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here's where im at now ;)


top: figured it out.
Right: from exhaust pile
Left: from Intake pile
Bottom: some sort of oval insert that came off sometime with the valve cover. i do remember removing it, but not where from.


Two 10mm hex nuts from drivers side head. no studs over there ?!


current status of engine. Also, there's this bracket that holds the throttle cable going from the throttle body to the tranny, but i cant figure out where this mounts.


o2 bolts (get new nut and clean threads), heat shield
 

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Its Running!!!!!! ( but thats a bad thing :()

Two problems:
1. engine doesnt idle (foot must be a bit on the gas to start + keep it going), IAC trouble?
2. a few minutes of "idling" and its near Too Hot! Im thinking air bubbles, so it will cool in time? people say turning the heater on helps. i dunno about that. but when i put it to defrost instead of vents, the temp shoots up like crazy. (heater still has some bubbles?). anyways, its cooling for a bit, then ill tinker some more.
 

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Its Running!!!!!! ( but thats a bad thing :()

Two problems:
1. engine doesnt idle (foot must be a bit on the gas to start + keep it going), IAC trouble?
2. a few minutes of "idling" and its near Too Hot! Im thinking air bubbles, so it will cool in time?
did you refill coolant? turn on the heater full blast while running. make sure all vacuum tubes are reconnected. any check engine lights?
 

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jesus dude, refill the coolant? of course i did, lol. I was tired of idling which didnt seem to be helping (heater was still cold). So, i pushed it out of the garage (idle issue wasnt playing well with reverse...). anyways, after i got it out i didnt stop moving :D good thing im in a small town: shortly after some 90mph bashing the heater was nice n' hot, so i think that issue is taken care of. ill let the engine cool and then do some idling and see what happens later. i definitely noticed some performance gain in the upper RPMs

Yes, there is a check engine light, but that maybe the 400$ charcoal container im not gonna replace. i think with some heel and toe practice ill be able to get to work without it dying (much). and then go to orilies for the OBD tester. But it also be the fact that i dont have a gas cap on right now... lol i feel like a dumbass. (the evap error)

testing the IAC the books way is not gonna work because of the idle issues lol. now, im trying to get it the IAC off, but torx nor allen seem to work. grrr, why does everything have to be such a pain.
 

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just making sure, i've had my fair share of absent-minded mistakes!

just weird that the idle is off. i would read CEL codes regardless of any preexisting conditions. make sure you have no vacuum leaks. try spraying brake cleaner by the intake manifold gasket as well to make sure it has a good seal.
 

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hah yeah we all have. just thought of something: before this rebuild when i reset the ECU, the CEL wouldnt come on until a bit later. now it comes on right away, so there is obviously another issue.


so just to be sure, the IAC is on the driver side + underneath the throttle body right next to the flex hose from the air box? see red box in pic above?

also im having this "whine" just like this guy. sounds like a very soft turbo. loool

Update: i took the throttle body and the IAC and found nothing but a bit of of dirt and grime. before cleaning anything, i turned the key to ON and plugged in / unplugged the IAC. it worked fine. there was about 3/32in that it didnt open. see pic: the blue arrow is the distance im talking about. thats not mine, nor how it looked exactly.

i still have that whistle. it sounds pretty funny, but i know it shouldn't be there :D idle is a bit better but still dies. I did change the idle screw, and that made it a bit better too, but it still dies when not moving. so it might be vacum related and the book has some stuff on it, but do you have tips on that? another thing i thought of that might be the issue. when my dad and I (is that how you say it :D) were putting the motor mount back on after changing the water pump, the mounting holes for the mount on the fender were ~1in off we had to use a crowbar to push the block so it would fit. Aka I fucking hate the previous lying owners...
 

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all right. this is what i got:
P0505: IAC Fail or circuit fault

P0120: Throttle Position sensor fail or circuit fault (could be because of idle change or the cabe is off a bit on the throttle body)

P1346: VVT sensor fail or circuit fault (i replaced it with a brand new one, so maybe its circuit fault... nooooooooooooo)

also, as dumb as it may sound, i didnt know that you could "scroll" through the OBD tester if it had more than one issue. so these couldve been there before the rebuild.
 

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all right. this is what i got:
P0505: IAC Fail or circuit fault

P0120: Throttle Position sensor fail or circuit fault (could be because of idle change or the cable is off a bit on the throttle body)

P1346: VVT sensor fail or circuit fault (i replaced it with a brand new one, so maybe its circuit fault... nooooooooooooo)

also, as dumb as it may sound, i didnt know that you could "scroll" through the OBD tester if it had more than one issue. so these couldve been there before the rebuild.
p1346 see this thread: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-8th-generation-1998-2002/13...et-change.html

That's weird that it's still there after replacement. Id clear it and fix the code that first comes up. Sometimes 1 code will lead to other codes.
checked my vvt; its ok! (physically)

i just thought of this: i never pulled the TB or manifold fully out of the car and so it was sitting at a pretty weird angle for it to be out of the way for the rebuild. i think its quite possible (esp because the TPS and IAC are on the same loom of wire) that it may be the wiring. update: washed my car today after work and checked the codes again: VVT error is gone, but TPS + IAC are still there. My next steps: use book diagrams to seem if wires are broken (continuity to ECU from connector), and two, get the IAC and TPS from the junkyard and see if they work. brand new is 186$ USD at rock auto for both sensors. also, im gonna take the TB off again and see if the 10% open (off) and 50% open (ig on) is true for the IAC.
 

