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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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5,300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So you've determined that your switches are good, your motor is good, but it JUST WONT MOVE!!! or it only goes up or down. Now you've figured out that its a wiring issue. This is an easy fix... Heres the tools you will need:

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. Small gauge wire (12 or 16)


I am showing you this with a harness that I had in my garage. Funny thing was it ended up actually needing repairing anyways.

First thing you have to do is remove the door panel completely. Disconnecting all connections.

Heres a good write up on removing the door panel:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/otherodddiyjobs/l/aa092504a.htm

After you remove the panel, and disconnect the connections for the harness, remove the inside kick panel (under the Hood Release). You will see where the harness plugs in. Push the harness through the door, and through the body of the car so the harness is now inside the car.



Locate the rubber section that goes between the door panel and the body as listed below


pull back the rubber grommet to expose the wires. HEY Looky there, looks like two wires are split :naughty:


Connect your wires to repair the harness


Solder the wires up


Wrap the wires up securely and reinstall the harness on the door panel


Presto :clap: Your windows work now
 

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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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5,300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lol , they are nice but they have their downside too. The cables break over time (manual windows have a gear mechanism. The windows freeze to the door, and the window motors aren't powerful enough to pull it down and if your cables are weak that little tension could break the cable. The wires break like shown above in the DIY. Manual windows suck because if you want a rear window or passenger window down you have to have someone with you, or lean over and crank it down. But they will almost always outlast a power window.. that is unless the gears break or something. Which generally doesnt happen with manual windows
 

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nice DIY. Will be very helpful for us. ur cat looks like it wanna chew on the harness.haha..j/k
 

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Nice DIY Mister Perkins! This problem/question comes up fairly often; it'll be nice to be able to refer people to it.

I've had to repair some wires in that harness in my Camry twice. The first time it was affecting the passenger-side window control. It's been quite a while, but if I recall correctly it had to do with the child lock-out switch wiring that went to the driver's controls. That one had me scratchin' my head for a while!
 

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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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5,300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The child Safety lock is a mechanical lock thats on the side of the door. Spins sideways

Or are you talking about the Window Lock button?

Keep in mind, All the windows power goes through the Drivers side window switch first and then is spread across the car. If you have a problem with the wiring between the drivers door and the junction box (Broken wire) it could affect any door window function
 

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The child Safety lock is a mechanical lock thats on the side of the door. Spins sideways

Or are you talking about the Window Lock button?
Ah, right, I meant the window lock. The one that disables all the other doors' window switches to keep kids from hurting themselves or each other.

Keep in mind, All the windows power goes through the Drivers side window switch first and then is spread across the car. If you have a problem with the wiring between the drivers door and the junction box (Broken wire) it could affect any door window function
Yup. It took me a while to figure that out the first time. I had assumed the passenger side got its power independently; not via the driver's controls. Had to study the wiring schematic and probe around for quite a while.

Oh, one thing to add that may seem obvious to some but not all: when splicing in a chunk of wire, use stranded wire, not solid. Solid wire won't take the flexing for very long before it breaks again. The finer the wire stranding, the better.
 

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great writeup, previous owner just spent $200 on the switch assembly and didnt fix problem...Gave me a $200 discount on car, and I wiggled the boot between door and frame and the windows worked....Thank you, I love the car and saved an extra 2 bills to boot. Next step do what you did and repair the wires...
 

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thank you guys, found 1 broken wire and three that broke when I pulled on wire loom....Windows work great, now to sell the brand new door switch assembly on flee bay and recover some money....The old switch assembly was fine...
 

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1996 Camry 4cyl auto
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6 Posts
photos

Hello,
Is there any way to get these photos back? I need to repair my door wiring and these photos would be a huge help.
Thanks
 

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Hello,
Is there any way to get these photos back? I need to repair my door wiring and these photos would be a huge help.
Thanks
Nope. The original poster, Perkins, must've deleted them from where he was hosting them.

I've repaired mine without removing the harness from the car. Just push the rubber boot to one side to expose the wire bundle and go from there.
 

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Nope. The original poster, Perkins, must've deleted them from where he was hosting them.

I've repaired mine without removing the harness from the car. Just push the rubber boot to one side to expose the wire bundle and go from there.
Done that with my '96 LE before. Now my right-rear power-lock & window are dead so I may need to do it again. So far as the master window switch goes, they often give trouble too and can be repaired (at least for awhile) if one is good with switch dissassembly & cleaning. I got a couple extra years out of mine that way, but eventually needed a replacement. So I found a good one in Pick-N-Pull for about $20 that's lasted a couple years so far.

