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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm trying to get out the alt fuse so I can have a look for blown fuses. I removed the bolts and it has VERY limited range. There is no wiggle room either up or down nor to the left due to another component. To the left is a small square item that reminds me of a radiator. It seems to have 2 modular looking hose connections that sit on top of this but I am at a loss to identify or or remove the hoses so I can gain more wiggle room. Anyone done this job before??
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What year and model is this? In any event, search youtube for how to replace the fuse you want to inspect or remove. That's not hoses it's electrical harnesses.

Here's one such video-

Thanks for that video reference. I DID scour youtube ( gotta LOVE youtube) for vids but didn't come across this one or I may have passed it by as it's so painfully bad to watch. I did get the one takeaway that none of the other vids mentioned was the disconnection of that center bolt that is above the alt fuseable link. Hopefully that will allow for a decent allowance to move the box vertically. This vid does not show the breakdown but thankfully other videos do that. Thanks again for the link. Hopefully this saves my neck. BTW car is a 2011 camry LE 2.5L 4 cyl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the same car so I hope you return to do a brief write-up. I took a look in case I ever have to do it and it doesn't look as easy as pie.

Well after trying to continue the fuse side panel removal yesterday ( even with the slimmest of ratcheting driver) I've come to the resignation that one must remove the ecu. ( that squarish box to the left of the fusebox) I don't know if disengaging the retaining plastic pin that holds it to the steel body would be enough to give it the room to bend it enough to take those dang tiny screws out. So I'll deal with that today. Yesterday I got 3 of the four screws out. Be assured I won't be replacing the screws when i replace it ( unless design absolutely makes it mandatory) My advice be sure and spot treat the ecu retaiing bolts with blaster now to give time for affecting rusted bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What fuses need to be checked from the bottom?

Well got most of it disconnected and checked today...still have to take the screws out from the fusible links row but will get that done tomorrow. Let me explain that the way I'm doing things is based on the fact I am working one the street, not in a nice cozy garage. So spending time out in these frigid temps are not my idea of fun. So I don't really want to take out the ecu or more if I don't have to. I resort to take the one metal retaining bolt that secure the back of the ecu to the firewall. I also partially took out the plastic clip that is situated underneath the metal bracket. If this were my car and if I had a cordless tool that could eat away at the plastic arm and the clip , I'd do it. Frankly I don't see a purprose for it as the metal bracket is plenty to secure the ecu. I think if you are able to do away with that plastic it would give you more room to make that throttled cable underneath the visible, more moveable and might afford you more fuse box mobility depending upon harness length. At this point given my limitations I am using a bit of 2X4 wood block for bracing the box in the direction or angle I need. I'm doing small vids if there is a way to post them here. The alt multilink fuse is the second blue one on the right in the box. THere are other smaller fuses but the big powered on (120 amp) is the big blue in the engine fuse box. There also is another 7.5 v fuse in the same box.
 
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