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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got tired of having my rear drums fade and vibrate during not-so-hard braking ...

So yesterday I installed used disk brakes form a '00 v6 on my '00 LE 4cyl. The car already had the v6-sized brakes in the front from the factory, btw.

I only finished the passenger side for now, but could not wait and post a pic :D

Here is a link to the parts list (scroll down to my post)

http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18410

In addition to what I wrote there, here's some more info (two things I was not sure about till I took the car apart):
- the parking brake cables for disks are different (on the side where it attaches to the parking brake)
- the brake lines are also different

It took me about 5 hours to do the first side alone, since I needed to be careful - first time I take off the entire brakes and wheel hubs. Will probably finish the other side tomorrow (hopefully for less than 3 hours since I know what to do this time around).

I tested the car with one drum and one disk on the rear and everything seems to work just fine (the rear brakes don't do much work and I figured the ABS will take care of any small imbalance, so it felt safe enough).

Only one negative observation so far - the disk brake's parking brake seems to be weaker than the drum, but this is expected, as the parking brake on the drum uses full-sized shoes, about 3 times the area of the parking brake in the disk brake.

I'll post the write-up and some more detailed driving impressions later.

The pic below shows the new disk backing plate and brake installed with the old drum brake still attached by the brake cable.

The next picture shows the finished brake

:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pics...

New disk backing plate installed. The old drum brake is still attached to the parking brake cable ...

The second picture shows the finished disk brake.
 

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That is very good!!!. I would like to do a conversion like that also. Is there is differance between the V6 & I4 rears?? Seems like all you need to do is adjust the parking brake cable for more of a good feel!! Four wheel disks always respond better than disk/drums.
 

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are you just doing this for looks? Because the rear brakes only account for about 75% of braking, unless you have EFBD... which u dont.... But good job none the less. But dont expect much improvement performance wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2000CamryLEV6 said:
are you just doing this for looks? Because the rear brakes only account for about 75% of braking, unless you have EFBD... which u dont.... But good job none the less. But dont expect much improvement performance wise.
I think the rears do no more than about 25% of the braking - so I do not expect much improvement, if any, in braking power. That's why I also did not go for fancy rotors (I don't race my car, so stock is OK).

My rear drim brakes have been vibrating and fading noticeably even under moderate braking, especially downhill, or when the car is loaded - that's mostly why I decided to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
UltraslowSolara said:
Very nice!!! You had shown us that it is possible to do the swap. Are you sure you have everythig we need in the list http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18410? because i am going to duplicated your steps after my summer school is over.

Good job!
Yup - that's all. Only thing missing is I think the thread-locking compound - very useful IMO.

The tools are nothing special, just a good assortment of sockets with extensions (you need the extension because some things get in the way) and open-ended wrenches. You will likely need both 1/2 and 3/4 sockets, because there are a couple of tight spots where my 1/2" could not fit and I had to use the 3/4 which has a smaller head. A torque wrench is very important IMO as well.

I just finished the driver side today too and it seems fine for now. Still need to test drive more, but this is it. I used 3 diagrams from the factory manual (got some from AllData) with pics of the caliper, parking brake and the wheel hub with all torque specs. Plus my Heynes manual had the instructions on how to adjust the parking brake.

I'll write-up everything and post a tutorial with more pics shortly. But the one on smellytofy.com (link can be found on this site somewhere) is good enough - not much has changed apparently over the years. I did not take off the axel carrier as he did though, and I think my way is a bit easier, but you have to do everything on the car this way (as opposed of putting everything together off the car and just attaching the cable and brake lines as he did)...

The second side took me just under 4 hours including the clean-up. This includes a couple of "un-do" steps where I screwed-up by mistake, such as routing the parking brake cable on the wrong side of the control arm and noticing it only after putting everything else together, or not being sure if I torque the hub bolts after I put on the caliper (so I had to undo half the install to check and see that I did it)...

It is not a difficult job but using a check-list will definitely help.

So, If I had to do it again, I could probably do it for about 5 hours for both sides on my own, with no power tools or a lift.

Either way, these are the brakes and wheel hubs being completely removed, so one better knows what one's doing before starting.
 

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kocho, good job on the conversion. Have you tested out the ABS system after the conversion.

The reason i see for a needed switch is that discs has a longer service life, and well all know drum brakes are a bitch to service.
 

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i'd be interested to read up on your step-by-step guide. i've been thinking of doing this conversion as well. wish i had a garage though. if i'm able to get a hold of all the parts then i might be able to do it on a weekend visit to my parent's place.


-rayray
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
VVT-i Owns said:
kocho, good job on the conversion. Have you tested out the ABS system after the conversion.
I have not tested it, but it should not be affected - I did not touch the sensor at all. Will give it a try next time I get a rainy day...
 

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good job!

Wow, good work on the conversion. Can't wait to see your tutorial on it. I'm glad that all your research and planning paid off. :)
 

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Great job :thumbup: Very interested in reading about the step by step intruction.

Question: Have you notice that the front disc seem to develope rust as soon the the weather is a bit dam? I had a 2000 I4 and even after I drove it, if it rain the next day or humid, the disc seem to turn rusty. Is this bad, should I get a different disc? The disc now is OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
T2000 said:
Great job :thumbup: Very interested in reading about the step by step intruction.

Question: Have you notice that the front disc seem to develope rust as soon the the weather is a bit dam? I had a 2000 I4 and even after I drove it, if it rain the next day or humid, the disc seem to turn rusty. Is this bad, should I get a different disc? The disc now is OEM.
Yes - rust is normal. As long as you drive regularly it should not be an issue. You can get your disks custom plated or get ones that have anti-rust coating, which might help. OEM is fine for the most part, so unless it is worn, don't worry about little rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tutorial published - check it out

I put together a quick write-up of how I did it. If you are interested, download the PDF from my Yahoo GeoCities page.

I'm not sure if the link is going to work, since I have not used this service before. Let me know how it goes and if you can download the file (1.2 MB approx.)

http://www.geocities.com/kocho_chestimenski/camry.html

or directly at

http://www.geocities.com/kocho_chestimenski/instructions.pdf

Let me know if you need more info. If I update the content for some reason, I'll let you guys know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
drewscam said:
nice job, any more pics of ur car, besides rim shots
I un-lowered it a couple of months ago. Now it has OEM springs and Tokico struts, kept the rims too. It's all stock otherwise, so not much to show... :)
 
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