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short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Engine refresh. Continued 7.

Here's the water outlet on the studs:

...just torque down the 12mm nuts and it'll be set. Torque is 11 ft-lbs.

OK, something else small before we get to the timing belt: the alternator adjustment bracket. It bolts to the water pump with a 12mm bolt:

...finger tight that bolt so that the bracket can move, but isn't flopping around. Bring it up to where the alternator is like so:

...then, install the alternator lock bolt through the boss so that it protrudes into the slot on the bracket. Move it all the way up, and all the way down; moving the alternator through its whole range of motion will position the bracket properly. Once you've done that, tighten down the bracket: 16 ft-lbs.

OK, timing belt time. Install the No. 2 idler pulley here with the 14mm bolt:

...if you've mixed up the bolts, this one is 35mm long. Torque is 31 ft-lbs.

Next, align the new tensioner pulley with the pivot pin:

...push it on, then install the spring and the 14mm retaining bolt:

Now this has been mentioned many times across these forums, but there are two different springs, if you have a gen3 5S. Basically, the older, 10-coil spring has been superseded by a 13-coil spring. This pic will explain everything:

...I'm reusing the spring that this engine had on it, but some prefer to get a new spring each time. Whatever.

Before you tighten the retaining bolt on the tensioner, you want to move it so that it will allow the timing belt the most slack, to make your life easy when lining up timing marks. Stretch it out, then snug down the bolt:

Next, install the 19mm crank pulley bolt and turn the crank sprocket to align the marks. This is often quite difficult to figure out as the notch on the pulley is more of a light dimple, so I outlined it for you:

...the red is the party zone, and you can see the raised mark on the oil pump housing. The blue is the notch on the crank pulley. Very easy to miss, eh? Also notice the position of the slot on the front of the sprocket that mates with the securing key on the crank. That should get you situated.

Note: As you're aware, I've installed spark plugs already. I have a practiced hand and the extra resistance doesn't matter to me, but first-timers may want to keep their plugs out to turn the crank easier and prevent it from "jumping" over TDC.

OK, time to set the cam position. Hard to see in this image, but I'm pointing to the notch that is in line with the engine's 12 o'clock:

...note that in your engine bay, the engine sits tilted. 12 o'clock of the ENGINE, not the engine bay. The other caveat is that there is a dot at approximately 10 o'clock; THIS IS THE WRONG MARK. Here's a pic after I lined up the cam sprocket with the notch. It also shows the dot off to the left:

...I strongly, strongly recommend that you use a scribe or some other long, thin, rigid tool (wahaha) to poke through the cam sprocket hole and make sure it is lined up with the notch.

Now to install the timing belt. First things first, make sure the pulleys and sprockets are clean and free of dirt, oil, grease, and coolant. We're going to have a very easy time of it with the engine out of the car. The order listed in the FSM is crank sprocket, oil pump sprocket, tensioner pulley, water pump sprocket, and finally the idler pulley. This leaves you with a loop at the top that can then be put onto the cam sprocket.

Since we have the engine out, we can do it in one go (can do it in one go with the engine in the car as well, but takes more skill). End up with this:

...I did it almost the same way as the FSM, but I put it over the idler pulley before the water pump sprocket, then hold it past the tensioner pulley while stretching it on the water pump side, then over the cam sprocket as tight as it can be. Note that all the slack has ended up on the tensioner side, and it's taut on the water pump side. Think about it: you will rotate the crank [clockwise] to test timing, and if there is slack to begin with on the water pump side, the slack will get taken up and the cam will start moving AFTER the crank, which means you have thrown the timing off. Always make sure you have no slack on the water pump side; you may have to move the crank or cam sprockets half a tooth to line up, but then return them to their correct positions and make sure there is no slack on that side before proceeding.

If you followed the previous successfully, then loosen the tensioner pulley bolt so that it takes up slack, and then tighten it:

Now at this point, we check the valve timing. The FSM outlines a procedure, which we will follow because it minimizes the chances of the timing belt jumping (note that I'm following it out of order, this is just how I like to do it so I don't have to keep pulling a potentially sticky balancer if I mess up). First, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt 1/2 turn. Then, slowly (and I do mean slowly, or you'll jump time and have to redo the belt) turn the crank 720 degrees (2 revolutions) from TDC to TDC and back to TDC. Check that the cam sprocket hole aligns with the notch. If it does, you successfully timed your engine!

We're not out of the woods yet. Retighten the tensioner pulley, then remove the crank bolt with your impact wrench:

Now you have to install the timing belt guide washer:

...note the cupping, the cup side faces outward. Push it right up against the sprocket and belt:

And now, we have to address the timing covers. Mine had a fair bit of dust and a bit of oil on them. Lower:


...I chose to give them an easy scrubbing in a heated parts washer:

...I checked the factory foam gasket, and it was still in good shape. Note that the heated solvent wasn't a good idea - it did clean the covers pretty well (upper inside):

Upper outside:

...but it caused the adhesive to let go on the lower cover:

I still chose to reuse that gasket, as it's easy - with the engine out - to make sure that the gasket doesn't get pinched or herniated. If you are replacing the gasket, make sure all residue is scrubbed off, and buy OEM GASKETING ONLY. Do NOT buy the Beck/Arnley, or Mahle - they both rebrand the Nitto stuff, and the adhesive on that is terribad.

Install the lower timing cover, and secure it with timing cover bolts. In totum you have 4 shorter timing cover bolts and 4 longer. The lower cover is held by 3 short and 1 long. Short one goes here, and that one in the middle (to the left) is short as well:

...and the third one here:

Long one here:

Torque all 4 to 69 in-lbs, and voila:

Now, you loosen the tensioner bolt, again. Also, route the CKP stub harness like so and plug it into the sensor:

Install the crank pulley/harmonic balancer and torque the 19mm bolt to 80 ft-lbs. I used a torque stick:

Now, back to the FSM instructions. Turn the crank slowly 1 7/8 revolutions to line up the crank notch on the HB with the 45 deg BTDC mark on the timing cover:

...and torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 31 ft-lbs. This is to minimize the chance of the timing belt jumping from the camshaft forcing a move due to valve spring tension.

Now, the upper timing cover is secured by 1 short bolt and 3 long ones. Here's the short one:

...and the long ones:

...the one I'm pointing to goes through both timing covers. Torque them all to 69 in-lbs.

OK, install that pesky RH engine mount bracket that is honestly the hardest part (IMO) of doing a regular timing belt job. Here I'm showing it near the two holes in the block for it: can't see those when doing a TB with the engine in the car, at least, not until you pull that bracket. Two 14mm bolts (all 3 bolts are the same):

...and one on top, at the alternator bracket:

Torque all 3 to 38 ft-lbs. Can't do that with the engine in the car, can you? Hahaha

Now we're going to figure out fuel delivery and air induction. First off, fuel rail and injectors. Here's my fuel rail, freshly hot-tanked:

We're going to refresh the seals, but not this end:

...leave it be. This is a part of a returnless fuel system, this side never leaks that I've seen. Clamp the rail in a vise by one of the bolt hole bosses, and use your metric adjustable wrench (wahaha) to break loose the pulsation damper: doubles as the banjo bolt for the feed line, and has two weirdo-gaskets:

At this point, I flushed the rail through with brake parts cleaner to get rid of any residue or dirt from the hot-tanking:

Get your new damper gaskets, and put one on the damper:

Put it through the feed line, and install the second gasket:

...note which way the bend in the fuel line is pointing. Install the assembly to the fuel rail, taking care that the feed line ends up between the guides:

Finger-tight the damper, and clamp the rail once again in your vise:

Now comes the hard part, if you want to do this properly. The damper has a torque spec (25 ft-lbs), but the rail's features make it impossible to get a standard crowfoot wrench on there to torque it. The FSM lists an SST (probably fancy weirdo crowfoot), but who the hell is going to buy that for something that will, in all probability, be done once in the car's lifetime? Well, my solution is far worse: I have a special tool that makes torquing this possible. An ADJUSTABLE CROWFOOT, SON:

...this is literally the only time I have ever used this tool. Check it:

You have to recalculate torque due to the crowfoot lengthening the lever arm. The equation is simple, if you remember your basic physics:

T_new = (T_spec x L)/(L + A)

...where T_spec is the original torque spec (25 ft-lbs), L is the original lever arm length (1.0833 ft), A is the additional length for the lever arm (0.1875 ft), and T_new is what you set your torque wrench to to accommodate. After calculations, the new torque is 21.3 ft-lbs.

All this only matters if you're a stickler like me, however. My Cam is better than yours ;).

Fuel injector time! I sent the injectors out to Dr. Injector in Sacramento for before-and-after flow testing (before and after cleaning). I sent them out labeled with the cylinder they came out of, which they engraved (so the Sharpie wouldn't be washed away by whatever solvent they use). They clean them in an ultrasonic tank, immersed in solvent with the injectors being pulsed. Afterwards, they replace the external seals and the internal basket (screen), then generate a report and ship 'em back. Right around $25/ea for these injectors. Here they are:

...they labeled the bag with suggested injector placements. The idea behind it is that after cleaning, some injectors flow a bit less (which would cause whichever cylinder they were in to run leaner). So leaner injectors go on the outside cylinders, which run cooler than the inside cylinders and can better resist the increase in temperature and potential pinging from the leaner mixture. All this optimization doesn't really matter, because if an injector was running a cyl lean enough to cause pinging, you would replace it.

