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No problem Bennie and thanks again for the write up. It was this forum that led me to purchase a Camry and dive into mechanical work almost 3 years ago now! A detailed write up with pics is much more useful than the factory manuals imo.
All the specialty tools are available through toyota.spx.com
The specific tool in question is here:https://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=164
Both tools have 12 points but they have different shaped splines. I can't shed any more light than that. There was just a little too much play in the M12 triple square when removing the head bolts, and I remembered the manual recommends a 10 mm "bi-hex". It probably wouldn't matter if you plan on replacing the bolts.

Edit: Here is a page that backs up my point:http://www.uktools.com/toyota-cylinder-head-bolt-socket-p-40477.html
Here is the bi-hex profile:


And here is the traditional triple square:


The corners on the triple square are 90* and the corners on the bi-hex are 60*. I would probably use a 10 mm allen socket over the triple square in a pinch. The Snap On part # is SADM10E if you are feeling fancier than me.
 

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Thanks Bennie and all for the valuable information!

I actually replaced the pistons instead of drilling holes in the oil ring grooves. In hindsight, I believe I would have just drilled holes in the pistons. Here's why:

One of the noises that I hear, I believe, is piston slap. I've heard very similar noises on youtube on Siennas and Tacomas where the poster describes it as piston slap. It's one of the many noises you hear when your car is warming up. But it's always there for me now. Perhaps pistons need to wear in?

So I would definitely go Bennie's route and simply clean and drill more holes in your original pistons.

As for the head bolt tool, this is exactly what I used: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Great-Neck-4-pcs-metric-internal-wrench-set/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=2357

I did notice some play in the bit, but I think that is normal. It came out smoothly for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #183 (Edited)
No problem Bennie and thanks again for the write up. It was this forum that led me to purchase a Camry and dive into mechanical work almost 3 years ago now! A detailed write up with pics is much more useful than the factory manuals imo.
All the specialty tools are available through toyota.spx.com
The specific tool in question is here:https://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=164
Both tools have 12 points but they have different shaped splines. I can't shed any more light than that. There was just a little too much play in the M12 triple square when removing the head bolts, and I remembered the manual recommends a 10 mm "bi-hex". It probably wouldn't matter if you plan on replacing the bolts.

Edit: Here is a page that backs up my point:http://www.uktools.com/toyota-cylinder-head-bolt-socket-p-40477.html
Here is the bi-hex profile:


And here is the traditional triple square:


The corners on the triple square are 90* and the corners on the bi-hex are 60*. I would probably use a 10 mm allen socket over the triple square in a pinch. The Snap On part # is SADM10E if you are feeling fancier than me.
Very good info bustedstuff! Thanks! I will edit my original post to included the correct bit. I checked my bit last night and it is in fact the wrong bit, an M12 triple square.

Thanks Bennie and all for the valuable information!

I actually replaced the pistons instead of drilling holes in the oil ring grooves. In hindsight, I believe I would have just drilled holes in the pistons. Here's why:

One of the noises that I hear, I believe, is piston slap. I've heard very similar noises on youtube on Siennas and Tacomas where the poster describes it as piston slap. It's one of the many noises you hear when your car is warming up. But it's always there for me now. Perhaps pistons need to wear in?

So I would definitely go Bennie's route and simply clean and drill more holes in your original pistons.

As for the head bolt tool, this is exactly what I used: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Great-Neck-4-pcs-metric-internal-wrench-set/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=2357

I did notice some play in the bit, but I think that is normal. It came out smoothly for me.
Thanks for the info baileymyk, did you happen to take any pictures of the new pistons? I have never seen one and am wondering exactly what the oil drain holes look like.
 

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Hey Bennie,

Unfortunately I did not take pictures. I should have! It was a rush job because I received the parts from Misumoto on eBay on Friday night and installed the parts Saturday morning.

The new pistons have 4 holes per side. They are at least double in diameter I would say. They are cut into the bottom of the oil grooves.

This looks exactly like the ones I installed: http://s80.photobucket.com/user/dawesy_2006/media/27f61826.jpg.html

My old pistons had significant buildup inside the oil groove, however only 2 holes were plugged total. (Two pistons had only one plugged hole) There was an insane amount of carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, which leads me to believe that perhaps MMO was helping to remove the carbon in the oil grooves... Though the return holes are so small that I don't see it being a completely permanent solution, like you said.

