Ecu reset

Hazpin said:

Hi, so my 2018 Toyota Corolla LE was going into limp mode when I drive. Basically the computer telling the transmission that it’s in neutral and drive at the same time. (So what the dealership said)
So I went and bought another ecu and it had the same code as my original ecu.
my question is, can I reflash this ecu without actually going to the dealership? And how would I do this?

Click to expand...

2018 (warranty)? Did you get the original issue resolved?
How was it decided it was a bad ecu? Where did you get the new ecu?
They can be sent to independent shops with your vin and reset. DIY, doubtful.

I bought the car from an auction so I don’t think the warranty would apply.
i took the car to the dealership because the car would stay in limp mode and the dealership said it could be something with wiring or the ecu. I bought an ecu online and linked it to the car but the car would still go into limp mode so I was thinking if I need to reflash the ecu.
my pre collision sensor is not calibrated so it’s not functional. Would that be a cause to the car going into limp mode or should I go to a shop to get the ecu reflashed?
I just don’t want to go to the shop to where they say that’s not the case.

Hazpin said:

Hi, so my 2018 Toyota Corolla LE was going into limp mode when I drive. Basically the computer telling the transmission that it’s in neutral and drive at the same time. (So what the dealership said)
So I went and bought another ecu and it had the same code as my original ecu.
my question is, can I reflash this ecu without actually going to the dealership? And how would I do this?

Click to expand...

2018 (warranty)? Did you get the original issue resolved?
How was it decided it was a bad ecu. Where did you get the new ecu?
They can be sent to independent shops with your vin and reset.

Hazpin said:

I bought the car from an auction so I don’t think the warranty would apply.
i took the car to the dealership because the car would stay in limp mode and the dealership said it could be something with wiring or the ecu. I bought an ecu online and linked it to the car but the car would still go into limp mode so I was thinking if I need to reflash the ecu.
my pre collision sensor is not calibrated so it’s not functional. Would that be a cause to the car going into limp mode or should I go to a shop to get the ecu reflashed?
I just don’t want to go to the shop to where they say that’s not the case.

Click to expand...

Is the car a Salvage Tittle? If it isn't then the Warranty should transfer to you. Cars are bought and sold daily at auctions. Where it's bought has no relevance if it has a clean title. If part of the safety system is reporting an error it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU would go into limp, but not sure. Any codes when it's scanned with eith ECU?
Should you take it to a shop I would let them diagnose the problem. If you lead them by the nose their gonna tell ya what ya wanna hear at your expense, (IMHO).

This is how it works with warranty.
What was damaged in accident, is not under warranty. Undamaged parts etc still are under coverage.
So it depends, if you bought a car after accident or, just from auction.
Changing ECUs or reflashing them won't do you any help as whatever is causing the problem, is still there, tripping limp mode.

The car has a salvage titile.
i do get two codes.
mine for the transmission range sensor and the other is transmission speed sensor. I bought a brand new OEM range sensor and swapped it out and it still would read the same code. My cousin has tried recalibrating the sensors. It would drive okay. Once I put it in park and pop it back into gear it would go limp.

So here is the situation now. I went and got the pre collision fixed. No more warning signs on that.
codes still shoot p0705/p0500.
it seems that my car is stuck on 2nd or 3rd gear. I’ll turn the car off, it’ll drive normally for a little (different timing every time, sometimes for a few miles, some times right away) then it’ll drop back into limp. Do I need to recalibrate the ECU?
hence it’s all electrical and the computer is telling the transmission there is something wrong so throws it into limp. Maybe?
im a newbie on this.

It sounds like the shift solenoid in the transmission pan is dirty.

Have you tried unhooking the battery for 15 mins? It will be rough for some time for the ECU to do it's relearn.

I have tried unhooking the battery several times. I tried buying an ecu from eBay with the same bar code and tried relearning it, that didn’t work so I relearned my original one back.
the car has only 26k miles on it but the axel was ripped out of it from the accident so I replaced it and topped of the oil at the shop.
could it be that it got dirty inside which causes this?
i turned it in to the dealership to get it diagnosed (which was a waste of money because they said everything I already knew)
They were saying that it could be the wiring, or the ecu need to be changed.
i took the day yesterday and inspected the wiring but all looks good.

CVT?


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Yes it’s a cvt

Transmission Position Sensor.

I have replaced that part with a brand new one. That isn’t it.

Could it be a fuse of some sort?

Did you get OEM axles? It seems like it only happens when you drive. Doesn’t the axle or wheel give speed data to the sensors?


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That’s what I was thinking. Maybe it was the parts that I put on but I just checked my purchase history and it turns out to be OEM axels.

Doesn’t the speedometer not work when the speed sensor is not working?
mine works fine.

Hazpin said:

Hi, so my 2018 Toyota Corolla LE was going into limp mode when I drive. Basically the computer telling the transmission that it’s in neutral and drive at the same time. (So what the dealership said)
So I went and bought another ecu and it had the same code as my original ecu.
my question is, can I reflash this ecu without actually going to the dealership? And how would I do this?

Click to expand...

Hello
Might be better to have your original part repaired at UpFix - We save you money on rebuilding your failed electronics!

Here is the service link

Hazard_55 said:

So here is the situation now. I went and got the pre collision fixed. No more warning signs on that.
codes still shoot p0705/p0500.
it seems that my car is stuck on 2nd or 3rd gear. I’ll turn the car off, it’ll drive normally for a little (different timing every time, sometimes for a few miles, some times right away) then it’ll drop back into limp. Do I need to recalibrate the ECU?
hence it’s all electrical and the computer is telling the transmission there is something wrong so throws it into limp. Maybe?
im a newbie on this.

Click to expand...

How did you the fix warning lights of the pre collision system??