Here's an injector, with a fresh o-ring as a seal to the rail, and a thicker rubber seal for the head. The guy at Dr. Injector assured me they were Viton seals:

Engraved with which cylinder it came out of:

They didn't replace the spacer grommet, but I bought several Beck/Arnley CA injector seal kits for this job:


short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Engine refresh. Continued 8. I pulled out the grommets only and installed them to each injector:

Before installing the injectors and rail to the head, we should give it a good cleaning. Lots of dirt and grime:

I used a combination of wire brushes, cup brush-on-a-drill, and brake parts cleaner to get it to this:

...before I started hating the nooks and crannies and busted out the carb cleaner. Then, you want to take the head seal off the injectors' firing ends, oil them a bit (engine oil will do...we don't want whatever you use sticking around too long and messing with fuel delivery, so don't use assembly lube), and stick them in the holes in the head:

...note that I also installed the plastic fuel rail spacers.

Lube up the o-ring on each injector with engine oil. I noticed a nice touch that the Dr. Injector guy left me with - a bit of dielectric grease on each terminal:

Gently push each injector into the appropriate position in the fuel rail, twisting while you do it. End up with:

Ducks in a row, son:

Line up the injectors with the head seals, then slide them in and seat the rail on the spacers before inserting the 12mm bolts and torquing them to 9 ft-lbs:

...afterward, twist each injector left and right to see that they turn smoothly; if they bind, you probably twisted an o-ring.

Before we install the intake manifold, we'll test the EGR VSV mounted to the back of the head since it's easy to reach now. 12mm bolt:

First test is resistance between the terminals - 33-39 ohms at 20 deg C. Doesn't change much with temperature:

...aaaand it already failed:, that would've been a PitA to change with the engine in. Some like to relocate it, I can usually do it fast so I never do.

Luckily, I replaced a similarly bad VSV when I did my first engine swap on this car with an Aisin VST-006 (OE part):

...resistance between terminals read 35 ohms, excellent. Other tests are checking for continuity between each terminal and the shell (there should be NO continuity), and applying voltage and seeing which way air flows (I won't get into that here). Go ahead and reinstall the EGR VSV to the head, there's no torque spec given.

Alright, now before we install the intake manifold, we're going to start on the wiring harness so that we don't have to snake it through the scorpion intake. Line it up and press the connectors for the injectors on like so:

...note where the brown and gray connectors go. Next, clip the crankshaft position sensor pigtail to the long timing belt cover bolt here: just pushes on at this age. When the clip was new, it might have needed you to screw the bolt in. Route the line forward behind the timing cover and clip it again to the long bolt on the other side:

Now I had a bit of an oversight here. If you've been following this guide blindly, you're about to have the same oversight, dummy: The line needs to be routed behind the side engine mount bracket. Undo the 14mm bolts enough to let it swing out so you can slither the line behind it:

...then bolt it back up and torque to spec. The line keeps snaking down the timing cover until it clips to the alternator adjustment bracket:

...mine is broken as you can see in the pic, but the next clipping is on the upper timing cover, then to the bracket. Note that the CKP stub harness is on the bracket as well...pull the connector down from the harness and click it into place.

Now for the intake. If you had it cleaned like I did, now's the time to reassemble all the little clamp brackets and such. All the bolts for these are 10mm, torque them all to 69 in-lbs. There are these two in the cradle:

These two on the left side (note how their stops interact with the intake boss and pipe):

And don't forget these two bolts at the back:

...don't torque those last ones yet, they're for the harness ground straps.

I'm using a Mahle intake gasket:

Pretty shoddy:

...looks like thin-gauge metal with a rough coating to help it seal. Eh, it'll do the job.

Now before mounting the intake to the engine, you want to take the ground straps and the pigtails for the knock sensor and the EGR VSV and route them through the intake's gap, like so:

Then, with the new gasket on the head, push the intake onto the two mounting studs. It'll stay on there as long as your engine is stable. Left side stud with intake on it:

Install the intake with the 6 12mm bolts and 2 12mm nuts. Torque is 14 ft-lbs, go inside to outside (end with the nuts). Here's a pic of the right side where you can see 2 bolts and a nut:

Plug in the knock sensor and EGR VSV, then bolt the ground straps (might want to clean them first, IME these get very grimy from valve cover leaks) to the intake and torque to 69 in-lbs:

Go to the cradle of the intake and clip the harness to it:

Now we put more stuff back on the intake. First is this little rubber vacuum cap and its clamp: may have hardened with age (and if your PCV isn't doing its job), you can replace it with any rubber or silicone vacuum cap that fits. That port is not used on gen4, on gen3 it accommodates a line from the power steering idle-up valve.

Now for the gas filter (that's "gas" as in "gasoline"). I already started cleaning mine, but these get sludged up:

...if this lets fumes through, the MAP sensor gets damaged. I've never had to replace one. Might as well clean it while we're at it. After it's clean, put some blue Loctite on the threads:

...and screw it in (24mm socket) until it gets to this point:

Next up, PCV. Here's the new OE hardware next to the old elephant nose (hose) and snapped-off part:

Again, OE ONLY for PCV. If you're buying a Chinese PCV valve, then it wasn't a problem you cared about to begin with. Lube up the grommet and push it into the hole on the valve cover:

Lube up the PCV valve and push it into the grommet, lining up the wiener with the slot (I had to stop myself from typing "slit." Wahaha):

Transfer the shocker clamps onto the new hose, and install it like so (note that the white paint mark is facing upward):

Next up, the EGR stuff. The EGR valve gets pretty carboned up, here's the outlet with a ridge of carbon:

And the inlet:

...if you're having issues with the EGR valve sticking open or closed, you'll have to get in there and clean carbon out from inside with pipe brushes and carb cleaner. I'm only cleaning the outside because my EGR is working fine. Clean, son: this point you should have mastered the specific sect of cleaning that I adhere to.

Here's the outlet-side gasket:

...some sort of shellac or waxy fiberpaper (I just made that word up). Just stick it on the intake (after making sure all traces of the old gasket are gone):

I put the EGR valve on with one nut to show you that the bores are significantly bigger than the studs:

The next few pics show what I did to "align" the EGR valve to be as centered as possible. I'm pretty OCD about this, but know that you can skip all this and just assemble it from the bottom (EGR tube at head) up.

Clean the rust off the bushing in the head, then slather some copper antiseize on it:

...then hold the tube ferrule against the opening while you screw the nut onto the bushing. Screw it on loose so you can adjust other stuff (if you're following my OCD weirdness).

Here's the inlet-side gasket:'s a crush gasket, the short answer is, it works either way. If you really care, take a look at other crush gaskets to choose the orientation. Slip it between the EGR tube and the valve:

The bolts that hold the tube to the valve get pretty rusty:

...clean them up as well as you can, then loosely install the tube to the EGR valve. Now for the OCD stuff, dog!

...I noticed that the bore in the EGR valve is smaller than the bore in the intake. So I used a hexagon wrench (commonly known as Allen wrenches, although IIRC "Allen" refers to SAE hex wrenches) to try and feel around and hold it center before tightening the EGR valve nuts:

Torque the 2 12mm nuts to 10 ft-lbs, and then the 2 10mm bolts holding the tube to 7 ft-lbs. End up with:

To torque the union nut at the head, you'll need a 19mm crowfoot wrench. I gave you the equations earlier, so figure out the right torque. The FSM torque value is 45 ft-lbs:

Next, install the EGR modulator with the 10mm bolt (69 in-lbs) to the intake, and hook up the lower tube to the valve:

Now retrieve the sheath that holds the EGR vacuum lines and clip it to the back of the intake:


short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Engine refresh. Continued 9.

