[Vangm25]

Just buy the big socket for when you need it.

 

[CamryFL]

Thanks, where can I find the Astro Pneumatics at the best price?

I ordered mine from Amazon, have the 3/8" Cr-Mo version here.

Used for close-quarter fastener removal. Loosen fastener by hand ratchet, (or wrench, like Borwish said, very handy to have that ability) then use a 3/8" air / electric ratchet (no Impact) to "zip out" the bolt. Huge time saver, when working w/ long bolts.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I seem to think I recently used a 1 3/8 inch SAE socket recently aka 35mm but I changed a total of 7 wheel bearings on a 2003 Camry, 2007 Camry and 2008 Saturn Aura combination of fronts and rears. Sadly I did those over about a 10 day span total over a 2 week time frame. So I do not recall which of the above used that! LOL I know a 32 would not do it because I carry a up to 32mm in my all metric handy dandy trunk tool box in my 2003 Camry and I had to actually go to my upright rolling tool cabinet and crack open the drawer with the big boy tools that mostly collect dust. My 2003 Camry was made in Japan and is a 5spd manual transmission but the 2007 is North American made and an automatic both have 2AZFE engines. P.S. My 1995.5 Tacoma still has it's original bearings front and rear.

Lol I am trying to get the axle nuts off my dads 2004 Camry to replace the hubs and bearings and they won’t come off with a breaker bar so I went out and bought an impact for home since it is not driveable since the bearings completely failed because he kept driving it with the noise so I sprayed tons of PB Blaster on it and went out and bought a 30mm 12 point socket for it to have at home and am hoping to get it off when I get off work it is really seized on there the last shop put it on with an impact and tightened it all the way down with it so it is pretty tight I am sure.

 

[CamryFL]

If the Axle nut is frozen on, you should use a 6 point socket, more surface area contacts the fastener -> equals more torque to remove. If no good, suggest finding a local shop w/ heat (torch), and equipment to remove / reinstall to proper torque for you to complete the repair later.

 

[AutoMechanic]

If the Axle nut is frozen on, you should use a 6 point socket, more surface area contacts the fastener -> equals more torque to remove. If no good, suggest finding a local shop w/ heat (torch), and equipment to remove / reinstall to proper torque for you to complete the repair later.

What I did was got a Harbor Freight Earthquake impact 1/2 drive today used the 30mm 12 point socket since the axle nut is 12 point and it took it off with no issues it is rated with a breakaway torque of 1190ft pounds and then it helped on some of the other bolts also

 

[CamryFL]

What I did was got a Harbor Freight Earthquake impact 1/2 drive today used the 30mm 12 point socket since the axle nut is 12 point and it took it off with no issues it is rated with a breakaway torque of 1190ft pounds and then it helped on some of the other bolts also

Sorry, my bad - I keep forgetting there are 12 pt axle nuts for the Camry. Cool that it zipped off w/o any fuss.

Did you get the air, or the electric HF Earthquake XT impact?

Asking because it sounds like a torque monster: and the (circa 1990's) Craftsman 1/2" air impact gun I have here is old, and getting tired (like the owner, lol.).

 

[AutoMechanic]

Sorry, my bad - I keep forgetting there are 12 pt axle nuts for the Camry. Cool that it zipped off w/o any fuss.

Did you get the air, or the electric HF Earthquake XT impact?

Asking because it sounds like a torque monster: and the (circa 1990's) Craftsman 1/2" air impact gun I have here is old, and getting tired (like the owner, lol.).

I got the air impact it’s the Earthquake XT

 

[Vangm25]

Air power is still the way to go besides having a huge breaker bar.

 

[norm356]

hey, that's the same air impact I bought too!

It is interesting that some have found 12pt nuts on their axles because the 3 Camrys that I have ('92, '93 and '94) and the new nuts I just bought from the dealer, all have 6pt nuts.

There is a castle washer that goes over them that has 12 points, but that's just so the cotter pin is easy to line up.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Air power is still the way to go besides having a huge breaker bar.

Yeah I tried to break the axle nut loose with a breaker bar and it was flexing so I tried my smaller 1/2 air impact it didn’t even move it so I bought this one and I’m keeping it. The Earthquake impacts have been recommended to me several times by other mechanics also and now I am happy I got it.

 

[Camreeeee]

12 pts are aftermarket only as far as I know, I've never seen anything but 6 pts in junkyards, not all of them are 30mm either. Mine are 32mm 6 pts.

It's way more expensive and not necessarily if you have air tools, but the electric corded and cordless earthquake xt is an absolute beast as well.