Happy Motoring, Mark
 

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Who you gonna call?
2004 Camry XLE
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999 Posts
Out of the 22 or so wires in the driver door, only nine were completely intact so I ended up replacing every wire!
 

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1996 Camry 4cyl auto
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6 Posts
Well I tried to make the repair by just peeling the grommet back but it was too tight in there for me. So I ended up taking the door panel off. I found three wires broken and several others with broken insulation. Start to finish it took me about an hour and a half to get it fixed and put back together.
Thanks to all in this forum for the info. The windows and door locks now work perfectly.
 

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Total PWR Window & S/R FAILURE_Gen3.5 Cream-Puff Camry

Car has factory alarm, keyless entry.

My '96 Camry LE, Gen3.5, OEM-Master Window SW was only partially functional. It would NOT raise/lower Rear-LHS glass only.
Window wise, all else was fine, key word, "was".

Also, the Master Door-Lock button would not Lock Driver's door; only the FR-Passenger door-lock button would work both ways.
That and the remote lock/unlock entry function using either OEM fob, would NOT open the driver's door. It would seldom get or stay In-Sync with the other 3 locks, after manually Synching, so you usually had to go around to passenger door & reach over to unlock the Driver's door, a real PITA.

Suspecting the MWSW per the shop manual's error-probability matrix chart, I tested the Rear-Passenger LHS window-motor directly on the battery, (after removing it), & it worked when hot-wired in both directions. Motor was good. Swapped Rear-Window switches & both were good too.

Juggled, jiggled, tugged a little bit on the wiring harnesses for Drivers-Side FR & Rr opened doors, when my wife was alternately playing w/ the MWSW to see if we could get the Rear-LHS glass to move at all. Nothing.

I'm not really good w/ electronics, VOM's, etc. Only used a basic test bulb & ground wire before, very old school.

It seemed the Master SW was least likely to fail, but I could not diagnose it properly.
Instead, I opened it up & gently cleaned off the soot on all contacts, careful not to remove too much meat on the contacts, lubed all pivot-points w/ 3M dielectric grease, etc. Reassembled; same failures as before.

Frustrated at $440 (local) OEM SW replacement cost, I settled for an iffy $26 New-Chinese Ebay SW & plugged it in.
Only functionality I got was I could Lock/Unlock all doors In-sync 3 times. Then, nothing. Holy crap!

Now, no windows At All work. Worse still, my sunroof ist kaput. It's tilted open & nothing else about it responds.

Not to worry, I plug in the old, repaired MWSW. Now it too ist kaput. Nothing.

So I gave the new "finest-quality" Chinese SW the sniff test. It smells SLIGHTLY burnt, you know, that acrid smell electrical motors & wires emit that once you've smelled it, like your first exposure to an excited teen-aged girlfriend, you never forget.

So neither the $26 Chinese Ebay SW & OEM SW appear to work now when plugged in.

Checked all the fuses behind the LHS tiny glove box; R&R each one. None blown. Did same R&R for under the hood fuses & relays, (2 big boxes on Driver's side), all appeared good.

After reading this thread, it seems all there is left to inspect is to look for broken wires inside the wire bundle's sheathing and the door boots. Another PITA. Damn, how I miss manual windows. I really do.

Why the hell would the sunroof crap out? I've even disconnected the battery Neg. terminal for a half hour; cleaned, greased the terminals. No improvement.

The clincher is my wife's car was bought new, one owner, her, & has < 138K original miles. I would not mind so much if this had 250K+ on it, or way more.

Any ideas based on experience? Relays perhaps? Please advise. Thanks.
 

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Maybe that Chinese switch was defective. Or more likely broken wiring inside a door-boot shorted out while you were messing with it. Time to check your fuses and start over.


Happy Motoring, Mark
 

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Maybe that Chinese switch was defective. Or more likely broken wiring inside a door-boot shorted out while you were messing with it. Time to check your fuses and start over.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Back to the gulag. Will start over.

Has anyone used those $25 Chinese-knock off MPW Switches before with good results?
 

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Back to the gulag. Will start over.

Has anyone used those $25 Chinese-knock off MPW Switches before with good results?
Rock Auto's price for that switch is $62.
I didn't know there were new $25 MPW switches, and that price doesn't reassure me.
After 4 years, the $25 salvage-yard OE switch in my '96 LE is still working

Happy Motoring, Mark
 
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