...the wiring harness clips behind the vacuum line sheath as you can see, here's a better image so you know which part of the harness to clip there:

Next up, install the vacuum lines to the EGR VSV. The yellow-striped line goes to the right end of the VSV, and the white-striped line goes near the filter on the left end:

Up top, the yellow line hooks up to port Q on the vacuum modulator:

Here's a pullback view to show you how to route the lines to the other ports on the modulator (and the white-striped line goes to the top of the valve):

...and that concludes the EGR. Next up, the water bypass pipe and oil cooler. Check it:

...since I'm retrofitting a gen3 oil cooler, I needed a pipe that would accommodate that. Did some research to figure it out. The pipe in the middle with no oil cooler ports is gen4 stock: AFAIK no gen4 came stock with an oil cooler. The one on top is from a gen3: the heater hose end is shorter than a gen4 pipe, so I didn't take a chance on it. Now after pawing through parts diagrams, I found that there is a gen4 oil cooler available, with a corresponding bypass pipe: that's the one on the bottom there. Note that it has the oil cooler ports like the gen3, but the heater hose end is long like the gen4 stock. I chose to use a gen3 oil cooler vs the available gen4 cooler for three reasons:

- the gen3 cooler puck is easily available from junkyards, since all gen3 5S (again, AFAIK) came with them
- Toyota-actual parts diagrams are pretty WYSIWYG (hah, anybody else work in IT in a previous life?), and the gen3 cooler looks significantly beefier (more heat transfer area) than the gen4 cooler (which I have never seen)
- at the time of this writing, my cost for a gen4 oil cooler is $550. I've spent enough on this heap

Let's go to the stock filter bushing. Give it a good cleaning with your cup brush and brake parts cleaner:

Grab your impact wrench and a 22mm socket, zip it off:

Here it is, the stock bushing has no gaskets or anything:

What's that white crap in there:

...whatever. Here's the gasket and o-ring for the water bypass pipe:

Yeah, I mouthed off earlier about crush-gasket orientation, but I like to face the bump outward, toward whatever is doing the crushing. So bump outward toward the bypass pipe:

Install the o-ring to the pipe, lube it up with something (FSM says soapy water), and push it onto the studs and the o-ring into the water pump:

Oh, get your exhaust manifold gasket:

...and install it to the head, then torque the 2 10mm nuts for the bypass pipe to 82 in-lbs:

Torque the 2 12mm bolts the hold the bypass pipe to the head to 14 ft-lbs. My torque wrench is on one of them, and I'm pointing to the other:

Now back to the oil cooler. The block has a tapped hole for the oil cooler retaining stud, but on a gen4 that hole will be all full of crud. Run an M6 tap through it (I'm assuming you know how to operate a tap properly):

Lotta nasty crap in there:

...blast the hole out with brake parts cleaner after. The stud:

Screw it in 'til it stops:

And now, new oil cooler seals. This is the main outer seal:

Install it to the bottom of the oil cooler like so:

...note how the thin edge is under all the tabs. The inner seal:'s basically a rubber washer. That goes under the lip in the middle:

Put it on the block with the retaining tab on the stud:

The final seal, for the bypass valve:

Your oil filter will have a bypass valve, the oil cooler has an overpressure bypass valve (doubles as the oil filter adapter/bushing). It centers the oil cooler puck, install it with the washer:

...30mm socket, torque to 58 ft-lbs. Grab the retaining nut (10mm), and torque it on the stud to 69 in-lbs.

Next, new cooler hoses. The hoses for a gen3 Camry vs gen4 are the same, regardless of combination of cooler and bypass pipe. They come with new heatshielding preinstalled, and I got new clamps as well:

...I love how Toyota sell spring clamps. You just position them:

...note that the white marks on the hoses are facing outward. Then, remove the little pink clips and they spring tight:

...that's it for the oil cooler until it's time to test-fit a filter. Let's move on to the ignition coils. Each coil is held to the bracket by two 10mm bolts, remove them to get the bracket bare for cleaning:

Here's a coil:

...the Denso aftermarket offering, for all intents and purposes, is the same as the OE coil (pictured). The OE coil is marked to help with spark plug wire hookup: "1 4" on one and "2 3" on the other. They are just markings, totally interchangeable. Here is the proper positioning after you get it all clean:

...torque the 10mm bolts to 87 in-lbs. If you haven't already, clean up the head behind the ignition coil bracket, then mount the bracket to the head over the two studs:

...the two 12mm nuts you see, along with the 12mm bolt that I have the socket on, are torqued to 15 ft-lbs. Top right of the bracket, is an empty hole - the 14mm bolt goes there, torque is 31 ft-lbs.

Now that the ignition coils are situated, we can work on getting the throttle body back in place. I'm going to clean both my CA-spec and my federal throttle body, although I'll only be installing the CA-spec. Check out how dirty they both are: is my CA-spec, which has accumulated some carbon 6000 miles after my initial swap (I cleaned it then). The bottom has a flaky layer so thick you can see it peeling like pot pie crust...I doubt it's ever been properly cleaned, and/or PCV serviced.

The IAC valve is different between CA and federal, and not physically interchangeable. CA-spec of these years can flow more air, has more surface area (is longer):

...and federal:

The throttle position sensor is the same between CA and federal. Here's the correct part:

My first swap, I figured out that the replacement engine was federal when it wouldn't idle properly. I got a CA throttle body from the Pick-n-pull, and somebody had already swapped the TPS (unbeknownst to me). It worked fine, but here it is:

Remove the EVAP line from the port on top of the throttle body:

...I put a new one on during my initial swap, which I'll be using this time. The old one from the donor cracked:

Next up, remove the TPS:

...I'm using a hex bit because I replaced the screws the first time around with more manageable ones. Your stock screws will be JIS (as peddled so much around these forums, looks like Philips but isn't. Use Philips and you might strip them, so get JIS drivers).

This is what I replace all the throttle body JIS screws with:

...hex bit screws with a split-lock washer. I'll revisit sizes on reassembly.

The TPS and the mating drive peg:

...only goes on one way to allow the bolt holes to line up.

Next up, remove the IAC coolant hoses. At least one might be damaged from oil exposure:

...OMG parasitic worm mouth. Now we can remove the IAC valve from the TB. You'll want to use a manual impact screwdriver to minimize the chance of camming out and stripping the screws:

...the IAC should pop off with minimal effort after that. Here's the CA-spec one:

...the gasket often sticks to the valve, just peel it off and toss it.

Level out the IAC valve in a vise, then fill it with carb cleaner and let it soak while we handle other things:

Let's take a look at the federal IAC I'm cleaning up. Those idiots running tap water means there's some rust buildup on the ports:


Back to the CA IAC. After a while, the carbon will be loosened up and you can blast it away with more carb cleaner. Get in there with a wire brush, work the slider back and forth with more carb cleaner to get as much carbon as possible:

...oh, and your cup brush-on-a-drill will make short work of the mating surface.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Engine refresh. Continued 10.

I ended up with this:

Next, I moved onto the throttle body. Used my cup brush, that little pokey brush you saw, and more carb cleaner to get it to this:

Also get inside the warm-up cavity and air bypass passages:

Here's a CA-spec IAC gasket:

...again, the gaskets are different between CA and federal and not interchangeable. Oil it up a bit and plop it into the groove on the TB:

...aaand here's my CA-spec TB assembly, reassembled with hex-head screws and split-lock washers:

...the IAC valve screws are M5 x 0.8 x 16mm (20mm works as well), and the TPS screws are M4 x 0.7 x 12mm.

OK, back to the federal, as a case study. Again, I don't think this one has been cleaned in a loooong time. I couldn't move the slider with my finger so I took off the motor armature: was sealed by some sort of non-setting elastic glue (the whitish-gray stuff). When I resealed it, I used Hylomar, which is non-setting but not elastic.

Grab the magnet with a pair of pliers and twist it back and forth:

...with carb cleaner, of course. Then, reassemble the motor and scrub out any other carbon you can.

OK, back to the one I'm going to use, the CA-spec one. I installed new coolant hoses:

...the forward one has a yellow stripe, and the rearward one has a white stripe:

...clamp them properly to the IAC valve now, as that's harder to do with the TB installed.

OK, installation time. Put the long 12mm bolts through the 3 holes on the TB, then slip the new gasket over them:

...note that I've reinstalled the EVAP hose. Install the TB to the intake manifold, and torque the three 12mm bolts to 14 ft-lbs. Then, hook the forward coolant hose to the water outlet:

Pass the wiring harness between the forward coolant hose and the ignition coil bracket, and clip the clamp onto the coil bracket:

Hook the rearward coolant hose to the bypass pipe:

Clearance between the rearward hose's insulator and the EGR pipe is tight:

...try and twist the ends of the coolant hose before clamping to maximize the distance between it and the EGR pipe. That will conclude throttle body installation.

Next up, the bypass connector hose. This doesn't often go bad, but why not replace it since my system had nasty crud flowing through it. Here it is:

I reused my clamps and installed it between the bypass pipe and the water outlet:

...note that the white mark faces upward. I take it you're getting the hand of these mysterious paint marks on OE hoses ;).

Now for the thermostat. I got an OE Kuzeh and used the tstat seal that came with the Aisin kit:

...Kuzehs will have the "burned" looking ring. Tamas (the other OE) will not.

Lube up the tstat seal with some coolant, and install it like this into the tstat housing:

...note which way the spring is pointing (away from the housing, into the engine), and note that the jiggle valve is in line with the little tab jutting out from the housing (officially, you have 5 degrees of leeway there).

Install the tstat housing to the water pump housing with the two 10mm nuts:

...torque to 78 in-lbs. Note that I'm using the aluminum gen3 housing as an upgrade to the plastic gen4 housing.

OK, now back to the oil cooler system. The next few steps are optional: I'm installing an oil temperature gauge, so I need to accommodate that. Most temp senders for such an application are threaded NPT, and most Japanese cars, when using pipe thread to seal, use BSPT. I found this adapter on eBay that extends the BSPT port where the oil pressure switch mounts, and provisions a 1/8" NPT port for a sender:

I used more blue Loctite to install the adapter to the head, this far in:

...note that I have the port facing toward what would be the driver side.

