer bolt in place of either of the two you see not in the plate's holes, you risk cracking the block/cutting into an oil jacket. Do some searching around gen3/4 and you'll see how I fixed my uncle's '95 when I discovered that the previous mechanic had done this.

Next, release the connector at the output speed sensor on top of the transmission case:

...the sensor is sealed with an o-ring. While we will be replacing that, transmission fluid is not usually the cause of the nasty you see; that's oil dripping down from the distributor hole plug and valve cover gasket. Here's a pic from the back giving you another reference as to its location (bottom left), along with a view of how oil from a leaking VC gasket coats the back of the block and creeps up the intake:


short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Engine/trans separation. Continued.

Next up, we need to expose the flexplate to unbolt the torque converter. To do that, we need to remove the exhaust pipe bracket and the "No. 2 rear end plate." The plate is held by two 10mm bolts. Here's one:

...and here's t'other (always wanted to type that): you can see, to get the second one out, we need to remove the exhaust pipe bracket. You can see one of the 12mm bolts that hold it (and just barely see the other one), here's another view of that one getting unbolted:

...and the other one:

Bracket out:

...then make sure you unbolt the 10mm bolt from before. The foam oil pan insulator will be grimy, sticking, and disintegrating, so you pry with a large screwdriver to get the plate out:

...the insulator mounts to the plate on two pegs, so this is the best way to get it out without ripping off bits of foam. No. 2 rear end plate out:

...and that exposes our flexplate-to-torque converter bolts:

...they are all 12mm (there're six). You want to have a friend (or you yourself, girly-man) counterhold the crank bolt so you can break them loose; they have blue Loctite on them and that lets the crank turn as you try, otherwise.

There're two kinds of bolts. Five of these:

...and one of these:

...these will come into play on reassembly. For now, notice the tapered shoulder on the singlet bolt, vs the "regular" other five.

We're almost there. Just a few more bolts holding the engine and trans together, and the first one to come out will be the 14mm above the starter housing:

...we take this one out first because the rest are beefy 17mm bolts, so we won't chance this one having to hold together the engine and trans. It only holds the No. 1 rear end plate to the trans case, here's another view:

For the rest of the bolts, we're going to go from bottom to top. BUT FIRST: go get your dolly and a piece of plywood on top. Drop your engine crane so the trans is an inch or less above that plywood. Don't drop it completely on the plywood (take tension off the lifting chain), but you can set it down a bit if you want.

After that, the first 17mm bolt is below the starter housing:

...and then two at the top of the transmission case, one of which secures a ground strap:

OK! Torque converter free, case bolts gone...the only thing holding them together is a couple dowels.

Start prying. I started at the front of the assembly:

Another view, with some separation so you can see the dowel:

Pry at the front, pry at the back, Fanny's your aunt, Bob's your uncle, voilà:

Front view:

...looks compact (and TBH it is, compared to other transmissions...take a look at a Ford AX4N sometime), but that sucker is heavy. Plus, it still has several quarts of fluid in the torque converter. Team lift if you need to position the center of gravity. Another thing to look at (wahaha) is the little wiener in the middle of the torque converter. It's called the pilot, and sometimes gets stuck in the crankshaft end. If that's what's keeping you from separating the assembly, set down the transmission (take some load off the lifting chain, but don't drop the engine, dummy), and have a friend help you pry on both sides with large prybars.


...those eight bolts are 17mm, and have the equivalent of red Loctite on them. Best to use an impact wrench. Seven removed:

Here's the last one, holding in the "rear spacer." Notice that it's cupped outward:

Once you remove that last bolt, the rear spacer and flexplate will come right off. There's another spacer behind the flexplate, called the "front spacer." NOTE: That's toward the official front of the engine, AKA the timing belt side. I've ben calling the official LEFT side of the engine block the front, because this engine is mounted transversely. Here's that front spacer:

...notice the chamfering to determine the orientation. That's the rear main seal in its retainer behind it.

