Sounds like you have some bad maintenance habits,all the things you described can be avoided with a little maintenance. as for the timing,set it with the t1 terminal jumped. The timing chain will eventually eat a hole through the water pump/timing cover housing possibly causing total engine failure due to antifreeze/oil mixing. Try adding some methal alcohol to the gas tank since yoiu run it low on gas all the time if there is any water in it the alcohol will mix with it and it will be burned. Sometimed you can get lucky and have the broken pices of timing chain guide right in the front when you remove the timing cover,most people just pull the pan, I left mine in the pan since they are plastic i dont think they will cause me much trouble or havent so far and it has been 20k miles since i replaced my chain.
F*** My Truck!
Not literally of course...
HI! This is My first posting.... My name is Ryan... and I'm a mechaniholic.
Recently my truck (91 Pickup 4x4 22r) has been giving me problem after problem after problem after problem. First my 3rd member completely devoured itself 4 miles after returning from an AC/DC concert that I had to drive 300 miles round trip to get to.
Then it decided that while I was driving the bracket that holds the battery down should pop out of its little hole and land on my positive terminal... because times aren't rough enough... I need a truck with cooked grounds.
Then the mass air went out....
NOW! NOW! I was driving and pulling out of a parking lot and it started to bog and sputter... I had aways to go so I drove it out and it mysteriously went away. I got stuck in traffic and it did it again... my truck kept dying so I'd restart it, floor it and hope it'd decide to rev up instead of bog down. I got it home.
I believe it is the fuel filter. The truck has 170k on it and it's something I've worried about for awhile. I'm one of those "I don't need gas till it's ON E" people so I'm sure its sucked up some gunk. I'm thinking there is a clog in it that is sometimes blocking and sometimes isnt... it's just kinda squishing around in there. I know Toyota says they "Aren't supposed to go bad" but lets be realistic... anything treated poorly will not stand the test of mileage.
So I have that change tomorrow... Looking forward to it.
Next i had some questions regarding cleaning the throttle body/TPS/Intake.
Is there anything to clean on the TPS? Or just adjust it. The throttle body I get and as for the intake do I just use carb cleaner on it?
ALSO...
When I set the timing I was told by the guy at the smog shop that it should be set to -4.... is that in diagnostic mode (terminals jumped) or not in diagnostic mode.... what do I set it to in diagnostics mode?
AND FINALLY! My timing chain guides have broken... it sounds like some homies from the project buildings are shooting craps in my timing chain cover... I do not have the money to replace this although it is on my list... is there any way to dig the broken pieces out of there?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.. hell... you might even get an x-mas card :thumbsup:
So that's my formal intro..... NICE TO MEET YOU ALL!
HI! This is My first posting.... My name is Ryan... and I'm a mechaniholic.
Recently my truck (91 Pickup 4x4 22r) has been giving me problem after problem after problem after problem. First my 3rd member completely devoured itself 4 miles after returning from an AC/DC concert that I had to drive 300 miles round trip to get to.
Then it decided that while I was driving the bracket that holds the battery down should pop out of its little hole and land on my positive terminal... because times aren't rough enough... I need a truck with cooked grounds.
Then the mass air went out....
NOW! NOW! I was driving and pulling out of a parking lot and it started to bog and sputter... I had aways to go so I drove it out and it mysteriously went away. I got stuck in traffic and it did it again... my truck kept dying so I'd restart it, floor it and hope it'd decide to rev up instead of bog down. I got it home.
I believe it is the fuel filter. The truck has 170k on it and it's something I've worried about for awhile. I'm one of those "I don't need gas till it's ON E" people so I'm sure its sucked up some gunk. I'm thinking there is a clog in it that is sometimes blocking and sometimes isnt... it's just kinda squishing around in there. I know Toyota says they "Aren't supposed to go bad" but lets be realistic... anything treated poorly will not stand the test of mileage.
So I have that change tomorrow... Looking forward to it.
Next i had some questions regarding cleaning the throttle body/TPS/Intake.
Is there anything to clean on the TPS? Or just adjust it. The throttle body I get and as for the intake do I just use carb cleaner on it?
ALSO...
When I set the timing I was told by the guy at the smog shop that it should be set to -4.... is that in diagnostic mode (terminals jumped) or not in diagnostic mode.... what do I set it to in diagnostics mode?
