It is my understanding when you test the egr valve by directly pulling a vacuum you should see the valve raise and hold in position while under vacuum. Mine I have to continuously pump the vacuum to move the valve up as the vacuum leaks from the egr. I had it off the car so I know it is moving up under vacuum, just not holding it. I’m not interested in putting another $300+ for this part.You can't bypass the EGR system, the computer needs to see EGR flow or it will throw the CEL. Are you saying the EGR valve itself won't seal?
I wouldn’t be either. But for a 30 year old car this might work.I’m not interested in putting another $300+ for this part.
I do appreciate the reply, but my camry is a 1989, not a 98. That part would not bolt up correctlyI wouldn’t be either. But for a 30 year old car this might work.
RockAuto $75-$95
1998 TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0L V6 EGR Valve | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.www.rockauto.com
Oops, must need more coffee, sorry.I do appreciate the reply, but my camry is a 1989, not a 98. That part would not bolt up correctly
The valve should stay open as long as vacuum is applied. Are you in California?It is my understanding when you test the egr valve by directly pulling a vacuum you should see the valve raise and hold in position while under vacuum. Mine I have to continuously pump the vacuum to move the valve up as the vacuum leaks from the egr. I had it off the car so I know it is moving up under vacuum, just not holding it. I’m not interested in putting another $300+ for this part.
Not in California. My egr valve does not stay open under vacuum as the vacuum bleeds off, indicating from what I know is a bad diaphragm. The root of the question: is there any way to repair the diaphragm instead of buying the whole $300+ assembly.The valve should stay open as long as vacuum is applied. Are you in California?
Don't know of any way to repair the diaphragm. Salvage yard part.The root of the question: is there any way to repair the diaphragm...
Thanks for the reply. I blocked off the egr and put a 10Kohm resister between the two temp sensor wires and no more code 71 for the egr! Car runs just fine.What area are you in? Can you just leave it?
if the check engine light wont pass some kind of a check, wouldnt the light stay off during the check since the EGR would operate at I think only a higher engine speed? Doesnt sound like youre planning to keep it long... if so why fix it?
My old Firebird would only throw he EGR code at highway speeds and would go out on every start up,.... basically it wouldnt throw the code till 50 - 55 mph... so it always passed our safety check since the light was never on during the checks. (we dont have emissions)
I didnt know how to fix it back then so.... i didnt even think it was an issue
Cool. Glad to hear the ECU is not smart enough to know the difference.Thanks for the reply. I blocked off the egr and put a 10Kohm resister between the two temp sensor wires and no more code 71 for the egr! Car runs just fine.
I always wondered if it it checked the EGR temp when EGR wasn't commanded on. My CA emissions 4-cylinder would only throw the 71 code every 2-4 weeks, so I would just check and reset it when it happened... (blocked EGR at manifold) It would also throw cat codes too, since I was running without one.Cool. Glad to hear the ECU is not smart enough to know the difference.
2-4 weeks? Damn, that means the 2VZ might throw codes at some point.I always wondered if it it checked the EGR temp when EGR wasn't commanded on. My CA emissions 4-cylinder would only throw the 71 code every 2-4 weeks, so I would just check and reset it when it happened... (blocked EGR at manifold) It would also throw cat codes too, since I was running without one.
-Charlie