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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This topic is all over the place on deleting, replacing etc. I am going to ask just in case I am not fully informed. I pulled the egr off the 89 Camry and cleaned it up. I also pulled vacuum on the egr valve itself and it does not hold vacuum. Is there any repair option for a bad egr diaphragm? It seems the new part is very pricey which leads me down the path of blocking it off. Do I leave all the vacuum lines as is coming from the vacuum modulator, coolant lines and such, just make block off plates? This project started due to chronic code 71. Thanks for all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can't bypass the EGR system, the computer needs to see EGR flow or it will throw the CEL. Are you saying the EGR valve itself won't seal?
It is my understanding when you test the egr valve by directly pulling a vacuum you should see the valve raise and hold in position while under vacuum. Mine I have to continuously pump the vacuum to move the valve up as the vacuum leaks from the egr. I had it off the car so I know it is moving up under vacuum, just not holding it. I’m not interested in putting another $300+ for this part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wouldn’t be either. But for a 30 year old car this might work.
RockAuto $75-$95
I do appreciate the reply, but my camry is a 1989, not a 98. That part would not bolt up correctly
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The valve should stay open as long as vacuum is applied. Are you in California?
Not in California. My egr valve does not stay open under vacuum as the vacuum bleeds off, indicating from what I know is a bad diaphragm. The root of the question: is there any way to repair the diaphragm instead of buying the whole $300+ assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What area are you in? Can you just leave it?
if the check engine light wont pass some kind of a check, wouldnt the light stay off during the check since the EGR would operate at I think only a higher engine speed? Doesnt sound like youre planning to keep it long... if so why fix it?

My old Firebird would only throw he EGR code at highway speeds and would go out on every start up,.... basically it wouldnt throw the code till 50 - 55 mph... so it always passed our safety check since the light was never on during the checks. (we dont have emissions)

I didnt know how to fix it back then so.... i didnt even think it was an issue
Thanks for the reply. I blocked off the egr and put a 10Kohm resister between the two temp sensor wires and no more code 71 for the egr! Car runs just fine.
 
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