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Premium Member
2002 Camry
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450 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.

Disclaimer
Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received.

Time Required
It took me 3 1/2 hours from start to finish, including the time to take photos and make notes. If I had to do it again, I think I could cut this down to 2 hours or less.

Tools Required:
#2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.

Cost:
In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a “Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry” would work. They sell for about $72 on Amazon.com.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SNTJS0/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive[/ame]

Let’s Get Started!





1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screw driver.





2. Remove ash tray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Philips screw.






3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Philips screw.






4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.





5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.





6. Remove #2 Philips screw (red arrow).




7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.






8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your finger tips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door. For refernce, the location of the snaps are shown above, circled in red.





9. Lift the door panel upward to unhoook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.









10. Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide oput of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside.

Caution! The white lock cable is located on the top. The green door latch cable is located on the bottom. DO NOT reverse the order of these when you re-assemble the door. If you do this and close the door with them, you will not be able to open the door!





11. Gently pull the plastic rain shield away from the door, being careful not to stretch or tear the plastic. If you do this when the door is warm, it comes off pretty easy. If the door is cold, I find it helpful to use a scraper.





12. Remove the plug that supplies power to the powder window motor.





13. Temporarily plug the window switch back into the wiring harness. Push the test leads of the voltmeter into the powder window motor receptacle.





14. Push the window switch down. You should see if + or - 12 VDC on your meter. In this case the meter reads -11.98 VDC.






15. Pull the window switch up. You should see if the voltage change polarity from + to – or vice versa. In this case the meter reads +11.98 VDC. This means that the window switch is working correctly. Repeat the test with the remote switch located on the driver side front door. In my case the remote switch worked fine too.






16. Connect a set of jumper cables to the battery and run them to the back door. Connect a set of heavy gauge test leads to the jumper cables.

CAUTION! DO NOT allow the jumper cables to contact each other! Doing so will short out the battery and may cause severe injury to you and damage to the vehicle. Ensure that the jumper cables and test leads are physically separated before connecting the jumper cables to your battery. If necessary get an assistant to help you.







17. Locate the two brass pins at the power window connector. Connect a heavy gauge test lead (with alligator clip) to one of the brass pins.






18. Momentarily touch the other test lead (red) to the second brass pin inside the motor connector. The motor should either move up or down. If the window is already fully up or fully down, it is possible that the window may not move at all. In my case, there was a small spark when I touched the red test lead to the pin and the window did not move.

CAUTION! DO NOT allow the test leads to contact each other! Doing so will short out the battery and may cause severe injury to you and damage to the vehicle.



19. Reverse the test leads. The window should move in the opposite direction as it did in step 18. In my case, I got a small spark and the window did not move. Not good! I suspected that the motor was toast.






20.Remove the four bolts (circled in red) securing the window regulator assembly with a 10 mm socket.





21. Pull the regulator assembly down and out of the door cavity. Make a mental note of the orientation of the window regulator so you know how to put it back in.





22. Temporarily connect the motor and the door switch to the wiring harnesses. Being careful to keep fingers out of the mechanism, try operating the motor in both directions by activating the switch “up” and “down”. In my case the motor worked in both directions! I was ecstatic that I did not have to by a new regulator assembly.

I am not sure why my motor did not work when inside the door, but did work when taken out of the door. The window definitely was not seized, because it slowly dropped down by gravity after I pulled the regulator assembly from the door. I suspect that square slider on the regulator linkage may have jumped out of the track on the bottom of the window and then somehow got jammed inside the door. But I am really not sure what happened.







23. Move the regualtor assembly to the lowest position by pushing and holding the window switch “down” until the motor stops moving. Pull the window down to the lowest position.








24. Insert the window regulator assembly into the door cavity such that the white, square plastic slider block fits into the track on the bottom of the window.







25. Lift the window regulator up into position such that the rubber bushing on the electrical connector aligns with the hole in the sheet metal door panel and the bolt holes are in alignment. Install and tighten the four bolts securing the window regulator to the door.






26. Test the motor by pushing the window local and remote switches up and down. In my case, it worked perfectly. I was very happy about this.







27.Re-assemble the door. The procedure is essentially the reverse of the above steps. Use your fist to “pound” the door panel back into place, engaging the 9 snaps.