There's one more 10mm bolt holding the No. 1 rear end plate to the engine. Zip it off to remove the plate:

...which leaves us with this view:

...and that completes disassembly of the assembly :). Next up, we'll begin refreshing the engine.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Happy New Year. Shelving this project until I have use of my hoist again so will be a few weeks.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Engine refresh.

Awwwright, now we can get to freshening up this tired ol', 170k-mile engine. First, we gotta strip down the engine. Note that the engine's working fine so I'm not touching the internals (save for the valve stem seals, and adjusting valve clearance) - we'll strip away the outside. I'll try and maintain some semblance of order but I usually take stuff apart all over the place, so no guarantees.

There's two [presumably] oily-as-hell ground straps at the back right of the intake:

...two 10mm bolts. Remove those; we're going to extricate the harness from the engine.

Below the intake manifold is the EGR VSV and knock sensor:

...go ahead and remove the two connectors and two vacuum hoses. If you can't remember which goes where you might want to label the hoses. That'll let the harness portion below the intake just hang:

Next, unclip the throttle position sensor connector:

...and the idle air control valve connector:

Now to switch tack and remove the throttle body. Remove the two vacuum lines I'm touching: prevent breakage (unless you're replacing them), you might want to lightly grab them and twist with a pair of pliers to break the seal. Those two lead to the EGR vacuum modulator:

...notice that the ports are marked P, R, and Q. Q goes to the EGR VSV, and P and R come from the throttle body. Take a look at the picture before, and look closely to see that the throttle body is marked. That will make it easy to hook up later. BTW the E line goes to the EVAP VSV near the intake tract. E for EVAP! Here's another pic that shows the P marking on the TB:

Three 12mm bolts (one on top and two below):

...throttle body will come right off:

...whoa, that's carbon-y. Metal gasket has some carbon deposits where it meets the air bypass as well:

..the carbon comes from running rich on startup, and PCV that hasn't been serviced regularly doesn't help. Now you know why the IAC needs cleaning every once in a while.

To get the throttle body free, we still need to release the IAC coolant hoses. Bust out those trusty 90-degree needlenose pliers, and pull back the clamp holding the inlet hose to the water outlet:

Then, release the return hose from the coolant return tube:

...separating those two hoses from the engine will free the throttle body. Man, the leaking oil does a number on these hoses:

...looks like some sort of parasitic worm, ugh. Next, separate the spark plug wires from the ignition coils:

...yup, pull the tang toward you and they'll pull right up. Note that the ignition coil harness connectors are removed.

Since we're right there, go ahead and remove the PCV breather hose from the valve cover. It'll probably be baked on there, so you might have to chip it away with a screwdriver:

...change it on time and you won't have to worry. "On time" means once a year.

Next, unclip the harness holder here:

...which allows the harness to hang free on that side of the intake.

Now to remove the ignition coil bracket (and the coils along with it). Here it is:

...I'm pointing to the lone 12mm bolt. Below and to the left of it are the 12mm nuts, and the bolt above and to the right is 14mm. Remove them all:

Bracket removed, with hardware:

Behind the bracket: you can see why all those coolant hoses get ruined and the coil bracket is so grimy. Leakage from the valve cover gasket and from the distributor hose plug.

Now, back to extracting the harness. The harness is clipped to two brackets inside the curve of the intake manifold. Here's the black one on the driver side:

...and here's the baby blue one on the passenger side:

We still have to remove the fuel injector connectors, but we're getting to that; intake has to come out first.

Next up is the PCV valve-to-intake hose. Yup, it'll be brittle and hard (in all probability), so release the clamp and try to separate it:

...if you can't separate it because the hose won't bend, don't worry about it. It'll come off later.

Unclip the harness holder here on the intake (driver side): it is pulled off:

...notice the other harness holder for the bundle of vacuum hoses. Remove that as well.

