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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to open up the IAC valve and clean it - my car experiences an occasional surge in idle RPMs. The screws are completely stripped.

I looked up a few options - am not a fan of dremel method (because the screws are fairly flush with IAC valve cover) or using drill bits (because I have no idea how deep the screw is, and I don't want to end up drilling too deep). The screws are too threaded for the rubber band method to work.

Any suggestions?
 

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Various Toyotas
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So, did you get all four screws out? When I did this on a Corolla, I replaced the screws with bolts that had normal hex heads that can be turned with a socket or wrench.
 

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Various Toyotas
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If you mean me, yes. Ordered a JIS set immediately thereafter. Replaced the screws with bolts and lock washers from HD.
I have a JIS manual impact wrench, but didn't realize these screws were JIS. Good to know. EDIT: My memory is coming back, yes I did know that and I used JIS bits on a manual impact screwdriver to get the screws out. That tool was very helpful.

Iceman, it looks like you either have to use a Dremel and make screwdriver slots or drill out the screws. Not sure what other choice you have.
 

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No need to take it out. (If it's 5sfe) under the throttle body there is a vacuum hose, behind the connector. Pull it out, take off the intake hose, take some TB cleaner, start the engine, and with one hand hold the throttle arround 2000 rpm and spray inside the IAC hole, not continuosly, spray in short intervals. As you feel the engine choking, slowly raise rpm to maintain constant engine speed. Doesn't need to much TB cleaner. As you see it dripping from the hose you unplugged, when it starts to come out clean, that is it. The IAC valve is a magnetic (solenoid) pin, so that should do the job. No need to open it.
Hope this helps. Don't worry for the smoke from the exhaust, it is normal.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 

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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No need to take it out. (If it's 5sfe) under the throttle body there is a vacuum hose, behind the connector. Pull it out, take off the intake hose, take some TB cleaner, start the engine, and with one hand hold the throttle arround 2000 rpm and spray inside the IAC hole, not continuosly, spray in short intervals. As you feel the engine choking, slowly raise rpm to maintain constant engine speed. Doesn't need to much TB cleaner. As you see it dripping from the hose you unplugged, when it starts to come out clean, that is it. The IAC valve is a magnetic (solenoid) pin, so that should do the job. No need to open it.
Hope this helps. Don't worry for the smoke from the exhaust, it is normal.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
I'll give this a shot (it's a 5sfe) - thanks!
 

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If the slot doesn't work out you can just drill the heads off. Every time I've done that the screw that is left will be loose and you can unscrew by hand.
 

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2006 Corolla XRS
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So, did you get all four screws out? When I did this on a Corolla, I replaced the screws with bolts that had normal hex heads that can be turned with a socket or wrench.
What thread pitch did you use? OAL?
 

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Various Toyotas
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What thread pitch did you use? OAL?
This is what I used for the Gen 9 Corolla. Don't know if it's the same as the Gen 3-4 Camry:



Now I remember that I did use JIS bits for the soft screws. I forgot about that. The JIS hand impact wrench/screwdriver really came in handy.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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854 Posts
This is what I used for the Gen 9 Corolla. Don't know if it's the same as the Gen 3-4 Camry:



Now I remember that I did use JIS bits for this. I forgot about that. The JIS hand impact wrench/screwdriver really came in handy.
Same for my '94 Camry except I used 16mm.
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
If you are willing to replace the old fasteners, you can use a Vise-Grip (or similar) pliers on them. Tighten really, really fully, onto the head and twist them out. As for replacement fasteners, I too like to use hex socket screws in tough spots because they aren't as likely to strip and you don't need as much clearance with them. I also recommend actual JIS fasteners if you use hex cap screws (I usually buy the correct Toyota fastener - Toyota's prices for these fasteners are not out of line with buying from a quality hardware store). I absolutely hate it when I go to remove a fastener and it has an ISO/DIN sized head.
 

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I also recommend actual JIS fasteners if you use hex cap screws (I usually buy the correct Toyota fastener - Toyota's prices for these fasteners are not out of line with buying from a quality hardware store). I absolutely hate it when I go to remove a fastener and it has an ISO/DIN sized head.
I agree. Belmetric has a great selection of JIS hardware if anyone needs to stock up.
 

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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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Discussion Starter #18
If you are willing to replace the old fasteners, you can use a Vise-Grip (or similar) pliers on them. Tighten really, really fully, onto the head and twist them out. As for replacement fasteners, I too like to use hex socket screws in tough spots because they aren't as likely to strip and you don't need as much clearance with them. I also recommend actual JIS fasteners if you use hex cap screws (I usually buy the correct Toyota fastener - Toyota's prices for these fasteners are not out of line with buying from a quality hardware store). I absolutely hate it when I go to remove a fastener and it has an ISO/DIN sized head.
the screws are flush with the front of the iac valve cover, making it impossible to use a vise-grip on them - or am i misunderstanding what you mean?

my screw extractor kit from amazon is arriving this week - will post update
 

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I hope you have better luck, but I've never had any type of screw extractor work. Ever.

Last resort: Use a dremel with a cut-off disk to saw the head off. Use the kind of disks that have fiberglass reinforcement.
 

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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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Discussion Starter #20
I hope you have better luck, but I've never had any type of screw extractor work. Ever.

Last resort: Use a dremel with a cut-off disk to saw the head off. Use the kind of disks that have fiberglass reinforcement.
fingers crossed.

if i go the dremel route, i would need a very small spinning saw to avoid damage the iac valve body cover itself, correct? most demos of a dremel on youtube are on screws that are half-way into a piece of wood, which i would think is much easier to deal with than a screw that's flush against a part that you don't want to damage.
 
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