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I was looking at this and wondered whether I get standard size piston rings or oversize? The corolla has 154,000 miles and is just starting to consume oil at a decent rate, but I was already doing the clutch so everything is opened up and now is the time to do it if I am going to. I searched this thread, but nothing turned up, the web suggests that one doesn't buy oversize piston rings though so I guess the standard rings are the right answer. I did not know if wear of the cylinder wall would make a person require larger rings or something (but then I suppose one would lose compression).
 

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Houston we have a problem lol. the electrical diagram in the book is not matching my ECU. For ex: the book says TACH is on the C8 pin. However, if i look at my ECU's board and read the print next to where the pins are soldered in, it clearly says TACH is C12. is the book referring to manual ECU when mine is auto? do i trust the ECU board or the book? i was thinking of course i trust the physical board, but then i went and looked at C8 on the C connector and it had no pin (no need for a tach on an auto...)

alright, after looking through some mod docs for corollas i found this: www.scribd.com/doc/19580873 which describes different places for connections depending on which car model. so i need to find an electrical diagram for my auto car...

welp, figured that out, now i just have to connect the bridge.

well, that didnt help. still the same idle issue (starts rough for a sec, idles awesome for 5 secs, then crappy idle again). maybe these two lines connect to something else, and its broken there? but i can gather from my continuity tests that the TPS is ok and the IAC is probably causing that.

Next: dont see any way around it: checking the timing + taking off the cover
 

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Houston we have a problem lol. the electrical diagram in the book is not matching my ECU. For ex: the book says TACH is on the C8 pin. However, if i look at my ECU's board and read the print next to where the pins are soldered in, it clearly says TACH is C12. is the book referring to manual ECU when mine is auto? do i trust the ECU board or the book? i was thinking of course i trust the physical board, but then i went and looked at C8 on the C connector and it had no pin (no need for a tach on an auto...)

alright, after looking through some mod docs for corollas i found this: www.scribd.com/doc/19580873 which describes different places for connections depending on which car model. so i need to find an electrical diagram for my auto car...

welp, figured that out, now i just have to connect the bridge.

well, that didnt help. still the same idle issue (starts rough for a sec, idles awesome for 5 secs, then crappy idle again). maybe these two lines connect to something else, and its broken there? but i can gather from my continuity tests that the TPS is ok and the IAC is probably causing that.

Next: dont see any way around it: checking the timing + taking off the cover
Yay it finally idles! Now I just gotta adjuat the idle screw, refill the coolant (overheats like before becaue I had to drain the coolant) and put the dash back together.
 

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First, thanks for the wonderful thread.

I'm considering performing this fix, but I would like to know if it is appropriate given my situation.

The car is my wife's 2001 Corolla 1.8L LE. It was running fine and had what I thought was fairly minor oil consumption on synthetic oil. Life got hectic and the oil didn't get changed or checked by me for 16 months (about 4500 miles.) That's my fault, it was a stupid thing to let it go that long without looking at it. Sadly, it turned out my wife wasn't checking the oil at fill-ups (as I had asked, grr), and when I drained it there was only about 1 quart in the oil pan. It was running Pennzoil Ultra at the time. I don't know exactly how much was really in there, but it wasn't nearly enough. As far as I know the oil light never came on -- I'm guessing this means that either the switch is bad or there was still enough oil for the pump to function.

After the oil change the car seems to be running fine with no codes and perfectly reasonable gas mileage, except now it is blatantly obvious the car is eating oil. Is there a good chance I can still do this fix, or will I just be wasting my time after running the engine with only a quart of oil for so long?

I'm hoping the answer is, "so long as your oil light never came on, you're probably good to go." Please let that be the answer.

Thanks so much,
cmw9
 

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Discussion Starter · #338 ·
First, thanks for the wonderful thread.

I'm considering performing this fix, but I would like to know if it is appropriate given my situation.

The car is my wife's 2001 Corolla 1.8L LE. It was running fine and had what I thought was fairly minor oil consumption on synthetic oil. Life got hectic and the oil didn't get changed or checked by me for 16 months (about 4500 miles.) That's my fault, it was a stupid thing to let it go that long without looking at it. Sadly, it turned out my wife wasn't checking the oil at fill-ups (as I had asked, grr), and when I drained it there was only about 1 quart in the oil pan. It was running Pennzoil Ultra at the time. I don't know exactly how much was really in there, but it wasn't nearly enough. As far as I know the oil light never came on -- I'm guessing this means that either the switch is bad or there was still enough oil for the pump to function.

After the oil change the car seems to be running fine with no codes and perfectly reasonable gas mileage, except now it is blatantly obvious the car is eating oil. Is there a good chance I can still do this fix, or will I just be wasting my time after running the engine with only a quart of oil for so long?

I'm hoping the answer is, "so long as your oil light never came on, you're probably good to go." Please let that be the answer.

Thanks so much,
cmw9
cmw9,
The oil light is unreliable. It's hard to say what damaged may have happened until you actually inspect the bearings (both cam and rod can be inspected if you decide to fix it).

Some people decide they would rather keep driving it and adding oil instead of cracking it open to inspect and fix it, possibly finding bad news. I'm the "fix it sooner than later" type myself.

If it seems to be running good I think you have a good shot at it. Nobody can know for sure though until you crack it open.
 

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well mine is running fine after fixing the timing chain and a bit of love for the coolant to circulate. I'll upload some pics eventually. I had to take off the wheel for the timing chain when I put the wheel cover back on it never fit right and came off a few times. I did a bit of driving yesterday and now I don't have a wheel cover. It's things like this that make me hate it more!
 
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