I'm still having scary rattling noises when the car is warmed up. I think it is the timing chain. I'll post back what I find. Maybe that timing guide is loose.
 

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So the noise definitely was the timing chain. I tighted it using Bennies method. Loosening the tensioner from the cylinder head, clicking it once, then tightening.

Is the timing chain guide supposed to be a little flexible? I noticed when I was wedging a tool down there to add tension that it can move in towards the head and back. I hope I didn't damage it, haha.

Thanks all.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #186
So the noise definitely was the timing chain. I tighted it using Bennies method. Loosening the tensioner from the cylinder head, clicking it once, then tightening.

Is the timing chain guide supposed to be a little flexible? I noticed when I was wedging a tool down there to add tension that it can move in towards the head and back. I hope I didn't damage it, haha.

Thanks all.

Mike
Cool, these things just make a racket with a chain that is a little loose.

Without seeing it it's hard to say for sure. The guide on that side is just connected on the lower part of the engine so I guess I wouldn't be too worried about it.
 

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Now it just sounds like a diesel. Hard to describe. Sounds doesn't change with temperature. Almost like an exhaust leak. But it doesn't seem to be leaking.
 

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Heres an audio recording of the noise I'm getting constantly when I drive. It goes away when I coast. Gets slightly louder/ changed pitch with engine speed/load.

http://youtu.be/IZB__SKdvi4

After the :10 mark, I left off on the gas a couple times. Easier to hear the noise then.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Still having trouble really getting a good idea from the vid but I would still say double check the timing chain. It could still be loose or even out of time. Just don't over tighten it.
 

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Hey Bennie,
I'd say its consuming approximately one quart every 1000 miles or so. I had the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket replaced. Anything else I should check before coming to the conclusion that its burning oil? The burning oil problem is due to undersized pistons or poor piston rings? If I were to get this fixed, I could assume to drive this car for a long time right?

My mechanic is a pretty honest guy so hopefully he'll give me a reasonable quote. Still betting it will be over a $1000 easily.

The first thing to do is get a good gauge of exactly how much oil it's burning (how many miles can you go on a qt.). I've seen them fluctuate a bit but if it burns oil it will not fix itself. This is THE problem with these cars. If you can handle the cost of having someone fix it that is a great option, otherwise sell it and get something else. Of course there is the option to just keep adding oil and driving it. You will end up hateing it very quickly if you do that.
 

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Ugh I am losing heart. I started working on this because I was getting a random misfire, cylinder 2 misfire on the car that wouldn't let me pass inspection.

I have done this fix and just started the car up. At idle I get this stuttering that is the same as before. It is misfiring. I can definitely see the car is not burning oil at the moment, you can smell the difference with all that gunk cleaned out of the engine. So I took it to get scanned at the parts store. Same codes as before the rebuild. Random misfire and cylinder 2 misfire.

I have switched the injectors and the coil packs between the different cylinders. No difference. Seafoam, no difference. Starting fluid , a slight difference in RPMs but the misfire is not effected. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? I have not done a compression test yet, but if I do and it is lower than the rest, what would cause that? New rings, new head gasket, I lapped the valves as well.
 

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Don't lose heart yet!

Did you bolt those two ground straps to the back side of the head? You know the ones that have the brown wires attached to them? It can misfire with one of those left disconnected.

Is there any chance that the cam timing could be off a tooth? When I started mine it was off by a tooth, and I could drive it. Although it would stall if you don't push the gas.

Did you change the plugs and wires?

Ugh I am losing heart. I started working on this because I was getting a random misfire, cylinder 2 misfire on the car that wouldn't let me pass inspection.

I have done this fix and just started the car up. At idle I get this stuttering that is the same as before. It is misfiring. I can definitely see the car is not burning oil at the moment, you can smell the difference with all that gunk cleaned out of the engine. So I took it to get scanned at the parts store. Same codes as before the rebuild. Random misfire and cylinder 2 misfire.

I have switched the injectors and the coil packs between the different cylinders. No difference. Seafoam, no difference. Starting fluid , a slight difference in RPMs but the misfire is not effected. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? I have not done a compression test yet, but if I do and it is lower than the rest, what would cause that? New rings, new head gasket, I lapped the valves as well.
 

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Yes, those are connected.

