Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
after loosening the two bolts from the back of the intake manifold, how do I possibly get to that threaded nut at the bottom the the egr valve?!? I need to clean it and check the hoses and the modulator filters as well

thx
 

·
NYR
Joined
·
509 Posts
MattSWE said:
after loosening the two bolts from the back of the intake manifold, how do I possibly get to that threaded nut at the bottom the the egr valve?!? I need to clean it and check the hoses and the modulator filters as well

thx
Easy!
I just did this 2 weeks ago.
Remove the two bolts that hold the egr, then undo the large nut that holds the egr valve tube at the BOTTOM of the tube NOT the top that connects to the egr valve. There's a bracket that has to be removed to access this nut, but it's easy to remove it, only 2 screws hold the bracket down(I forget which bracket it is, but it's really easy stuff). So you should remove the egr tube with the egr valve as one piece, it's so much easier that way, + you can clean the tube as well this way!
When the egr valve/tube is removed, make sure you clean out the gunk of carbon that's most likely going to be wedged where the egr bolts into the fuel plenium:clap:
good luck and let us know how it worked out for you!

IvanHoe
 

·
ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
Joined
·
368 Posts
When you reassemble the tube, use anti-seize compound on the threads (I use the gray pasty stuff from Permatex, but any brand, including C5A copper-colored compund will do).
 

·
NYR
Joined
·
509 Posts
timebuilder said:
When you reassemble the tube, use anti-seize compund (I use the gray pasty stuff from Permatex, but anything, including C5A copper-colored compund will do).
I forgot all about that. Oh well, I guess it doesnt matter for me at this point :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
sweet

thx guys, hopefully, I'll get a chance to do it tonight. I'll trace down to where the tube ends and unscrew whatever bracket is there and also the nut holding the tube on.
 

·
NYR
Joined
·
509 Posts
MattSWE said:
thx guys, hopefully, I'll get a chance to do it tonight. I'll trace down to where the tube ends and unscrew whatever bracket is there and also the nut holding the tube on.
Trust me, it's really easy once your doing it. It will come natural to you what to do once your in front of the engine with tools in hand.

IvanHoe
 

·
Grenaded piston
Joined
·
6,523 Posts
MattSWE said:
I'll trace down to where the tube ends and unscrew whatever bracket is there and also the nut holding the tube on.
The tube screws onto the back of the cylinder head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,115 Posts
It is the best to remove the EGR parts when engine is SLIGHTLY warm (not HOT).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,531 Posts
If you haven't put it back together yet reassure yourself by looking down the tube to make sure that it too is unobstructed. When I did mine the rubber hose on the bottom of the EGR valve was full of carbon. For what it is worth, I ended up using a small screw driver and a pick to clean the crud out. The spray cleaners never touched it.

While you're in the neighborhood, consider cleaning the idle air control valve (IAC) too.

Kep
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
dammit

cleaning the IAC on the vehicle didn't do jack shit, tonight im yanking the IAC and EGR and cleaning the hell outta both of em

im also gonna speay the connectors on the IAC as well, gotta have a clean connection ya know
 

·
ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
Joined
·
368 Posts
PLEASE...use CRC lectra-motive spray on the electrical connectors. You don't want to make problems.

When you say the cleaning didn't do jack, what outcome were you specifically looking for?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top