Blue Loctite on the oil pressure switch along with the washer that came with the adapter:

...the Loctite isn't strictly necessary; the threads in the adapter are cut so that they don't seal against the oil pressure switch and it goes all the way in, so it needs the crush washer to seal. Tighten it against the adapter:

Install the engine hanger, connector bracket, and ground strap:

Torque the 14mm bolt to 31 ft-lbs and make sure the stop is pushed against the head. Torque the 10mm bolt to 82 in-lbs.

While we're at it, might want to take apart the hanger on the other side and clean it and the ground strap under it (along with head surface):

...same torque for the 14mm bolt, 31 ft-lbs.

Alright, now for the exhaust manifold. Here are both that I have:

...the top one is CA-spec and the bottom one is federal. Note that the CA-spec has a much larger cat element, and the federal has this wussy little pumpkin. They're different until the last model year of gen4: 2001s have the same, CA-spec cat for all cars. I obviously have to use a CA-spec cat here in Cali just in case a smog tech is, you know, not a dumbass. I have the heatshields off so you can see, but you should have the lower heatshielding (covering the cat element) on before installation. You need the upper heatshield off for installation.

Clean up the flange aggressively to get rid of carbon, and rust I guess:

Your exhaust manifold gasket should still be hanging out on the studs at the head. Slip the mani over them, and snug down the six 14mm nuts (two above the snakepipes, four below):

...might want to put some copper antiseize on the studs before doing that. Torque them inside-to-out to 36 ft-lbs.

Install the upper heatshield with the five 12mm bolts: torque spec given, if you have to have one, 14 ft-lbs with antiseize. CA-spec heatshields are nicer, with insulators at the bolt holes:

And now, to finalize the oil cooler stuff: we're going to choose an oil filter. I bought all the ones listed in the maintenance sticky:

...from left to right, 5S-FE filter, 2AZ-FE filter, 1MZ-FE filter, and Ford Vulcan filter. I bought Densos but the Vulcan filter is a Mahle OC 479. I wanted the biggest filter possible so I started with the Vulcan filter and worked my way down to find what would fit. Now, the Vulcan filter seems to fit fine, clears the exhaust manifold:

...but it interferes with the oil dipstick due to the extra height from the cooler puck:

...The dipstick tube, like most dipstick tubes, is one step short of press-fit into the block. I was contemplating swapping the tube for one from a RAV4 3S-FE, which looked like it would fit when I checked one out at the junkyard. However, I checked oil capacities and the 3S-FE takes significantly more oil in that application than the Camry 5S. Didn't risk it.

Between the 2AZ filter and the 1MZ filter, the 1MZ (Denso 150-2010) is a no-brainer because it's the same height, but fatter. It fit just fine:

...welp, looks like I'm only stocking 1MZ filters for my Toyotas from now on since I have (WILL have) this 5S beater, my '99 Camry V6, and my '01 ES300.

OK, final few things. Since I have this engine sitting outside, it of course got some flash rust on the iron block:

...cup brush, son:

There are some moderate rust deposits on the rear end plate as well:

...use the cup brush to clean that up and get grime off it before blasting it clean with brake cleaner:

Nab its 10mm bolt, and secure it to the back of the engine like so:

...note where the locating pegs are, and torque the bolt to 82 in-lbs.

Now, since the flexplate bolts utilize red Loctite, I chased the holes in the crank with a tap to clean them first:

...of course, blast the holes with brake cleaner after you do this.

Next up, we install what Toyota calls the "front spacer" to the end of the crank. Here's a pic showing its locating peg and the corresponding hole in the crank:

...sitting pretty:

And set the flexplate on the end of the crank:

...note that the weld beads are facing toward the engine (well, you can't see them but you can see the bluing from welding on the visible side). Also note that witness marks from the torque converter bosses around the holes.

Now for Toyota's "rear spacer." Cupping faces outward:

Clean the flexplate bolts, and apply red Loctite:

Snug them down:

...and torque the bolts while counterholding the crankshaft to 61 ft-lbs. Criss-cross pattern.

Next, spark plug wires. I had a two year-old set of NGKs from my blown engine so I swapped those on. The wire clips either break off due to being brittle with age, or break off when you try to remove them because of the fir tree-style of retention. You can drill out and blow away the remaining part:

I had a few good ones, so I installed them in the valve cover and routed the wires. Missing just one:


short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Engine refresh. Continued 11.

Now for the coolant temp senders. The gauge sender is pipe thread, so I used blue Loctite: torque setting. Turn it in until you're satisfied, 12mm socket. The ECU temp sender seals with a washer, but again, no torque spec. Just look at how I oriented the connectors:

Now pull the wiring harness over and plug in the coil connectors:

...maybe spray 'em down with some brake cleaner to get rid of the residual grime from the distributor hole plug. Next, plug in the temp sender connectors:

Clip the O2 sensor connector onto the bracket:

...view from the other side:

Plug in the audio filtering capacitor and the oil pressure switch:

...if you installed the adapter for a gauge sender, the connection might be a little low on slack, but it should be fine. Head on over to the throttle body and hook up the two vacuum hoses to the remaining two ports:

Head to the other side and plug in the camshaft position sensor connector:

...note that the power steering pressure switch connector is ripped off. At this point I realized that I had used the donor engine's harness. The only difference between a CA-spec harness and a federal harness is the O2 sensor connector, which is keyed differently for wideband vs narrowband sensors, respectively. It's actually pretty easy to wiggle out and swap with all this stuff on the engine, I got it back to this point in under 10 minutes. Luckily, the pigtail for the power steering pressure switch wasn't ripped off on my CA-spec harness, just the connector housing broke off.

Also, the gauge temp sender connector housing was broken, and guess what: both of those use the same connector housing! Terminal at the gauge sender:


It has a little plastic plug in it, which you should remove:

If you have the same problem as I did, just push the terminal into the connector housing, it goes in only one way:

...then pull the plastic peg out.

I still had to repair the P/S pressure switch connector. A look inside the connector from the back:

...a closer look at the terminal:

...snap the terminal into the housing, and the harness boot covers it:

Now go back to the throttle body and plug in the IAC valve connector:

And the TPS connector:

Now move to the alternator. We have to properly position the adjustment bracket. First thing is the little block. Secure it in the channel with the 12mm lock bolt:

...note which way it's facing (with the adjustment bolt in at the front of the block). If that block is flipped, the adjustment bolt will be crooked, which will cause problems.

When the lock bolt stops at each end of the channel, the adjustment bracket is positioned properly. Grab the alternator (NOT the adjustment bolt) and pull it all the way up until the lock bolt stops:

...and all the way down until stop:

...once this is done, torque the adjustment bracket's 12mm bolt at the bottom to 16 ft-lbs:

The final thing is to change out the oil filler cap gasket. Here's the new gasket next to the old one (installed in cap):

Use a pick or scribe to puncture the old gasket so you can get a grip and pull it out. Mine was hardened so bad it cracked coming out and I had to pull it out in chunks:

The cap gasket has a filleted (rounded) edge on one side:

...that side goes toward the oil cap. The square-edged side faces outward, just push the gasket into the groove:

...and install it to the engine:

Aaand we're done refreshing the engine! Time to move on to the trans.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Transmission refresh.

Torque converter has to come out first. Mine got a little flash-rusty from sitting outside:'ll pull right out:

...tip it over a drain pan and pour out as much of the trans fluid as will come out (not much). Behind the TC exists the fluid pump and the TC shaft seal: can see it's been weeping a little, building up some grime. To pull it out, you need the proper seal puller: an angle, nab the seal in its channel: in, be careful not to scratch up the bore with the puller hook. Then, lever the seal out:

I'm using a Timken seal:

...lubed with LubeGard Assemblee Goo:

...I've gotten Timken seals that were the wrong size before, so I checked against the one I took out:

Either get some PVC pipe that fits to tap it in evenly, otherwise do what I did and tap it in using a small mallet going around and around until it's in, a millimeter deeper at a time:

Now to get the torque converter back in. Lube up the torque converter shaft with some transmission assembly lube, then get it in, making sure not to roll the new seal's lip. It has two concentric sets of splines, which mate to two shafts in the transmission. I don't have pics of this but I've written other guides that do. I'll try to describe it as well as I can. The torque converter shaft has two cutouts that mate with two teeth in the transmission...take a look so you can see. It's hard to mate those with the transmission sideways; get gravity to help you and tilt the transmission up so you only have to worry about turning the TC until it drops into place:

...if your dipstick tube is out like mine, fluid will spill out, so you want to put down something absorbent. You'll know when the TC is seated properly, it'll be about 13mm in from the outside edge of the bellhousing:

OK, before continuing, note that in all probability your transmission case will be grimy and nasty. While working on resealing the trans I cleaned off grime with my cup brush when I could, using small wire brushes to get into nooks and crannies, and blew away the dirt with compressed air. The case will be especially nasty with oil grime on top of the differential housing, since the distributor hole plug and valve cover gasket leaks go unaddressed so often. Use brake cleaner while scrubbing there. Oh, and make sure whenever removing components, that chunks of grime don't fall into the transmission.