Now, grab an adjustable wrench or the right side crowfoot wrench and release the EGR tube nut from the adapter on the head: might need penetrating oil. For me, it's good to live in inland Cali.

Now we're ready to unbolt the intake. There are six 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts. Here's the right side, you can see two bolts and a nut:

Two bolts are in the middle:

Before we continue, check out the power steering pump bracket below the intake:

...the long bolt screws into the P/S pump, so there's nothing holding it in. Might want to remove it for safe-keeping. OK, back to the intake, here it is, falling away from the engine:, these engines love to leak oil. Do your valve cover gasket on time! Notice that the harness passes through the opening down to get to the VSV, knock sensor, and intake ground points. Make sure to pull it through before removing the intake.

Remember I said the PCV valve would come off later? Well, if it's old enough the plastic will be brittle, more so than the hose:

Blurry close-up of broken valve:

...and the hose side:

Pardon the blurry pics, it's hard to keep oil off the smartphone lens.

Awww yeah, scorpion intake:

...make sure you remove and toss the old intake manifold gasket. The engine's getting more and more naked as we go along: can unclip the fuel injector connectors, which will let the harness hang (still a couple connectors to go). Fuel injector connectors removed:

Closer pic:

...unbolt the two 12mm bolts to get the fuel rail out. Don't lose the plastic spacers! Rail out:

...sometimes, an injector may stay with the head. No big deal, just make sure all the old seals are out of the head and rail.

This car has federal injectors (green connector, steel body):

...that's not the Toyota part number on it, rather that's Denso's part number. See my notes in the parts section.

Remove the camshaft position sensor (CMP) connector and the bulk of the harness will hang free: it up on the engine so it doesn't put strain on the still-connected parts of the harness. Follow the harness to where it connects to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) stub harness:

...unclip that, and release where it clips to the alternator bracket.. Now, all that remains is where the harness is held to the upper timing cover. It's held to the timing cover by the timing cover bolts:

Remove the bolts holding it, and the harness comes out:

Now to remove the valve cover. First, get the spark plug wires out:

...they pull straight up and out, I've never had to use spark plug boot pliers. Couple caveats, though. First, the wire clips have "fir-tree" ends where they go into the valve cover. These get brittle and break off in there:

...if they're not broken, be careful removing the wires. You'll have to remove the wires from the holders to get slack to pull the boots out of the plug wells.

Second caveat is that the #1 spark plug wire will have interference with the oil filler cap:

...well, what are you waiting for, remove the oil filler cap! After removing the plug wires, you'll see the valve cover nuts, and can work on prying out the PCV valve:

...again, this theme: you MUST service PCV on time, or you'll deal with these issues. PCV valve came out, but grommet broke off inside the valve cover:

...we'll handle getting the bits out once the valve cover is off. So the next step is to remove the 30mm valve cover nuts:


short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Engine refresh. Continued.

Once the valve cover nuts are removed, you can pry out the spark plug tube seals: you can see, mine are super old, they were cracking on removal and have chips missing. Now we can lever the valve cover loose: careful not to mar the valve cover or head surface. The tab jutting out is OK to gouge as it's outside the gasket sealing surface. In fact, move your screwdriver beyond the tab and under the little ledge beyond the VC gasket that you can see. Where I'm prying in the pic is liable to damage the VC surface. Pry at other ledges that Toyota provided around the edge and the VC will come right off (remove and throw away the gasket).

Now you can look inside the VC and find the broken PCV grommet bits, which will be hanging out on top of the baffle plate inside the VC:

You need some long needlenose pliers, and you'll get the bits out. Shake the VC to make them rattle so you can check if they are there. Here are mine:

Under the VC:

Now we're going to switch to removing the timing components. First is the upper timing cover; you should have already removed the three long bolts from it when removing the harness. Just one short bolt at the bottom left:

Now people always seem to be having trouble putting back timing cover bolts, poking them through cardboard, yada yada yada. It's pretty easy: each cover is held on by four bolts. The top cover uses one short bolt (and thus three long), and the bottom uses one long bolt (and thus three short). If you remember that, and where the singlet bolt goes on each cover, then maybe you can make a career out of installing 5S timing covers (doubtful). Here's a diagram:

Underneath the top cover are some timing components: can see that this timing belt is pretty worn. Now we move to the lower timing cover, and to do that we need to remove the harmonic balancer:'ll need an HB puller. Most pullers don't come with the right bolts for our balancers; I sourced mine from a local metric fastener company. M6x1.0 (like the rest of the 10mm bolts across the car), 100mm length. I had 75mm before, but 100mm length allows me to use them to install Honda balancer belts properly.

You want to screw the bolts in as far as you can go, but once you feel them bottoming out against the timing cover don't keep going or you'll poke holes in the TC. Crank on the jackscrew:

Rust on the crankshaft will fight you, keep an eye on the bolts to make sure they're not bending. If the harmonic balancer is turning, switch to your impact wrench. You'll end up with this:

Now you want to unclip the CKP stub harness from the timing cover:

...then pull it out of the holder (I'm pointing to the clip point you just dealt with, the holder is above it):

Remove the three short bolts, and here's the long bolt for the lower timing cover:

Cover comes out, there's a lot of timing belt dust (and dust from ingress) inside:

One of the TC bushings was rusted to the boss on the oil pump, so it pulled out of the TC:

The timing belt and friends:

...don't you wish you had this kind of clearance when you did the belt last, son? Notice that the timing belt guide cup/washer is hanging on the crank snout, remove that and put it aside for later.

Loosen the 14mm tensioner pulley bolt so we can take slack off the belt:

You can pry the pulley:

...and then retighten the tensioner in the slack position, or you can just use your other hand to pull the belt off like I did. Belt off:

It's worn:

Now to remove the tensioner pulley. The tensioner spring hangs onto this little rusty peg here:

...unhook it from the peg, and remove the bolt holding the pulley. It's ready to come off:

...I'm pointing to the 14mm bolt holding the idler pulley on. Remove that, and the idler pulley comes right out:

...don't mix up the bolts for the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley, they are different lengths. Oh yeah, the tensioner pulley:

Next, slap a 14mm socket on your impact wrench and get the camshaft pulley off:

Behind the pulley:

...yup, that seal needs changing:

Now there's three 10mm bolts holding the rear timing cover on:

However, we have to remove the CMP first. The CMP is held to its bracket by the slotted 10mm screw you see here:

...don't remove that. Here's another pic of how the CMP sits:

...and from the front, where you can see the 10mm bolt that holds the CMP bracket (at the bottom of the bracket):

Remove that bolt, and the bracket and CMP come right out:

Now you can remove those three 10mm bolts to get the rear timing cover off:

Next up, we're going to tackle the cooling system implements. Here's the short hose that connects the water putlet to the bypass tube:

Unclamp with needlenose pliers:

Bust out your radiator hose pick to break the grip:

Water outlet is held on by two 12mm nuts:

Break 'em loose and remove:

...I decided to separate the hose from the bypass tube and leave it on the water outlet. The water outlet does not usually need removing, so the nuts may be seized to the studs, like we encountered with the exhaust:

Water outlet removed:

Metal crush gasket behind:

Time to unbolt the coolant return tube/bypass tube assembly from the head. There's a 12mm bolt here (pointing to it):

...and one here:

...that frees the assembly from the head. There's still two 10mm nuts clamping it to the water pump:

...I chose to remove the water pump and tube assembly together, and separate them after. Before the water pump, though, we'll remove the oil pan, oil pump, and rear main seal retainer. Start by removing the crankshaft sprocket. Bust out that HB puller again, and the same bolts:

It'll pull away:

Now we'll unclip the CKP stub harness from the alternator adjustment bracket:

The alternator adjustment bracket is held to the water pump by a 14mm bolt, remove that (it will hold up water pump removal later):

...the alternator bracket can then be removed.

short-throw dipstick
5,969 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Engine refresh. Continued 2.

