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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Not sure what that big A42 connector does. I have it unplugged and the key still turns to "on" and brings things to life

edit: still starts with that unhooked. God I wish my FSM was here

Going to hook everything back up and leave it as is for the moment. If you guys have any insight on where to go from here, that'd be great. Wasn't hard to get here, so once I have a plan this should go easy
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Finally got to read through the glovebox and also lubricated the seatbelts. Seatbelts nice and quiet now.
Passenger wiper sprayer works. I think the line is clogged for the driver's sprayer.

The timing belt and water pump were replaced at 226k miles. I'd have to check again but I know the oil pump has been replaced a couple of times. I forget what mileage, but the engine also received a fairly extensive overhaul as well. I know it was mainly bottom end, can't remember if it said they did the rings or not. No idea why it was done, but hey the engine runs smooth as butter so I can't complain. There was more stuff noted that made me a lot more confident in the car, and excited I can do a lot more cleaning up/modifications/qol plus tons of driving before having to do anything big.

The alternator has been replaced once or twice, but I definitely hear some noise coming from this one; I suspect it was either a used part or a reman part. But then again, lots of mileage.
Power steering hose replaced in 2014.
Tons more stuff. The original envelope from the first dealership is covered in notes of services done and the mileage they were done at. The transmission was flushed within the last decade, 2016 I think?
One thing I don't remember seeing is spark plugs. So I will replace those soon, going to order spark plug wires and distributor cap to go with that. I want NGK wires, which don't seem to be on Rockauto so I will order those through Summit Racing. Will order plugs with the front brake parts on Rockauto. Going to get a dash cover to protect this pristine dash, and its kind of a brand for me at this point; I get a dash cover on every car. I might order some front floor mats to replace the mystery Highlander mats.

So I found today that the passenger rear corner of the sunroof was sagged below the roofline. I messed with it a little and it seemed like it was going too far back or something and drops down with a clunk; but it raises back up and the roof tracks normal all the way back. If I don't ride the close switch until it stops, I can at least let it rest at roofline level at all 4 corners; but there is still wind noise (less of it).

Got the bumper bra removed, but haven't gotten to putting the LED front markers in yet. The bumper was very dirty, and cleaned it some. Looks ok, definitely wasn't installed to hide any damage. The bottom part of the bra tore off at some point I think, because the whole bottom lip was covered in black duck tape; which unfortunately took up some chunks of paint on the lip with it :(
I suspect the headlight housings were replaced at some point as well, which could explain them being aimed too high; I think this because I noticed the turn signal lenses are clear, where I believe they should be amber?
My fog lights came in the mail a little early. Unfortunately I don't see any pre-drilled holes, so I will have to make a sacrifice. The switch blanks are 24x42mm. Probably going to tap into the cig lighter for ignition switch signal, I like my fogs being fully independent. That was something I don't like about how I wired the Corolla, the ashtray light only comes on with the running lights....
My wiring diagram book also came in the mail. Time to take a look at the starter circuit, and probably the horn/headlight circuit. I have the idea to keep the little blinky light as a theft deterrent (and homage to the previous owner), but I have no idea if that's possible. We also get to take a peek at the shift interlock system and investigate that.
The repair manual should be coming soon. Maybe it will have ideas on why shift interlock is broken.
 

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Wiring diagram for anyone that needs it

I strongly recommend you wire power directly from the battery to power your fog lights.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I strongly recommend you wire power directly from the battery to power your fog lights.
Always. I tend to ramble on sometimes, so sometimes my intentions aren't crystal clear.
The way I've always wired aux lights is by a fused connection straight off the battery to a relay; the relay is signaled by a switch that I usually take signal (and power for internal lights in the switch) from some other function that is somehow ignition switched.

