DIY Oil Catch Can Installment Corolla 93 - 97

46873 Views 50 Replies 19 Participants Last post by Kegan clark, Jan 17, 2022

RinconRolla98

Discussion Starter · Feb 17, 2010

Oil Catch Can takes the oily air that normally comes from the crankcase ventilation (either by the valve cover or from the PCV valve) and send it through the tank so the oil gets trapped in a cleanable canister (the can) while the air gas re-routed to the intake. The catch can is not a reservoir or oil supply. The gunk that accumulates in it should be cleaned out and disposed of properly. Highly recommended on fuel injection cars mounted between the PCV and intake. Without a catch-can, all that oil/carbon gunk builds-up on the tips of the injectors and can cause pre-igntion (pinging) over time.

One of the main things is to find a open spot for the catch can . It can be placed any where you just have to purchase longer hoses .

The oil catch can comes with hoses but I highly recomend you use from the auto parts store they sell them by the inch . For this purpose I used a hose for show but later on I changed the hose to the black hose from my local auto parts store .

It is best to get a oil catch can that you can remove the top and not a fully sealed one . This makes it easier to clean and in this photo I added some steel wool to soak up the extra oil . ( The reason I put the steel wool is cause with it being empty the oil will splash around and possibly re-enter into the intake . )

Once you find your location then you screw the bracket tightly enough so that the catch can doesn't get loose or rattles . You can add meduim lock tight on the screws if you like .

You remove the the hose as shown in the blue arrows and you add a breather on the valve cover and in the intake you just cut a piece of hose and put a screw in it so that you seal it off . This keeps the heat from the crankcase entering your intake and releasing out of the breather . The green arrow shows the PCV where you will hook up your hose for your oil catch can and on the other side is the bottom of the intake .

Then you connect your hose having the one from the PCV enter the catch can and the other hose going directly to the bottom of the intake .

Then in the end it will look like this . This is a very simple modification . This in no way adds performance but it keeps the fuel and the oil from mixing as it enters your intake . Which gives you better gas mileage , long lasting injectors especially in older running cars .

For more DIY : http://rinconrolla98.blogspot.com

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Kiwi-Corolla

· #41 · Feb 3, 2011

SuperchargedMR2 said:
Very nice install, Kiwi. :thumbsup: I'll have to think about this for my various cars. Do you have a link to the OCC that you bought? What did it cost you?

Cheers Jim :thumbsup:. I paid $61 NZD ($47 USD) for it at a local big chain auto store, but you can get them cheaper on eBay US.

Here's some links to the same style catch can in the same colour (blue and chrome are also available) -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIV...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

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SuperchargedMR2

· #42 · Feb 3, 2011

Kiwi-Corolla said:
Cheers Jim :thumbsup:. I paid $61 NZD ($47 USD) for it at a local big chain auto store, but you can get them cheaper on eBay US.

Here's some links to the same style catch can in the same colour (blue and chrome are also available) -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIV...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

After that post I was looking on eBay & found the same ones too. :lol: I was confused though on the 2nd link since it showed several different listed that showed different letters to it like "D block", "E block", "A block" & "B block"????? What does that mean? Any idea? The pics all look the same. :facepalm:

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Kiwi-Corolla

· #43 · Feb 3, 2011

SuperchargedMR2 said:
After that post I was looking on eBay & found the same ones too. :lol: I was confused though on the 2nd link since it showed several different listed that showed different letters to it like "D block", "E block", "A block" & "B block"????? What does that mean? Any idea? The pics all look the same. :facepalm:

I'm not too sure what the different letters mean sorry. Perhaps it's so the seller can identify which auction was bid on or something. They certainly all look identical

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kickfli12

· #44 · Mar 6, 2011

i got mine in. i had to make my own bracket though.

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Bstylz

· #45 · Mar 5, 2012

does it matter which hose goes to which?
i just installed mine too

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OnTheRoadAgain

· #46 · Aug 29, 2019

Thanks for posting this guide!
I've installed it on my Corolla E10 Liftback GLI from '93.

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Kegan clark

· #47 · Dec 6, 2021

RinconRolla98 said:
Oil Catch Can takes the oily air that normally comes from the crankcase ventilation (either by the valve cover or from the PCV valve) and send it through the tank so the oil gets trapped in a cleanable canister (the can) while the air gas re-routed to the intake. The catch can is not a reservoir or oil supply. The gunk that accumulates in it should be cleaned out and disposed of properly. Highly recommended on fuel injection cars mounted between the PCV and intake. Without a catch-can, all that oil/carbon gunk builds-up on the tips of the injectors and can cause pre-igntion (pinging) over time.

One of the main things is to find a open spot for the catch can . It can be placed any where you just have to purchase longer hoses .

The oil catch can comes with hoses but I highly recomend you use from the auto parts store they sell them by the inch . For this purpose I used a hose for show but later on I changed the hose to the black hose from my local auto parts store .

