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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone! Been on the forums here for a bit since I own a couple of other old Toyotas.

One of my friends works a job where he visits car dealerships all around our local area, and one of the dealerships he frequents received a trade-in 91 Camry DX on monday. He let me know immediately because he knows my interests; and so here we are.

280 thousand miles, one owner. Undercoated and was driven to and from Florida countless times. From what I was told, it was garage kept; and it does have a nice cover in the trunk. Sadly I cannot continue to garage park it :(
I don't think the cover is weather-proof so I'll have to get a new cover to keep it nice. Hopefully I'll have a garage by this time next year.

The paint is absolutely fantastic for the mileage, and age. The interior is almost spotless, a few stains and dirt collected in crevices and corners; but otherwise is immaculate. It has Highlander floor mats for some reason, so I'll do something about that. And the center console thing that flips up, the hinge is busted or something cause it flops around once opened.
It has a bumper bra on it, which I almost want to keep just for the sake of the previous owner's meticulous care for the car. But I notice that the bra obscures part of the front turn signals, so it needs removed for safety reasons; not to mention I personally don't like their looks.

The dealership gave me a carfax report, which has good info on some of the service history. The rest of the service history seems to be in the glove box but I have not gone through it yet. They also replaced the rear wheel cylinders for a supposed brake fluid leak, and flushed the brake fluid. They also did the standard oil change.
The car did fantastic on the two hour drive home, no CEL, no weird noises, and cruise control works. A nice quiet ride, newer tires, and the alignment is good; suspension does squeak on some bumps but it feels confident.
There is a lot of vibration, I bet the motor mounts need replaced; wouldn't hurt to do trans mounts too.

After driving it to work today and finally getting to look at it under the light of day, there is definitely some work to be done.
-I noticed immediately that the brakes are still way too soft despite the wheel cylinder replacements and fluid flush. If my experience with my Previa tells me anything, it needs new front calipers and it will stiffen up immediately. And since I'm there, may as well replace the rotor and pads. I'll make sure to check the hoses before I order parts.
-The power steering fluid looks dark, but the classic yellowed reservoir doesn't really give you the best indication. I will flush it out regardless because the steering does feel funky near full lock and I can hear a hint of some whining from up front on acceleration; definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side. It could be the alternator though, as the lights dim a little bit at idle; had a similar problem on my Corolla before the alternator started whining like a supercharger and begged for mercy. But we'll see, its too early to tell since I don't know much about the car yet.
-I noticed this afternoon that the coolant reservoir was bone dry. Engine was hot so couldn't check the radiator, but made an educated guess and added some spare Red 50/50. Temp gauge has read just under half the whole time I've driven it thus far, and I have not heard, seen, or felt any indication of overheating. But being low on coolant would definitely explain why it warmed up so fast this morning lol.

Now, onto the issues that it has outside of the mechanical problems I have noticed.
-The rear power windows do not work. From what I have seen here in this section of the forum, should be pretty easy to fix. Wouldn't surprise me if some wires are broken in the door at this mileage.
-The driver's automatic seatbelt shudders a little when it retracts to let you out of the car. Not sure if I can just lubricate this?
-The shift interlock seems stuck/broken. I have to use the override to shift out of park, and idk if its supposed to force me to use the button to remove the key every time or just if the interlock is active. Not sure how to proceed troubleshooting/fixing as the brake lights function and the warning light on the dash does not light up.
-The car is equipped with the factory alarm system and it tries to go off every time I open the door. Ideally I'd wire it in such a way that I could arm and disarm it easily. Right now I've been keeping it from going off by getting in and turning the key to 'on' as fast as possible.
-The dealership said that the sunroof moves, but it "shakes" and they didn't want it to get stuck so didn't open it very far. Since its winter I don't care too much, but I would like it fully functional eventually; and obviously not leak. It did rain today and I did not see any signs of water inside, so I think we're good there, hopefully.
-Lots of burnt out and super dim old lights on the inside. My friend said my headlights are too high on the way back, but aiming them should be easy. I already found the thread on LED conversion, which is excellent. I wish other forums had a nice detailed thread like that! Only real questions are "how to get to things without breaking anything?" But most of it should be relatively easy to figure out, and there may be threads out there already I can read through.
-My hood support rod is messed up. Where it is supposed to pivot on the radiator support, it just falls right though. It rests on a harness underneath and the hood is steady, but I don't want to rub through or puncture anything. I will have to take a picture of it. There is an 87 at my local junkyard, hopefully it has a rod; but the rad support also looks messed up so I'm not sure how much good a new rod will do. I'm open for other ideas as well, maybe there's a hood shock conversion?
-Edit: AC doesn't work. Considering the condition of the car, I think its probably just low on charge. Likely has a slow leak due to age. My RX-7 is like that, it was dead on arrival, but has held a charge surprisingly well for just over 2 years.