In the past I have connected a switch directly to cruise control power (in a car with cruise control wiring, but no cruise module), spliced into cig lighters, spliced into ashtray light, and fuse taps. The common theme being that the circuit being tapped is controlled by some other function so I can't accidentally leave the lights on and drain the battery. Cruise control obviously doesn't receive power with key off, same with cig lighters; and ashtray lights turn off with the headlights (whether auto or manual). Fuse taps could be anything, but generally with this mindset you know you're looking for something specifically ignition switched. And we're not talking scotch locks or other sketch wiring methods. I mean cut the wire and use a crimp butt connector and add the new wire in that connection, then use appropriate heat shrink/electrical tape.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I figured out what the sunroof is doing to cause wind noise. I took a video to demonstrate but will need to upload to YouTube.

I flushed the power steering fluid. It was making scary noises after a couple rounds but now it seems to have settled down. But hard to hear it over another noise, and I can't stick a mechanics stethoscope on it since idk where it is lol

I 100% diagnose the alternator with terminal noise. I will need to order a new one soon. Conveniently gets noisier right after I place my order for brake parts.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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I think this because I noticed the turn signal lenses are clear, where I believe they should be amber?
'87-'90 is amber, '91 is white/clear. As long as you have an amber bulb in there, its legal/correct. '91 also got 'reversed' tail lights, a different lower facia, tri-oval front emblem and a maybe a few other minor differences.

-Charlie
 
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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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Not sure what that big A42 connector does. I have it unplugged and the key still turns to "on" and brings things to life
Lights, turn signals, wipers, etc. The connector to the left and a bit lower (larger wires) is likely the power wires tow/from the ignition switch, just follow it up there.

First step is to find the alarm brain. You may or may not be able to find diagrams, etc. for it. Like I said, most connections will be just tapped (unlock +, unlock-, lights, door triggers, power, etc.) - only the main starter disable will be cut.

You may also want to wire in a remote lock/unlock or newer alarm if you are in to that.

-Charlie
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
This is what Bulbfacts shows for the beam pattern of those warmer color LEDs I posted a link to earlier.
Meanwhile this is the beam pattern for the Saber bulbs.

Probably worth waiting for DDM Tuning to release a 9004 variant of their warmer Saber bulb.
I did raise the headlights a tad and this seems even better.

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The Alla Lighting reverse lights seem pretty solid.
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The Brishine turn signal bulbs also seem very good. Lighting up the entire lens with a good orange light. I've used Brishine for all the T5 bulbs in the interior of my other cars, they are very bright and I haven't had any issues with them at all. Only issue I had was in the Corolla's climate control light, where the top LED chips don't light up; seems to be a problem with the car since I tried multiple bulbs and they all acted like that, but the same bulbs worked perfect in any other T5 socket around the car. In a way this behavior is actually preferred since having the top chips lit created a mega hotspot lmao.
I don't know if this is common to all Camrys, or just 91, but my front signals are 1157. They don't serve as running lights, just turn signals. Why Toyota? In any case, had to pick up some of the Sylvania 1157As at the parts store. They don't seem to act as bright as the Brishine bulbs do, but they seem well visible and light up the entire lens well. When the camera is at the same level as the signals, they are super bright, but when I stand up a long distance away from the car there is no glare; should be plenty ok.
I picked up a Novita E35 flasher relay from the parts store as well. No hyperflash for me. I will say, the flasher relay in the Camry was a lot easier to remove than it was in my other Toyotas lol.
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On the subject of lighting, these are the fog lights. Switch is on its way.
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This is my sunroof issue. I have not touched the switch at all since I ended this clip.
Its been so windy last few days I can't tell if the wind noise is from being blasted in the windshield, passenger side door, sunroof, or the driver's door I definitely know needs realigned.

Lastly, I don't remember seeing the alarm computer under the dash anywhere. But then again, I was afraid to unhook the crotch cooler hose for fear of getting popcorn seeds all over the floor, so the lower dash panel was in the way of me crawling up under there.
And fantastic. Its snowing here again. They've salted the roads of course, so driving the project cars has been put on hold effective immediately.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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what about the trunk light thats originally a 194 bulb? I would like to plug into the same socket but use a light bar instead that would have more leds on it. It could be cylindrical or flat like the mechanics hand held lights. Anything fit the bill? I wouldn't need the type that people put on their front grill or above the windshield of cars/trucks that lightup the world though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
what about the trunk light thats originally a 194 bulb? I would like to plug into the same socket but use a light bar instead that would have more leds on it. It could be cylindrical or flat like the mechanics hand held lights. Anything fit the bill? I wouldn't need the type that people put on their front grill or above the windshield of cars/trucks that lightup the world though.
I simply put in an LED 194, but I bet you could get some kind of connector that slots in or jam wire in the socket to power a custom light bar of some kind
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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I simply put in an LED 194, but I bet you could get some kind of connector that slots in or jam wire in the socket to power a custom light bar of some kind
Yup, you can get a pigtail for a T10 wedge base (I think 194s use a T10 base) that just has two wires you can connect to whatever.