OK, we'll start with the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). Here it is, on the front of the case:

...there are two 10mm bolts that secure the NSS to the case and allow for adjustments. I'll notate positioning as right (passenger side as trans is installed in the car) and left (driver side). When the control crank is turned all the way to the right, the trans is in Park. You can count the stops as you turn it toward the driver side, they'll match up to the positions on your shift lever in the cabin. Turn it all the way to the left (corresponds to L position, but that's irrelevant) to get it out the way so you can access the lower 10mm bolt:

Once the two 10mm bolts are of, zip off the 12mm control crank retaining nut and split-lock washer, then pry and wiggle the crank off the shaft:

Here it is:

Underneath it is a large 22mm nut with a finger'd lock washer under that; the washer also has a pointer to aid in proper positioning later. Here: may seem that you need to do this:

...but the torque is very low and you don't need an impact wrench. Make sure you bend the fingers on the lock washer outward first so the socket doesn't damage them.

Loosened, with lock washer behind it (and foam seal ring behind that):

...note that the FSM has an erroneous drawing if you go directly to the NSS section (if you're using the FSM): it shows that the finger'd washer goes in front of the large nut. Not correct, and the correct drawing is provided in the transmission overhaul section.

OK, now to get the NSS off the trans. My donor transmission was corroded all to hell, so if yours is, the first thing you want to do is spray it down with a good penetrating lubricant. If you do this:

...note that those quarter-shanks WILL break. Ask me how I know. Or rather, let me show you:

Luckily, I had a good one on my busted transmission, just a lot dirtier:

...I remembered servicing it a couple years ago, so it slid right off:

The case is held by JIS screws. There are other DIYs out there for NSS service, but I got a pic of it pulled open:

...basically, open it up, don't lose the copper sliding contacts and their springs in the wiper arm, use a rag and electronics contact cleaner to remove all the old grease, clean the case halves of grime, pack it with new grease, reassemble. Set the refreshed NSS aside for later, as we have to service the stuff mounted behind it on the trans case.

Now if you broke an NSS, you might have the collar stuck on the trans control shaft:

First things first, penetrating oil. Then:

Rusty shaft:

...give it a good cup-brushing, and spray it down with penetrating oil before reassembly.

OK, now to tackle the rest of the stuff in that vicinity. Overhead view (yeah, the collar is still on the shaft. Wahaha):

First, we get the dipstick tube back in. Here it is again:

The o-ring for it:

...use a pick to remove the old o-ring, lube up the new one with ATF, and install it to the tube: may want to clean up the area around the dipstick tube hole on the case, then twist the tube as you push it in. Secure it with the 10mm bolt to 69 in-lbs. Here's the dipstick tube installed, with me pointing to the next thing:

...I may be wrong on this (not enough data), but the trend I've noticed is that Toyota recommends 82 in-lbs for 10mm bolts going into steel, and 69 in-lbs for 10mm bolts going into aluminum. Sometimes 78 in-lbs shows up, like with the water pump. Probably calculated values at that point.

OK, back to what I was pointing at: the solenoid wiring harness. Remove the 10mm bolt, and twist it out:

...note that this is the outside interface of the stub harness that connects the valve body-mounted solenoids to the engine wiring harness. See the wire going into the trans? Don't pull on it. That o-ring is not replaceable without removing the valve body and pulling the stub harness; the outside connector is too big. Also, Toyota only supplies the whole harness, the o-ring is not officially available. I just lubed it up with ATF and reinstalled it, but you could clean up the ATF and use some silicone if you're worried or it's leaking. It's also in your best interest to use a high-mileage ATF with seal swellers.

Clean up the surrounding area carefully (as with the dipstick tube, so that debris doesn't fall into the trans), then reinstall the connector with the 10mm bolt, again to 69 in-lbs.

Next up is the torque converter lock-up solenoid (Shift Solenoid SL, in Toyota parlance). Two 10mm bolts holding it in, this one first:

...then this one:

Twist it out:

...and replace the o-rings. The smaller o-ring:

...the larger o-ring:

...lube up with ATF, then clean the surround and install the solenoid back into the case. Torque both 10mm bolts to 69-in lbs, and here we are:

OK, now to the differential. We'll tackle the axle seals first; remove the right one near the torque converter:

Empty, grimy hole:

...go ahead and give that a good cleaning with brake parts cleaner. Don't worry about getting brake parts cleaner in the differential.

Here's a new seal (you need two):

Lube it up with trans assembly lube:

...and tap it in flush with the housing:

...the flared lip makes it annoying to get a suitably-sized piece of PVC pipe on it, so I use a 1/2" extension as a punch to tap it in gradually.

Now I had the differential side retainer (LH side retainer as per the FSM) hot-tanked, so let's assume that yours is also clean. Install the other axle seal flush with that:

Now you need the large o-ring that seals the LH side retainer:

Lube it up, and install it to the retainer:

...the left axle bearing in the differential is a tapered [needle] roller bearing. Note that the outer race is still pressed into the side retainer. Tapered roller bearings are self-centering after the initial positioning, IF they are properly lubed - so smear some assembly lube on the needle rollers in the differential. Next, you need to guide the diff assembly into the race in the side retainer. Use one hand to hold it up so it centers when you install the side retainer, like so:

Install the side retainer to the case, then tap it in evenly so it's flush, with a mallet:

Apply threadlocker to the six 12mm bolts for the retainer, and finger tight them:

NOTE: IGNORE THE BLUE THREADLOCKER in that pic. I used the wrong stuff, the manual calls for high-strength (Loctite Red), so I had to go back and redo them. Torque on the bolts is 14 ft-lbs.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Transmission refresh. Continued.

LH side retainer installed:

Next up is the rear differential cover. First up, clean the old threadlocker off the thirteen bolts for it; hold them with a pair of pliers:

...and hit them with your cup brush. 'Course, this is if you don't have a wire wheel laying around.

Here's the new rear cover gasket:

...the manual doesn't mention anything special about this paper gasket, but I like to extra-seal them with FIPG. Specifically, the official transmission stuff:

...if you want to, go ahead and smear both sides of the gasket with the RTV. Then, lay it on the clean rear cover:

Loctite red on all the bolts:

Then, use two bolts up top to position the cover:

There're eleven 12mm bolts, and two 14mm bolts. Install them, inside-to-outside, and torque them to 18 ft-lbs:

...I torqued the 14mm bolts to 18 ft-lbs as well, although it feels like they should have a higher torque. The FSM points out those two bolts as "Celica Only," but I checked the 5S-FE/A140E Celica manual and there's no additional information.

Oh, we can't forget the little vent that goes on top. Clean it up, then apply blue Loctite:

12mm socket will fit, get it to this point:

OK, now for the speedo sensor on top. That's exactly where these transmissions are always nasty, due to leakage from the distributor hole plug and valve cover gasket. Clean up the top as best you can:

...remove that 10mm bolt retaining bolt, and twist the speedo sensor while lifting it out: NOT wiggle it sideways to loosen it. A lot of these are fragile at the bottom shaft and gear, and that may snap off. Also, this one is aftermarket, but I highly recommend getting even a used OE unit if you have to replace it; IME most aftermarket ones are machined improperly and don't fit.

Clean up the mounting boss:

...and swap the o-ring on the speedo sensor with the right one (lube it up with ATF):

Now, a note about the retaining bolt. It's a long M6 bolt, but the torque spec is much higher than the usual 69 in-lbs. It's 12 ft-lbs (144 in-lbs). I find that a lot have been overtightened and stretched past the yield point. Either make sure you have a known-good bolt (doubtful), or replace it with a new OE bolt. This is all assuming that you want to keep to the OE torque spec, I'm a stickler, I know, screw you for not having a spec Camry like me ;).

Mine was stretched:

...(dunno if you can see the stretching) luckily, the bolt from my busted transmission was good, so I used that and torqued to 144 in-lbs:

Now, plans. I bought the gasket for the overdrive case as well, but opted not to do it - I've never seen that leak, presumably because most of these cars spend the least amount of time in overdrive and so the stuff isn't stressed. Also, I pulled the overdrive case on my busted transmission to see if it would go back in easily: NOPE. The FSM wants you to clear out a lot of guts before pulling the O/D case...splineshafts at two locations, and the O/D guts come out mounted to the case. Guess they were right, no shortcuts.

That being said, the last refresher I'll do to this is the pan gasket and screen filter. Got two choices, you can either mate the engine and trans, then do it in midair on the crane, or install the powertrain to the vehicle so it's supported by the subframe before tackling the pan. I strongly recommend the latter, but I did the former. This is a good time to reiterate, this guide is for informational purposes only, and I or Toyota Nation will not be held responsible for you hurting yourself or others. If you want to be unsafe and understand that it's on your head, not my problem.

OK, let's get back to this: time to mate the engine and trans. Get the bellhousing bolts on the trans first. The three on top go here:

...middle and right are 17mm, left is 14mm. The last 17mm bolt goes at the front of the trans:

You gotta get the trans close to the backside of the engine. Mine is sitting on a sheet of plywood on top of a triwheel dolly, so I just pushed it close:

...the engine was still a bit lower than the trans, so it was time to attach the hoist and lift the engine:

Then, you have to make sure the locating dowels get in their holes (wahaha). I find lubricating them with penetrating lube helps. here's the forward one:

...and the rearward one (seen through the bypass pipe loop):

Once the dowels are in, shove the transmission and/or the engine to close the gap as much as possible. We'll use the bellhousing bolts to pull them all the way to each other. Before that, this ground strap:

...goes to the 17mm bolt next to the 14mm bolt:

...torque the 17mm bellhousing bolts to 47 ft-lbs. The 14mm bolt screws into a boss on the rear end plate to hold the plate flat against the bellhousing; torque that to 34 ft-lbs.