I plan to simply continue taking care of it, and continue putting miles on it. It is an excellent cruiser and very comfortable.
I will probably swap the (in my opinion) hideous newer radio for something more period correct, or even an OEM Toyota unit of some kind. I have a spare tape deck from a XV20 of the same style as my Corolla's original tape deck (and what the Previa should have if it was stock) that I could try. Or do what I've done for the Previa and my RX-7, find some nice 90s head unit on eBay and wire it up. No idea if the speakers are aftermarket or not, but they sound great.
I will also be installing some 80s style fog lights in the near future. Since my car is fwd, I have some switch blanks to the right of the steering column that I plan too put the switch in. For the curious, I will be installing amber Sylvania Quartz Halogen fog lights; I have the clear lens versions on both my RX-7 and the Previa, they are very nice units.
I won't be surprised if I'm in for a timing job before too long, but I need to see what records I have in the glovebox before I mentally prepare myself for that job.
I have already ordered a FSM and a wiring diagram book on eBay.

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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but made an educated guess and added some spare Red 50/50.
The car was made before Toyota Red, so make sure you aren't mixing red with green.
The car is equipped with the factory alarm system
No it isn't. No such thing. May have been port or dealer installed. Just get under the dash and remove it.
The shift interlock seems stuck/broken. I have to use the override to shift out of park, and idk if its supposed to force me to use the button to remove the key every time or just if the interlock is active. Not sure how to proceed troubleshooting/fixing as the brake lights function and the warning light on the dash does not light up.
The button on the top of the steering wheel must be used every time to remove the key, nothing broken there. Odd that the brake lights are working but the shift interlock isn't. That'll be interesting to debug. The shift lock computer is part of the shifter mechanism inside the car.
My hood support rod is messed up. Where it is supposed to pivot on the radiator support, it just falls right though.
The rubber bushing is probably gone. Rod is likely fine, but I think the bushing is out of production. You can probably find a junkyard part that will work well enough in its place to hold the end of the rod.
or even an OEM Toyota unit of some kind
Toyota OEM radios up until the mid '00's should fit just fine. Make sure the amp is integrated since there isn't much room back there.

-Charlie
 
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Vintage Toyotas FTW

Looks fantastically clean for its age and mileage!
 

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Love the colour so much. Ideally find an LE junker with the same interior colour so you get the upgraded seats, door panels and instrument cluster. Might be time to replace the radiator they are very durable but eventually start to seep coolant.

The hold down for the throttle cable on the right hand side is either upside down or bent. I think I see the rubber plug missing on the top of the throttle body.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The car was made before Toyota Red, so make sure you aren't mixing red with green.
Yes. I filled the reservoir and came back once the engine cooled down to check the radiator. My hunch was right and it was red.
I drove it around a bit more and the reservoir level went down further, so I topped it off again.
Perhaps 71Corolla is on to something with a leaky radiator, but we'll just have to see.

No it isn't. No such thing. May have been port or dealer installed. Just get under the dash and remove it.
Copy that. Is it simply unplugged, or will it involve rewiring?

The button on the top of the steering wheel must be used every time to remove the key, nothing broken there. Odd that the brake lights are working but the shift interlock isn't. That'll be interesting to debug. The shift lock computer is part of the shifter mechanism inside the car.
The key button I figured was fine, just not sure since its the first car I've driven with such a "feature." I suppose the interlock is something to check when I get under the shifter to replace the bulbs in the center console.

The rubber bushing is probably gone. Rod is likely fine, but I think the bushing is out of production. You can probably find a junkyard part that will work well enough in its place to hold the end of the rod.
Yea looks to me that way. I do have a box of rubber grommets that I could try. After fiddling with the rod it sat up normally, just somewhat sketchy since it could slide and fall at any time.

