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Precision driver
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable, do not perform this maintenance by yourself. Contact your local dealership for service. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after this procedure.

The tools that you’ll need:


3/8” socket wrench
3” 3/8” extension
10 mm socket (or Phillips screwdriver)
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
65mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-YZZA4, or WIX Filter 57041. Note that the WIX filter does include two o-rings like the Toyota kit, but does not include the plastic filter drain "tool". If you don't know what I mean, read on.
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20*

*The manual does call for 7.5 quarts, but as you read, you'll see why I used only 7.



First thing you’ll need to do is remove the skid plate, if you have one. There are 3 screws (holes identified in yellow) that have Phillips ends, but you can use the 10 mm socket since it’ll be easier and there are 5 2” long bolts (identified by red) holding the skid up. Use your 12 mm socket with extension to get these loose. It’s probably better to remove the front 3 screws and work your way back as the bolts will help hold the skid up until you are ready to remove. I couldn’t get a picture of what to do to remove the skid, but once all bolts are out, you’ll need to push the whole skid up and slide it towards the driver side. Then release and it should come down. Be careful not to whack yourself in the head with the thing…it’s a little heavy.



Once you remove the skid, you’ll need to identify where the oil filter (in yellow) and bulk oil drain bolt (in red) are located. I’ve indicated them as pictured above.




You’ll need a 14 mm socket to loosen the oil drain bolt. I use it to break it loose, and then I unscrew it with my hand. Get ready for a mess! Make sure you have your oil pan more towards the passenger wheel as the oil will shoot that way. Take a break by drinking a beer or whatever; it’ll take some time for the 7 quarts of oil to drain. Once the oil is dripping out of the hole, hand tighten the bolt back into the hole, taking care not to cross-thread the bolt. Then use the 14 mm socket to tighten. Torque: 40 N·m (408 kgf·cm, 30 ft·lbf).




Use your 3/8” extension to loosen the oil filter drain bolt. Don’t worry; very little oil will come out when you remove the bolt. Above is what it’ll look like with the bolt removed. You will have to use that plastic “tool” that comes with the Toyota Oil Filter Kit to help drain the oil out of the filter area. I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with, even over my Mazda3GT. I had to push up (and hard!) to get the oil to come out. Even after pushing up and having the oil drain for 5 minutes I still didn’t get it all. It would have been a lot easier if the sway bar wasn’t so close to the filter location.



After you attempt to drain all the oil out of the filter, wipe the area off with a rag. Make sure you don’t damage the oil filter drain gasket if you plan on using it again (I did). Then using your 65mm 14 flute oil wrench and 3/8” extension, twist the cap off. Once you turn it a couple times you’ll be able to twist it by hand…be prepared for more oil! Drop the whole assembly into your oil pan as it’ll make it easier to clean your hand and the area around the oil filter assembly. Once you have the truck portion cleaned up, remove the old oil filter that remains on the lower assembly and replace it with the new one. They should just pull off and push on. If you plan to change the gasket, do it now. Twist the lower assembly that holds the filter on taking care not to cross-thread. Then use your oil filter wrench to twist it tight. Make sure to put your oil filter drain bolt back on (make sure the gasket it on the lower assembly, then put the bolt on). Oil Filter Drain Torque: 13 N·m (127 kgf·cm, 9 ft·lbf), Oil Filter Cap Torque: 25 N·m (255 kgf·cm, 18 ft·lbf). Once everything is tight, fill your engine up with the motor oil of your choice and check your oil level on the dipstick. I used 7 quarts and it put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the empty and fill portion of the dipstick, which is where I like it. Made it easier not to use half a quart too, but the manual does call for 7.5 quarts.



Start your engine after filling and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Make sure you oil pressure is in the operating range. Check for leaks.




You’ll need to put the skid back on now. It’s not as bad as everyone says it is. Above are the holes you’ll need to align the hooks of the skid with. Make sure to have the plastic tabs of the front bumper overlapping the skid, otherwise the skid won’t go back into place. Then using the reverse process of removal, hand install the rear bolts into the skid, working your way forward taking care not to cross-thread the bolts or screws. Take care not to over tighten the screws and strip the plastic. Bolt Torque: 29 N·m (296 kgf·cm, 21 ft·lbf), Screw Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in·lbf).



