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Beware of pigs
Little Pig
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2,487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
All these times I was smug having no CEL at all while you guys run into all kinds of EVAP problems. Not anymore. :(

After coming off of an alignment (attempt, the shop says the rear adjustable link is seized and can't adjust rear toe, but that's another story), CEL came on after two more trips.

Code is P0441. There isn't any other code and freeze frame says it triggered while in motion.

Went back home and did the FSM troubleshooting steps.

VC and PTNK voltages looks ok.
Vapor pressure sensor checks out, statically at least, I haven't checked its voltage with a vacuum applied yet.
EVAP VSV works. (The one behind the airbox)
Vapor pressure sensor VSV... It clicks, but isn't switching ports when I drive it on. And it's all rusted out. Gonna get a replacement, and change out the 3 hoses going into it as well.

What to look for next if after replacing it the code comes back?


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FSM troubleshooting steps for your benefit

P0441 EVAP Incorrect Purge Flow
P0446 EVAP Vent Control Malfunction

1. Check the VSV EVAP, VSV VPS (vapor pressure sensor) and VPS connectors for loose or disconnection.
2. Check vacuum hoses.
3. Check voltage between VC, E2 terminals of ECM connector...
4. Check voltage between PTNK and E2 of ECM connector...
Easy access: Remove the driver door scuff plate and the little kick panel ahead of it and you'll find a blue connector (IG1) with a yellow, blue and brown wire in it. Yellow is VC, blue is PTNK, brown is E2. Just probe here; no need to take out the center console and get all the way at the ECU. :D VC should be 4.5-5.5V when key on; PTNK should be 3.0-3.6 when key on, 1.3-2.1 with 15mmhg vacuum applied.
5. Only if the voltage isn't right you need to probe further.Another convenient probe point is a big blue connector (IJ2) left of the center storage bin cavity, but you just need to take out the lower bezel and the bin itself. Then check for opens and shorts. If no open or shorts, replace vapor pressure sensor.
6. Check purge flow: Disconnect the hose from green EVAP service port to the VSV behind airbox then start the engine. Now the open port should not suck. Apply battery voltage to the valve and it should suck.
7. Check vacuum hose between intake, VSV, charcoal canister.
8. Check VSV EVAP. Terminal should have 27-33 ohms and not shorted to shell. Replace if bad.
9. Check VSV VPS. Ground terminal TPC to turn on this VSV. Easy access: Remove 7.5A OBD fuse from instrument panel fuse block behind coin tray. Probe for a leg that does not have battery voltage (this is TPC) and tap a wire here. A "mini fuse" tap could work wonders. If OK, go to step 12.
10. Check VSV VPS. Terminals should have 37-44 ohms and not shorted to shell. Blow air into middle port and air should come out tail port. Apply 12V to the VSV and air should come out from the adjacent port instead.
11. Check for open and short in wiring between EFI relay, VSV VPS and ECU.
12. Check tank overfill check valve
13. Check charcoal canister.
 

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Senior TN Member
Porsche
Joined
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7,505 Posts
Steps 4 and onwards is key. When they say "check" they really mean measure vacuum levels. Some hoses should have vacuum at times and no vacuum at others. Same with last two steps. Check valve should block flow in one direction but not the other. Canister should flow and not be full of gas (overfilling will cause this).

Went through this last month with my wife's Scion xB after our niece ran over some speed-bumps at full speed. The jarring cracked some plastic hose fittings near canister and loosened some hose joints near one of the VSVs.
 

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Moderator
2012 corolla ce
Joined
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1,521 Posts
Best post ive read in a long while @Buurin. You seem to know exactly what your doing should be fixed in no time and welcome back after such a long trouble free period for your 8th gen.
 

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Beware of pigs
Little Pig
Joined
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2,487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's a jammed valve.

Thinking it is going to need replacement anyway I broke the valve off the car :facepalm: but after blasting it with more air on a table it seems to work again. Ziptie it back on, hook every thing up and went for a drive. Code has not returned. Now I can try sourcing a cheapo replacement. Dealer wants C$300 for the valve alone and the whole charcoal canister is C$525 including the valve. *gasp*
 
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