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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here installed fender flares on their AE92, specifically the wagon, but even the sedan would be okay.

I'm probably going to have to do this with my new wheels when they come in and I was looking to see if anyone had any resources or info on this. I know there are universal flares out there which is fine, but with the way the rear doors are formed and how close they are to the rear wheel arches I wasn't sure if cutting the flares THAT much was going to be something that would work very well. Thoughts?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I know they won't stop it from catching on the arches, that part I'm not worried about, its more to cover over the tire itself from poking. I know if I go that route I'm going to need to cut the universal flares to fit where the door comes close to the arch itself, it's a narrow gap there.
 
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No I know they won't stop it from catching on the arches, that part I'm not worried about, its more to cover over the tire itself from poking. I know if I go that route I'm going to need to cut the universal flares to fit where the door comes close to the arch itself, it's a narrow gap there.
You might want to look and see what's available for a Civic sedan, as most of the aftermarket is geared toward them, versus 30+ year old cars. It's one of the reasons my son sold me his Geo and bought a Civic, as getting parts for it was hard or most were NLA. It didn't bother me, as I just fabricated what I needed when doing rust repair. I used some wheel well lips from a Chevy Astro van to replace the rotted wheel wells on my Prizm. I figure if I have to go back in and replace them I'll cut up some repro Corolla front fenders for the lips and patch panels. I have a tendency to work with shapes. versus actual parts and pieces when doing rust repair. You could probably fabricate some flares easier than you think out of cardboard, tape and fiberglass. Just a thought. ;)
 

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Or you can attempt to make your own. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube to make a panel with expandable foam. From there, shape it into something.

Those that have used this method, put down something over the fender and quarters so it doesn’t make a mess of the body.
 

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Or you can attempt to make your own. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube to make a panel with expandable foam. From there, shape it into something.

Those that have used this method, put down something over the fender and quarters so it doesn’t make a mess of the body.
Exactly. It wouldn't be hard to make your own flares. Having worked with cardboard and fiberglass before, and or watching "Full Custom Garage" on TV (Motor Trend TV) it looks pretty easy to use foam, a cheese grater, and fiberglass to create whatever shapes you want. As for covering the body, masking paper or "butcher block" paper would work, then just use some carb or brake parts cleaner to get any excess off the painted steel. Sometimes you just have to think outside of the box. I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the tips, that does help. I'm not opposed to fabricating my own at all. Mostly what I'm wondering about is the gap between the door and the arch near the back doors, but I think fabricating my own solves that issue for the most part. The universal fender flares would work for most of it, I just don't see how to make them work in that particular portion of the arch.

You might want to look and see what's available for a Civic sedan, as most of the aftermarket is geared toward them, versus 30+ year old cars. It's one of the reasons my son sold me his Geo and bought a Civic, as getting parts for it was hard or most were NLA. It didn't bother me, as I just fabricated what I needed when doing rust repair. I used some wheel well lips from a Chevy Astro van to replace the rotted wheel wells on my Prizm. I figure if I have to go back in and replace them I'll cut up some repro Corolla front fenders for the lips and patch panels. I have a tendency to work with shapes. versus actual parts and pieces when doing rust repair. You could probably fabricate some flares easier than you think out of cardboard, tape and fiberglass. Just a thought. ;)
Yeah finding parts for this car have been an adventure for sure, I've mostly just have had to get creative, which I like anyways.
 
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Thanks for all the tips, that does help. I'm not opposed to fabricating my own at all. Mostly what I'm wondering about is the gap between the door and the arch near the back doors, but I think fabricating my own solves that issue for the most part. The universal fender flares would work for most of it, I just don't see how to make them work in that particular portion of the arch.



Yeah finding parts for this car have been an adventure for sure, I've mostly just have had to get creative, which I like anyways.
My suggestion would be to possibly make the door part of the wide body. Would look cheesy, but nobody ever tried.

As is, the dog leg is thin. Won’t have enough area to fabricate and may have to use the door to blend it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My suggestion would be to possibly make the door part of the wide body. Would look cheesy, but nobody ever tried.

As is, the dog leg is thin. Won’t have enough area to fabricate and may have to use the door to blend it.
True, could do that. Maybe I'll mock something up and see what that looks like.
 
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My suggestion would be to possibly make the door part of the wide body. Would look cheesy, but nobody ever tried.