Caution! When inserting the cables back into the mechanism, remember that the the white lock cable is located on the top. The green door latch cable is located on the bottom. DO NOT reverse the order of these when you re-assemble the door. If you do this and close the door with them, you will not be able to open the door!








28. To install the above door trim piece, angle the fron in and push the rear down to snap it into place.








29. To install this anchor, pull the center pin out, insert the anchor into the hole and then push the center pin in.


30. Congratulations! You have just fixed your power window!
 

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Top TN contributor
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3,480 Posts
Great work...and I'm not just saying that because MY rear/left window has died too...well, I'm not sure what exactly had died, but it seems that it's the motor since, when it does work, the regulator moves the window up nice and smoothly...WHEN it DECIDES to work...sometimes there's power there, and sometimes there isn't...the last time it barely got the window UP...better than it being stuck down...

Again thanks for the great set of pix...
 

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Surprisingly this is what I did the first time my rear passenger window decided not to work and then it magically worked again. Now it's decided it won't work and I haven't spent the time to take the door apart again since school is starting.

One tip I would recommend is to tape the window to the door frame so there's less of a chance the window will fall down when you take the regulator out.
 

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Top TN contributor
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Surprisingly this is what I did the first time my rear passenger window decided not to work and then it magically worked again. Now it's decided it won't work and I haven't spent the time to take the door apart again since school is starting.

One tip I would recommend is to tape the window to the door frame so there's less of a chance the window will fall down when you take the regulator out.
I'm thinking in MY case it's the motor and NOT the regulator.....
BTW...When it 1st stopped I had switched the fuses with another window and it began to work again for a month before NOT working...I may just buy a new set of fuses for all of the them BEFORE taking on that window...it shouldn't make a difference...but for the time and $ it's a cheap next step.
 

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Premium Member
2002 Camry
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450 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Surprisingly this is what I did the first time my rear passenger window decided not to work and then it magically worked again. Now it's decided it won't work and I haven't spent the time to take the door apart again since school is starting.
On my 1996 Camry, the insulation on the wires inside the rubber boot that flexes each time you open and close the door cracked. Eventually the wires broke and the windows, one by one stopped working. I cut out a 12" section of each of the wires, soldered in a new piece of wire and placed heat shrink tubing over the solder joints. Over a course of about two years, I had to do this for all four windows. It was a time consuming to repair, but no major cost.

This is what I was fully expecting this time around. On my 1996 Camry, the window just stopped working. It was not intermittent. If my 2002 Camry acts up again, this is what I will be checking.

Please keep us posted if you determine the cause on your intermittent window. After reading your post, I suspect that I may have the same problem.
 

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My 09 drivers side window will not roll down without help. It will roll up just fine. It started a couple years ago as a once in a great while thing, now it is every time. I ordered a complete assembly only to find out that it I clicked the wrong one and it does not have the motor or regulator just the scissor lift bits. It only tries to go down for just that little bit and then the motor stops. I can then push down on the window after it stops in its attempt and it will move about a half inch or so. My question for you fellows is does this sound like a motor and regulator problem or do you think it could be a worn out track or something. I now need to send back the part I have and want to make sure I order the right part this time. I am assuming there is a part of the drive mechanism that has some plastic teeth that could be stripping? I can test the motor but it is working at least partly, it has no trouble ever going up.I think something is out of alignment or worn out. It seems from your pictures that the window just sits in a groove and goes down with gravity as the only force is this correct? Maybe I can get lucky and just lube it as you did.
 

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2002 Camry
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450 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The fact that the motor is working in both directions, confirms that you have power in both directions, so it rules out a break in the electrical circuit or an issue with the switch.

If you had a weak motor, I would expect the motor to be weak in both directions, not just one direction. If the motor was weak, I would also expect the window to go down easier than back up. In your case it is the exact opposite - which is a bit puzzling to me.

My best guess is that is that it might be something in the mechanism, but I also struggle to see how the mechanism would be stiff in the downward direction, but not in the upward direction.

If your time is free and you like experimenting, take the regulator assembly out and lube the mechanism and slide block to see if it helps. Manually raise and lower the window with your hand to confirm no binding is occurring. If you don't want to experiment, then just buy a new aftermarket regulator assembly on Amazon for $78 and be done with it.

