[frighte]

Hey guys I need some advice finally after years of reading the TN forums but never having anything to post.

I have a 95 gen3.5 and it's been running with no probs up until now. Last week I was doing some routine fluid checks I noticed that my engine was sounding slightly deeper while in park. So I reved the engine a litte cuz I thot it was just cold. Then I noticed that when coming down the rev I hear 2 maybe 3 deep sputter/pop sounds. Not like a knock. I can't even hear it when I take my foot off the gas on the road because the sound of my car rolling is louder than the actual pop/sputter. Same result on a hot engine. No CELs. I put an intake in there and took out the air box a couple years ago and probably even helps me hear that sound better because there's no air box to restrict the noise. My educated guess is that my timing maybe slipped and I need to readjust it(hopefully it's just that and not a fuel pump...).

What do you guys think?

 

[Kep]

If you have the paraphenailia to check the timing go for it. However, I suspect that you need to get in and clean what I am calling "Kep's Trilogy" (I know, I have no shame). Clean the EGR system, the throttle body and the IAC valve.

Kep

 

[frighte]

Hmmm... one of the guys at work said that exact same thing. I'll clean out what I can before I get an expensive engine diagnostic. Thanks. If you guys have any more ideas let me know.

 

[Mike Gerber]

Your timing should not change unless your distributor is really worn. I would guess that it's not changing. If you really suspect that it is, get a timing light and check it. Don't forget to connect terminals TE1 and E1 of data link connector 1 (DLC 1) in the engine compartment first. The sounds you may be hearing could just be a popping in the exhaust system.

Mike

 

[toyomoho]

Try cleaning as Kep states, timing normally is not an issue unless something is seriously wrong.

 

[frighte]

Thank for all the advice guys. But there's one thing I completely forgot about that I did seemingly right before this all happened. After checking the fluids I popped off the intake hose and inspected the valve at the openning working the throttle to see if it was dirty. It wasn't. But while in the process of taking the hose clamp off I noticed it was sort of loose. When I stuck the hose back on the the intake manifold I stuck a new clamp on and tightened it pretty good. I just thought about this as I was driving home from work today like a granny because the rumble from my intake it seemed sounded like a monster(a good sounding monster) accelerating from a red light. So then I called a bud that told me that the small air leak at my intake manifold and tube could have caused my motor sound to be more quiet than it should have all this time I had that damn intake. "How the hell could i have not noticed that loose clamp all this time!!", I thought. So now I hope you guys can just tell me that I'm a dumbass and there's nothing wrong with my now loud as hell car. And that it was just that fricken air leak...




please...... you can figuratively smack me if this was it. seriously, go crazy.

 

[Mike Gerber]

If you still have the original intake setup that came with the car, put it back on and take the car for a test ride. If the car is now quiet, you have answered your question. This shouldn't take very long.

Mike

 

[frighte]

Dammit... Put the stock air box back in when I got home from work and still the sound. I think there's a little bit of exhaust fume smell at the front end somewhere. Now I suspect that I popped a hole in or around the catalytic converter under the motor where i can't see. Is this thing safe to drive about 7-8 miles on the streets to work(thats what I normally do)? The company has a regular mechanic I can take the thing to if I can get it there. Man, this is the first real prob I've had since I've owned it. Any thoughts/price?

btw, if you're wondering:
almost all stock I4 95 coupe
american edition(gold emblems and alloy rims)
intake
9005 9006 conversion
CA emission version
covered in tree pollen currently

 

[Mike Gerber]

The car should be safe to drive. If you are concerned, leave the window open a crack.

If you want to check the source of an exhaust leak yourself, get a person to help you and a rag. Start the car and let the car idle. Have the other person cover the tail pipe with the rag, while you move along and under the car listeneing for the source of the leak. The rag will force the exhaust out the hole, if there is one. If the car dies, you do not have a leak. Don't be concerned if it does die; it will start right back up once the rag is removed. Of course this is a bit easier with the car up on a lift.

Good luck.

Mike

 

[frighte]

I want to thank everyone for the advice I've received up to now - Kep, Mike, Toyomoho. I got the part replaced by my company's mechanic. Turns out the entire downpipe, flexpipe, catalytic converter section had to be replaced. The break was actually in the flex portion. And actually the replacement downpipe part looks higher quality than the old part, which was crimp/crunch-bent. They also went ahead and replaced a valve cover gasket leaking oil while they were down there for cheap. Car runs super quiet with the stock air box now. The only thing I notice now is a slight smell, sort of like deep fried banana or... well think of those Asian carmelized potato snack things on a stick. But I'm guessing that's just the new valve cover gasket and seals or exhaust gasket breaking in.

Thanks again guys! My cam is happy again.

 

[Mike Gerber]

The smell is probbly some kind of a coating on the new exhaust pieces burning off. It's probably there to keep the parts from rusting while be stored in Toyota's warehouse or the dealer's parts department. It should eventually go away.

Mike