As is, the dog leg is thin. Won’t have enough area to fabricate and may have to use the door to blend it.
A lot of that depends on how wide he makes the flare. Granted he'll have to trim out part of the flare for the door opening, but there's nothing that says he can't fill in that space on the door. It might be worth having a look at some of the pics I put in my thread on doing some of the rust repair work on the rockers and rear wheel arches. Some of that will come into play when doing your flares. In my case, rot beat me to using good metal of the car, so I was free to do whatever I wanted. That little "dog leg" is double layered, so you have to make the outer layer fit over the inner, and yet clear the door edge. Fortunately, there's really nothing in that part of the door to have to construct around. You will want to make a nice smooth transition from inside the door opening to that little dog leg though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A lot of that depends on how wide he makes the flare. Granted he'll have to trim out part of the flare for the door opening, but there's nothing that says he can't fill in that space on the door. It might be worth having a look at some of the pics I put in my thread on doing some of the rust repair work on the rockers and rear wheel arches. Some of that will come into play when doing your flares. In my case, rot beat me to using good metal of the car, so I was free to do whatever I wanted. That little "dog leg" is double layered, so you have to make the outer layer fit over the inner, and yet clear the door edge. Fortunately, there's really nothing in that part of the door to have to construct around. You will want to make a nice smooth transition from inside the door opening to that little dog leg though.
I'll take a look at your thread. I don't think it's going to be super wide, might poke a little so I am not looking to go extreme. The new wheels are 15x8 with a +20 offset. From what it looks like they will poke slightly but we shall see.
 
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I'll take a look at your thread. I don't think it's going to be super wide, might poke a little so I am not looking to go extreme. The new wheels are 15x8 with a +20 offset. From what it looks like they will poke slightly but we shall see.
It's like I said above, you can mock up a flare(s) with some cardboard and tape. That would let you decide how wide you want to make them, and give you some ideas of how to work around the rear door opening.
IDK, does the wagon version have an external fuel door like the sedan does? Just asking as you'll want to keep that in mind when figuring out how tall up the fender you'll want to go. Otherwise you could find yourself having to deal with 2 doors on the same flare.
 

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You could incorporate something similar to the rocket bunny on the frs. The issue will be that it wouldn’t be as clean at the dog leg. It will work, but definition speaking it wouldn’t look right to me.
 

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You could incorporate something similar to the rocket bunny on the frs. The issue will be that it wouldn’t be as clean at the dog leg. It will work, but definition speaking it wouldn’t look right to me.
It's also why I suggested something custom made. I mean he's planning on putting it on his wagon, so it'll be custom regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's like I said above, you can mock up a flare(s) with some cardboard and tape. That would let you decide how wide you want to make them, and give you some ideas of how to work around the rear door opening.
IDK, does the wagon version have an external fuel door like the sedan does? Just asking as you'll want to keep that in mind when figuring out how tall up the fender you'll want to go. Otherwise you could find yourself having to deal with 2 doors on the same flare.
I guess I have never paid attention to the sedan's fuel door but as far as I know it's the same? I guess I don't quite understand when you say external fuel door.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's probably not going to be SUPER wide or high up the fender, as far as I can tell my new wheel setup will poke, but not to an extreme level, but maybe I am wrong. The new setup is 15x8 with a +20 offset. My current setup is 17x7 I however don't know what the offset is on them, I bought them quite awhile ago and have completely forgotten, but I do know it's not +20? But they are relatively flush.
 

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It's probably not going to be SUPER wide or high up the fender, as far as I can tell my new wheel setup will poke, but not to an extreme level, but maybe I am wrong. The new setup is 15x8 with a +20 offset. My current setup is 17x7 I however don't know what the offset is on them, I bought them quite awhile ago and have completely forgotten, but I do know it's not +20? But they are relatively flush.
Well, on the sedan, the fuel door is about 3.5 inches above the wheel well opening lip, or about 1.5 inches above and rearward of the flare (existing metal one).
I was only asking about the fuel door on a wagon, as I've never seen one (a wagon version) personally in my area, as rust had already eaten them up. I got lucky when I found my sedan, but it had already started it's slow disappearance due to salt, and the iron moths. ;) All I know is that my fuel door is external (flush with the quarter panel), and is something that I had to pay attention to when I was rebuilding my fender arches, as they had sever rust, that I had to rebuild (both layers).

Your existing rims are probably ET+40 (a common spec shared with many models), since your set up is pretty flush. I know Honda for example uses +40 on most of their models, and in particular Civic's of the 4 lug variety (4-100 pattern), and even Accords (4-114 pattern).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh gotcha, yes the fuel door is just the same then. The wheels that are currently on my car came off of my Mini when I sold it, I kept the wheels and kind of forced them to work on the Corolla (man was that a task....). I was thinking they are somewhere in the +40 - +45 range, somewhere in there.

I am excited for the new wheels to show up, plus I have some other goodies I'm going to be installing around the same time. I have a good car day coming here soon and I am getting impatient lol.

I'll make sure to take some pics when I am done, excluding fender flares of course.
 
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