[lalojamesliz]

The FSM says to plug the vacuum lines for the vacuum advance on my 87 22r to set the timing. One has hardly any vacuum (maybe positive pressure? ) and the other vac line that goes to the vacuum advance has vacuum. If I plug the one that has vacuum the engine dies.
Right now I have the distributor set in the middle of the timing adjustment plate and my timing is at around 8 degrees with the vacuum lines connected OR not since the vacuum advance is not holding vacuum on either port. I just ordered a new distributor a day ago.
It runs good but seems to be using a lot of fuel. I'm trying to make this truck my DD and have seen small plans for this truck (paint,wheels,ect.) but not at the current gas usage.

I recently replaced the HG, water pump, timing chain,oil pump. I moved the chain on accident on the install but the crank keyway and cam timing mark both face up when at tdc.
Before I removed everything the engine temp was about 1\4 up for the short time I've had this truck. Now it's always right under half way all the time. It runs great but uses too much gas. I'm c driving the truck to calculate my mpg's but it's low teens.

 

[Wekadog]

. . . If I plug the [vacuum advance line] the engine dies . . . vacuum advance is not holding vacuum . . .

If I've got the story straight, you have been running with a vacuum leak. Doesn't a vacuum leak make the engine rev high? What if someone turned the idle adjust down to compensate? That might keep the engine from idling once you plug the leak.

Once you get your new distributor installed, a complete tune-up, carb included, will be in order.

 

[lalojamesliz]

I was just given this truck. I installed new ngk plugs/wires and cap/rotor. Even with this leak my vacuum is at -19 at 800 rpm. Before I replaced the HG it was as at 14-15 at 800 rpm
Once I installed a small tachometer I noticed it was a bit high (1k rpm). I lowered the rpms a Lil by adjusting the carb and ran the truck for probably 50 miles before I replaced the HG. Now I've driven it for 150 miles. I currently have the idle set at 800.
I want to drive it but I don't want to fry my valves or something else by running the timing badly set

 

[Wekadog]

I don't want to fry my valves or something else by running the timing badly set

Very wise decision.

If there' any question about the timing chain alignment, then double check it. When you're confident the valve timing is correct, then set ignition timing to spec and proceed. You won't do any damage to your valves that way.

If it doesn't run with correct valve and ignition timing, then something else is wrong. You will have to track it down the old fashioned way - verify compression, ignition and fuel.

 

[lalojamesliz]

I installed the new to me working distributor and it turned on fine but I had to hold the gas down a little. I adjusted the idle speed screw so it stays on but it idles at 1100rpm and if I lower the idle speed screw more I hear a click in the carb and the engine will stall.
If I adjust the Idle screw low enough to its right before the engine wants to stall, the engine will surge and I hear the same click type sound from the carb before the rpms drop.
Any ideas?

The compression is
180
180
180
170
Much much better since I replaced the HG and did a valve job.
Ignition is good
When I installed the chain, it moved a little on the cam gear but the crank key slot for the crank pulley and the cam gear timing mark both point at 12 o clock correctly. It runs great. Now it's just this carb/idle problem

 

[Wekadog]

. . . it stays on but it idles at 1100rpm and if I lower the idle speed screw more I hear a click in the carb and the engine will stall.

Could it be something as simple as a clogged slow jet or incorrect idle mixture? Look over the carb section of the FSM. You might try adjusting everything to procedure.


If it were me though, dealing with a never-ran-recently engine, I would disassemble and thoroughly clean the carb. Who knows what might be in there. Rust, varnish, even bugs. It's best to start from a known point.