Back up in the air:

Now we have to attach the torque converter to the flexplate. The FSM says to put in the "black-colored bolt" first, but TBH the bolts are all similar in color. I'll show you the way to tell which one goes in first:

...the one on the right goes in first. Can you tell the difference? The right one is a locating bolt with a tapered shoulder that makes sure the holes are all lined up. Also note that it is in fact lighter-colored than the other bolt (not black). The blue threadlocker on them is actually high-strength: the factory stuff Toyota used is not equivalent to Loctite 242 (blue, medium-strength); it's actually equivalent to Loctite 271 (red, high-strength). Brush it off and replace it with new high-strength threadlocker:

Line up the flexplate holes with the torque converter mounting bosses:

...install each bolt (shoulder bolt first, ofc), counterhold the crankshaft with your ratchet and 19mm socket, and torque to 20 ft-lbs (all six are 12mm). Then, rotate 60 degrees and do the next one, and so on until you've secured all of them.

Next up is the "No. 2 rear end plate," AKA the flexplate cover. It has a foam insulator on it, which at this point is usually looking like this and crumbling:

...I opted to replace it. Here's the new one and the flexplate cover:

...and the insulator installed to the pegs on the cover:

Install the flexplate cover to the bellhousing using its 10mm bolt:

...torque is 82 in-lbs. Then install the exhaust pipe bracket to the two unoccupied rearward holes with the 12mm bolts:

...torque on those is 14 ft-lbs.

At this point I was contemplating taking the Fumoto valve off my busted engine and swapping it onto the donor engine. Ended up doing that after the donor powertrain was installed to the car, but found that a cute little lizard had moved in under the busted engine:

Next up is the "RH stiffener plate," which installs to the back of the powertrain. Special precautions to take with this one, from my personal experiences fixing shitty mechanics' work on other 5S-FE/A140E's. It's held with four 14mm bolts:

...two short, one medium, and one long. If you put the medium (or long, I guess) where the short ones go, you WILL crack the block and cause, at the very least, an oil leak. That was a hard one to trace on my uncle's '95. First, put the long one in:

...then the medium:

...and finally the two short ones:

...torque them in the order you installed them to 29 ft-lbs. After that, install the intake manifold stay with the two 14mm bolts:

...same torque as the stiffener, 29 ft-lbs. Note where the white dot is; yours should have that, that shows you how the stay installs.

Next up is the "LH stiffener plate," which goes on the front of the powertrain. There's a difference between Japan-made cars (TMC) and Kentucky-made cars (TMMK). On TMC cars, the stiffener is held by two 14mm bolts and a 14mm nut (stud in block). On TMMK cars, it's held by three bolts. Both of my cars are Japan-made. Often, the nut pulls the stud out of the block, so I usually separate them and screw the stud back in:

Install the stiffener over that stud if you have it, and thread in the two bolts at the bellhousing:

...torque those to 31 ft-lbs. The stud helps with positioning of the "No. 2" exhaust manifold stay:

...and install that with the two 14mm nuts (nut and bolt if you have a TMMK car):

...on TMC cars, the nut holding the stay and stiffener to the block is a locknut (which I'm reusing, no biggie), and is torqued to 43 ft-lbs. The nut holding the stay to the manifold, 31 ft-lbs. On TMMK cars, the bolt to the block and the nut are both 31 ft-lbs.

Next up, the "No. 1" exhaust manifold stay. Two 14mm bolts:

...31 ft-lbs for those.

Alright, next up is reinstalling the NSS. I sprayed down the control shaft with Aerokroil again:

...and then slide the NSS back on:

Stick the little foam seal "washer" on after that:

Set the control shaft to Neutral (all the way to Park, then count two clicks away):

...note that I put the finger'd lock washer back on, so we can properly adjust the NSS. Thread in the two 10mm retaining bolts, then twist the NSS body until the finger on the washer lines up with the centerline on the NSS:

...once you've done that, the NSS is properly adjusted and you can torque those two bolts to 48 in-lbs.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Transmission refresh. Continued 2.

Now for the large 22mm retaining nut. It only goes on one way; right way:

...wrong way (this side clamps the quarter-shanks):

Installed, torqued to a measly 61 in-lbs:

...note that I bent the lock plate's weensy fingers to secure it. Next, put the control lever on with the split-lock washer and 12mm nut (9 ft-lbs):

...since your shifter is probably in Park, I'd put the lever back in Park as well so you won't have trouble later:

OK, now secure this part of the wiring harness to the bracket on the bellhousing bolt:

...I may have forgotten to mention that bracket. Ah well, you're not a baby, you should have figured it out. Connect the speedo sensor:

Hm, might want to clean off the ground here at the back of the head before the engine's in the car:

Then, hook up the two solenoid connectors and the NSS connector:

Next up, we'll install the starter motor. If you disconnected the solenoid-to-motor connector like I did, now is a good time to clean up the terminal and then reinstall it:

...12mm nut, 52 in-lbs. Drop the boot:

...and install it with the two 14mm bolts:

...note that the rearward bolt has the bracket on it. Torque on the mounting bolts is 27 ft-lbs.

Now for the front and rear mounts. I grab the top and bottom of each mount and wiggle them to make sure they are nice and stiff, not flopping around. Lift up the skirt on the front to check for cracking and the like:

After cleaning it and the block surface, install the front mount bracket to the engine using the four 14mm bolts:

...47 ft-lbs for all.

For the rear mount bracket, first check the axle bearing carrier in the lock bolt hole: you can see, the little rubber pad is still in that hole. Put it aside for later, then clean up the mount bracket and get it onto the block. Note the two dowels for locating the bracket properly:

Four 14mm bolts, same ones as the front mount bracket. Also 47 ft-lbs:

Now for this weird bracket on top of the transmission:

...the bolts have a weird flange on them. 14mm, 47 ft-lbs.

Aaaand might as well get the driver axle's awning back in: torque spec, but if I had to guess, I'd say do those 12mm bolts to 14 ft-lbs.

Now since the transmission's been sitting for a while, a lot of the fluid drained into the sump. I opened the drain plug:

The aluminum washer/gasket on the drain plug may have crimped onto it, in which case you should cut it off so you can replace it:

I threaded it back in finger-tight. Here's the pan after removing the fifteen 10mm bolts:

...the liquid is not just ATF, it's ATF holding a fair bit of clutch material. Note the buildup on the pan magnets: that's a normal level of buildup. If you want to see bad buildup, check my A140E valve body replacement DIY or wait up for my A140E teardown inspection. Finally, note the gasket; it's a rubberized cork gasket. Not as good as a full-rubber gasket, but not as bad as glued cork.

Came off reasonably easily:

You want to clean up the pan with rags and brake cleaner. Also wipe down the magnets, and use your cup brush to clean the flange:

...the pan magnets are in the proper locations, especially so they won't interfere with the oil pipes.

Here's the new screen filter:


First thing to remove the old filter is get the solenoid wire out of the clip spot-welded onto the filter:

Three 10mm bolts, and it comes out:

It's usually covered with clutch material that fell through from above. Closer look at outlet:

...note that the seal is collapsed somewhat, and the larger metal particles. That's all the screen filter does, filter larger particles.

To put the new one in, you don't want to mix up the bolts:

...the two short bolts go together on the side with the two holes, and the longer bolt is by itself on the other side. Installed:

...torque on those three 10mm bolts is 7 ft-lbs. Don't forget to reclip the solenoid wire to the strainer!

My new pan gasket is rubber. You want to lay it out on the pan flange, and secure it by screwing at least two corner bolts in:

Now, the FSM calls for torquing all the pan bolts to 43 in-lbs. I like to use the later instructions for U-series transmissions, which is to put transmission FIPG on each pan bolt and torque to 69 in-lbs. For the initial corner bolts, I put the FIPG tube over the bolt and squeeze out a bit:

Little kiss of RTV:

...unlike most official RTVs, the transmission FIPG is designed for quick return to service. Check the package:

...I call that perfect, 15 minutes is a lot more reasonable than 3. Clean the transmission mating surface, then lift the pan into place and thread in the corner bolts. Then, apply some FIPG to each of the other bolts before threading those in. Finally, torque in a criss-cross pattern to 69 in-lbs for all fifteen 10mm bolts:

Aaaaand we're done with the transmission refresh. Now to reinstall the powertrain and hook everything up.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Powertrain reinstallation.

Awwwright, now to get the engine and trans back into this mother. There are a few small things that should be taken care of before the hoist-hoist (like my Cloud Atlas pidgin English? :D).

