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I can't get my 2002 Highlander drive cycle to complete. The CAT and EVAP cycle simply refuse to complete. This started with the OBDII throwing a bad knock sensor code. I replaced both sensors and the harness with after market parts and cleared codes. But after 500 miles the cycles still wouldn't complete. Then an 02 sensor went bad. I replaced it with genuine Toyota parts. After 800 miles still the two cycle wouldn't complete. I took it to a shop and they said to replace the EVAP solenoid purge valve. I paid the shop to replace it. After 600 miles the two cycles still wouldn't complete and knock sensor error code came back. I paid a shop to replace both sensors and the harness with genuine Toyota parts. I drove it another 600 miles and still EVAP and CAT won't complete their cycle. The shop, which is an expensive and reputable shop, threw their hands up and said take it to the dealer they have no idea what to do. Anyone have any knowledge on how to fix this? I have tried multiple different guides that say how to drive to complete the cycles and none have worked. I would be grateful for any suggestions. I am thinking it needs a new catalytic converter but I don't want to spend that money if I don't have to. Thanks everyone.
 

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I have seen published documents that explain what the drive cycle is that must be done to reset the codes. It involves a certain number of starts, accelerations, stops, etc. See if you can find that, and complete the drive cycle.
 

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The EVAP system only activates when you have more than 1/4 and less than 3/4 fuel in the fuel tank and after 8 hours after the vehicle has been shut off. The catalytic converter will eventually run its test after a very good drive at normal operating temperature. Ensure there are no codes. Those are the two "basic" Toyota Emission Readiness Procedures. Otherwise having access to a TechStream might help.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have seen published documents that explain what the drive cycle is that must be done to reset the codes. It involves a certain number of starts, accelerations, stops, etc. See if you can find that, and complete the drive cycle.
I have tried these types of lists. I tried a couple different ones that say they are for Toyotas in my model year range. None of them have worked.
The EVAP system only activates when you have more than 1/4 and less than 3/4 fuel in the fuel tank and after 8 hours after the vehicle has been shut off. The catalytic converter will eventually run its test after a very good drive at normal operating temperature. Ensure there are no codes. Those are the two "basic" Toyota Emission Readiness Procedures. Otherwise having access to a TechStream might help.

Yes, I have done these. I drove it in between 1/4 and 3/4 tank and allowed it to reset overnight in that range and at the proper ambient temperature range. I have done this multiple times to no avail.
Since the last reset I have driven it in city and took a 2hour highway drive one day and did it again the day after and the CAT will not complete the cycle.
Did they use OBD mode 6 to see what is failing?
I don't know if they used that mode. But this is a good quality shop with the latest equipment and their scanners found no errors. I left it with them for a day and they attempted to complete the drive cycles and failed. They told me to take it to the dealership because they are stumped.
 

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Then it may mean a TechStream is required. As always, confirm there are no codes and no codes pending.
 

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Check ECM voltage and ground and engine grounds. Go back to the shop and ask to see the mode 6 data. If they give you a blank stare then you need to find an auto electric shop that specializes in diagnostics.
My recommendation is to get a Bluetooth scanner that will access live data and mode 6 and look for yourself and tell us what you find. For these Highlanders I like the OBDLINK MX+ with OBD Fusion app and vehicle specific extended PID package, but the app that come with OBDLINK may be adequate for this. They have changed it since I bought mine, so I am not sure if you need the separate app or not.
 

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Check ECM voltage and ground and engine grounds. Go back to the shop and ask to see the mode 6 data. If they give you a blank stare then you need to find an auto electric shop that specializes in diagnostics.
My recommendation is to get a Bluetooth scanner that will access live data and mode 6 and look for yourself and tell us what you find. For these Highlanders I like the OBDLINK MX+ with OBD Fusion app and vehicle specific extended PID package, but the app that come with OBDLINK may be adequate for this. They have changed it since I bought mine, so I am not sure if you need the separate app or not.
OBDLINK itself has that capability. The main difference is just what the vehicle itself has to offer since it is a 2002 and not a post-CANBUS. Vehicle diagnosis, people wonder why it cost a lot. This is why it cost a lot.
 

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I will check my 2001 to see what shows up for mode 5 and mode 6 but I think I’ve looked at it before.
 

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Drive cycles are one of the most confusing things. It is always assumed that it is the driving cycle that is the most important element, but that is not always the case. For the Evap mode, you have to let it cold soak for 8 hours, as you know. Then:
Release the pressure in the fuel tank by removing and then reinstalling the fuel tank cap.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until ECT (Coolant Temp) is 167F (75C) or greater. (See illustration on previous page.)
Race the engine at 3,000 rpm for approximately 10 seconds. (See illustration on previous page.)
Allow the engine to idle with the A/C ON (to create a slight load) for 15 – 50 minutes. (See illustration on previous page.)