I got a free cold cathode tube YEARS ago that I run in the trunk of my Camry. Bright blue and full of rice...

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I got the inboard tail lights replaced with suitable bulbs. They are not as bright under braking as the Sylvania bulbs I have in the outside slots, however they still have a good difference between running and braking so I can't complain too much for the cost.
The 3rd brake light has also been swapped to LED, with the red version of the Brishine 1156 I used for the rear turn signals.
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Here you can see the difference in the running lights. The Brishine bulbs have a dome shaped reflector on the end, which is why it creates that circle in the center. It seems more noticeable on camera than in person, but idk. I did not have a helper on-hand to hold the brake pedal for pictures.

Just waiting on my brake pads and spark plug wires for those two things. Pads should be here today or tomorrow.
I need to check the trans fluid with a white towel instead of a darker one to see the color, but I'm probably going to do a drain and fill before long. It won't need flushed since the fluid smells fine and I know it was flushed in 2016.
Pretty sure the throttle cable needs adjusted.

I was at the junkyard yesterday and took the center console off to look at the shifter, but I couldn't figure out where the lock solenoid was and where the computer was. I would've taken them otherwise.
I did grab the gauge cluster and the shift indicator off the junkyard car, just for part hoarding sake, but also to see what bulbs were used where so I can see what I have and what I need to order; although this is a 88 dash, it looks identical to my 91, so I assume the bulbs used are all the same. Looks like the guages all use 168/194 and the shift indicator uses neo wedges of some variety. Makes it easy I guess. I have not found a quality LED neo wedge yet, so that's going to be interesting.
No idea how I'll deal with the burnt out defrost switch light (the on-indicator does work), and the dim cruise control on-indicator. Looking at the LED guide, those are very weird; and I'm afraid to try taking the switch apart for fear of breaking it.

The snow is gone and we had torrential rains over the weekend, so I will be driving it some more and probably get the crotch cooler off to get the popcorn seeds out, then start the hunt in full for the alarm computer.
I'll check the FSM again to see the shifter diagram, try to figure out what I couldn't put together from seeing the shifter torn apart in person. I know there's some wires I can check resistance on to verify part functionality, just gotta figure out where those parts are!

To follow up on the torrential rain, I did not see any signs of leakage or smell any telltale signs of wet cloth/particle board, so it seals water at least.
 

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Projector style is not suitable for the inboard portion as you found out I'm using these

But remember I'm not using the above as stock high/low, for the running light portion I have separate T10 bulbs the 1157 is only being used for brake lights. If you want a bulb that works properly look up Philips Xtreme 1157 it has the proper high/low difference. The shifter bulb is a T5. 1987-1988 has no shift interlock at least in Canada so maybe that's why you couldn't see the solenoid/computer.

The switch gear on either side of the cluster is not easy to take apart and modify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Projector style is not suitable for the inboard portion as you found out I'm using these

But remember I'm not using the above as stock high/low, for the running light portion I have separate T10 bulbs the 1157 is only being used for brake lights. If you want a bulb that works properly look up Philips Xtreme 1157 it has the proper high/low difference. The shifter bulb is a T5. 1987-1988 has no shift interlock at least in Canada so maybe that's why you couldn't see the solenoid/computer.