To reset your maintenance reminder system (even if the light hasn’t come on yet), you’ll need to turn your key to on (but don’t start!) and make sure your odometer is on TRIP A. Then key off. Press and hold the Odometer/Trip button. While holding down on the button, key the ignition to on (Don’t start the engine!) The display panel will count down from “------“ to “-“Continue pressing the button until the Trip A is displayed. After this step, you are done. Drink a couple beers for a job well done! :D As a notice, I don't condone drinking and driving;)



Since this was the first oil change, I didn't have a UOA done on it. I examined the filter and noticed very, very small shavings, but nothing that would restrict the flow.
 

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Precision driver
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Discussion Starter #4
I got mine at Wally World, but Advanced Auto, PepBoys, Autozone and the like have them too.
 

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Precision driver
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Discussion Starter #5
It comes with the oil filter kit that you'll need to get from Toyota. Also has 2 o-rings (one fore the oil filter drain and one for the lower portion of the cartridge (that seals the lower with the upper)...When you change it, you'll see what I'm talking about. Since I reused mine, I didn't point it out.
 

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The pictures and instruction on the first page are a huge help!:thumbup:

A few more questions from the student section...
  1. Are all the o-rings/gaskets needed for this in the Toyota kit?
  2. What does a dealer charge for the kit?
  3. If you forego draining the filter housing how much oil falls out when the cartridge is removed?
Thanks!...or as we say here in Miami, gracias!:smokin:

BTW, Ford (at least the 4.6L V8) also calls out 1/2 quart more than what initially takes to get on top of the dipstick line, which accounts for the oil filter. The filter won't be full and air-free until the engine is started, at which point the level on the dipstick will drop a little. Maybe that's why Toyota calls out 7.5 quarts instead of 7? :confused:
 

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Precision driver
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2,105 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The pictures and instruction on the first page are a huge help!:thumbup:

A few more questions from the student section...
  1. Are all the o-rings/gaskets needed for this in the Toyota kit?
  2. What does a dealer charge for the kit?
  3. If you forego draining the filter housing how much oil falls out when the cartridge is removed?
Thanks!...or as we say here in Miami, gracias!:smokin:

BTW, Ford (at least the 4.6L V8) also calls out 1/2 quart more than what initially takes to get on top of the dipstick line, which accounts for the oil filter. The filter won't be full and air-free until the engine is started, at which point the level on the dipstick will drop a little. Maybe that's why Toyota calls out 7.5 quarts instead of 7? :confused:
1. Yes, the two O-rings (1 large, 1 small) are included with the Toyota filter kit, including the plastic drain tool for the filter.
2. Some dealers are A-holes, but mine charges me $6.13 a filter with tax included. I think it boils down to $5.81 before tax...I wouldn't pay more than a couple cents over that (this is list price, supposedly).
3. There's probably 1/4 quart sitting in there...unless you want a mess all over your hand, I highly suggest using the tool (even though it may be hard initially to set it in place). I made the mistake of not using to its full potential when doing this write-up, but now that I understand how to use it, I use it every time.

Toyota does call for 7.4 quarts with filter change, but I use 7 since I won't have to open another bottle to top off and even with the filter change, the oil level is perfectly in the middle of the acceptable range. using 7.4 just puts the level at the top line (Full line). To each his own, but .4 quarts isn't going to make a difference when you already have a 7 quart sump! If it was a 3.5 or 4 quart like my Honda, then the extra .4 quart would be added.
 

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messy filter drain spout

I put the throw away filter drain spout inside of a piece of 3/4" x 6" PVC pipe and gave the bottom of the pipe a good smack. This made seating the drain spout faster and less messy.
 

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having issues

ok, so i followed your directions to a "t". but i can not get the filter cover off. i have broken 2 of the 65/14flute oil filter wrenches, i have the plier style but i dont want to mess up the plastic and i cant get them in there any ways due to the swing arm and the radiator being right there. i have no oil in my truck, and i need to get this done prior to work tomorrow morning, the closest auto parts store is an hour and a half away. i think the person who owned this beast before me over torqued it when they put it back on, someone please help!!!:headbang:
 

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ok, so i followed your directions to a "t". but i can not get the filter cover off. i have broken 2 of the 65/14flute oil filter wrenches, i have the plier style but i dont want to mess up the plastic and i cant get them in there any ways due to the swing arm and the radiator being right there. i have no oil in my truck, and i need to get this done prior to work tomorrow morning, the closest auto parts store is an hour and a half away. i think the person who owned this beast before me over torqued it when they put it back on, someone please help!!!:headbang:
It does sound like it was overtightened. How are the filter wrenches breaking? Do you have a Walmart or anything like that close by? Without seeing it in person, I can't offer any suggestions for getting the housing off. Worst case scenario, just fill it up with oil and change the oil filter next time. How many miles are on your truck? If you're past 15K miles, I wouldn't think twice about just skipping the filter this time. Maybe do your next change at 3K miles if you're not comfortable with that?
 