Just to qualify, I am only a DIYer trying to help, so please take my advice with a grain of salt. Hopefully others who have more experience than I will chime in with their recommendations.
 

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Well after an hour or so of calling around I have come to the conclusion that it is the gear in the motor. Unfortunately that amazon part does not fit the gen 6 Camry's so I had to order one. The price range on them is consistent at most parts houses with Autozone's house brand being the cheapest and Toyota's stock part being the most expensive -- by almost %400!! Needless to say I ordered the cheap Autozone version. It is a new part and therefore has no core charge. I plan on disassemble the old one if its possible. I am hoping I can find a source for the gear inside so if that is indeed the trouble I can rebuild it.
 

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Hey all, new to this forum, but not to forums overall. Need some help please!

I am having issues with both rear windows not working. Just started working on the driver rear. I performed this test:

I removed the plug that supplies power to the power window motor. Put the voltmeter leads in. Pulled the rear window switch up/down and both gave me an 11.XX volt reading. I left the leads in and tried up/down on the rear window switch on the driver panel. Again both gave me an 11.XX volt reading.

I then attached a car battery to test leads to the brass pins inside the motor connector. The window goes up and down.

What the crap is going on? The motor works with the battery and the proper volts are going to the motor. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Top TN contributor
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Hey all, new to this forum, but not to forums overall. Need some help please!

I am having issues with both rear windows not working. Just started working on the driver rear. I performed this test:

I removed the plug that supplies power to the power window motor. Put the voltmeter leads in. Pulled the rear window switch up/down and both gave me an 11.XX volt reading. I left the leads in and tried up/down on the rear window switch on the driver panel. Again both gave me an 11.XX volt reading.

I then attached a car battery to test leads to the brass pins inside the motor connector. The window goes up and down.

What the crap is going on? The motor works with the battery and the proper volts are going to the motor. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Mark
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/819970-wind-noise-windows-regulator-adjustment.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/900097-stuck-window-regulator-motor-switch.html
 

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So they don't go up or down with either switch in the front or on that specific window? Sounds like a broken wire between the switch and motor? Can you do a continuity test between them?
Thanks HeartDisease:

You are correct. The window does not work with either switch. BUT I am getting voltage at the plug that supplies power to the power window motor when I flip all switches (one at a time of course). If there was a break in the wire then wouldn't I get no voltage at the plug?

What is a continuity test?:grin:


Thanks Kita:

Wind noise windows regulator adjustment

Stuck window: regulator, motor, switch?


I don't think those help my issue as the window works just fine up/down when hooked directly to the battery. Altough I should still silicone it up once the panel is off.
 

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Thing is the window works just fine when I connect the battery straight to it.
I think that MIGHT be because power direct from the battery could be greater than going through the switching mechanism...with enuf power to break the seals...
...just thinkin'...
 

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Negative, I removed the regulator and even disconnected the motor and plugged it in and tried.

It can't be a fuse because it is getting voltage, right?
 

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Premium Member
2002 Camry
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450 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
- Window goes up and down with direct power from battery - that means the motor is good.
- 12VDC at the window plug with both switches - that means the fuse and switches are good.
- At first, I thought maybe a flaky electrical connection at the motor plug, but the liklihood of that occurring for two motors at the same time is next to impossible.
- If both rear windows went out at the same time, it sounds more like an issue in the front driver switch module.
- 11.xx volts sounds a little low - could there be a voltage drop somewhere in the front switch module when the motor tries to draw current.
- Can you rig up two wires, strip them in the middle, and connect your voltmeter across the wires while the window is going up and down to see if the voltage drops off when the switch is pressed. If it does, my guess is there is either a loose connection in the front window module or flaky module itself.
- Open up the front door panel and reset all plugs to the module?
- Very interesting problem - I have not seen this before - not an easy one to troubleshoot. You have tried all of the things I would have tired.
- Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Thanks DZ63,

I HAVE GOOD NEWS!

I went back to the drawing board. I figured if we have power to the plug, and the motor itself works it had to be something in between. Only thing in between is the plug itself. Bad connection between plug and motor. Pried the male portion of the plug so the conection would be tighter and voila!


Then I went to the other rear window. It is getting power and it seems to be the motor. Anyone know the cheapest place to get one?

Thanks,
Mark
 
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