The timing seems to be good, it doesn't stall, the car is always 700-800rpm at idle but when you sit in the car you can feel the "jerks" of the engine. If you go to the back, the exhaust sort of "spits" instead of having a continuous stream of exhaust gas. Would incorrect timing cause a specific cylinder to misfire?

That's the thing, I went into this because that was the exact same thing before but coupled with extreme oil burning. 1 quart oil every ~150 miles. The exhaust was actually spitting up oil and white/blue smoke when revving high. Now it burns clean without any oil or any of the smoke but the same code is still there and the misfire feeling (it's a kind of stuttering vibration.) is still there.

Before I did this, compression test showed Cylinder 2 had about 60psi difference from the rest. Upon inspection, it was the one with most buildup of carbon and oil but nothing was bent, cracked etc. I figured the new rings and stem seals would fix the problem but now I don't know. I will try to get a compression tool to see if it is good or not today.

My dilemma was either get a used engine or do it myself. I figured if I get a used one, I would run into the same problem down the road so why not do it myself. If I have to pull the head off again, does that mean I have to change head gasket and the head bolts again?
 

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Happy Easter! I hope you guys did something fun. I changed my rod bearings. Yes it definitely is possible to do from the bottom. I know some people ask that question, including me!

I would have taken pictures but I've been doing some of this work in my parking spot at my apartment complex. I doubt the managers like that.

My bearings looked pretty good, but they had some little dots of wear.

The noise is still present on my car so to the best of my knowledge right now, that noise I'm hearing is piston slap. It can't be the rod bearings, because I changed those. It can't be the wrist pins, because I spent 15 minutes tugging and pushing on the rods trying to get them to feel loose. No luck. When I spin the crank I can something shift and it's one of the pistons. Either #1 or #2.

I think I'll just leave it. I've done enough work on this car. At least it won't burn oil for a while.
 

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if it is piston slap u can disconnect the coil one at a time and see if that changes the noise..start with no.2 cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Yes, those are connected.

The timing seems to be good, it doesn't stall, the car is always 700-800rpm at idle but when you sit in the car you can feel the "jerks" of the engine. If you go to the back, the exhaust sort of "spits" instead of having a continuous stream of exhaust gas. Would incorrect timing cause a specific cylinder to misfire?

That's the thing, I went into this because that was the exact same thing before but coupled with extreme oil burning. 1 quart oil every ~150 miles. The exhaust was actually spitting up oil and white/blue smoke when revving high. Now it burns clean without any oil or any of the smoke but the same code is still there and the misfire feeling (it's a kind of stuttering vibration.) is still there.

Before I did this, compression test showed Cylinder 2 had about 60psi difference from the rest. Upon inspection, it was the one with most buildup of carbon and oil but nothing was bent, cracked etc. I figured the new rings and stem seals would fix the problem but now I don't know. I will try to get a compression tool to see if it is good or not today.

My dilemma was either get a used engine or do it myself. I figured if I get a used one, I would run into the same problem down the road so why not do it myself. If I have to pull the head off again, does that mean I have to change head gasket and the head bolts again?

When you had the valves out did they all look good? Did you check valve clearance when you had the head back together? It would be good to do another compression test now. What code is it throwing? Can you take a picture of the cam gears and the harmonic balancer, balancer at zero degrees timing?
 

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Discussion Starter #200 (Edited)
Hey Bennie,
I'd say its consuming approximately one quart every 1000 miles or so. I had the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket replaced. Anything else I should check before coming to the conclusion that its burning oil? The burning oil problem is due to undersized pistons or poor piston rings? If I were to get this fixed, I could assume to drive this car for a long time right?

My mechanic is a pretty honest guy so hopefully he'll give me a reasonable quote. Still betting it will be over a $1000 easily.
The burning oil issue is due to the oil drain holes in the pistons being to small and not having enough of them. What ends up happening is the rings (and/or oil holes) get carboned up and the rings stick in the pistons. When that happens the don't move freely in the piston and don't seal up against the cylinder wall. Oil then can get past them in to the combustion chamber where it gets burned. If you don't see any drops on the ground then it's burning it. I wouldn't recommened tearing in to it until it's at about 1qt every 500 miles. It's hard to say how long that will take to get there so if it were me, I'd just wait.

It's hard to say what it will cost. I have quoted people $1000 for exacly what I did in this write up (hopeing to come out below that). Generally anytime a shop touches one of these heads it gets expensive real fast. The head may not need anything but I like to replace the valve seals as long as the head it off.
 
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