AND FINALLY! My timing chain guides have broken... it sounds like some homies from the project buildings are shooting craps in my timing chain cover... I do not have the money to replace this although it is on my list... is there any way to dig the broken pieces out of there?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.. hell... you might even get an x-mas card :thumbsup:
So that's my formal intro..... NICE TO MEET YOU ALL!
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
I don't really have too bad of maintenance habits... I bought the truck almost a year ago to the day. It ran horrid when I bought it and has done nothing but improve.... it runs alot better it just has occasional things that like to cause me pain and suffering
So as far as the TPS goes... ???
And set it to -4 with t1 jumped? If that's the case that's how it is
Any other cheap quick tricks to make it run better? Already set the idle, timing (to what I believe is correct), plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fixed the exhaust leak...
As my serpantine belt goes around there is a loud whine... think it's my alternator? It's a high pitched lopey whine.
And finally.. Injector tick.... fixable/ non fixable??
And set it to -4 with t1 jumped? If that's the case that's how it is
Any other cheap quick tricks to make it run better? Already set the idle, timing (to what I believe is correct), plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fixed the exhaust leak...
As my serpantine belt goes around there is a loud whine... think it's my alternator? It's a high pitched lopey whine.
And finally.. Injector tick.... fixable/ non fixable??
It's the 22re right? The Factory specs are -5 degrees for the timing with the terminal jumped. But I have also heard they have a 2 degree tolerance each way so the 4 degrees could be just fine. That high pitched whine could be your belt is too tight. I just burned one up because It was too tight and it was screaming for it's life by the end. Clean out the throttle body. I bet you are supprised with how nasty it is behind the butterfly. Get some cleaner and a tooth brush and go to town. I even took mine off and shot cleaner through each vacuum port. Buy a new gasket if you do that. I took out my idle adjusting screw and cleaned all of that too. Finally run some seafoam through the power steering vacuum line. The instructions for that are on the can.
That should help it run better.
I have been told that solvents ruin the TPS. Be careful around that thing with cleaners.
I think the injector tick just means it's a toyota. How can you even hear them over the broken guides?
That should help it run better.
I have been told that solvents ruin the TPS. Be careful around that thing with cleaners.
I think the injector tick just means it's a toyota. How can you even hear them over the broken guides?
Thank You Sir! I will give the TB cleaning a shot... I gots no power steering, which basically eliminates me having to do any exercise on a day where I drive. I'll tune it to the -5 with it jumped if that is factory specs....
As for the broken guides, they are only loud when I rev it... If you stand with the hood popped just looking at the engine injector tick is all you hear, sounds like an arc somewhere but all wires are on there good
While doing the fuel filter I noticed a sensor plugged into the block about 2 inches to the left of the oil filter and about 1 inch up. I unplugged all of the sensors down there so I could get the fuel filter out however I didn't need to pull that one out... it just kinda came out. I fixed it and now my check engine light no longer comes on... since I fixed that and had the battery disconnected for longer than 15.
I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. At first it ran fine... even felt a little better than before, but that was probably just in my head. It resorted back to the sputtering problem... I assembled my team of scientists to think of why... here is what we concluded (Note: We was just me... I have no friends)
Every time it has acted funny in the last week it has been after coming off the freeway... which have been the only 2 times it has been driven in the last week far enough to get it to operating temperature. It doesn't do it... it doesn't even do it after getting off the freeway... but after turning my car off (which if I am not mislead HEATS the engine) then getting back in it in 5 or 10 minutes and starting it...
I also must say that it does not do it on the freeway even when sputtering and jerking before getting on the freeway... If it follows the pattern then I imagine it is because of all the incoming freeway air cooling the engine...
SO MY FRIENDS I ASK YOU THIS: What part on a car will only make it run rough once at operating temperature? Any other Idears? Anything is appreciated! Happy 5th of May Everybody!
As for the broken guides, they are only loud when I rev it... If you stand with the hood popped just looking at the engine injector tick is all you hear, sounds like an arc somewhere but all wires are on there good
While doing the fuel filter I noticed a sensor plugged into the block about 2 inches to the left of the oil filter and about 1 inch up. I unplugged all of the sensors down there so I could get the fuel filter out however I didn't need to pull that one out... it just kinda came out. I fixed it and now my check engine light no longer comes on... since I fixed that and had the battery disconnected for longer than 15.