Love the colour so much. Ideally find an LE junker with the same interior colour so you get the upgraded seats, door panels and instrument cluster. Might be time to replace the radiator they are very durable but eventually start to seep coolant.

The hold down for the throttle cable on the right hand side is either upside down or bent. I think I see the rubber plug missing on the top of the throttle body.
The junkyard car near here is blue with blue interior, not sure of the trim. Pretty sure I've seen it around when hunting for Corolla parts in the past. Sadly no other junkyard I know of has any second gen Camrys. All the cars listed for sale are complete and not horrible, plus I have nowhere to put a parts car anyway.
As mentioned, I topped off the coolant completely now that's been two drive cycles. We will see how much it drinks over time, if any.

Do you mean the cruise control cable? Or something else? I'm not 100% what's what in there yet. I do think I see the missing plug spot, that will be interesting to cap off.



It did finally stop raining today and I did replace a couple of bulbs. I got the rear markers changed out, and the trunk light. I have front marker leds, but I believe the bra is in the way of removing the lamp housing. I was definitely not expecting the funky tail lamp socket design. The Sylvania bulbs that shine light down towards the socket seem to work ok in the outboard brake lights, but after I saw how the inboard ones are setup, I just left the halogens in there. Shining light towards the socket with no reflector wouldn't work very well, so I will have to look at alternative 1157R bulbs. With the wet pavement its honestly hard to tell the improvement in lighting with just the outboards; but I know that this style of bulb works fantastic in a more traditional housing setup, and Sylvania lights are incredibly high quality with good distinction between running and brake lights (the red is also very deep and natural, rather than leaving you with a pink or washed out appearance). I exclusively use Sylvania wherever possible in most cases.

And to no ones surprise, the brake light check lamp is now on thanks to the LEDs. I believe I saw in another thread while looking around that it can be bypassed, but I'm not sure where the connector is. On my RX-7, the check computer is buried under the dash, so I just pulled the socket out of the cluster instead.

I plan to verify the headlights are too high with a trick I've used to make minor adjustments to headlights in the past. Personally I think the headlights are super dim and effectively useless, but if they are too high then that would make a lot of sense. It probably needs new bulbs regardless. I will be keeping the headlights halogen as I know LED swap can be bad, and I prefer the warmer look to the harsh white light. Looks better on older cars, as conversely I think halogens on new cars looks bad :)

I also need to redo the washer pump hoses. Discovered one had popped loose. Connected it and tried the washer fluid, but it just popped off again when it built pressure. Had to stop for wiper blades in the rain earlier this afternoon as well. I lubricated the hinges for the wiper arms with lithium grease, but I think the blades still screech real bad if the windshield isn't soaked; probably a stiff linkage or something. I did spray some grease at the pivot points hoping that might help.

Not sure how well it really shows on camera, but the inboard lights are more pink-ish and washed out. The outboards use the backwards shining Sylvanias mentioned earlier. I don't think they are ideal for how the housings are designed, but they are definitely brighter and the rich red color is eye pleasing.
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I meant to retake this with the house lights off, but this is comparing the brake lights of the LED to the halogen on the outboard lights. You can also see the nice bright trunk light, lol
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And last but not least, the rear side markers.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Not a huge issue, but I have noticed that the driver's door stopper (the thing that holds it partway open) is very worn in the closer sections; thus the door only holds itself when its all the way open. It looks replaceable to me, but I'd have to peek behind the door panel to check. Definitely something to look at if I get to the junkyard before I try to fix the rear windows.
Edit: idk why this replied to my previous post
 

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I've gone all LED including the headlights which work great, I can't imagine going back to halogens they are very dim and dangerous. The tail lights work fine with most types of LED bulbs the lenticular lenses scatter the light effectively.

I've tried many different LEDs including headlight bulbs these are the two I've settled on

If you don't want to pay that much these are decent maybe 75% of the above

I'll post pics of the marker and tail lights and how I did the LEDs. I took the lamp warning bulb out of the cluster instead of modifying the lamp warning box.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Copy that. Is it simply unplugged, or will it involve rewiring?
Depends. Likely you will have to repair at least one connection, assuming it had a starter interrupt. The rest will be tapped into stock wiring. Make sure the wires are in good shape wherever the taps were applied (I dab a little liquid electrical tape around any removed connections to seal it back up and strengthen the insulation in that location).
I believe I saw in another thread while looking around that it can be bypassed, but I'm not sure where the connector is.
Driver's side of the trunk, behind/above the filler neck. Also where the power antenna would be if you had an LE.