I have been there and done this. On certain vehicles, you can drive it till the wheels fall off, but if you want to set the monitor, you must let it idle to temp first. And in this case, driving will do you no good. Try it. You won't believe how easy it is.

This also applies to the Catalyst monitor as well, that you must let it idle to full temp before driving it.

Let me know if this does it...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Drive cycles are one of the most confusing things. It is always assumed that it is the driving cycle that is the most important element, but that is not always the case. For the Evap mode, you have to let it cold soak for 8 hours, as you know. Then:
Release the pressure in the fuel tank by removing and then reinstalling the fuel tank cap.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until ECT (Coolant Temp) is 167F (75C) or greater. (See illustration on previous page.)
Race the engine at 3,000 rpm for approximately 10 seconds. (See illustration on previous page.)
Allow the engine to idle with the A/C ON (to create a slight load) for 15 – 50 minutes. (See illustration on previous page.)

I have been there and done this. On certain vehicles, you can drive it till the wheels fall off, but if you want to set the monitor, you must let it idle to temp first. And in this case, driving will do you no good. Try it. You won't believe how easy it is.

This also applies to the Catalyst monitor as well, that you must let it idle to full temp before driving it.

Let me know if this does it...
I'll try this thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Drive cycles are one of the most confusing things. It is always assumed that it is the driving cycle that is the most important element, but that is not always the case. For the Evap mode, you have to let it cold soak for 8 hours, as you know. Then:
Release the pressure in the fuel tank by removing and then reinstalling the fuel tank cap.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until ECT (Coolant Temp) is 167F (75C) or greater. (See illustration on previous page.)
Race the engine at 3,000 rpm for approximately 10 seconds. (See illustration on previous page.)
Allow the engine to idle with the A/C ON (to create a slight load) for 15 – 50 minutes. (See illustration on previous page.)

I have been there and done this. On certain vehicles, you can drive it till the wheels fall off, but if you want to set the monitor, you must let it idle to temp first. And in this case, driving will do you no good. Try it. You won't believe how easy it is.

This also applies to the Catalyst monitor as well, that you must let it idle to full temp before driving it.

Let me know if this does it...
:( It didn't work. All I did was spook the computer and made it throw pending EVAP codes.
 

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:( It didn't work. All I did was spook the computer and made it throw pending EVAP codes.
If it set pending codes, it did work. When the monitor runs, it checks the system. If it does not run, it does not check the system. The reason the pending codes are set is because.... there is a problem. You were looking for it to set the monitor and go, but the monitor ran and found problems. You'll need to fix the problem before continuing.

I don't know where you are located, but here in NC you can have one un-set monitor and still pass emission requirements, if that is your goal. I didn't give the whole drive cycle for the catalyst, because usually slowly varying the speed in the 45 to 55 range without full throttle will cause the monitor to run. If you can successfully cause it to run by letting it idle until at normal temp and then driving it, you could clear the codes, get all the monitors to set except the EVAP, and go have it inspected. IF that is your goal, of course. If you just want them done, then you need to fix the EVAP issue.

What was the EVAP code?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got it to smog. I'm in NV so Im allowed to Have the EVAP monitor not work but u must have CAT and all other drive cycles complete. I did another round of drive cycle list maneuvers with all electronics off (headlights, radio, phone chargers, etc) and I got the CAT to cycle. I don't know if it was a coincidence, I didn't do the drive cycle maneuvers quite right in the previous several attempts, or if the electronics being off actually mattered but it worked. Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pending codes are P0440 (EVAP emissions system), and P0446 (EVAP vent control circuit). I'm pretty sure the only reason it threw pending codes is because I opened the fuel cap after it was warmed up and still running and it detected the leak. I JUST had the solenoid purge valve replaced. should I try again after a cold soaked and open the cap and put it back on before starting and warming it up?
 

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Yes. The P0440 is a very big leak, and the cap is a big suspect. The P0446 will sometimes set with a 440 because the system tries to vacuum the system down, doesn't see a reaction (because of the big leak....) and so it thinks the control is bad also. I would clear the codes and recheck for sure before doing any other repairs.
 

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My evap leak was caused by the gas tank top vent housing. Had a hairline crack. I had to release the tank straps on one end, and the tank hung just far enough down to R&R the plastic assy WITH a new rubber grommet.
 

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Diver Dave, out of curiosity, do you remember what the code was for your problem? I would be surprised if it was P0440, as that is usually for a larger leak.
 
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