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I own a 2001 Toyota Camry and the radiator fan will not turn off. There are two fans and it started with fan no.2 consistently running while the car was off, which led to draining my battery. I went to autozone and purchased a new relayz i tested it with removing fan no.2 relay which turned the fan off. Fan no. 1 wasnt running at that time so i pulled that relay out and put it in fan no.2 relay spot to see if it would turn the fan on and it didnt. So i put fan no.1 relay back to its correct location and purchased a new relay for fan no.1 because that has to be the problem since the fan wouldnt come on with fan no.1’s relay. I drove home and turned the car off and now both of the fans run while the car off and will not unless i disconnect the battery! I removed both of the relays and fan no.1 will even still spin!! I dont know what to do. Please help!


-Austin
 

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It's doubtful that relays are the problem. They are working (that is, doing their bit to pass current to the fans), since the fans run.

Check your wiring diagram to see what directs the fans to run. Very likely it's at least two things: (1) a temperature sensor on the engine and (2) either the a/c switch or something energized when the a/c switch is on.

If you don't have a wiring diagram... well, you can't really diagnose electrical problems without one.

If you'd rather fire parts cannons than read a diagram (or take it to a shop with a good electrical gremlin finder), I'd start with the temperature sensor that triggers the fans. Where that is, I don't know, sorry.
 

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The 2.2's have the thermo-switch located on the bottom of the radiator and the 3 liters have thermo-switches on the rad and water/coolant pipe. It is these switch (or one of these switches for the 3 liter) that are closed and thus triggering the fans.


As OleAvalon indicated above it is most likely one of the following 1)A/C switch related, 2) Thermo fan switch or I'll throw in a third the main ignition relay as I believe it plays a role in the fan circuit as well.


Thermo-switches are easy to troubleshoot. At room temperature they should have zero continuity on a VOM, at around 190ish degrees and above they will have full continuity. The switch is either thermally open or closed.
 
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