Green to Light Green (tail lights)
Green-White to Green-Red (brake lights)
Yellow, Yellow-Green and White-Black leave alone (power, signal and ground for the box)

Personally I think the headlights are super dim and effectively useless
The 9004 lights are pretty bad. They are basically two spots with a bit of spread to each side. You can get them to work OK if perfectly adjusted while driving on straight flat roads. You should quickly be able to get them aimed pretty well if the roads are dry so you can easily see the beams.

-Charlie
 
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The 9004 lights are pretty bad.
I drove for years with halogens how did I not notice how terrible they were? With modern LED bulbs they are surprisingly good no sharp cut off line like a modern headlight but doesn't blind people either. With the Saber's I linked above my gen2's are now better than the HIDs in my Lexus.
Had to stop for wiper blades in the rain earlier this afternoon as well.
Bought some PIAA blades 3 years ago well worth the price they are still perfect. And they look just like OEM.

So here's some of what did for lighting. I have a custom daytime running light module ('87 never came with one) which also powers the tail lights, in the day the upper portion of the tails are always on as long as the engine is running. More and more new cars have this feature.

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When the running lights are turned on, all sections of the lamp are illuminated. Even though the bottom section is for amber turn signal, it still shines through as red and of course that portion is also for turn signal via a circuit I made.

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This has a switch back function which turns off the red LEDs on the lower section of the lamp so it's only turn signal. I've added T10 sockets this is for the red running lights. I'm running dual mode amber and red 1157's, the bright portion is used when the running lights are off then switches to the low intensity part of the bulb when running lights are on. Otherwise the brake and turn LEDs are way too bright and blind people. But great in the day no missing the turn and especially brake lights. The style LED bulbs you see work well even though it has a projector lens which would seem to be aimed nowhere but doesn't hurt the light pattern.

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The wiring is kinda complicated plus there is a MOSFET and some other components for the switchback function. The inner tail light bulb module was really hard to mod not much room to add the T10's. Too lazy to pull it out and take pictures.

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Front marker lights are also modded, 3 bulbs total two are for DRL function the other is for turn signal.
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I'm running these for reverse lights they could pass for headlights

Bought the last pair of turn signal lamps Rockauto had because they were cheap. TYC, almost exact clones of OEM

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All this modding took many hours but it massively modernizes the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Depends. Likely you will have to repair at least one connection, assuming it had a starter interrupt. The rest will be tapped into stock wiring. Make sure the wires are in good shape wherever the taps were applied (I dab a little liquid electrical tape around any removed connections to seal it back up and strengthen the insulation in that location).
Ok. I believe it does have a starter interrupt as it won't crank if the alarm tripped. Should be easy then, assuming I can get adequate work space under there.

Driver's side of the trunk, behind/above the filler neck. Also where the power antenna would be if you had an LE.

Green to Light Green (tail lights)
Green-White to Green-Red (brake lights)
Yellow, Yellow-Green and White-Black leave alone (power, signal and ground for the box)
Ok, I will attempt to find it. The actual wiring should be really easy.

The 9004 lights are pretty bad. They are basically two spots with a bit of spread to each side. You can get them to work OK if perfectly adjusted while driving on straight flat roads. You should quickly be able to get them aimed pretty well if the roads are dry so you can easily see the beams.
Yes I was planning to take a good look tonight. I wonder if its possible to convert to a different style bulb? I know its possible on the Previa to convert to H4s with a headlight rewiring harness. Use a factory plug for signal and a nice relay setup to give raw fused battery power directly to the lights; and then the plug of your choice for a bulb that fits in the housing. I know the headlight circuit on the van is also trash, grounding the lights in the combination switch of all things....

I drove for years with halogens how did I not notice how terrible they were? With modern LED bulbs they are surprisingly good no sharp cut off line like a modern headlight but doesn't blind people either. With the Saber's I linked above my gen2's are now better than the HIDs in my Lexus.

