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After buying my Tundra, I was disappointed that a $30k+ truck didn’t come standard with fogs, and I absolutely loath the blank plugs they put in place. This is the DIY install for OEM fogs. Note that this is for the chrome bumper, not the painted one. The painted bumper requires different fog housing (noted in the parts needed below) and may look different behind the bumper than this install, though the switch install will be the same.
And the disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable to perform this modification, consult your dealer for install. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after installation.
NOTE: It is wise to give whoever you order from, your VIN to ensure that you get the right part. There are a few parts that are trim specific (SR5 or Limited).
Tools needed:
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19mm socket w/ breaker bar (or muscle in your arms!)
T-30 Hex
¼” socket w/ wrench (to help with the T-30 Hex)
Long but thin flat head screwdriver
Small, thin head flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Needle nose pliers (excuse my electrical cutter/pliers)
Optional Paint Marker (will make aligning the steering wheel a lot easier!)
6-pack of very good beer!
Parts you will need:
(#) indicates the quantity you need to order
(1) 84140-0C060 SWITCH ASSEMBLY: HEADLAMPS w/ Fog
(2) 81210-AA030 FOG ASSEMBLY (should come with the bulb)
(1) 52126-0C020 FOG BRACKET RIGHT (Chrome bumper)
(1) 52125-0C020 FOG BRACKET LEFT (Chrome bumper)
(1) 90080-87026 RELAY: FOG LIGHTS
(2) Push pins from Lowes, HD, Menards, or an auto parts store (they will be used to secure the housings to the bumper, per Toyota install. ONLY NEEDED FOR CHROME BUMPERS!)
If you have the painted bumper, you need 52125-0C030 and 52126-0C030 in place of the chrome bracket P/N’s shown above. I got my parts from Mossy Toyota (www.toyotapartscheap.com) for $478. You may be able to get them cheaper by calling Champion Toyota of Houston, but you may need to register as a TundraSolutions member to get the 25% discount.:thumbdown:
Fuse install:
Open up the hood of the Tundra and get to the fuse panel behind the battery. Open it up and look at the cover. If you look, the far right side shows where you will place the blue relay. I’ve also indicated where it’ll be where my finger is pointing:
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Fog light install:
First thing you will need to do is remove the blanks. Use a long but thin flat head screwdriver and insert it where the arrow it showing (9 o'clock on the driver's side, 3 o'clock on the passenger's). There is a small protrusion at those locations that snaps into the bumper on the inside. There are two other larger protrusions that lock into the bumper on the opposite side.
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Now place the fog light into the black plastic housing. You will see how the housing is supposed to be inserted. When installing the fog light into the housing, make sure that the alignment screw will be on the bottom when placing it into the bumper (I think it’s the only way it’ll fit, too). It should snap into place.
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Next, remove the 2 Phillips screws shown below. FYI, all of these pictures are on the driver side. The passenger side is identical.
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This is the compound step: When you remove the screws, pull back on the now loose plastic panel, but take care not to break it…you only need enough room to pull the wire harness down and secure the fog housing. I circled in yellow where the harness will be located…it’s taped up there, but the tape easily breaks, so you shouldn’t have a problem getting it down. You’ll see the connector for the fog lamp; plug it in. Using one of the pushpins you have, secure the housing to the bumper as shown by the red arrow in the photo. This picture shows what it should look like when the fog install is complete.
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Switch install:
This part right here is not your friend. Toyota has to be difficult and make it so you can easily install a wiper switch, but the turn signal stalk is a bitch to get to. Read on…
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First thing you need to do is start your truck up and turn the wheel so you can access the screws on the column shown here. You could also skip to the steering wheel removal first, then proceed to get these…when you get these two screws out, straighten your wheels and make sure your wheel is as straight as you can get it. It'll make it easier when you put the wheel back on.
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The next thing you need to do (or do this first if you skip step one) is to remove the power from the truck. I disconnected the battery at the negative terminal. It’s held on with a 12mm nut. Simply unscrew and place the connector to the side.
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Next we will remove the side steering wheel covers. Use your small headed flat head to remove these. Insert the head closes to the airbag and apply light pressure while moving the cover back towards the column.
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Then you can see the T-30 Hex screws. There is one on each side. These were kinda of tight, but I was easily able to get them out by putting the T-30 into a ¼ socket and using the wrench for leverage. Removing these will remove the airbag.
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Once the airbag is pulled back, you will see the following. You will need to disconnect the airbag connectors by using your small screwdriver and prying up (carefully!) on the yellow tabs; then just pull them out. You will need to remove the ground as well. Make sure you disconnect the cruise control stalk wiring too, as you will be pulling the whole steering wheel in a moment.