I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. At first it ran fine... even felt a little better than before, but that was probably just in my head. It resorted back to the sputtering problem... I assembled my team of scientists to think of why... here is what we concluded (Note: We was just me... I have no friends)
Every time it has acted funny in the last week it has been after coming off the freeway... which have been the only 2 times it has been driven in the last week far enough to get it to operating temperature. It doesn't do it... it doesn't even do it after getting off the freeway... but after turning my car off (which if I am not mislead HEATS the engine) then getting back in it in 5 or 10 minutes and starting it...
I also must say that it does not do it on the freeway even when sputtering and jerking before getting on the freeway... If it follows the pattern then I imagine it is because of all the incoming freeway air cooling the engine...
SO MY FRIENDS I ASK YOU THIS: What part on a car will only make it run rough once at operating temperature? Any other Idears? Anything is appreciated! Happy 5th of May Everybody!
make sure IACV isn't too open or too closed
pull off your upper intake manifold and clean it
clean your throttle body physically
make sure the pipe AFTER the Vane Air Flow Meter has no leaks in it
and yes, this happens to me whenever i get off the highway or turn off the motor after long drives and try to restart. This is what we call "heat soak". it's very natural, but plan things a bit early, and let the motor circulate it's fluids (and you may assist by applying very little throttle after startup... this helps circulate faster)
pull off your upper intake manifold and clean it
clean your throttle body physically
make sure the pipe AFTER the Vane Air Flow Meter has no leaks in it
and yes, this happens to me whenever i get off the highway or turn off the motor after long drives and try to restart. This is what we call "heat soak". it's very natural, but plan things a bit early, and let the motor circulate it's fluids (and you may assist by applying very little throttle after startup... this helps circulate faster)
What he said~
Also, check for any vacuum leaks as those hoses are getting up in years and are starting to crack. Leaks can be VERY tricky so use an UNLIT propane torch around the hoses & listen for idle up.
Also, check for any vacuum leaks as those hoses are getting up in years and are starting to crack. Leaks can be VERY tricky so use an UNLIT propane torch around the hoses & listen for idle up.
Sweet guys! I'll check it out! So it's natural for that to happen? Um if that's natural and I can't fix it then I am selling my truck... I clean pools so getting out and getting back in happens... I cant have it shaking and jerking and sputtering and cutting out just cuz it's warm... that's total BS! GRRRR.... like the thread is titled... F*** MY TRUCK!
SO how would I check the IAC valve for its amount of openness?
Ive been having troubles with my pickup too. although mine spits and sputters all the time. I had a guy thats worked on alot of toybox's tell me to check the ignition coil. I didnt understand that cause they normally crap out when they get warm. So that could be a possibility for yours
Howdy Folks.... So I got the problem fixed and figured I'd leave a little ditty about what it was.
It started getting worse and it would do it on any drive about 2 miles or more.... if it made it more. I even broke down in front of a cop at a light... with expired registration! go me! He didn't care...
So after reding the last post I was convinced that coil would be my savior! I put the new coil on and it didnt work....
THE PROBLEM WAS....
A broken clip. The connector that connects the distributor wires to the wiring on top of the coil bracket was broken and had been taped... my guess was years back.. slowly his tape job failed and the connector was sitting in there only half way. I plugged it in all the way... taped it up TIGHT... and voi la! she doesnt sputter anymore. However it hasnt been long enough for me to not be scared that she will. I will keep you posted if she goes bonkers again.... thank you so much for all of your input... you are the gods of the internet!
It started getting worse and it would do it on any drive about 2 miles or more.... if it made it more. I even broke down in front of a cop at a light... with expired registration! go me! He didn't care...
So after reding the last post I was convinced that coil would be my savior! I put the new coil on and it didnt work....
THE PROBLEM WAS....