First thing, if you replaced the distributor hole cap and redid the valve cover gasket due to leakage, the heater hoses are most definitely in bad shape from being doused in oil for the longest time. Might as well replace them:

...note how they intertwine, and that I transferred the clamps over from the old hoses. Also, gen3 and gen4 hoses are different due to gen3 having an inline heater valve (gen4 heater core is perma-hot, they use a blend door to control heat output). Finally, as of this writing, RockAuto doesn't list the correct Gates part numbers under a 2000 Camry 5S-FE; I figured out the right ones and listed them in parts.

Next up, I had to replace my broken exhaust manifold studs. They were jammed in there, and I used my best, rust-eating penetrating oil (Gasoila Free-All) and a chuck-type extractor. Managed to sprain my wrist getting them out!

...note the thread issue, the stud galled to the manifold. New ones installed with copper anti-seize:

...the ends are chewed up because my friend installed them, and opted not to chase the manifold holes with a tap (forced the studs in there with Vise-grips). Don't do that, run a tap through.

Remember that the second engine pull (busted engine), I opted not to remove the exhaust midpipe, so it's still in the car resting on the front of the subframe. Here's a new ring gasket installed:

...I also cleaned up the front mount pedestal with my trusty cup brush and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the rear mount pedestal:

...ignore the nasty around the steering rack, I sure did (LOL).

Final thing to prep is to swap out the fuel filter. Spent all that money having injectors refreshed, you can be damn sure I'm going to put in a fresh filter! If you remember, it's on the driver side of the engine bay:

Loosen the 14mm flare nut at the bottom:

...I strongly recommend using some penetrating oil, using a 19mm wrench to counterhold at the fuel filter, and use a 14mm flare nut wrench to break it loose. If you don't counterhold, you might twist the line removing it and then you have a bigger issue.

Two 10mm bolts hold the filter bracket to the chassis, undo those to remove it from the car:

New filter next to old: filter seems to be original. If you live in a major metropolitan center, you have access to gas stations slinging good-quality gas that has a high turnover. This is why a fuel filter would last the life of the vehicle. Maybe not so true 40 years ago. Note that the ridges on the fuel filter mate with the bracket. Also note that the new filter has a "crown" on top accommodating whichever way the fuel line may need to go and securing it.

Undo the 10mm clamp bolt to get the old filter out of the bracket:

...yes, they come from the factory with threadlocker. Use hand tools, go slowly, apply penetrating oil if necessary. No heat as we don't want the fuel filter to morph into an active grenade.

Line up the new filter's ridges with the bracket and get it to approximately the same position as the old one, then reclamp the bracket. Remove the plug from the bottom of the new filter, and reinstall the bracket to the chassis with the two 10mm bolts: torque spec for those, don't worry about it. German torque spec: gutantite. Then, place the fuel feed line in the inlet and screw in the flare nut. Tighten that until the flared end seals.

OK we're ready to drop the engine and trans back in. I'm not showing you more pics of the powertrain on the crane, too many of those already. First thing you want to do before lifting it up is remove the harmonic balancer with your impact wrench. This is why:'s more difficult because the HB would keep hanging up on the chassis rail. Lower the powertrain in carefully, making sure to watch these things (off the top of my head, it's been a few days):

- heater hoses
- throttle cables from cruise control and firewall
- A/C lines
- A/C compressor, as the engine could push it into the condenser and damage that (in fact, put a layer of cardboard for some minimal protection)
- front mount, as it could do the same thing to the condenser want to line up the front and rear mounts with their respective holes; the rear mount has studs that'll drop in, then you can line up the front mount and thread in its 14mm bolts to secure its position:

Don't release the sling from the engine yet, you will need to lift it up and/or down a bit to line up the transmission mount with the transmission and thread in the four 14mm bolts:

Here's the rear mount positioned:

...all this is easier with the aid of a friend. Thread on the three 14mm nuts to secure the rear mount:

...and then you can remove the sling from the engine:

Now, the FSM wants us to torque down the dogbone strut before the other mounts, so that's what we'll do. My old one was broken:

...actually, it broke because I did the first swap with a Harbor Freight engine hoist, which lost pressure overnight when I left it to get some sleep. The dogbone became the only thing holding up the engine and wasn't up to the task. You get what you pay for. Here's the new strut:


...all the bolts are 14mm. The two with large (tall) heads hold the bracket to the engine side bracket. The longer bolt with the captive washer holds the strut to the bracket, and the shorter flange bolt secures the strut to the chassis. All bolts are 47 ft-lbs, in this order: dogbone bracket-to-engine side bracket bolts, dogbone-to-chassis bolt, and finally, dogbone-to-bracket bolt.

Next up, torquing the front mount-to-subframe bolts. If your car is a J-VIN and you are using the J-VIN mount hardware, torque all three 14mm bolts to 59 ft-lbs. If you are using 4-VIN hardware, the silver bolt is 32 ft-lbs, green-head bolts are 49 ft-lbs.

Next, rear mount torquing. All three 14mm nuts, 49 ft-lbs. And finally, the four 14mm transmission mount-to-transmission bolts: 47 ft-lbs. If you can't get to a couple of them due to clearance issues with the subframe, just tighten them by feel with a box wrench.

Finally, there are hole plugs that should cover two of the rear mount holes:

...I'm missing one, I'll be salvaging it from my donor shell.

Oh yeah, almost forgot: reinstall the harmonic balancer and torque the bolt to spec (80 ft-lbs).

OK, next up, install the transmission control cable that comes from the shift lever. Clip it here to route properly:

Attach the bracket to the transmission case with the two 12mm bolts:

...11 ft-lbs. Next, secure the cable to the control lever with the 12mm nut:

...also 11 ft-lbs. Next up is the P/S pump. Now I forgot to reinstall the P/S pump bracket to the engine while it was out, so it's time to do that now. Here's the bracket with the upper pump mounting bolt pushed into its receptacle:'s held to the block by three 14mm bolts:

...let's say 47 ft-lbs for those.

Pull back the upper pivot bolt so you can line up the P/S pump with the bracket, then thread in the pivot bolt and the lower adjustment bolt: pics of this, but get the drive belt on the harmonic balancer and the P/S pump, then tension it by prying (with at least a 2-foot prybar) between the adjustment bracket and the block. Then, tighten the adjustment bolt so that it doesn't move, and measure tension if you are so inclined and have a belt tension gauge. Spec is 80 +- 20 lbs. Then, torque both the adjustment bolt and the pivot bolt (both 14mm) to 32 ft-lbs. You can get the adjustment bolt from the wheel well, and the pivot bolt from above:

Don't forget to plug the idle up switch back in:

...and that takes care of the steering. If you followed my P/S pump rebuild DIY as well, remember to refill the system with new ATF, and bleed once the engine's runnin'.

Next up is the A/C compressor. Three long 12mm bolts, secure it to the block:

...19 ft-lbs. Hook up the clutch connector: that pic, I have it routed to the right of the hard lines, but you want it to the left as you'll want to clamp those wires to the lower radiator hose.

Now for the drive axles. I have two OE driver-side axles here:

...both will work on my car, as it doesn't have ABS. The unit with the tone ring came from the donor, which does have ABS. You want to lube up the inner splines with ATF, then insert it square into the diff. The OE axles have a nice flange to hammer against; place a prybar against the top flange (rotate axle if necessary):

...hammer on the end of the prybar until the axle seats. As you hammer on the top flange, it counteracts gravity and brings the axle square with the diff splines, so it'll go in easier than if you were hammering on a flange in any other position. Whoa, you notice that the awning has a cutout to accommodate the prybar?

The passenger axle is easier, as there are no splines holding it in the diff. Lube up the bearing carrier at the rear mount bracket with penetrating oil. Also lube up the intermediate shaft support bearing on the axle, and make sure the snap ring is around the axle beyond the inner tulip. Then, just slide the axle in. Make sure the splines enter the diff fully, and the bearing is seated fully in the carrier.

You'll want a pair of long needlenose pliers to install the snap ring:

...use your other hand to get the snap ring into the groove before releasing it (watch your fingers!). Don't half-ass this, as the axle will walk out if you don't install the snap ring correctly and it springs off. Here it is installed correctly:

Finally, you should still have the bearing lock bolt and the little rubber nugget that goes on the end (which you should have extracted from the rear mount bracket):

...that little nub goes into the hole on the end of the bolt: NOT substitute any old 14mm bolt that pushes against the intermediate shaft bearing. That's how you bend the bearing race and get rhythmic vibration issues as the axle would be out of balance (encountered that on my Barn Find #2 ES300). Torque the bolt to 24 ft-lbs.

OK, now to hook up all the various wiring stuffs. Feed the engine wiring harness through the firewall:

...install the grommet properly, and make sure the arrow is pointing upward BEFORE you start seating the grommet, to end up with this:

...if you twist the grommet after it's in, you twist the wiring, and risk tearing the grommet. Oh, and install the DLC1 to its bracket on the fender apron, along with the harness to the second bracket slightly below that:

Here's how the wiring harness hooks up to the ECU and distro block:

Time to hook up the alternator. Make sure the wiring harness clamp clicks onto the bracket coming off the alternator, then hook up the two connectors:

...note the diode pack connector (says "PUSH"), push that in 'til it clicks. And let's say 69 in-lbs for the 10mm nut holding the positive cable. Dig up the protective cap and clip it on:

Now to the other side. Clip the plastic harness bracket on:

...and plug in the starter solenoid:

And hook up the battery positive connection to the back of the starter:

...14mm nut, 27 ft-lbs.

