Hi there. I pulled everything off to check it out. The oil pump gear turns freely along with the new water pump gear. The idler pulley turns well, the tensioner pulley doesn't turn as freely as the idler pulley, but it turns. BTW, the slot on the new tensioner pulley is just as long on the lower side of the pulley as it is on the old one. So it does come up just as far as the old one when the spring snaps it up. But I can't push it down as far as when I want to remove the belt from the tensioner pulley.
When I release the tensioner and tighten it down, I notice that the belt gets tighter when the engine rotates and it stays tight. I really thought I had it tight enough today. I guess not.
John, you said this:
"When doing the tensioning the instruction is to loosen by 1/2 turn. But I'd make sure the tensioner can move freely and is not bottomed out in the shorter slot as you mentioned."
John, as to the above quote, I haven't loosened the tensioner 1/2 when I tension it. I just tensioned it with the tensioner tightened down. 1/2 turn looser from what? Full torque down?
I don't have a torque wrench. I tightened the pulleys with my ratchet wrench. Should I get a torque wrench that clicks? Being a woman, I am not that strong, but the bolts seem pretty tight. My neighbor has volunteered to tighten anything down for me that i can't get tight enough. If they aren't torqued down could that cause a slip of the belt. The bolt seems tight on the tensioner when I go to remove the belt and have to loosen it and push it down.
The cam does take an effort to turn, and then it will suddenly lurch forward. I will do what you suggested and take the spark plugs out and make sure the cam turns smoothly.
The timing belt seems fine. No damage. How do I know if I have the right belt? Napa sold me a Napa belt made by Gates. The model number is 250199. It is slightly shorter than the Mitsiboshi belt.
I will double check the routing, but it really only goes on one way. I have a picture of how it is supposed to look.
Thank you so much!!!