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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Still working on get my amp to stop going into protect. So far i have add a 150 anl fuse from alt to bat, the amp seems to stay on a little longer. I went to autozone yesterday because when i tested my battery (stinger sp1000) it read 14.4 volts but the car was started. The guy said nothing was wrong with my alternator. This moring when i first started the car it read 15.0 volts, but the car was still cold. But once i turn my system on the voltage just drops all the way down to around 12.5-11.0 and the amp goes into protect, as soon as the amp shuts off the battery charges back up to about 14v in about 1min or 2min..Need help guys, whats the problem?
 

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I smell McNuggets
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1,011 Posts
Sounds like your amp is really sucking down your voltage there. Amps will go into protected mode if it gets too little voltage. My guess is tehre my be a short somewhere inside the amp that is causing this voltage draw. I would take it to the shop that u got it from or a shop in general and see if they can get it to work.
 

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A Poor College Student
1994 Camry Sedan LE
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354 Posts
If it's a new amp, I'd get another one. I had a Jensen amp (first amp, whoops) that the power wire shorted to the bottom of my passenger's seat. The amp shut itself off and went into protect mode. Got home and fixed the problem, but it only came out of protect mode once for about 2 min. Took it back to Circuit City and got my first MTx amp, much happier with it.
 

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Got SQ?
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780 Posts
What amp or amps are you running?
 

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Got SQ?
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780 Posts
are you pushing all 1500 watts, if yes, you need to upgrade your alt to a 180-200 amp, your amp is overheating most likely or getting insufficient power from you electrical and going into protect. My ppi used to do that, it is very bad for your amps.
 

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JL Fanatik
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42 Posts
What it could also be is the wiring, my friends has an alpine mrd 501 that they accidentally wired down to 1 ohm parallel, it would play for a few mins, then the amp would turn itself off/go into safe mode. You think you wired your subs down to too low of an ohm? Just something to ask urself.
 

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N/A bites
Paseo
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5,859 Posts
Get the battery load tested also, the voltage shouldn't flux that much nor that quickly. You may need to trickle charge the battery ovenight for a proper charge.
 

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Registered
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
i have to dual 2 ohm speakers, i forget if it is in parallel or series, but i have them wired into 2 ohms. being that the amp is 2ohm stable..
 

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JL Fanatik
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42 Posts
Then i think your running a series, so if your running wires like that, and your amp is 2 ohm stable, then thats not the problem. Just a whole other list of what may be the problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't think it is the wiring neither, because i can play for a nice bit of time, i can play it loud enough for the trunk to rattle for about 10-15min depending on how much bass a particular song has before it cuts off.....
 

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edud NT laiciffO
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161 Posts
If you have really exhausted all the possible options, you just send the amp in and get a new one. When I received my first RF1001bd, it worked for about a day and didnt go back on. I sent it in and got a new one. Yours should still be under warranty, just get a replacement. It happens sometimes.
 

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Got SQ?
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780 Posts
Yes the big 3 is definitely required, I suggest running 0awg, 4awg is too small to everything. get the battery, this is the cheapest route. I have a bat cap if your interested in it, its basically a 100 farad cap to help eliminate those quick 5 second burst. Anyway do those two first, are you getting dimming at night? So first do the big 3, upgrade your battery, see how everything goes, if problems still persist, get HO alt or batcap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright tonight i have added another battery and moved the sp1000 to the trunk, the batt under the hood is a some autozone battery putting out 875crank amps, not cold crank. so i ran positive under hood to positive in trunk, then i grounded negative in trunk, is this the proper way to run the battery..
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #16
it seemed to be working pretty well, i finally was able to get my system to around 60-70% of its potential untill my ground wire came out...
 

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Got SQ?
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780 Posts
you need a relay, or your batteries will drain each other, stinger makes one.
 

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Got SQ?
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Also make sure you fuse the extra battery, coming in and going out, unless you want to melt your car :p:
 

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Platinum Shift Customs
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556 Posts
btw- 0awg is overkill, im running 4awg @ 2700watts combined peak amperage of aprox 220, with a 1 farad cap and a 170amp alt, and a budget battery. I have never had any problems with electricity delivery or lights dimming, or audio clipping.
 

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Got SQ?
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780 Posts
4 awg is only good up to 130amps

Wire Gauge Current Flow Max Total Amp Power
Class AB (60% eff) Max Total Amp Power
Class D (75% eff)
0 awg 330 amps 2731 watts 3414 watts
1 awg 262 amps 2168 watts 2710 watts
2 awg 208 amps 1720 watts 2151 watts
3 awg 165 amps 1365 watts 1707 watts
4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts
5 awg 104 amps 860 watts 1075 watts
6 awg 82 amps 683 watts 853 watts
7 awg 65 amps 542 watts 677 watts
8 awg 52 amps 430 watts 537 watts
9 awg 41 amps 341 watts 427 watts
10 awg 33 amps 271 watts 339 watts
11 awg 26 amps 215 watts 269 watts
12 awg 21 amps 171 watts 213 watts
13 awg 16 amps 135 watts 169 watts
14 awg 13 amps 107 watts 134 watts
 
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