OK, oil pan time. There're 17 10mm bolts and two nuts (10mm as well) around the flange:

Remove them all (only 16 bolts in pic, I still had one in the pan):

I stuck them all in a can of Chem-Dip to clean them:

...there's also several other fasteners from this car and a GMC Jimmy I'm doing the same thing on.

Now the only thing holding the oil pan to the block is the RTV. I use a screwdriver, but I have a practiced hand; I strongly recommend something wider like a putty knife to break the seal without bending the oil pan flange:

GodDAMN they used too much RTV! One side free:

Still gotta pull it free on the other side:

...but it'll expose the balance shaft assembly once removed:

...and here's the oil pan:

Oil pump pickup screen has some boogers of sludge:

Next, unbolt the CKP sensor (10mm):'ll just pull away: stash it somewhere to be cleaned later. Next up, the oil pickup tube is held to the oil pump by two 10mm nuts:

...and to the balance shaft carrier by a 10mm bolt:

Once all three fasteners are removed, the pickup tube pulls free and you have the bare port:

...and here's the mating end on the pickup tube, with the metal crush gasket:

Now we get the oil pump off. You remove all the bolts except two:

...I'm pointing at one, and keep following my finger for the other one. Here you can see I've removed all the bolts holding the oil pump to the block:

...those two bolts hold the pump body onto the housing, and we'll take it apart soon. Now, about all these bolts: the two that hold the body onto the housing are flange bolts, and a golden color. The housing-to-block bolts all have captive washers, and are a silvery color:

...all the housing-to-block bolts are the same size except the two at the bottom right and bottom left; those are longer. Pictured are the corner bolts vs the regular ones. The body-to-housing bolts are shorter than the other bolts, which will be useful to know on reassembly.

Now we can release the oil pump from the block. Get a prybar between the pump housing and main bearing cap, then pry:

Here's the pump removed:

The OEM gasket behind it is metal crush. These don't normally leak until well beyond 200k:

Let's get to disassembling the pump. The sprocket nut is 12mm, this is how I usually remove it:

...make sure your groove-joint pliers/Channel-locks are gripping well as slippage will damage the sprocket teeth. 12mm socket on an impact driver zips it right off. Note that I'm using a regular chrome socket with my low-torque impact driver (max torque 1600 in-lbs); I would be using the black impact socket if I was using the impact wrench (max torque 1100 ft-lbs). Don't do what I did out of convenience; you should make a habit of using impact-rated sockets; chrome sockets will first start flaking off bits of chrome, then shatter with impact use. This is a good time to remind you that you are responsible for your actions and may not hold me or TN responsible for your injuries, mishaps, or general shenanigans.

Sprocket off:

Next up, unbolt the pump body from the housing (those two 10mm flange bolts). Flip the pump over and tap it out here:

...and here:

Pump body off:

...note the spaghetti seal in its groove; mine was hard and breaking off in pieces. Toss it out. Also notice that I'm pointing to the pump drive rotor's little triangle mark. That mark (and the same one on the driven rotor) should face outward on reassembly.

Now to remove the oil pump shaft seal. I usually tap these out from behind like so:

...but that doesn't work so well here. Luckily, it's easy to pry it out from the front:

Once you get that out, you'll notice the shaft lube supply hole:

...that's why you don't bottom out the shaft seal. If you do, you will starve the pump shaft of oil. Also, the localized overpressure will cause the shaft seal to leak badly.

Next up, remove the crankshaft seal in the pump housing. Tap it out from behind with your favorite flathead screwdriver and a hammer/mallet:

Crank seal out:

...I'm pointing to the errant timing cover bushing...will try to extract that later, once the pump is clean and mounted to the engine.

Now to remove the rear main seal. Six 10mm bolts:

Pry gently between the seal retainer and the block here:

Retainer and seal out. Note the sludge: