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Workin Toy
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Discussion Starter #1
There seems to be a bunch of guys with coolant and/or head gasket problems lately. I'm glad I'm not alone :D.

Most guys seem to get head gaskets that fail on cylinders #2 and #3, however mine failed on #1 and #4 but looked like it was spreading to #2 also judging by the carbon burn off from those cylinders. I found most of my coolant ducts were clogged at the head gasket where I had problems. They both leaked on the exhaust side, on the rings, they bubbled and seperated and seemed to leak in that way. The block appears to be un-warped and crack free so I'm in good shape there. I de-sludged the cylinder head, rocker arm assembly and valve cover, and I'm soaking the head bolts overnight. 2 bolts were damn near impossible to remove, they had large amounts of sludge on them and jammed when we tried to pull them through the rocker arm assembly. I also cleaned out the ducts with compressed air and I will give it a good flush when everything is back together.

I also found rub marks from the timing chain on the valve cover, I was a bit surprised because the guy I bought it from said it had the timing chain job done. I have yet to determine if they're old marks or new, I suspect new because there was no sludge on them. The chain was very tight, no noticeable play. Is there anyway to test the guides? Also I'm short on time so I would like to button this up tomorrow because of the impending snow storm, if I have to do the timing chain/guides can it be done by just pulling the valve cover? or do I have to strip it down like it is now again?

many thanks, I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow.
 

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from my experiance with the head gaskets it is a real pain to do just removint the valve cover but i guess it could be done. i had to take of my valve cover to move my chain 1 tooth. it sucked but i got it. had to have a freind put tension on the guid so i could monuver to chain. if i was you i would just put new guides on it while its apart snow storm or not. how many time do you really want to take this thing apart? hardest part i had trouble with was taking to intake manifold off and on. jap arms are alot smaller than american arms.
 

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BSDeality said:
There seems to be a bunch of guys with coolant and/or head gasket problems lately. I'm glad I'm not alone :D.

Most guys seem to get head gaskets that fail on cylinders #2 and #3, however mine failed on #1 and #4 but looked like it was spreading to #2 also judging by the carbon burn off from those cylinders. I found most of my coolant ducts were clogged at the head gasket where I had problems. They both leaked on the exhaust side, on the rings, they bubbled and seperated and seemed to leak in that way. The block appears to be un-warped and crack free so I'm in good shape there. I de-sludged the cylinder head, rocker arm assembly and valve cover, and I'm soaking the head bolts overnight. 2 bolts were damn near impossible to remove, they had large amounts of sludge on them and jammed when we tried to pull them through the rocker arm assembly. I also cleaned out the ducts with compressed air and I will give it a good flush when everything is back together.

I also found rub marks from the timing chain on the valve cover, I was a bit surprised because the guy I bought it from said it had the timing chain job done. I have yet to determine if they're old marks or new, I suspect new because there was no sludge on them. The chain was very tight, no noticeable play. Is there anyway to test the guides? Also I'm short on time so I would like to button this up tomorrow because of the impending snow storm, if I have to do the timing chain/guides can it be done by just pulling the valve cover? or do I have to strip it down like it is now again?

many thanks, I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow.
I know you want to have her ready for the storm but I suggest you slow down just a bit.

First, the headbolts are not meant to be re-used. Get new ones. If you are lucky, you may be able to get them at the dealer. They are "torque to yield" bolts meaning they can only be torqued once.

Next, you should check the head (or have it checked) with a machinest's straight edge to be sure there isn't any warpage. That is where you would see it since they are aluminum. Many times, head gaskets are caused by an overheating incident which can easily cause warpage.

And last, the guy may very well have had the chain done but did not replace the guides; or replaced the guides but after the chain began wearing the cover. If the guide is intact then it was probably replaced. However, I would get a steel drivers side rail for it while you have it apart. Otherwise you will be back in there at some point because of a broken plastic guide.