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GO PATRIOTS!
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The first time I took it off it was tight as hell. Sound like you have to fill it. I would suggest getting a better made filter wrench (KD and Toyota make good ones) or bring it to the dealer and have them do it. State the problem and they might do it for free......
 

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yeah, i appreciate the input gentlemen, i had some good wrenches, but the square hole where it connects to the 3/8" drive rachet handle turned to dust when i put some heavy pressure trying to get the filter cap off. i gave up on it, put the plug back in, filled it with oil, put the skid plate back on. in 2500 or 3000 miles i will take it to toyota, that way if the cap gets broken, toyota breaks and pays for it, not me. i got the oil changed on the other car though. and drained a six pack in the process, so i can still call it a success.
 

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It's the third day with my new 2010 Tundra and as a Toyota owner I've always been very pleased at the ease of doing my own work. Until I just read this section I couldn't even find the thing and my heart dropped when I saw what you guys have described as where the oil filter is located. The person that engineered that design must have been a service advisor for Toyota because people aren't going to go through all that for an oil change. Have to start thinking of some aftermarket design for the old screw on filter.
No wonder my salesman rolled his eyes and changed the subject when I asked him to point out where the filter was before the sale. :headbang:
 

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Thank you mhadden for your detailed instructions on changing the oil and filter. I bought everything from the dealer this time because they gave me a gift card with the purchase of the truck. One thing I did to make things easier was to cut a panel from the skid plate and rivet a hinge on it so I don't have to take the plate down each time. It worked fine. The only thing I have found is that with after the first oil change my oil pressure gauge seems to change more than before. Maybe it'll settle out, since it's only been about 20 miles after the change. Thank you ToyotaNation.com
 

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mhadden, thank you very much for this writeup. My first oil change on my wife's '11 would have been significantly more difficult without it. I usually do all maintenance myself, but couldn't turn down Toyota's "free" oil changes. I say "free" because it seems that I paid the price today. The monkey who did the last oil change left two bolts and two bumper screws off when he reinstalled the skid plate. If that wasn't slack enough, he also overtightened the oil pan bolt and severely overtightened the cap to the oil filter housing. It was so tight that the plastic cap was slipping when I turned the special tool that was designed to remove it. It took me about and hour and a half, but I was able to get it off by hammering a rod that I placed against a flange that's on the cap. I don't know how the guy got it on so tight, but he obviously wasn't looking at the torque specifications that Toyota supplied him. Now I remember why I do my own maintenance. Where is that email survey that Toyota sent after my last, and I do mean last, oil change?
 

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dcracer
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i guys i am gonna post some pics of the oil filter from my 2012 crewmax i am actually glad for the cartridge type filter as its easy to open andsee whats going on in ur motor,i always did that with my race bike oil filters as they have wet clutches.i have a GSXR 1000 AND 750.
i had an 06 dc that i changed the oil every 5 to 7 k with M1 and k/n oil filter and was shocked bout the 10 k intervals on my 2012 crewmax when the dealer told me.i was actually pissed as i was happy to hear bout the 25k service plan and the 5 syn oil changes i was gonna get from them.
i finally changed my oil at 7 k and after the tear down of the filter was kicking myself in the butt for not changing the oil sooner.well here r the pics and u guys decide for urself.
my suggestion dump that factory oil before u hit the 5k mark.
 

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VPTUNING
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Great write up. Did the oil change on my buddy's truck. Followed your instructions and it was a breeze. Thanks again for a great detailed write up !!!!!
 

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I just brought home an 07 Tundra this week. I almost cant wait for the miles to roll around so I can change the oil, lol. Thanks for this write up, years later and there are still some of us finding it helpful.
 

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Does anyone happen to know exactly where the large O-Ring for the canister filter needs to go? When I did mine, I put it on where I thought the old one was (the groove that is about the thickness of the o-ring), but it leaked badly once I put it back together (torqued correctly). I drained enough of the oil so that I could take it apart. I think put the o-ring in the groove that is much wider (2-3 times wider) than the o-ring. Doesn't seem like the right spot at all, but it stopped leaking. It was a REAL pain to get off the first time. So, I wonder if the dealer (who had done all the oil changes prior to that) warped something by torquing it too much.
 
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