All this modding took many hours but it massively modernizes the car.
Yea, LEDs are great. The low amp draw is awesome and the brightness is great.
My real issue with LED headlights is the color. I think 6000k just......doesn't fit the style of the car, kinda ricey in my opinion. If there's a quality LED bulb with more of a 3000k color low beam, I would totally do it; assuming it wouldn't blind the hell out of everyone. A lot of that kind of bulb I've seen have 6000k high beam, which I have a weird feeling wouldn't be the most ideal; even though its fine, at least looks wise. I mean, who is running their high beams while parked up at a show?

Cool stuff though. I don't think I could be bothered to get that in depth :)
 

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I thought the same, the general modern look of LEDs would not fit the car but heck no it's all awesome. The LEDs I have are right around 5600K almost pure white with a hint of blue not ricey at all. If you want to keep a retro vibe get some fog lights and run 3000K bulbs. Yellow headlight bulbs just look old and dated, also if you had 3000K with high brightness you'd anger everyone thinking you are shining fog lights in their eyes.

The power saving is very noticeable, car needs it since the stereo is drawing 40+ amps at times. BTW at least one of the bulbs I linked is available in 3000K but that is straight up yellow.
 

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This accurately represents the colour temperature would have been better not against snow but not many places around here without light pollution. Taken at dusk.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah I'm thinking of more of a 4000k color. Very similar to halogens. I'm kind of a stickler for small details, so idk.

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Now, I did find my tail lamp computer connector, but I don't know what pin this is if I'm going to jump wires.....
 

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See this post

If you want 4000K only way you'll get close is with a HID kit. I tried xenon bulbs way back when was not happy with the beam pattern scattered the light too much. Admittedly I had the cheapest bulbs you can buy. I get it why you want a certain colour, when I want things a certain that's how I want it no compromises.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I found a rubber grommet that fit perfectly for the hood support, it is now fully functional.

I lowered the headlight beams, and it has made a significant difference. The low beams could be brighter, but the highbeams are very usable. At a minimum, they are way more effective with a proper beam pattern.
I tried one of the backwards shining LEDs in the inboard tail lights, and it just didn't properly fill the housing. I tried to take a picture, but it wouldn't turn out well on camera. Definitely need to hunt for a quality alternative. Also, one of the reverse lights is burnt out, so those need replaced asap.
Even with just the outboard brake lights being LED, there's a lot of light splash I can see on the ground in my mirrors. Very nice. Also lights up signs way in the distance pretty well.

I'm not prepared to pull the cluster just yet to yoink the bulb, so I want to find pins to use in a jumper harness for the checker computer. I see the link you posted now! Looks like the lower dash has to come apart to disable the alarm. Ideally I'd also at least install the fog light switch and run wire at the same time since it all looks like the whole lower dash portion has to come off to access the switch panels.
See this post

If you want 4000K only way you'll get close is with a HID kit. I tried xenon bulbs way back when was not happy with the beam pattern scattered the light too much. Admittedly I had the cheapest bulbs you can buy. I get it why you want a certain colour, when I want things a certain that's how I want it no compromises.
LED Kit G8 100W 9004 HB1 4300K Stock Two Bulbs Head Light Plug Play Upgrade Lamp | eBay
I did some research and came across this kit of LEDs. I wonder if they'd be any good. They're recommended by BulbFacts as a "budget" warm LED option. This guy also loved the DDM Tuning Saber bulbs you have, and they apparently have a warmer Saber bulb but it is not available in dual "filament" options yet.

I will try that jumper method from that post! I didn't think of that since I would have thought the wires might fall out....

Edit: I'm thinking about possibly trying these bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-Extremely-Blinker-Replacement/dp/B0793BN3DR - turn signals. I'll get a flasher relay to swap in as well.
Edit 2: I could probably get away with my bff Sylvania for the turn signals I think. They would be the same kind that shine backwards, but that seems ok in the rear and afaik the front bulbs would be orientated perfectly for this.
https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Projector-replacement-Brilliant/dp/B01MY4T4BU - inboard brake lights and 3rd brake light
https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-1156-Back-Up-Reverse/dp/B07H6WSL4R - reverse lights
 