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Next, you will need your 19mm socket with breaker bar to get the nut loose. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey…You may need to hold onto the steering wheel while removing the nut…you don’t want to put too much pressure on the steering wheel lock.
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After the steering wheel nut is removed, you should use the paint marker to put a small vertical line on the top of the wheel, making sure that you can easily align the threads when you are done. This is something that I thought of afterwards, and it would've made my life easier. Now the steering wheel can simply be pulled off. You may need to wiggle it with some moderate force. Make sure to take care in pulling the wires through the top of the wheel. I’ll take this time to note that YOU MUST TAKE ABSOLUTE CARE NOT TO ROTATE THE SPINDAL…doing so will cause the VSC to thinking the wheel is turned and/or you can break the connectors. I recommend using tape to hold it into place, but make sure not to place the tape onto the barcode on top (I found out the hard way that it will rip it right off when you remove the tape).
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And the pile of stuff in the passenger seat:
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Take this time to remove the column shroud. You do this by pushing gently inwards; the top piece and bottom piece should separate. Be careful with the top piece, and you can pull the bottom piece out.
Now you will remove the steering spinal/wheel position sensor. Make sure all of the connectors going to the stalks and this are disconnected. Word of caution, the yellow connector is removed by using a flathead screwdriver and pushing the spring underneath towards the center console and pushing in that direction at the same time (you’ll know what I mean when you do it). You need to push the three connectors on the sensor to get it to come loose from the column (circled in red). Carefully place it to the side.
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Looking scary!:
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Now for one of the final parts…you need to remove the stalk assembly. You do this by using your needle nose pliers and punch the metal clamp. AT THE SAME TIME, you need to pull up the tab that is sticking straight up and pull the assembly towards you. It may be a little difficult to get loose. This is what it’ll look like when removed:
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Once this is out, you need to push on the wipe stalk tab (circled in red). This will allow the wiper stalk to slide out. Place the wiper stalk back into the new assembly.
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The two assemblies:
![]()
That’s pretty much it. You need to install in the reverse order to get it put back together. The new switch will have a red tab on it...don't mess with it until you have the unit back on the steering wheel...this will make your life much easier! Torque the wheel bolt to 35 ftlbs. Make sure when connecting the airbag back together you push the yellow clips in AFTER you have the connectors firmly seated in the panel.
The finished product!
![]()
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Now drink that 6-pack for this job being well done (or it should’ve been, anyways!)
And the disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable to perform this modification, consult your dealer for install. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after installation.
NOTE: It is wise to give whoever you order from, your VIN to ensure that you get the right part. There are a few parts that are trim specific (SR5 or Limited).
Tools needed:
19mm socket w/ breaker bar (or muscle in your arms!)
T-30 Hex
¼” socket w/ wrench (to help with the T-30 Hex)
Long but thin flat head screwdriver
Small, thin head flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Needle nose pliers (excuse my electrical cutter/pliers)
Optional Paint Marker (will make aligning the steering wheel a lot easier!)
6-pack of very good beer!
Parts you will need:
(#) indicates the quantity you need to order
(1) 84140-0C060 SWITCH ASSEMBLY: HEADLAMPS w/ Fog
(2) 81210-AA030 FOG ASSEMBLY (should come with the bulb)
(1) 52126-0C020 FOG BRACKET RIGHT (Chrome bumper)
(1) 52125-0C020 FOG BRACKET LEFT (Chrome bumper)
(1) 90080-87026 RELAY: FOG LIGHTS
(2) Push pins from Lowes, HD, Menards, or an auto parts store (they will be used to secure the housings to the bumper, per Toyota install. ONLY NEEDED FOR CHROME BUMPERS!)
If you have the painted bumper, you need 52125-0C030 and 52126-0C030 in place of the chrome bracket P/N’s shown above. I got my parts from Mossy Toyota (www.toyotapartscheap.com) for $478. You may be able to get them cheaper by calling Champion Toyota of Houston, but you may need to register as a TundraSolutions member to get the 25% discount.:thumbdown:
Fuse install:
Open up the hood of the Tundra and get to the fuse panel behind the battery. Open it up and look at the cover. If you look, the far right side shows where you will place the blue relay. I’ve also indicated where it’ll be where my finger is pointing:
Fog light install:
First thing you will need to do is remove the blanks. Use a long but thin flat head screwdriver and insert it where the arrow it showing (9 o'clock on the driver's side, 3 o'clock on the passenger's). There is a small protrusion at those locations that snaps into the bumper on the inside. There are two other larger protrusions that lock into the bumper on the opposite side.
