Toyota Nation Forum banner

61 - 77 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
P0022 P0024 VVT Oil Solenoid & filter screen

Thanks SweneyP much appreciated!

Tonight i took off and cleaned both CCT Oil Solenoid filter screens. They were easy to get to and only took 15 mins total. They were dirty but not that dirty or sludged up. Pics below.
Some one in another forum at Toyota Nation recommended I check the PCV valve, I did and it was solid sludge shut coroded. I sprayed it with some WD40, Brake Clean and liquid wrench, no luck SOLID. So I took a small phliips and tapped the plunger diaphram with a hammer and got it free and then let it soak internally and cleaned it up. and now it moves freely, and reinstalled.
I also cleaned the rear Camshaft sensor (the one i could reach easily)

I took it for a 10 mile drive and no lights yet but i think i returned home too soon. We will see after tomorrows commute to work.
 

·
AvConsult
'02 Highlander V6
Joined
·
3,556 Posts
Not sure how fussy 2GR-FE is to OCV screen clogging, but maybe it doesn't take much obstruction. If the codes return, given that they complain of both intake and exhaust cam position errors on the same bank, I'd further scrutinize shared electrical connections for the Oil Control Valves or sensors on Bank 2 (radiator side). Seems unlikely to have either two cam sensors or two OCV's fail at same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
How much oil leakage is there when removing the lower bolt? Should the block be drained first or is leakage minimal?

Nobody has mentioned this issue in these DIY so I'm guessing it's not much. It is a fair amount higher than the pan isn't it?

The dipstick is almost useless on these engines so I'd rather not have to deal with figuring out how much oil to replace if any substantial amount leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Most excellent write up. I agree with you it is never a bad idea to have too much lubrication. That is why I run all my vehicles with Mobil 1. Great photos also. Thanks again.
 

·
A Legend In My Own Mind
08 Avalon Limited
Joined
·
70 Posts
Since you will have the oil pipe off anyways, I HIGHLY, HIGHLY, HIGHLY, recommend that you clean the small metal (cone shaped) strainer/filter at the end of the TOP union bolt. The video posted here does not show the filter but it clicks into the end of the top union bolt that he shows so either the filter in this car's oil pipe stayed in the female portion of the fitting / head or (I doubt) he dropped it into the motor somewhere. Be very slow/methodical when removing the top union bolt from it's fitting and the filter will probably just come out attached to the end of the bolt. Anyways, I just took one off and the filter was there and, at first, it looked clean (so almost did not clean it) but sprayed it with brake cleaner and found out that it was absolutely FILTHY!!! Make sure you spray from the outside to the inside too as that would be back flushing (the best way). You will also probably need to fish some of the fine sediment out with a toothpick or something like that. Or just buy a new oil pipe filter ( Cost =$5.-$7., Toyota part number 15678-46020 ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Just had this installed at dealer and noticed that the lower crush gasket got broken where they're joined together it looks like they tighten it too much and it popped where they're joined together does anyone think it matters if they got broken when they tighten it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Just had this installed at dealer and noticed that the lower crush gasket got broken where they're joined together it looks like they tighten it too much and it popped where they're joined together does anyone think it matters if they got broken when they tighten it?
285235

The middle part holding both gaskets is the one that looks like it broke when they installed it
 

·
A Legend In My Own Mind
08 Avalon Limited
Joined
·
70 Posts
View attachment 285235
The middle part holding both gaskets is the one that looks like it broke when they installed it
For what it is worth, I installed this myself and I ALSO broke the middle part of the gasket while installing. I am not concerned as I THINK its only function is to make it easier to put both washers on the pipe and keep them in place at the same time while tightening the bolt. Bottom line is that if it is not leaking any oil, then I do not see how it could matter as (IMHO) the only purpose that gaskets could have is to retain the oil without leaks. I am an anal worrying type, but I chose not to worry about this washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I'm about to attack this in a day or two: has anyone tried removing the lower bolt first then the upper? I don't think it would ultimately matter but my thought is most all the oil would drain out the bottom and minimize the mess on the top end when that bolt is removed.
 

·
A Legend In My Own Mind
08 Avalon Limited
Joined
·
70 Posts
I'm about to attack this in a day or two: has anyone tried removing the lower bolt first then the upper? I don't think it would ultimately matter but my thought is most all the oil would drain out the bottom and minimize the mess on the top end when that bolt is removed.
That is exactly how I did it but because I was afraid that I would not be able to get to the bottom bolt and then be successful getting it off. And if not, then was going to abort the job (so why bother loosening top first). Took forever to get to the bottom bolt and then get it off (on VERY, VERY, Very, tight and hard to reach). I was LITERALLY on my last try before aborting the job. and it finally came loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
That is exactly how I did it but because I was afraid that I would not be able to get to the bottom bolt and then be successful getting it off. And if not, then was going to abort the job (so why bother loosening top first). Took forever to get to the bottom bolt and then get it off (on VERY, VERY, Very, tight and hard to reach). I was LITERALLY on my last try before aborting the job. and it finally came loose.
Thanks for the input, was it seized from corrosion or just a matter of not being able to get leverage? I've got a 3/8" drive breaker bar about 24" long that I'm hoping I can maneuver in there to crack it loose.
 

·
A Legend In My Own Mind
08 Avalon Limited
Joined
·
70 Posts
Thanks for the input, was it seized from corrosion or just a matter of not being able to get leverage? I've got a 3/8" drive breaker bar about 24" long that I'm hoping I can maneuver in there to crack it loose.
I forgot to include that I did this on my 2008 Avalon so, if yours is a highlander, it (most likely) might be easier. As far as on an 08 Avalon (if I remember correctly) I used 1/2 inch breaker bar and multiple 1/2 inch extensions (about 2 feet worth) with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter / reducer and a swivel socket (can get all at H Freight). I tried 3/8 extensions and breaker bar but they flexed to much to get the job done. No corrosion, just a weird angle, long extension and they are on VERY tight. The tightness is noted on other sites and if I had not read about it before, I would have probably given up on it much sooner. ALSO I HIGHLY recommend soaking the Power Steering pump bolt (the one on the top right) with pb blaster as it was a huge challenge also. If you want to see A relevant thread AND a lengthy detailed description of my oil pipe install, you can see it here... https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-2007-2011-2grfe-camry-rubber-to-metal-vvt-i-line-swap-w-pics.911666/page-2#post-14131036
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I forgot to include that I did this on my 2008 Avalon so, if yours is a highlander, it (most likely) might be easier. As far as on an 08 Avalon (if I remember correctly) I used 1/2 inch breaker bar and multiple 1/2 inch extensions (about 2 feet worth) with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter / reducer and a swivel socket (can get all at H Freight). I tried 3/8 extensions and breaker bar but they flexed to much to get the job done. No corrosion, just a weird angle, long extension and they are on VERY tight. The tightness is noted on other sites and if I had not read about it before, I would have probably given up on it much sooner. ALSO I HIGHLY recommend soaking the Power Steering pump bolt (the one on the top right) with pb blaster as it was a huge challenge also. If you want to see A relevant thread AND a lengthy detailed description of my oil pipe install, you can see it here... https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-2007-2011-2grfe-camry-rubber-to-metal-vvt-i-line-swap-w-pics.911666/page-2#post-14131036
Thanks, yep no PS pump on the Highlander so I have that going for me.
 
61 - 77 of 77 Posts
Top