A broken clip. The connector that connects the distributor wires to the wiring on top of the coil bracket was broken and had been taped... my guess was years back.. slowly his tape job failed and the connector was sitting in there only half way. I plugged it in all the way... taped it up TIGHT... and voi la! she doesnt sputter anymore. However it hasnt been long enough for me to not be scared that she will. I will keep you posted if she goes bonkers again.... thank you so much for all of your input... you are the gods of the internet!
dude i think you should probably sell it quick while it's running good, your really throwing good money after bad at this point, take it from someone who knows from experience. It seems stupid after all the money you've put in to it, but you have to cut your losses eventually.
so yer diff blew after it got you home? Nice 
These toyotas know when to break down! My timing belt snapped in my driveway
These toyotas know when to break down! My timing belt snapped in my driveway
My timing gear sheared off in the middle of a crowded 6 lane...
Haha have any of you ever tried to replace a fuel injector? pain in the ass. the Intake manifold has to come off just to even get at the fuel rail. have it all tore down, sitting in my driveway, put the fuel rail back on because i cant find an injector for anything less then $185 that i dont have to order. If anyone out there knows of a place where i can get one within a week for less then 60-70$ i would praise you for probably a few hours... thanks
is it just one injector that's totally bad? cuz you can have them cleaned for like 30 bucks...
maybe try 1sttoyotaparts.com? idk it may still be more than you want to pay...
maybe try 1sttoyotaparts.com? idk it may still be more than you want to pay...
Everyone over on yotatech uses and praises witchhunter performance http://www.witchhunter.com/ for injector cleaning and flow testing - $18 per injector, plus $10 for return ship (you pay to ship to them). Their turnaround is very quick - usually a day or two max, and they apparently do a great job. New o-rings are included in the price. Obviously you want to send all your injectors - you don't want one injector to have a high flow rate and the others to have lower flows.
If you need an injector, you can buy a remanufactured one. rockauto.com has Beck/Arnley remans for $30 and GB remans for $33, at least for my 89 3VZE. They're a great vendor - used them many times:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1277704,parttype,6224
The problem with buying just one remanufactured injector is that it will have like-new flow rates and your old ones will have lower flows. So if you do need to buy an injector, you should send the others to witchhunter. You may even want to send the newly-purchased reman along with yours, and just have witchhunter flow test it. They charge $9 for that.
The other option is to buy a used injector from a junkyard/ebay/craigs, and if it ohms out okay, send it with yours to be cleaned.
If you need an injector, you can buy a remanufactured one. rockauto.com has Beck/Arnley remans for $30 and GB remans for $33, at least for my 89 3VZE. They're a great vendor - used them many times:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1277704,parttype,6224
The problem with buying just one remanufactured injector is that it will have like-new flow rates and your old ones will have lower flows. So if you do need to buy an injector, you should send the others to witchhunter. You may even want to send the newly-purchased reman along with yours, and just have witchhunter flow test it. They charge $9 for that.
The other option is to buy a used injector from a junkyard/ebay/craigs, and if it ohms out okay, send it with yours to be cleaned.
and when reinstalling them, i beg you to have ALOT OF PATIENCE.
I put mine in a "weird" angle and when started, i had this fuel leak.... high pressure fuel leak that is!
I put mine in a "weird" angle and when started, i had this fuel leak.... high pressure fuel leak that is!
Well to be honest.... cosmetically the truck is jacked... it's spray painted with a dinged up fender.. been in an accident... I've tried to do what I can on a limited budget with it. I am not a person that really cares too much about their vehicles appearance so it doesn't bother me too bad. I won't be able to get a whole lot for it if I sell it. I bought it for 2200... and it had bigger tires and all these tube bumpers and smitty bars and a camper... so I scrapped all that stuff. It's strictly a work truck for me so cosmetics means nothing. I'm hoping if I just keep fixing things on it... eventually it will be sound. Considering I have the very very very very base model, there isn't a whole lot to break. No AC, No Power Steering (On a 91!!), I never use the 4wd... in fact I'm trying to rig up a way to remove the front end and transfer case and tranny so I can swap with a 2wd transmission and driveline. I like my trucks 4wd look (even though it sits lower than stock due to the tires I put on it) but I want the 2wd gas mileage... and I'm also one of those people that like old school vehicles with working room... in my opinion if it isn't absolutely critical to the vehicle moving then it is expendable.... I want it gone! I want my vehicle to be Bare essentials plus a cd player... that's it! It's only my work truck =)
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