Now place the fog light into the black plastic housing. You will see how the housing is supposed to be inserted. When installing the fog light into the housing, make sure that the alignment screw will be on the bottom when placing it into the bumper (I think it’s the only way it’ll fit, too). It should snap into place.
Next, remove the 2 Phillips screws shown below. FYI, all of these pictures are on the driver side. The passenger side is identical.
This is the compound step: When you remove the screws, pull back on the now loose plastic panel, but take care not to break it…you only need enough room to pull the wire harness down and secure the fog housing. I circled in yellow where the harness will be located…it’s taped up there, but the tape easily breaks, so you shouldn’t have a problem getting it down. You’ll see the connector for the fog lamp; plug it in. Using one of the pushpins you have, secure the housing to the bumper as shown by the red arrow in the photo. This picture shows what it should look like when the fog install is complete.
Switch install:
This part right here is not your friend. Toyota has to be difficult and make it so you can easily install a wiper switch, but the turn signal stalk is a bitch to get to. Read on…
First thing you need to do is start your truck up and turn the wheel so you can access the screws on the column shown here. You could also skip to the steering wheel removal first, then proceed to get these…when you get these two screws out, straighten your wheels and make sure your wheel is as straight as you can get it. It'll make it easier when you put the wheel back on.
The next thing you need to do (or do this first if you skip step one) is to remove the power from the truck. I disconnected the battery at the negative terminal. It’s held on with a 12mm nut. Simply unscrew and place the connector to the side.
Next we will remove the side steering wheel covers. Use your small headed flat head to remove these. Insert the head closes to the airbag and apply light pressure while moving the cover back towards the column.
Then you can see the T-30 Hex screws. There is one on each side. These were kinda of tight, but I was easily able to get them out by putting the T-30 into a ¼ socket and using the wrench for leverage. Removing these will remove the airbag.
Once the airbag is pulled back, you will see the following. You will need to disconnect the airbag connectors by using your small screwdriver and prying up (carefully!) on the yellow tabs; then just pull them out. You will need to remove the ground as well. Make sure you disconnect the cruise control stalk wiring too, as you will be pulling the whole steering wheel in a moment.
Next, you will need your 19mm socket with breaker bar to get the nut loose. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey…You may need to hold onto the steering wheel while removing the nut…you don’t want to put too much pressure on the steering wheel lock.
After the steering wheel nut is removed, you should use the paint marker to put a small vertical line on the top of the wheel, making sure that you can easily align the threads when you are done. This is something that I thought of afterwards, and it would've made my life easier. Now the steering wheel can simply be pulled off. You may need to wiggle it with some moderate force. Make sure to take care in pulling the wires through the top of the wheel. I’ll take this time to note that YOU MUST TAKE ABSOLUTE CARE NOT TO ROTATE THE SPINDAL…doing so will cause the VSC to thinking the wheel is turned and/or you can break the connectors. I recommend using tape to hold it into place, but make sure not to place the tape onto the barcode on top (I found out the hard way that it will rip it right off when you remove the tape).
And the pile of stuff in the passenger seat:
Take this time to remove the column shroud. You do this by pushing gently inwards; the top piece and bottom piece should separate. Be careful with the top piece, and you can pull the bottom piece out.
Now you will remove the steering spinal/wheel position sensor. Make sure all of the connectors going to the stalks and this are disconnected. Word of caution, the yellow connector is removed by using a flathead screwdriver and pushing the spring underneath towards the center console and pushing in that direction at the same time (you’ll know what I mean when you do it). You need to push the three connectors on the sensor to get it to come loose from the column (circled in red). Carefully place it to the side.
Looking scary!:
Now for one of the final parts…you need to remove the stalk assembly. You do this by using your needle nose pliers and punch the metal clamp. AT THE SAME TIME, you need to pull up the tab that is sticking straight up and pull the assembly towards you. It may be a little difficult to get loose. This is what it’ll look like when removed:
Once this is out, you need to push on the wipe stalk tab (circled in red). This will allow the wiper stalk to slide out. Place the wiper stalk back into the new assembly.
The two assemblies:
That’s pretty much it. You need to install in the reverse order to get it put back together. The new switch will have a red tab on it...don't mess with it until you have the unit back on the steering wheel...this will make your life much easier! Torque the wheel bolt to 35 ftlbs. Make sure when connecting the airbag back together you push the yellow clips in AFTER you have the connectors firmly seated in the panel.
The finished product!
Now drink that 6-pack for this job being well done (or it should’ve been, anyways!)
