Replace the EGR VSV first, then the modulator. Since this is on a 5SFE (modulator gives it away), you're going to have a hell of a time trying to replace that VSV.
EGR Insufficient Flow Next Step Question
Received an EGR Insufficient Flow error code on my 1999 Camry CE. Took to local garage and had the EGR valve and vacuum lines cleaned. Error code was reset and stayed away for two days. It then came back. Two different garages gave two different paths to fixing. The common item between both solutions was to replace the EGR Modulator Valve. I replaced this myself and reset the error code by removing the EFI fuse for ten minutes. The error code stayed away for two days (about 45 miles). One garage suggested replacing the EGR valve itself the other garage suggested replacing the EGR valve itself.
Any suggestions? Evidently the line from the bottom of the EGR valve to the engine block was heavily filled with carbon. I have limited tools and knowledge of working on cars, but think this is something that I can replace with help from the forum.
Thanks!
Any suggestions? Evidently the line from the bottom of the EGR valve to the engine block was heavily filled with carbon. I have limited tools and knowledge of working on cars, but think this is something that I can replace with help from the forum.
Thanks!
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Thanks for your response Jason. I had a quote to replace it for $80 labor. Sounds like it might be worth it. Not too sure where it is located, but have seen several posts leading me to believe it won't be fun or easy to get to.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry/73797-diy-camry-2-2l-2001-vsv/
Some pics and different procedures by DIYers.
Some pics and different procedures by DIYers.
Local dealer is quoting p/n 25860 74050 for $86.11. Can anyone verify the p/n and let me know if this is a decent price? Also, it sounded like there are two different parts. One the connects to the canister and one that connects to the manifold. I told him I wanted the one that connected to the manifold. Is this correct?
That part number is correct. The one that connects to the canister is for the EVAP system, so you picked the right one.Local dealer is quoting p/n 25860 74050 for $86.11. Can anyone verify the p/n and let me know if this is a decent price? Also, it sounded like there are two different parts. One the connects to the canister and one that connects to the manifold. I told him I wanted the one that connected to the manifold. Is this correct?
The price is a little inflated. See if you can get it down to about $75. If not, order it from here: http://www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/
I have no affiliation with Lithia, but they have good prices and excellent shipping speeds. You can go without replacing that VSV for a little bit to save some money. The ECU will compensate for the issue. It's just the CEL is bothersome.
Would this cause a drop in mileage too? I just noticed that I dropped 50 miles per tank since this engine light has been on.
Thanks again
Thanks again
It's definitely possible. The EGR cools the combustion chambers, which allows the ECU to run more timing without detonation and that makes it more efficient. It's highly likely the ECU is retarding the timing a bit to stay on the safe side of things.Would this cause a drop in mileage too? I just noticed that I dropped 50 miles per tank since this engine light has been on.
Thanks again
I had the same code, pulled the EGR, cleaned it and nothing changed. I then replaced the VSV and it fixed it! $80 from the dealer (search online for a better price) and 20 minutes later it was fixed.
On the 5SFE the VSV is really not that hard to get to if you're flexible or skinny. If you're not so skinny, you just need to remove a couple things in your way (mostly just a huge connecting bar from the intake to the block)
You can knock it out in 30 minutes I bet.
On the 5SFE the VSV is really not that hard to get to if you're flexible or skinny. If you're not so skinny, you just need to remove a couple things in your way (mostly just a huge connecting bar from the intake to the block)
You can knock it out in 30 minutes I bet.
You can also check your EGR valve operation. Pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve, and put on a nice long extra vacuum line on the EGR valve, and leave the other end off. Start the car, let it warm up to normal operating temperature. Then using a vacuum pump, or yourself on the other end of the vacuum line, pull a nice strong vacuum on the EGR valve. If the engine continues running like normal, there is a problem (no exhaust gas is being directed into the the intake manifold). The engine should stumble or even shut off when you pull a good vacuum on the EGR valve. If the engine does stumble or stall, then you know your EGR valve and passages are all good. Your problem then is somewhere between the EGR VSV and/or the EGR modulator.
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