Next up, connect the MAP sensor to the harness:

...note that the clamp for it is broken, common at this age. Doesn't do much anyway other than make it look slightly cleaner. Hook up the MAP to the gas filter:

Next, hook up the grounds at the right fender apron:

...mating connectors to make your life easy. If you took off the grounds to clean them at the fender apron, torque the 10mm bolt to 82 in-lbs.

short-throw dipstick
5,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Powertrain reinstallation. Continued.

On the left side, make sure the ground straps are routed below the little hose section:

Hook them up to the fender apron:

...the grounds are loose, but can't rest on anything:

...also clip the harness to the fuel filter bracket where I'm pointing.

Next up, hook up the negative battery cable (if you took it off). My middle finger is pointing to the 10mm bolt at the battery tray:

...torque that to 82 in-lbs, and note how it's routed under the harness. Also note how the larger cable is routed through the holder on the plastic bracket, then trails off toward the transmission. That's hooked up here with a 12mm bolt:

...let's say 19 ft-lbs. Next up, hook up the heater hoses and move their spring clamps into position:

And hook the brake booster vacuum hose to the nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold:

...don't forget to move the clamp into position.

Install the fuel inlet hose (only one line, this is a returnless system) to the fuel filter using the 17mm banjo bolt and two new washers/gaskets: washer on each side of the banjo fitting, then the bolt goes through to the fuel filter. 21 ft-lbs.

OK, exhaust hookup time. I never removed the exhaust midpipe (Toyota calls it the front exhaust pipe) on this car, so it's already hooked up to the rear/muffler pipe. First thing is to install the exhaust support bracket, this doohickey right here:

It goes on the bracket by the oil pan, and make sure the tab is in the slot:

...use a new 12mm OE oval'd locknut, torque to 24 ft-lbs.

Get the midpipe flange over the studs coming out the manifold (make sure you removed the old flange gasket and laid a new one!):

...and install three new 14mm OE split-lock nuts:

...46 ft-lbs. Move a bit farther back and install the support/isolator bracket:

...torque both 12mm bolts to 24 ft-lbs. And finally, the support stay that works with the first support bracket you installed:

...two new 12mm bolts. Install, and torque to 24 ft-lbs:

...and that's the exhaust, done. Now to install the alternator/compressor belt. Loop it over the stuff, then start tightening the adjustment bolt:

...spec is 130 +- 10 lbs. Once you reach that, torque the 12mm adjusting lock bolt to 13 ft-lbs, and the 14mm alternator pivot bolt to 38 ft-lbs.

Now this is where I started doing my transmission cooler/filter install, but I'll save that for the last section so we can continue with powertrain installation. Next up, we'll reverse what we did to hook up the front suspension.

I like to put copper antiseize on the outer splines of the CV axles:

Cup-brush the knuckles:

...before installing the knuckle to the strut, slip the axle through the hub and make sure the splines mate. You want the axle's protection ring to be right up against the dust shield on the hub, or as close as you can get it:

...get it as far as you can because the axle nut will pull it the ret of the way. Install the knuckles to the struts using the 22mm bolts and nuts:

...note how I put the nuts toward the back of the car (this is the passenger side). Most impact wrenches I've used can easily fit on that side, and there's no interference from the brake hose or caliper. Counterhold the bolts while torquing the nuts to 156 ft-lbs, then secure the brake hose to the strut (and ABS sensor wire, if so equipped) with the 12mm bolt, torque to 22 ft-lbs.

Next up, thread the 30mm axle nut (aftermarket is sometimes 32mm) onto the axle:'ll need to hold the brakes somehow to torque it properly. A dummy (brake pedal depressor) works, but a dummy with a heartbeat (tell your friend I called him/her a dummy) *should* be foolproof. Note: while most brake pedal depressors can be used as throttle pedal depressors, throttle pedal depressors are not good for what you're doing here. They are usually far flimsier and may bend or break when you try them on the brake pedal.

Anyway, have whatever dummy stand on the brakes, while you torque it to 217 ft-lbs. To finish this off, stick the lock ring back on with a cotter pin:

...may want to get new ones, but I usually reuse them if they're not all rusted to hell or feeling soft from fatigue.

Alright, we're coming up on the close. I primed and installed the new oil filter:

...again, this is a Denso 1MZ filter. I'll update once I figure out how to fit an even larger filter.

If you installed a Fumoto valve, make sure it's closed, then fill the engine with oil:

...if you did all the oil sealing work, might as well take this opportunity to start the engine fresh with full synthetic. My goal is 10K-mile oil changes, so I definitely will: using Valvoline full synthetic 5W-30 here. Official capacity is 3.8 quarts, I put in 3.9 (the larger filter is barely larger). After filling, stick the cap back on.

Now, if you installed the NPT takeoff to accommodate the temp sender and are using the Derale unit like me, you'll need an adapter to make that work. I only found one, a 2.5"-long 1.8" NPT standoff made by a medical gas fitting company:

...hard to see in the following pic, but it's deep enough to accommodate the temp sender:

Sender's this deep: it'll fit in the standoff:

...I should've shown this, but the standoff can do about 3/8" more than the temp sender. Here's the whole thing installed:

...shows off my inconsistency in pipe thread sealing methods, lol. It's just a plug for that hole until I get time to run wiring for the gauges. I angled the NPT takeoff so that the standoff would be angled slightly upward, helping bleed air from the channel.

Next up, put the wheels on the front. I swapped on the alloys from the donor car, and since they had them on it with wildly-mismatched lugnuts, I bought 20 new ones. I decided to use these PTC ones:

...they're a decent replica of stock lugs. I used Dormans the last time and they rusted easily, so hopefully these aren't the same ones. Torque them all to 76 ft-lbs, but don't lower the car off the jackstands just yet.

Oh, one weirdo thing: I got a new two-wire clamp to populate the boss on the valve cover:

...spark plug wires, ducks-in-a-row, son.

Install the cruise control actuator to the pedestal using the three 10mm bolts:

...Let's say, 82 in-lbs. Don't forget to plug the cruise control actuator back in!

No pics of this, but go ahead and install the radiator. Torque on the 12mm retainer bolts is 9 ft-lbs. Also install and connect the fans (and the thermo fan switch stub harness connector), torque on all the 10mm retaining bolts is 69 in-lbs. If you're not installing a trans cooler, hook up the two lines from the trans to the radiator trans cooler now. Finally, run the overflow tank line:

...note the routing clip that holds it near where I'm pointing, and note the small spring clamps on either side.

Install the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing and lower radiator mouth, and clamp properly. You should have a clip that holds the A/C clutch wiring to the rad hose:

...NOTE: I strongly recommend testing your tstat for proper opening before buttoning everything up (on your stove, with temp probe and boiling water). I put in a brand-new OE Kuzeh and it turned out to be bad. Replaced it with an Aisin (reboxed Tama/NTCL).

Install the upper radiator hose:

...note how it bends, and that I transferred the rub protection sleeve onto my new Gates hose. Clamp the O2 sensor wiring to the hose:

Make sure the radiator drain petcock and all the block drains are closed, then fill up the system (this is why we left the car up on jackstands before). I'm using a spill-free funnel:

...which leaves little air to be bled out later. Once you see no more bubbles (squeeze the hoses to get air out of them), stick on your radiator cap and fill the overflow tank to the FULL line. Drop the car off the jackstands.

Now, go ahead and fill the transmission through the dipstick tube (make sure the trans drain plug and diff drain plug are tightened, 10mm hex bit socket, 36 ft-lbs). WARNING: if you are installing a trans cooler/filtration system and haven't hooked up the inlet and outlet tubes, do NOT fill at this juncture. Finish that first, AKA read my final section. Do NOT start up the engine with the transmission dry. Otherwise, dump in 2.6 quarts as per the manual for a drain-and-refill. You *will* need more, but that can wait.

Before we install the airbox and intake snorkel, we should fill the diff because you have the best access to the 17mm fill plug on the back of the transmission, from the top. No pics of this, but pump in ATF (yes, ATF, NOT diff oil) until it overflows, then put in the fill plugs with a new gasket. Should take about 1.7 quarts. NOTE: make sure the car is on level ground before doing this, or checking any fluid levels for that matter. That doesn't mean straight ground, that means LEVEL (as in, go get a cheap level from the hardware store and check against the rocker panel). Here's a pic of my torque wrench from the top:

...36 ft-lbs.

OK, next up, we partially route the transmission kickdown cable. First, make sure it's coming out in front of the NSS connector: routes like this into the clip on the dipstick tube:

Next, bolt down the airbox bottom with the three 10mm bolts through the isolator grommets:

...Let's say, 82 in-lbs. Note that mine has a crack in it, I went on a goose chase to get a replacement so it wouldn't rattle around. Install the air filter, then stick the upper half of the airbox with the snorkel on it and secure the airbox clips:

...tighten the 10mm bolts on the band clamps to secure the snorkel. Now to hook up the various vacuum hoses. First, this one with the EVAP test port inline: