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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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849 Posts
fingers crossed.

if i go the dremel route, i would need a very small spinning saw to avoid damage the iac valve body cover itself, correct? most demos of a dremel on youtube are on screws that are half-way into a piece of wood, which i would think is much easier to deal with than a screw that's flush against a part that you don't want to damage.
On mine, I cut a slot across the head of the screw to fit a flat tip screwdriver. Worked for me. YMMV, of course.
 

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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
On mine, I cut a slot across the head of the screw to fit a flat tip screwdriver. Worked for me. YMMV, of course.
do you remember the diameter size (roughly) of the saw blade on the dremel when you did this?
 

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411 Posts
Or drill through the head until it breaks off at the shank, pull the IAC off and then remove what's left of the screw.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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849 Posts
do you remember the diameter size (roughly) of the saw blade on the dremel when you did this?
It's actually a cut off wheel, not really a saw blade per se. Dremel #420. Prox .944" diameter, .025" thick. If you search Dremel #420 on Home Depot, there is a good video.
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
the screws are flush with the front of the iac valve cover, making it impossible to use a vise-grip on them - or am i misunderstanding what you mean?

my screw extractor kit from amazon is arriving this week - will post update
I apologize for the error - I took it for granted they were similar to the installation shown in the photo in post #12. I suppose then that these OEM screws are countersunk flathead screws? If they are countersunk flathead screws, it will be difficult to slot them and not mar the surface of the housing, at least in order to get a slot of proper depth. Perhaps clamping it in a vise (protected, of course) and using a proper cape chisel and modest hammer on the screws?
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
Joined
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849 Posts
I apologize for the error - I took it for granted they were similar to the installation shown in the photo in post #12. I suppose then that these OEM screws are countersunk flathead screws? If they are countersunk flathead screws, it will be difficult to slot them and not mar the surface of the housing, at least in order to get a slot of proper depth. Perhaps clamping it in a vise (protected, of course) and using a proper cape chisel and modest hammer on the screws?
They are more of a raised up fillister screw but for a JIS driver instead of a slot. It's been a while, but I don't recall any difficulty cutting a slot without hitting the surface of the IAC.
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
They are more of a raised up fillister screw but for a JIS driver instead of a slot. It's been a while, but I don't recall any difficulty cutting a slot without hitting the surface of the IAC.
Thank you for the clarification!
Not having a photo of the actual screws and housing, I guess I don't have another method of attack. Perhaps someone can post a snap of the part in question?
 

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Toyotas.
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337 Posts
I've drilled the screws with success. And it's not real hard. Good drill bit, and the phillips head giudes the drill. Once the cover is free, the body of the screw is proud of the surface, and can easily be withdrawn, sometimes by hand. Always by plier.

BTW, you'll know when the screw has been drilled enough, as the head will spin free.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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849 Posts
Thank you for the clarification!
Not having a photo of the actual screws and housing, I guess I don't have another method of attack. Perhaps someone can post a snap of the part in question?
Thank you for the clarification!
Not having a photo of the actual screws and housing, I guess I don't have another method of attack. Perhaps someone can post a snap of the part in question?
290965

On left is an original that came out easily, center is the one slotted with the Dremel, right is the replacement bolt. HTH. P1000402.JPG
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
Thank you for the photo. If those came from a similar IAC, then there should be little trouble slotting the head(s) of any stuck screw. Just don't slot down to the bottom, because the two halves of the now-slotted screw can surely twist right off. Does anyone also have a snap of this particular IAC?
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
Joined
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849 Posts
Thank you for the photo. If those came from a similar IAC, then there should be little trouble slotting the head(s) of any stuck screw. Just don't slot down to the bottom, because the two halves of the now-slotted screw can surely twist right off. Does anyone also have a snap of this particular IAC?
Pics are fasteners from my '94 4 cyl. Look up the IAC itself on RockAuto. Good pics there.
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
Excellent information - thank you.
Based on those illustrations at Rock Auto, there appear to be four (4) mounting screws. They all appear to be accessible for slotting, and without knowing what else is in the immediate area, I don't see why you can't use a small vise-grip on the screw heads.
Also, in the past I have used two people on difficult-to-remove cross-recess screws; One to press and hold the screwdriver into the head of the screw, and the other turns a vise-grip clamped onto the shaft of the screwdriver (this will probably chew up your screwdriver, so be warned). Clearly that won't be the case now that there is damage to the screw(s), but it may be helpful in the future if you have a chance to try it before the screws are too damaged.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
Joined
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849 Posts
They all appear to be accessible for slotting, and without knowing what else is in the immediate area, I don't see why you can't use a small vise-grip on the screw heads.
It's been a number of years since I pulled the IAC, but I doubt I would have notched the screw head if I could have gotten a vice grips on it.
 

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'96 Camry LE & '13 ES350
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Discussion Starter #34
I should have posted a picture a while ago! Here it is. The two screws in question are marked with a red box. Just took the picture in my office parking lot - when attempting to remove, I ofc removed the intake hose/air filter cover/resonator box assembly.

 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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849 Posts
What engine is that? V6? Go to Rock Auto and look up your IAC. I don't believe those two screws will remove the IAC, just partially disassemble it. It looks similar to the IAC on my 3VZ-FE but it's been at least a dozen years since I had to deal with it and I just don't remember. Now I understand your comments about the Dremel. No way on those two but they are not going to remove the IAC. You'll have a better idea after you see the picture of the whole IAC valve. I wrongly assumed you were asking about the 4 cylinder.
 

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They remove the windings for the stepper motor that controls the valve. To remove the valve itself you have to remove the screws on the body itself, which are behind and beneath the plastic part in that photo, on the bottom of the throttle body, if we say that the part pictured here is on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
What engine is that? V6? Go to Rock Auto and look up your IAC. I don't believe those two screws will remove the IAC, just partially disassemble it. It looks similar to the IAC on my 3VZ-FE but it's been at least a dozen years since I had to deal with it and I just don't remember. Now I understand your comments about the Dremel. No way on those two but they are not going to remove the IAC. You'll have a better idea after you see the picture of the whole IAC valve. I wrongly assumed you were asking about the 4 cylinder.
It's a 4-cyl (5SFE). My mistake if I was incorrectly referring to this piece as the IAC.

They remove the windings for the stepper motor that controls the valve. To remove the valve itself you have to remove the screws on the body itself, which are behind and beneath the plastic part in that photo, on the bottom of the throttle body, if we say that the part pictured here is on the front.
My goal is to get to the cylindrical magnet (as shown in this video) - I want to make sure it can rotate freely. It sounds like it might be easier at this point to take off the entire IAC valve (as opposed to the stepper motor, which I've been incorrectly referring to as the IAC in my earlier posts)?
 

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You should be able to remove the IAC with the stepper motor in place, as far as I can remember. In my experience the screws that hold the IAC to the throttle body are just as soft and stuck as the ones in the stepper motor, so be prepared for that.
 

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Just some guy
2001 4Runner SR5; 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE
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27 Posts
I do see how you mean that the screw heads are flush to the top of the housing. But I also believe that these are the screws that mount the valve to the body, not to mount the body to the engine. If you remove the valve body, you could more easily remove these other screws. Not that removing the valve body will be easy, though...
 
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