Few Random Turbo Questions.. 5SFTE

1076 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by RedPhoenix, Jan 5, 2006

RedPhoenix

Discussion Starter · Jan 4, 2006 (Edited)

Okay, I just recieved my CT26... so now i was thinking about piping...

1) It has a 2" outlet for the air, and I wanted to use 2.5" for intercooler... maybe 2.25". Do you think that would be okay for my application (low boost). Also, should I just use a 90* 2" to 2.5 (or 2.25) adapter for my piping? sad to say this but would that look weird (i know it will work, worried about asthetics.. :lol

2) filter side is 2.75ish, so just use an adapter for my 3" K&N or can i somehow squeeze it on.

3) I wanted to route the piping under the headlight housing on both sides to get to and from my intercooler, looking at it, the driver side looks very easy to fit a 2.5" pipe, but the passenger side is tight, (another reason i was thinking 2.25) but i bet with some minor (dremel) mods i can get it to work, i think ufoz did this, correct me if im wrong

4) looking at my ct26, lots more barbs that i thought. I see the oil lines, coolant lines, but now the hoses on the turbine housing and the wastegate. 1 is sticking out on the turbine, 2 is on the wastegate. 1 of them ones on the wastegate was plugged when i recieved it in the mail. what should I do? do i just connect each to a vacuum line (which one) or they go together.. no idea, help

5) one more, rather dumb. want to make sure my wastegate is okay. its hard to open up moving the rod. is it supposed to be.. lets just say, i think im putting more than 8 lbs of pressure to move it open... normal?

thanks:clap:

Yellow are vacuum, pink coolant.

heres a pic of the turbo.

sorry i spilt some oil on the exhaust side...

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ag6286

· #2 · Jan 4, 2006

11. why up it to 2.5"? this is only neccessary if your planning on upgrading later since flow will ALWAYS be constricted to the area of the 2" outlet. unless of course thers more flow from the intercooler with a 2.5" vs. a 2" (given ther is a 2", i don't know much about intercooler options/sizes)

2. just get a cheap adapter...

3. i know thers plenty of room on driver side but as for other i dont know space wise, but i dont see any problem what so ever with a little dremel action on that side (gotta love those dremels

)

4. got me man but im curious myself since i have an xtra sittin in my garage/barn

5. itll work....maybe

alota help i am :bullshit2 (atleast for the important questions 4&5)

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luisitol

· #3 · Jan 4, 2006

about #5.... it'll feel like alot more pressure because you applying the pressure on the rod is not the same as the air pressure being fed into it. you can always get a pressure tester and just make sure its working properly but it shouldn't be set at higher than 8 unless you see a series of washers extending hte rod (a cheap way to modify the opening and closing points of the wastegate)

about #4 the nipple coming out of the compressor side is for boost reference. The dual nipples on your wastegate actuator I'll have to get back to you on.

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white90dx

· #4 · Jan 4, 2006

The intercooler piping on Ufoz's car goes down below each frame rail and around to get to the intercooler - nowhere near the headlights.

The two magenta lines are water lines (I think you already knew this)

The two ports on the wastegate actuator are both connected the same inside the actuator. If you want to run 7-8lbs, just connect the boost reference line (turbo outlet nipple) to the open port on the wastegate actuator and block off the second line...

An 8-psi wastegate actuator takes a lot of force to open. If its hard to move it without tools, its about right...

Hope that helps.

-Charlie

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RedPhoenix

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 4, 2006

Thanks so far

still in question about #4, the sticky says that the open one on the wastegate goes to the turbo housing.

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88 LE

· #6 · Jan 4, 2006

RedPhoenix said:
Thanks so far still in question about #4, the sticky says that the open one on the wastegate goes to the turbo housing.

Yup.

Run a hose from there to the nipple on the compressor housing.

4) looking at my ct26, lots more barbs that i thought. I see the oil lines, coolant lines, but now the hoses on the turbine housing and the wastegate. 1 is sticking out on the turbine, 2 is on the wastegate.

Thats the compressor housing, not the turbine.

Compressor housing = aluminum part

Turbine housing = rusty cast iron part

And the CHRA (center housing rotating assembly) is between the compressor and turbine housing.

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RedPhoenix

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 4, 2006

thanks ^

so just do a T line to connect a boost gauge between the wastegate and compressor housing?

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zoni

· #8 · Jan 4, 2006

no you dont want a boost gauge or anything else connected there... if you arent going to run a boost controller, then you run the compressor boost port to the open one on the wastegate. if you use a bost controller, you put that between the compressor and the wg.

run a boost gauge off of the intake manifold, same place the MAP sensor sees the boost.

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RedPhoenix

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 5, 2006

oh okay.. thanks again

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WhiteRabbit

· #10 · Jan 5, 2006

good luck!

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BlewPeel

· #11 · Jan 5, 2006

where'd u get your turbo from? i've been looking on ebay but i don't think i've been looking at the right stuff. can anyone help!

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white90dx

· #12 · Jan 5, 2006

BlewPeel said:
where'd u get your turbo from? i've been looking on ebay but i don't think i've been looking at the right stuff. can anyone help!

Try the MR2 boards - www.mr2oc.com You can get a good used CT26 for under $200.

-Charlie

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RedPhoenix

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 5, 2006 (Edited)

i got mine from mr2oc.com for $200 shipped its a jdm ct26 with very little shaft play, rebuilt about 20k ago

i got my fuel injectors today too!

They are very cleaned, were cleaned by RC engineering not so long ago. RX7 460cc high imps. Also got 4 manifold to turbo studs, nuts, and gasket... costed $48! rapage!

Still waiting for my AEM wideband

and map sensor!

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