You can handle shoveling once a year can't you? :lol:
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
maxpower_hd said:
I know you want to have her ready for the storm but I suggest you slow down just a bit.

First, the headbolts are not meant to be re-used. Get new ones. If you are lucky, you may be able to get them at the dealer. They are "torque to yield" bolts meaning they can only be torqued once.

Next, you should check the head (or have it checked) with a machinest's straight edge to be sure there isn't any warpage. That is where you would see it since they are aluminum. Many times, head gaskets are caused by an overheating incident which can easily cause warpage.

And last, the guy may very well have had the chain done but did not replace the guides; or replaced the guides but after the chain began wearing the cover. If the guide is intact then it was probably replaced. However, I would get a steel drivers side rail for it while you have it apart. Otherwise you will be back in there at some point because of a broken plastic guide.

You can handle shoveling once a year can't you? :lol:
Re: shovel. Hah. ya. I'll shovel all my driveways I have to maintain. and I'll pull my de-icing unit on a big red wagon to treat them before the storm too. :lol:

i will call in the head bolts and the timing chain guides right now. we've got a great parts store in Danbury that carries almost everything.

I did check it with a straight edge and feeler, although not a machinest's.
 

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As long as the straight edge is truely straight you should be fine. Warpage usually only happens if it overheats. If it didn't then you should be OK.

I didn't realize you were plowing the entire town.:lol: I thought I read in one of your other threads that you only did two driveways in your neighborhood. Maybe you should think about getting a bigger rig.:eek:
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
nah, I do about half a dozen now. the toy is more nimble than the big trucks for the driveways. In a parking lot a big truck is definitely the way to go, however for tight areas you can't beat the Toy or a Jeep.

Just got back from the parts store, picked up a set of chain guides, head bolts, new feeler gauge set. Heading downstairs for the surgery now.
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well... the truck runs again. I had it going by dinner time, but developed a leak from one of the heater lines. turns out I forgot to tighten the bolts under the intake chamber. no problem. I can squeeze a hand in there with the smallest wrench I own and tight it up. Then out of nowhere the damn thing snaps! I seem to have this gift of snapping bolts on this motor. Both times I have snapped bolts the motor has been hot, so from now on, I don't plan on working on anything unless the motor is completely cool. I will have to take it apart next week and get that bolt out. But for now I siliconed and c-clamped it to make it through the storm! Everything else is holding, running great (even without messing around with the timing yet). I did breathe a huge sigh of relief when it started up
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Here are some pictures of what I found.

Clogged cooling ports galore!





I found split rings on the head gasket on cylinders #1 and #4 both on the exhaust side.


More clogged cooling ports, this time the clog stuck to the head gasket.
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
the mighty c-clamp has held so far. Did about 3 hours worth of plowing yesterday and 2 today. I had to travel out of town last night, got back today around 2 and had to go do some plowing for people that didn't get done yesterday by their normal guys. I just parked it and will be out of town for the holiday weekend. when I come back I will tear into it to repair that bolt and I also have to replace all the o-rings on the injectors (or just replace the injectors). I'm leaking gas like a mo-fo right now.
 

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Workin Toy
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I tore into it again yesterday. Had to take the intake chamber and manifold off, replace those gaskets again, drill out the bolt, re-tap and go. fixed I replaced the o-rings on the injectors, so far so good. Here is a picture of the c-clamp fix.

 

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wow your a handy guy.. shit my motor as been down and out for almost a year now.. hard to find good ppl to work on your stuff..

i am totally new to this.. so i have done lots of reading and this forum helps A TON.. but its the common knowledge things i lack.. and i would rather have somone show me first.. so i will be confident enough to do my own thing...
 

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'95 Toyota 4x4 xcab
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The head bolts on the 22re are not TTY bolts and are reuseable... The 3vze's have the TTY bolts in them from what I understand. Very few people buy new bolts for the 22re and I have yet to hear of any failing from being reused.
 
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