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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #1
Camry LE 1997 180k, did oil change less than 2k miles ago (start of summer)
Also replaced oil pump at 178k in spring.

Had the dreaded Flickering oil light less 1/4 of a mile from home at a stop light, so I drove slowly. Only seemed to appear at a stop. Have read/watched a lot. So here is what I have done so far,
Oil Level is good
Oil color is golden clean
Oil filter is clean
Pulled out PCV valve to verify if any oils there are cloggy, it's clean.
Oil pressure switch wire is clean
Oil pressure itself is clean,

Question 1
but this I don't know how to tell if it's aok or not? It's cheap enough to pop a new Duralast Oil Pressure Switch here (unless you guys don't think this is a good quality?)
I will also grab a test kit from HFT.
If non of this checks out I will drop the samp.

Question 2
Anything else you would be checking before samp drop?





 

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1994 Camry V6 XLE-J
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not familiar with the dreaded flashing oil light but assuming it's because of oil starvation and that you're using the same weight/type oil recommended for your engine and further that that you used a decent filter (and didn't leave the old rubber gasket on), i'd drop the pan and see if everything's good down there and then pull the valve cover and see what that looks like.
tony
 

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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #3
not familiar with the dreaded flashing oil light but assuming it's because of oil starvation and that you're using the same weight/type oil recommended for your engine and further that that you used a decent filter (and didn't leave the old rubber gasket on), i'd drop the pan and see if everything's good down there and then pull the valve cover and see what that looks like.
tony
Should I not check oil pressure at this point first before dropping pan?
 

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1994 Camry V6 XLE-J
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yes, if you haven't confirmed the pressure switch is good, then replace that first for sure.
tony
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Should I not check oil pressure at this point first before dropping pan?
Yes, I would advise before pan. You should use a manual tester to verify pressure. New pressure sender is cheap try also. Are you sure there are no problems with loose wire connection?

I'm assuming the light flicker stops when revs get up?
 

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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yes, I would advise before pan. You should use a manual tester to verify pressure. New pressure sender is cheap try also. Are you sure there are no problems with loose wire connection?
Wire feels firm but how to establish if it is ok or not? In light of info below (low oil pressure) this does negate the issue being the wire, correct?

I'm assuming the light flicker stops when revs get up?
Yes.

Changed pressure switch, after about 5 minutes of idling oil light started flickering.
Hooked up pressure kit, pics below are at idle 700 RPM, pic 2 at 3000 RPM
What do you guys make of this?


 

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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #7
not familiar with the dreaded flashing oil light but assuming it's because of oil starvation and that you're using the same weight/type oil recommended for your engine and further that that you used a decent filter (and didn't leave the old rubber gasket on), i'd drop the pan and see if everything's good down there and then pull the valve cover and see what that looks like.
tony
No oil starvation, on top and below this car.
Oil Wally Supertech 5/30 Full Synthetic
STP S4967 with new rubber
Can anyone chime in on STP quality?
 

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イリジウム
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+1 on testing with pressure gauge. Looks like a true low oil pressure problem and not a sender/wire problem. Typical places to look would be excessive bearing clearances, oil pump bypass valve stuck open, balancer assembly bleeding oil pressure.

See if there's metal debris in the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
+1 on testing with pressure gauge. Looks like a true low oil pressure problem and not a sender/wire problem. Typical places to look would be excessive bearing clearances, oil pump bypass valve stuck open, balancer assembly bleeding oil pressure.

See if there's metal debris in the oil pan.
BTW the needle wasn't twitching (Eric car guys talks about that)

What causes excessive bearing clearances? How do I check for excessive bearing clearances?
"....excessive bearing clearances, oil pump bypass valve stuck open, balancer assembly bleeding oil pressure"

This is a new territory, any pointers on further info, step by step, would be welcome. Thanx in advance.
 

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- oil pressure at 3k rpms is good/spot-on at 30psi
- did this problems start before or after your replaced the oil-pump?
- whats the oil pressure at say 1,000 rpm? 10psi?

- make sure your 'new' oil pump had a relief valve in it!

- low pressure at idle, but normal at revs typically means something at the source is open or clogged:

- ie, relief valve open/missing, oil pickup screen clogged/dirty..



:)
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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Oil pressure is a measure of resistance to flow - unless the oil pump intake is restricting flow. Even your 3k rpm pressure is low compared to mine. So what's happening when the oil gets warm is it thins and offers less restriction. Pressure does not separate bearings, oil shear does, but you need enough flow with a pressure differential to keep oil flowing between friction surfaces. The oil pump relief valve is a spring valve that prevents over pressure, if it's stuck open (broken spring) the flow will bypass the engine.

You could do an oil analysis to see if undue bearing wear is not restricting flow enough to raise pressure, but that would not be a sudden occurrence. The metal content will tell you something. Test about $30 at Blackstone Labs.

I'd replace the filter and see what happens - if you haven't done that already.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
- oil pressure at 3k rpms is good/spot-on at 30psi
- did this problems start before or after your replaced the oil-pump?
Started last week Thursday, been parked since.

- whats the oil pressure at say 1,000 rpm? 10psi?
See pics below. I just started it for 2-3 minutes. First pic at idle 900, 1000 and 3000. These numbers seem different than the previous I posted, then it was idling for 6-7 minutes. Does this change your assessment?

- make sure your 'new' oil pump had a relief valve in it!
- low pressure at idle, but normal at revs typically means something at the source is open or clogged:
- ie, relief valve open/missing, oil pickup screen clogged/dirty..
:)
Not sure how to make sure?
Are relief valves known to fall into the oil pan?



 

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Started last week Thursday, been parked since.



See pics below. I just started it for 2-3 minutes. First pic at idle 900, 1000 and 3000. These numbers seem different than the previous I posted, then it was idling for 6-7 minutes. Does this change your assessment?


Not sure how to make sure?
Are relief valves known to fall into the oil pan?





ahh I see the pics now...

ya, not normal... generally you want to see ~10 psi for ever 1,000rpms.. more for cold oil/weather..

- is the filter good and clean (you ARE using an OEM Toyota filter right>:D?)
- otherwise time to drop the pan and inspect the screen
- rip off the oil pump and check the relief valve
- other than that can't think of anything else to check that's 'easy'.
- low oil pressure is deal breaker, so unfortunately you gotta get in there to save her....
- nice wood-grain dash BTW :)


:)
 

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You might have some oil boogers in your pan fouling the oil uptake tube screen.

SUCKS the big one the first time, but yeah, drop that oil pan.

First time sucks cuz the factory oil pan "gasket" isn't really that at all --it's some kind of bionic foam/glue stuff requiring a jackhammer and plastic explosives.

Nah, it's just HARD. I finally got a tiny part free with a freaking BUCK KNIFE, then pried with more normal tools from there.

After you've scraped off that glue and installed a normal AZ gasket, if u need to take it off again it'll go lickety-split.
 

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Thingz I seen:

- teflon tape from oil drain plugs plugging up the pickup screen
- RTV/sealant/silocone chunks plugging up the pickup screen

it happens..

- restriction before the pump (ie clogged screen) = low pressure
- restriction after the pump (ie clogged oil filter) = high pressure
- wear after the pump (ie engine wear) = low pressure




:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
...
- restriction before the pump (ie clogged screen) = low pressure
- restriction after the pump (ie clogged oil filter) = high pressure
- wear after the pump (ie engine wear) = low pressure




:)
You might have some oil boogers in your pan fouling the oil uptake tube screen.

SUCKS the big one the first time, but yeah, drop that oil pan.

First time sucks cuz the factory oil pan "gasket" isn't really that at all --it's some kind of bionic foam/glue stuff requiring a jackhammer and plastic explosives.

Nah, it's just HARD. I finally got a tiny part free with a freaking BUCK KNIFE, then pried with more normal tools from there.

After you've scraped off that glue and installed a normal AZ gasket, if u need to take it off again it'll go lickety-split.
ahh I see the pics now...

ya, not normal... generally you want to see ~10 psi for ever 1,000rpms.. more for cold oil/weather..

- is the filter good and clean (you ARE using an OEM Toyota filter right>:D?)
- otherwise time to drop the pan and inspect the screen
- rip off the oil pump and check the relief valve
- other than that can't think of anything else to check that's 'easy'.
- low oil pressure is deal breaker, so unfortunately you gotta get in there to save her....
- nice wood-grain dash BTW :)


:)
During the last test I put in a new filter-an STP I had here.
Dropped the pan, it's clean, no metal shavings, no boogers, uptake tube screen looks clean.
I didn't have enough time to get the pump out,
The pan was a pita-I had put silicone on it last spring or so.
Next I will get the pump out. In preparation for that where do I find the plunger? In what position should it be in when it's aok?

Pushed the pins I could get to (1&4) and didn't feel any movement to suggest bearing are worn out. Is this a good enough check? Is lack of metal shavings inside pan a good indicator that there's no wear on bearings?

 

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イリジウム
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Make sure the oil pickup tube o-ring is properly sealed (not sucking air). No metal debris at least is a good sign. Might be a bad pump? I'd recommend only a reman Aisin from Rockauto. $72, looks like new, no core charge?

The relief valve is covered by a larger sized hex plug at the bottom of the pump (towards the radiator side?). It has a plunger and spring inside.

FYI: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/412213-5sfe-low-oil-pressure-2.html#post3864973
 
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