The battery life is super long, a good 15 minutes of hammering from a 4A 20v battery. It broke loose some junkyard rear knuckle bolts with 1 charge in 5 mins and my old rusty 300k rear knuckle bolts that an 8 ft breaker+cheater bar (now bent) was just lifting the car off stands.

Only complaint is it goes into a safe mode after 5 minutes straight so you have to let the motor cool down for a few if you have a really stuck bolt. It's also pretty heavy compared to something without a big battery.

Still way more expensive than corded or air impacts but if you need something portable it's no slouch. Lots of YouTube vids comparing it to others since I can't, but they show it being stronger than many air impacts.

I just think it's super cool that a portable electric impact has that much torque.

 

[CamryFL]

I got the air impact it’s the Earthquake XT

Thanks much for the pic (with the model #) AutoMechanic ! ... I see a trip to HF in my near future.

...
I just think it's super cool that a portable electric impact has that much torque.

That is cool! Much appreciate that info also Camreeeee, will take a look at that also. If it handled those rear knuckle bolts: then it really is the real deal: been there, done that also. They're a PITA.

... '00 Camry here is due for control arm bushings, a complete rear suspension rebuild, and a replacement steering rack - I'm thinking a new Impact will save me some time & grief when I do the service(s) in the next few weeks.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Thanks much for the pic (with the model #) AutoMechanic ! ... I see a trip to HF in my near future.




That is cool! Much appreciate that info also Camreeeee, will take a look at that also. If it handled those rear knuckle bolts: then it really is the real deal: been there, done that also. They're a PITA.

... '00 Camry here is due for control arm bushings, a complete rear suspension rebuild, and a replacement steering rack - I'm thinking a new Impact will save me some time & grief when I do the service(s) in the next few weeks.

I bet you will love it when you get it

 

[Camreeeee]

... '00 Camry here is due for control arm bushings, a complete rear suspension rebuild, and a replacement steering rack - I'm thinking a new Impact will save me some time & grief when I do the service(s) in the next few weeks.

I would recommend using whiteline poly bushings for the steering rack sleeved bushing even if you don't drive it hard, it will tighten up the steering with worn steering components more than brand new tie rods and a rack with new oem bushings. The rubber bushing allows a 1/4-3/8ths inch of play, 1/2" when shot. The poly bushings don't allow any movement worth measuring without a caliper. Once you put the rack in it will be a PITA if you change your mind.

I'd also recommend using whitelines split front control arm donut bushings as well if you want less torque steer and more stable braking, the ride would be firmer over curbs and potholes and grooves where the wheel is not conforming to the road, but it wouldn't make it jarring or harsh driving down the highway or anything, just less sloppy.

I've tried a few polyurethane brands and whiteline is pricier but the effort they put into their design and quality is worth it over energy suspension and nolathane. Problem solving bushings are awesome too but they are pricey and don't have them for everything.

---

If you wanna save yourself grief with the steering rack mounting bolt; buy harbor freights swivel socket set and impact u-joints. They will save you a massive amount of grief with every suspension job.

With tie rods and the sway bar links disconnected from the bar you can push the swaybar to rotate it upwards where it sits against the fender well out of the way.

Then you unbolt the 2 closest brake hardline cover 10mm bolts under the car, its plastic so I just bent it backwards to work and then bent it back into place when I was done.

Then you can take 2 impact u-joints + 19mm impact swivel socket together and place them facing directly forward, this will leave you with the first u-joints female drive directly facing the ground.

[2 u-joints+swivel socket = 90 degrees]

Then you can attach a cheater bar and big breaker bar to it or a $10 hf torque wrench that is locked at the highest torque setting and used only for loosening bolts (way easier when you can ratchet it back instead of physically disconnecting a breaker bar.)

When I torque that steering rack bolt, I just sit on the ground outside the drivers door and press the torque wrench inwards with both feet. It's that easy [..never].

 

[CamryFL]

Thanks for the recommendation on Whiteline poly bushings, and the detailed procedure for the steering rack w/ the swivel sockets and u-joints: that's some Pro tips in the procedure: I appreciate it, the detailed info will save me time here.

I wasn't planning on using poly bushings .. but you've convinced me. Seeing as this will be the last suspension service: I can show the Camry some love this time around. I'll be getting some Whiteline bushing sets (Front,Rear,Rack) ordered this weekend.

 

[Camreeeee]

Thanks for the recommendation on Whiteline poly bushings, and the detailed procedure for the steering rack w/ the swivel sockets and u-joints: that's some Pro tips in the procedure: I appreciate it, the detailed info will save me time here.

I wasn't planning on using poly bushings .. but you've convinced me. Seeing as this will be the last suspension service: I can show the Camry some love this time around. I'll be getting some Whiteline bushing sets (Front,Rear,Rack) ordered this weekend.

Keep in mind they are much harder than rubber, those two I mentioned are the two major bushings that will improve steering feel and response without adding harshness.

All 3 sets of those bushings combined will cause your car to want to keep going the direction the wheels are pointed when you brake and accelerate, by counteracting the forces trying to misalign your tires better than rubber will by virtue of being harder to compress. Keep in mind that means more of the force on the tires is going into the body instead of being absorbed by the suspension.

The steering rack and front control arm donut bushing are not a big deal NVH wise and you don't need to worry about a bad ride from those two, but the rear trailing arms are the sole thing keeping the knuckle from swinging back and forth so there is a lot of meat in those bushings. The Problem solving bushings I have in those arms are more poly bearings than poly bushings, I think the whiteline ones were a bit softer if I recall, but still hard as a hockey puck.

For the rear end if you put in poly bushings I'd grab whiteline trailing arm bushings, they will also improve stability when braking and to a lesser degree when accelerating and cornering; My perception of acceptable NVH is probably a very warped considering what I've done to my car, so I'm not sure if rear trailing arm poly bushings make it harsher, I'm guessing a bit but not much. Leave the lateral link heim joints as-is unless you're planning on drifting lol.

The front control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings/knuckle bushing can be removed using a box cutter/blades and pry bars/screwdrivers to pry chunks out of them. Don't use a torch on the one on the knuckle, that one you get to just lay under the car chipping away at it inside the knuckle unless you feel like removing the knuckle. The rear trailing arms bushings can be just popped in once you sand, clean, and lube the bore.

The front control arm donut bushings that are currently in the arms will have a 1-2mm thick steel retaining ring inside the control arm. You will need to hack-saw a slice out of it to remove tension but not into the control arm and then you can hammer it out with a chisel or screwdriver, before sanding and lubing the bore to slip the bushings in.

Preferably the type that lets 6"+ of blade stick out in front of the saw-frame, that way you can cut through it really quick. Harbor freight sells mini saw blade holders along with 10 packs of 12"x18 TPI blades for like $10 total, get sandpaper as well to clean up the bores after the old rubber is gone.

Your car will steer much more precisely and be a lot less sloppy when doing so after it's done.

 

[hevster1]

Do you use impact sockets mostly for suspension work, or are there other automotive uses?

What do you think about saving money and getting 3/8" drive shallow impact sockets instead of 1/2" drive?

Here's a link in particular:

3/8 in. Drive Metric Impact Socket Set, 8 Piece

Amazing deals on this 8Pc 3/8In Dr Metric Impact Socket Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I already have a 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter to use these sockets with a 1/2" drive impact, but a set of thirteen 1/2" is only $20 at Harbor Freight:

1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Socket Set, 13 Piece

Amazing deals on this 13Pc 1/2In Dr Metric Impact Socket Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Along these lines, what are your thoughts about different brands of impact sockets?

Thanks

I mainly use Snap-on as I am a professional. For the home user HF should work fine. Generally impact sockets are slightly thicker and may pose a clearance issue. Otherwise you should have no problem with them. As far as using 3/8 over 1/2, it depends on what you're using them for. I realize that people here like to tinker with their vehicles but that's becoming harder and harder with the advent of ADAS systems etc. Don't overspend on tools unless you plan on becoming a professional someday.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I mainly use Snap-on as I am a professional. For the home user HF should work fine. Generally impact sockets are slightly thicker and may pose a clearance issue. Otherwise you should have no problem with them. As far as using 3/8 over 1/2, it depends on what you're using them for. I realize that people here like to tinker with their vehicles but that's becoming harder and harder with the advent of ADAS systems etc. Don't overspend on tools unless you plan on becoming a professional someday.

I agree I am a professional myself and I use some Harbor Freight stuff but Snap-on and Matco and Mac and SK are usually my go to’s for Tools because some tools at Harbor Freight are absolute junk the sockets though are good

 

[hevster1]

You will need to hack-saw a slice out of it to remove tension but not into the control arm and then you can hammer it out with a chisel or screwdriver, before sanding and lubing the bore to slip the bushings in.

A press is always helpful and the correct method. After removal perhaps a visit to the local shop is in order?

 

[CamryFL]

Local trusted shop did exactly that last year w/ the pass. CV axle carrier bracket w/ stuck CV bearing: 2 days of pushing, prying, and pounding moved the bearing a total of one quarter of an inch in the carrier: finally said "enough of this", used a cut-off wheel to slice the CV shafts off on either side / took the carrier assembly to said local trusted shop, and in less than 10 minutes ... the bearing was pressed out.

Excellent advice there hevster1, Thanks.