The switch gear on either side of the cluster is not easy to take apart and modify.
The Philips bulbs all ship from Europe and cost more than double even what Sylvania's bulbs cost.
Also, while the video I took was at a poor angle and the focus isn't great, I can tell there's a clear difference in the high/low of the inboard lights. I could better test this by removing the outboard lights (since they are brighter in high). I think it depends primarily on the design of the bulb you are using. My Previa had LED brake lights already installed when I bought it, but I later came to find out that not only were they pretty dim white LEDs, but the high/low difference was basically nothing; worse even than standard halogen bulbs.
Similar to these: Amazon.com: 1157 Led Brake Light Bulb, 12V-24V 1157 7528 2357 2057 BAY15D LED Replacement Light Bulb for Brake Tail Running Parking Backup Light for Car RV Trailer Boat, 54SMD 3014 Chipset White light, 4PCS : Automotive

My buddy is coming over tonight to help me with a different car, so I'll get his opinion on it as well. Get some pictures or a shorter video to share here.
 

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The Philips bulbs all ship from Europe and cost more than double even what Sylvania's bulbs cost.
They are pricey and hard to find (probably not made anymore) I have a 2 sets in my wagon since I didn't feel like adding a bunch of sockets like I did for the '87. Was worth it to me they will never burn out and work perfectly. The high/low difference should be 6-7x the Philips is the only LED bulb I've found that does this.

Honestly I've wasted so much money on iffy LED bulbs could have bought a bunch of Philips bulbs instead.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I took some pictures of the brake lights again with a helper. The projector bulbs seem to be nearly as good as the Sylvania bulbs. Longevity is of course suspect since it's not Sylvania, but this brand has held up in my other cars.
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The difference in brightness between high/low is plenty good. Way better than the trash bulbs my van had when I bought it, at the very least.

I got the front brakes replaced, since my pads finally arrived. Took about 40 minutes to swap parts on both sides, Florida cars are no joke; everything broke loose easy.
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We did run into issues bleeding the brakes however. The passenger side seemed to keep bubbling no matter what, we tried the old caliper in case the new one was junk, but it had the same problem. No leaks anywhere that I could find, and the hoses look pretty much new. So we put the new caliper back on and bled as much as we could before running out of fluid.
The brake pedal feels better, but still has too much travel. I'm going to take the rear wheels off to check the brakes, make sure the dealership replaced the wheel cylinders like they said. Assuming they did (the rear bleeder screws are shiny at least), I believe it's time for a master cylinder.
On the way to work this morning, I did figure out that if I start braking, then release the pedal and immediately start braking again, the pedal stiffens up. My thought is an internal master cylinder leak, though I've never experienced one before. Only dead master cylinder I've had before was an external leak. My concern with replacing it however, is that the distribution block on the side looks welded on? Pictures of new ones don't have the block on it....
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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I'll need a pic of this thing on the master cylinder. The proportioning valve and distribution block is on the firewall behind the motor.

I've had multiple internal master cylinder leaks, often preceded by a brake bleeding session. That usually shows as a sinking pedal during steady brake application.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I'll need a pic of this thing on the master cylinder. The proportioning valve and distribution block is on the firewall behind the motor.

I've had multiple internal master cylinder leaks, often preceded by a brake bleeding session. That usually shows as a sinking pedal during steady brake application.

-Charlie
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Here's the thing.



Additionally, I performed a test on the brakes. I pulled the handbrake partway, just before it starts to hold the car still, then drove around and used the brakes. The pedal felt significantly better. So at a minimum, the shoes are not adjusted. I can look out for a failing master cylinder after that's fixed.

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Left to right is cylinders 1-4. I'm no spark plug reading guru, but they look fine to me. The wires were starting to fall apart and the rotor had rusted to the shaft.






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New rotor, and NGK cap+wires. NGK platinum plugs. I also tightened whatever cable is in the left side of the throttle body as it was very loose.

Based on what radios I see in the owners manual, I may have found one of the options for stock radios.
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It was cheap at the junkyard. No idea if it works, but I might try it out sometime.
 

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That 3-way junction has no moving parts inside it's only a 1 to 3 fitting. The proportioning valve is center of firewall hard to see or get to. People don't want to hear it but this is partly why I dumped drum brakes long ago they never feel great and are nothing but trouble. I hate them.

I never had good luck with platinum plugs like how it runs with the cheap original copper plugs.
 
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