Toyota Nation Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Look in sig
Joined
·
9,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I recently got a new set of keys for my 1998 Camry J-VIN. When I got this car, The previous owner had two sets of generic keys and
a set of the aftermarket alarm/keyless entry. Since then, I've been on a mission to getting the car as close as OEM when it comes to keys and keyless entry.

Since the aftermarket alarm/keyless entry didn't work great and the remotes were flaky, I ripped out the aftermarket alarm and installed a dealer installed RS3200 from a junkyard Camry. The 1997-1999 Camry came only as an option to install the RS3000, but I was able to get most of the install carried into the earlier Gen4...except for the piezo buzzer. The RS3200 came from a 4-vin CE trim Camry 4-Vin.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...urity-system-rs3200-installed-1998-camry.html

After getting the 'factory' remote and keyless entry to work, the generic key I had was driving me nuts. I had to match my other Toyota keys I had! No more generic key!!!

After spending some time around my 1987 Cressida, it appears these older Toyotas have the key code stamped/engraved onto the passenger door lock cylinder. Chances are, you probably don't have the key code anymore. They usually came on a key plate attached to the set of keys.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/5...-door-panel-removal-lock-removal-keycode.html

Providing your car has all original lock cylinders, the key code on the passenger side should allow a lock smith to cut the factory keys providing they have the abilities of cutting factory keys based off the code on the passenger lock. I am unsure if any other lock cylinder (i.e. driver, ignition, trunk) will have this code.

I talked to a few lock smiths here and only one had the ability to cut the keys for my 1987 Cressida and my 1998 Camry via key code. It is also probably best to drive the car to the lock smith OR provide with the keycode the lock cylinder so they can test after they cut the keys.

Thank you for Roman (@ToyotaOfCoolSprings) for helping me find the right keys.
Use this guide at your own risk. I nor TN assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
So for the Gen4 without the engine immobilizer, these should be the part numbers. I am UNSURE what the part number is for the cars with the engine immobilizer. I believe only the later years of the Gen4 (00-01) may have this (EDIT: Camrys with the security light on the gauge cluster indicates the immobilized, which is usually reserved for the XLE trim), usually on the XLE trim models. One way to tell if your key is an immobilizer key is that there should be a 'DOT' on the base of the key on one of the sides. This will indicate that the key has a chip. Also, the key handle is pretty thick.

Below is the set of keys for my three Camrys with keyless entry. Do you see the dot?


So I ended up buying two keys. One which is just metal and another one with the hard plastic grip.




Either key should work with your Gen4 (Gen4.5, minus engine immobilizer equip ones).

P/N: 90999-00185 and 90999-00186
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Use this guide at your own risk. I nor TN assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.
First off, you'll need a set of basic tools and a small set of blades. Ones used in a small electronic set should be fine.

EDIT 05/07/2018: when doing my friends 1997 Camry, the 1997 has an additional screw holding the passenger front door to the door. Above the power window and lock panel, the arm piece goes upwards to the glass. There’s a Philip screw underneath the hole.


This should be where all the fasteners and screws that you would need to remove.


First off, remove the push pin. Push in the center and remove the pin and housing. People tend to forget this and break this off when removing the door panel. This part isn't critical but it keeps this part of the door flushed with the door panel.


Un-cap this hidden screw. Unscrew the screw.


Un-cap the cover. Unscrew the screw


Once the door handle bezel screw is removed, you'll need to pry the cover off. While lightly tugging on the bezel from the top and bottom, use a small blade to 'unclip' the bezel.




You can see where the door handle bezel clips. This isn't as difficult as the ones in the Gen3, man, those are tough!


Next is for the power window switch. There's a large metal clip. Push this in and tug the panel upwards. This can be fairly difficult.


Disconnect the two harness.


Now there is three holes, but only two of them has screws. Lets do the larger one first.


Theres a large Philips behind there. Not pictured, the other screw in the center. It's the one right in the middle of the above picture. There should NOT be any screws in the left one above the speaker.


Remove the two black philips screws


Now the tweeter panel. Models without tweeters would be the same.



Note where the push pin lock is located and the clip. This part can be difficult.


Once all that is removed, it is time to start removing the panel. Run your hands around the lower part of the door while giving it a slight tug. You'll hear the push clips release. You may break a few, so have a few on hand.



Tug the lower part of the panel outwards to you while swing it towards you. Once that occurs, just tug upwards. There is a lip on the top part that hangs on the inner door panel. Most times when people reassemble, this lip isn't completely on the door panel and your inner rubber door seal won't align up right.


A shot with the door panel removed. Circled in yellow are the clips/screws that was holding the door panel on. Forgot to circle the two middle screws nor the door handle bezel though.


This part you don't need to remove, but for me I had to. Remove the metal plate. It's held by three philips


Peal back your weather strip panel to expose the lock/behind the door


There are three bolts holding the handle in place. One bolt holds the lock cylinder in place. The ideal was to remove the entire lock cylinder but I ran into issues.


First remove the first bolt as noted in the circle


Then remove the other two. You will need to poke a hole in this service hole to remove one of them.



Two of the bolts. One holding the handle in place and the other one is for the lock. Since the window rail was in the way, I removed two more nuts/bolt. One of the nuts you will have to move the window rail around after you remove the two bolts/nuts holding it in. The other one holding the lock cylinder I had to use an open wrench to loosen it up




I was able to 'un snap' the clip but I couldn't pull the rod out. Rather than risking breaking the door handles (PITA), I was able to pop off the door handle off the door panel to expose enough of the lock cylinder.




The key code was obvious. It was a 5 digit numeric number. I blurred it out for security purposes but it should be there!





Reinstall in reverse order!

Use this guide at your own risk. I nor TN assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,716 Posts
Very nice! Added to the sticky.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kingdom934

·
Registered
Look in sig
Joined
·
9,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh, my! That looks like one very lucky car!
lol. For what it is worth, the car has been lucky to had a great first owner. The first owner had everything in terms of paperwork for the car. When he sold the car to me, he was glad it was going to someone who could appreciate this car.

It's interesting, most people wouldn't turn a second eye on this vanilla transportation as most people would do this to their sport coupe or what. For me, I take care of my camry as if it was some sport coupe haha!
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top