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Discussion Starter #1
i have two pioneer TS304F rated at 600W MAX and 300W Nominal

Is this 300W nominal figure the RMS figure? or just the optimal wattage based upon the same unreliable basis as MAX power ratings.

Ive read on some sites they are 300W RMS, which seems a touch high to me, and on others they are more like 150WRMS which seems more reasonable

Pending the actual RMS ratings, would you reccomend Alpine MRP-350 Monoblock Class D (therefore 175WMRS into each at 2 ohms in poarallel) or:

JBL GTO 601.monoblock class d again which would give around 290 WRMS each at 2 ohms)

The alpine is around 400 AUS and the JBL around 500 AUS

thank you
 

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300 rms most likely is the nominal. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but the rms is the minimal amount of continous power needed to power a speaker or sub in ur case. Sounds you got a pretty sub there.
 

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I said minimum continous power handling needed. Maybe I should have said recommended. I didn't say minimum power needed. Continous is the key word here.
 

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n3rd
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Uhm, there's no bloody difference unless you put recommended in there

rms is the minimal amount of continueous power needed to power a speaker or sub in ur case
continueous doesn't matter. When there's silence on a CD, the speaker's not getting any power :rolleyes: So all speakers can handle 0Ws. So minimum power, without continuous, is always 0. With continuous, it still varies- WELL below the "RMS" point. It is NOT the
minimal amount of continuous power needed to power a speaker or sub
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so you think the subs should get 300WMRS

so then i should go with the latter JBL Amp? You guys sure the 300W Nominal is RMS?
 

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thats why i said I should have said recommended. Because the rms is a suggested figure to get optimum play out of a speaker without causing damage. Axl Rose pretty sure the nominal 300 is the rms but the peak is 600. 99% sure it couldn't be much less.
 

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300 is what is recommended by the manufacturer so yes that is the RMS rating
 
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