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LED Kit G8 100W 9004 HB1 4300K Stock Two Bulbs Head Light Plug Play Upgrade Lamp | eBay
I did some research and came across this kit of LEDs. I wonder if they'd be any good. They're recommended by BulbFacts as a "budget" warm LED option.
The LEDs are quite far apart, meaning what they are mounted to is thick LEDs I've had like this ended up with a bad beam pattern but it could have been other factors. The closer each side of the LEDs is to each other the better because it emits light as much as possible from the location of the halogen filament bulb.
This guy also loved the DDM Tuning Saber bulbs you have, and they apparently have a warmer Saber bulb but it is not available in dual "filament" options yet.
Too bad because they are incredible.
Edit: I'm thinking about possibly trying these bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-Extremely-Blinker-Replacement/dp/B0793BN3DR - turn signals. I'll get a flasher relay to swap in as well.
There is poor heat management longevity could be suspect.
Will work well for the 3rd mounted light. Not the brightest bulb it doesn't need to be in that location.
These will be plenty bright.

What I've learned from buying LEDs is reliability is not the best I just accept it at this point. This is the only red 1157 I've found that works correctly meaning difference between high low is about 7x every other bulb I've tried was maybe 4x at best

Not sure they will work properly in the sedan tail lights I'm using them in my wagon. There is a gen2 version don't have any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The LEDs are quite far apart, meaning what they are mounted to is thick LEDs I've had like this ended up with a bad beam pattern but it could have been other factors. The closer each side of the LEDs is to each other the better because it emits light as much as possible from the location of the halogen filament bulb.
Right. I need to do some research on these bulbs, see if they've been tested. If the beam pattern isn't too bad I could just lower the headlights a little more.
Edit: otherwise I'll just run halogens until DDM Tuning releases dual filament style of the warm kelvin Saber. My RX-7 has the factory original sealed beam lights and are still great; the Previa needs rewired and the Silverstars I put in will do a lot better. I'm adding H3 socket fog lights to it like I've done to my other cars, so it'll help a lot.

These will be plenty bright.

What I've learned from buying LEDs is reliability is not the best I just accept it at this point. This is the only red 1157 I've found that works correctly meaning difference between high low is about 7x every other bulb I've tried was maybe 4x at best

Not sure they will work properly in the sedan tail lights I'm using them in my wagon. There is a gen2 version don't have any.
Yea I'll probably just go with the Sylvania 1156As instead for the signals. Am thinking the reverse shining ZEVO ones for the front, and a more basic barrel style for the rear.
I'll order those reverse lights then.
The second phillips you linked are similar to the sylvanias in that they shine light towards the socket. I could certainly try the first phillips you linked though, those would probably work for the inboard lights. I found some 1156R of a brand I've had good experience with in the past for gauge cluster lights in my other project cars, so I will go with that for the 3rd brake light.

I need to measure the switch blanks and see what size switch I will need for the fog lights before I order anything.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Now, I did find my tail lamp computer connector, but I don't know what pin this is if I'm going to jump wires.....
Use the wire colors I posted earlier. You need to short two pairs of wires and leave the other three alone. Cut, strip, twist, solder, heat shrink, done.

For the lower dash removal:
  • Remove lower kick panel (black panel above feet, if it is still there), two phillips ( actually JIC cross-head)
  • Remove switch blanks to the right of steering column, pry from top or bottom
  • Remove coin holder from switches/blanks to the left of the column, pull with finger on the top inside of coin holder
  • Remove speaker grill, pry from top middle. Will be very hard the first time, bend in 'fangs' for easier removal next time.
  • Remove the 7 (!!!) 10mm-head bolts that hold the lower dash in place.

Remember to re-hook up the crotch cooler when you put the lower dash pad back later.

-Charlie

PS. In comparison, my '03 WRX lower dash pad came off with 1 quarter turn plastic fastener and two phillips screws... No wonder my Camry still has basically no rattles...
 
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1991 Camry DX, 1995 Previa S/C, 1983 Mazda RX-7 GS, 2022 Honda Insight
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167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got the Lower dash panel loose.
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The wire still connected is an alarm switch that blinks. I assume the green and black wire coming down to that harness is the starter wire I need to reconnect elsewhere?
Edit: someone filled the crotch cooler with popcorn seeds?!?!!!???
 

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Registered
1991 Camry DX, 1995 Previa S/C, 1983 Mazda RX-7 GS, 2022 Honda Insight
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167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like they scotch locked into it, so I don't think I have to do much?
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Not sure what to do next since I don't have wiring diagrams and the car still starts as is
 
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