It is best to get a oil catch can that you can remove the top and not a fully sealed one . This makes it easier to clean and in this photo I added some steel wool to soak up the extra oil . ( The reason I put the steel wool is cause with it being empty the oil will splash around and possibly re-enter into the intake . )

Once you find your location then you screw the bracket tightly enough so that the catch can doesn't get loose or rattles . You can add meduim lock tight on the screws if you like .

You remove the the hose as shown in the blue arrows and you add a breather on the valve cover and in the intake you just cut a piece of hose and put a screw in it so that you seal it off . This keeps the heat from the crankcase entering your intake and releasing out of the breather . The green arrow shows the PCV where you will hook up your hose for your oil catch can and on the other side is the bottom of the intake .

Then you connect your hose having the one from the PCV enter the catch can and the other hose going directly to the bottom of the intake .

Then in the end it will look like this . This is a very simple modification . This in no way adds performance but it keeps the fuel and the oil from mixing as it enters your intake . Which gives you better gas mileage , long lasting injectors especially in older running cars .

For more DIY : Corolla DIY

I'm looking into getting a catch can on my 1993 Corolla with the 1.6 4A-fe. I've been noticing blue smoke upon startup and heavy acceleration. (interment)
Its my first car and planning on keeping it for many years

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94RollaDad

· #48 · Dec 6, 2021

Kegan clark said:
I'm looking into getting a catch can on my 1993 Corolla with the 1.6 4A-fe. I've been noticing blue smoke upon startup and heavy acceleration. (interment)
Its my first car and planning on keeping it for many years

The blue smoke won't have anything to do with not having a catch can. It's much more likely due to worn valve stem seals. And if it were related to the PCV system (in which case it'd have to be a stuck open PCV valve) the proper fix would be to replace the PCV valve.

Of course feel free to also install a catch can if you must. Just don't expect it to fix the blue smoke.

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ganda1f

· #49 · Dec 6, 2021

94RollaDad said:
The blue smoke won't have anything to do with not having a catch can. It's much more likely due to worn valve stem seals.

+1 on that. Yours being a '93, those seals are hard as rock by now. And most likely have been for the last 10 years. I replaced mine some 10 years ago and there was nothing rubberish about them any more.

Kegan clark said:
Its my first car and planning on keeping it for many years

I do not mean to discourage you, but unless the car has been kept free from road salt all those years, it is unlikely the body and suspension will last much more than 25 years. Rust cancer knows no mercy. The engine and manual tranny may very well last way beyond that though if maintained properly.

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JacRyann

· #50 · Dec 14, 2021

94RollaDad said:
The blue smoke won't have anything to do with not having a catch can. It's much more likely due to worn valve stem seals. And if it were related to the PCV system (in which case it'd have to be a stuck open PCV valve) the proper fix would be to replace the PCV valve.

Of course feel free to also install a catch can if you must. Just don't expect it to fix the blue smoke.

ganda1f said:
+1 on that. Yours being a '93, those seals are hard as rock by now. And most likely have been for the last 10 years. I replaced mine some 10 years ago and there was nothing rubberish about them any more.

Yeah, catch-cans are sweep-it-under-rug type solutions after-the-fact. They don't solve actual cause of issue, which is ring blow-by or leaking valve-stem seals.

1. If you've got pressurised crankcase where ring blow-by pushes oil out every and any spot possible, sure adding a catch-can may help reduce amount of this oil re-entering engine. But... best to solve problem and not have pressurised crankcase to begin with. Replace those worn-out piston rings!!! Also having some vacuum in crankcase is beneficial, it lowers pumping losses as pistons going up and down don't have to push so much air around. Typically will increase power-output by +5-10%.

2. If you've got leaking valve-stem seals, none of that oil will be captured by catch-can. It will just go directly into cylinders and get burnt up and go out exhaust.

You can do some testing to determine if you've got case #1 or #2. Do compression-test to see how rings are sealing. If you've got low-compression, then yes, catch-can may be stop-gap measure until you've got chance to rebuild engine.

Also take apart intake-manifold and see how gunked up it is. Clean it out completely and check again after couple weeks. If it stays clean, then you don't have blow-by working oil around to intake. Then it's definitely #2 worn-out valve-stem seals. In which case, catch-can won't do anything. Again, real solution is to repair/replace worn-out parts to fix problems rather than adding gimmicks as cover-up quick-fix.

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Kegan clark

· #51 · Jan 17, 2022

ganda1f said:
+1 on that. Yours being a '93, those seals are hard as rock by now. And most likely have been for the last 10 years. I replaced mine some 10 years ago and there was nothing rubberish about them any more.

I do not mean to discourage you, but unless the car has been kept free from road salt all those years, it is unlikely the body and suspension will last much more than 25 years. Rust cancer knows no mercy. The engine and manual tranny may very well last way beyond that though if maintained properly.

Its all good. Its been in Florida all its life. With only 93k but still need the check seals

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