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Really wanted to change the oil myself, but the mechanics who changed it last time really went overboard. The oil gasket crush washer was torqued beyond recognition, but managed to get that off with not much issue.

Tried to remove the filter housing with a conventional filter wrench, no budging. Purchased the proper Motivx 64mm filter housing adapter I've seen recommended on this forum. Tried using that with socket wrench, didn't budge.

Following reqs I've seen online, I put a bit of shop towel between the adapter and the filter housing to remove any play between the two, and used a 14" inch breaker bar. Still nothing. Did manage to deform the 3/8" socket on the filter adapter, so at least I know I'm putting a decent amount of force behind it.

I don't have access to a impact gun, any other ideas before mechanic gets it? fyi, yes, I am turning the right direction as is indicated on the filter housing.

Thanks
 

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2012 Camry XLE, 2007 HiHy Limited
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I'd suggest a longer breaker bar (2 ft should work) or cheat pipe and getting a 27mm / 1-1/16" socket for the hex on top of the filter wrench. Also make sure that the metal clips that are supposed to keep the filter housing from turning are bent back. I had to do the same thing after the one time I took mine in to the dealer for an oil change. Pretty sure I pushed my foot against the passenger side tire to try to break the housing free too.

Thanks dealer.
 

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Warm the engine up very well. The warmer engine oil canister housing can be removed much easier then.
 

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Plastic oil canister housings always seem to get stuck, be ready to replace it with a metal oil canister housing should you get it removed so it is not stuck on again. Whose fault? I blame design.
I think that is true of the ones made by Toyota. But the ones made by Mahle (and used in many different auto brands) are much better made and I have never had a problem getting one off. I guess Toyota wanted to make their own to save a few bucks.

I have seen many horror stories on this forum about poorly machined threads on the Toyota filter housing (the male and/or female threads).
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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I think that is true of the ones made by Toyota. But the ones made by Mahle (and used in many different auto brands) are much better made and I have never had a problem getting one off. I guess Toyota wanted to make their own to save a few bucks.

I have seen many horror stories on this forum about poorly machined threads on the Toyota filter housing (the male and/or female threads).
That or we can blame the techs since apparently each and every single one at each and every single dealership from east to west from north to south apparently uses an impact gun to tighten them. ?‍♀
 

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You must use a full-sized 1/2" breaker bar and big socket to deliver the needed torque here.

And the filter housing tool must engage not only the wrench flats but also the "wings" up nearer to the threaded base of the housing. Be sure that the housing tool is forced on all the way (and which may require a bit of force to later pull it off).

Again, this is just no job for a 14" wrench handle or even a 1/2" square drive into the aluminum tool!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Make absolutely CERTAIN that your car is solidly supported before reefing on the breaker bar with your body underneath.

This job will be much easier next time, after the housing is properly/modestly hand-tightened with the wrench. These housings are not known to loosen on their own, and their sealing ring depends not at all on the tightening torque applied to the housing!
 

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Leftie loosie righty tighty
Counter clockwise takes it off. Find many make a mistake because they are on their back under the car.

Impact will take it off .. Use breaker bar on proper cartridge wrench and hit the breaker bar with a hammer.

You can only go so far with a cartridge. It is not overtightened. Cartridge stops when it runs out of thread. It won't tighten any further.
O-ring expands from absorbing oil. O-ring causes the removal issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
An update for anyone interested/googling this issue. Tried some of the above, no luck.

Took it to mechanic, they had to use impact gun is was stuck so tight. Plastic housing broke/shattered, getting replaced with metal housing and had them tighten to 18N.

Thanks all.
 

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I'd suggest a longer breaker bar (2 ft should work) or cheat pipe and getting a 27mm / 1-1/16" socket for the hex on top of the filter wrench. Also make sure that the metal clips that are supposed to keep the filter housing from turning are bent back. I had to do the same thing after the one time I took mine in to the dealer for an oil change. Pretty sure I pushed my foot against the passenger side tire to try to break the housing free too...
Why would you want to bend the metal clips?
I can't see the clips being able to resist wrench force.

And aren't the clips there for a reason?
 

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Leftie loosie righty tighty
Counter clockwise takes it off. Find many make a mistake because they are on their back under the car.

Impact will take it off .. Use breaker bar on proper cartridge wrench and hit the breaker bar with a hammer.

You can only go so far with a cartridge. It is not overtightened. Cartridge stops when it runs out of thread. It won't tighten any further.
O-ring expands from absorbing oil. O-ring causes the removal issue.
I feel near-certain that the O-ring is NOT what is resisting wrench force in cases where the housing is stuck.
If that were the case, then there would be slight flex movement before the housing cracked loose, and which I do not observe here.
And once the housing has cracked loose, it is apparent that the O-ring has not expanded wildly enough to resist a lot of leverage.
Very hard to imagine that the O-ring could grip against both the plastic housing and the metal engine block with anywhere near that much force!

I would advise never using impact on plastic threaded parts. The plastic does not respond well strength-wise to such sudden application of force, so is more prone to brittle fracture.
Plastic needs a bit of time for it's flexible chain molecules to reach even stress levels in response to force, otherwise the more-stressed chains fracture long before peak strength levels are realized. Heat allows these same chain molecules to more readily reach a more even level of tension, even as it allows the plastic to distort more in response to stress. But distortion also allows the suface bonds holding the filter stuck to break free in sequential fashion, reducing the peak force required!

More leverage, using a twist-and-hold application of force is what I would try to achieve when removing one of these plastic housings that is stuck tight.

Having the engine block hot might also help with reducing the torque needed. In terms of thermal expansion this might or might not make sense. However heat does tend to weaken surface-to-surface bonding when mating parts are made of identical materials (and where thermal expansion clearly isn't what is doing the trick).

It does sound like a possible nightmare trying to remove a broken-but-still-stuck filter housing from the engine!
 

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Why would you want to bend the metal clips?
I can't see the clips being able to resist wrench force.

And aren't the clips there for a reason?
My bad; clip (singular). I don't think it's meant to resist wrench force. Just one more thing to make sure that it's out of the way so you don't break it.

Or break it if you want. It's only $1.11 on toyotapartsdeal.com.

My understanding is it's there to keep the filter housing cap from spinning loose if one were to, heaven forbid, gently twist it back on without it being snug/torquing it to spec.

I was under mine this weekend to change the oil and that metal clip's been bent back out of the way since I've owned it. I just never bothered to bend it back to its default state.
 

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I would think that the clip gives us one more reason why these filter housings do not need much tightening torque to stay leak-free.
I sort of remember a clicking noise while removing the housing, can't say for sure if I even looked at the clip though.
 
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