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That's impressive! :thumbsup: But now you got me curious - regular... as in dino oil, 10k miles...how? I thought by 7k that's water thin, back to black original color, yada yada yada...no?

Back in the 1980's anything Japanese, from Honda motorcycles to compact cars had 7.5k to 10k oil change intervals on REGULAR oil... 10k on a Toyota filter is what I do.. 7.5k factor interval is VERY conservative.. 10k is fine... even mah 2006 Mazda5 calls for 7.5k oil intervals on REGUALR oil.. again I do 10k on that too.. the key is to use a GOOD (factory) filter.. not some $2 STP/walmart filter..


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I wouldn't run conventional oil to 10k, especially not in a gen4. Vs. the gen3, gen4 head runs hotter for emissions purposes and is more prone to sludging. If you're going to reseal for oil (except the RMS), take this opportunity to start running full synthetic. I mean, the Supertech (Walmart store brand) full synthetic is $17 for a 5-quart jug.

I think any quality/highly-regarded filter will do you good (check the sticky). I primarily use Wix and Denso (buy them in 12-packs from RockAuto when I'm placing other parts orders). I believe the Denso is literally the OEM filter, just without the Toyota printing on it. Nice-feeling and -looking filter, too: heavy, has the "torque stopper" thing where you can't overtighten it, and painted matte black.
Pretty much every car from the 80's until 2017 that uses regular oil has 7.5k intervals... that's conservative, so I go to 10k without problems.. but that's me I know theres billions who change at 3k.. whatever... yes Denso is OEM for filters... good filter, regular oil, and the oil will be barley dark brown at 10k... cheap filter and the oil is nearly black by 3k.... mah 50 centz naturally...

the whole oil thing is overrated/mythology.. overseas 10k is normal for regular oil...




:)
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Back in the 1980's anything Japanese, from Honda motorcycles to compact cars had 7.5k to 10k oil change intervals on REGULAR oil... 10k on a Toyota filter is what I do.. 7.5k factor interval is VERY conservative.. 10k is fine... even mah 2006 Mazda5 calls for 7.5k oil intervals on REGUALR oil.. again I do 10k on that too.. the key is to use a GOOD (factory) filter.. not some $2 STP/walmart filter..


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What I love for me about TN is class is always in session, and always learning something new. :thanks:
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Yeah not heard of that on these Toyos, thus my curiosity. I use wally synthetic, ez price, ez choice.

While working around oil pump, anything else likely needed in this area that I should consider to go ahead order?
John's seal kit pretty much covers it. Just remember that the oil pump shaft seal should be flush with the outside of the housing, not pushed all the way in - there's a little hole that you'll block if you push it all the way in. In fact you shouldn't even need to do that, because if the Aisin pump comes with the pulley, there'll already be a shaft seal installed.

Oh yeah, about the pump housing-to-block gasket. The Fel-Pro kit indeed comes with a paper gasket, and I do the same as John, smear it with a thin coat of black RTV. However, the OEM gasket and the aftermarket Mahle gasket are metal crush gaskets. Same advice applies, if the surfaces are very clean and flat, the metal gasket will be a more...elegant solution.
 

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Wally syn oil should be fine. So are major brands like Castrol Titanium, Penn Platinum. I'm moving away from Mobil 1 for a while to Castrol Titanium. Penn Plat also ran very well with the gas-to-liquid oils. You can probably use Supertech filters too, as long as they don't use the plastic el cheapo center tube made by Champion Labs and used in many GM filters. :thumbdown: Also consider Bosch Premium on rockauto too among the choices.

Does your oil filter drain empty after stopping for a while? What pump do you have in there now?


Yeah not heard of that on these Toyos, thus my curiosity. I use wally synthetic, ez price, ez choice.

While working around oil pump, anything else likely needed in this area that I should consider to go ahead order?
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
What pump do you have in there now?
Is there a TN confessional booth around here? A cheapy from the orient. No one else but I did this to my car and it's come back to bite me barely 5,6 mos later. Not worth it. I learned better bite the whole bullet, get quality stuff. So Aisin and Denso it is, arriving Sunday.

Does your oil filter drain empty after stopping for a while?
Mhhh....I wondered about that. Since I had just turned off engine I was expecting oil to spill out while removing the filter. Peeped inside it was dry but after placing it face up oil accumulated at the bottom just less of a third, I guestimate. Is this a normal quantity? Was it supposed to spill oil while removing it, having just turned off the car after 5-7 min running engine pressure test?

Talking about Bosch products, are their water pumps of great quality?

Have seen some WP listed with and without housing. Last time when I pulled mine out it resembled those without a housing. Sorry about this question but where is the housing? Is it better to buy one with a housing?
 

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Is there a TN confessional booth around here? A cheapy from the orient. No one else but I did this to my car and it's come back to bite me barely 5,6 mos later. Not worth it. I learned better bite the whole bullet, get quality stuff. So Aisin and Denso it is, arriving Sunday.


Mhhh....I wondered about that. Since I had just turned off engine I was expecting oil to spill out while removing the filter. Peeped inside it was dry but after placing it face up oil accumulated at the bottom just less of a third, I guestimate. Is this a normal quantity? Was it supposed to spill oil while removing it, having just turned off the car after 5-7 min running engine pressure test?

Talking about Bosch products, are their water pumps of great quality?

Have seen some WP listed with and without housing. Last time when I pulled mine out it resembled those without a housing. Sorry about this question but where is the housing? Is it better to buy one with a housing?
Go with an Aisin water pump with housing - it's usually within a couple dollars of without, and saves you some annoyance. Best practice is to buy it as part of the Aisin timing belt kit, if you're up for a timing belt change. You'll have to pull the TB to do the WP anyway.
 

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You have a TOYOTA. ALWAYS use OEM Toyota parts when you can. It's ALWAYS worth it.

Gawl, who remembers when saying 'Toyota' was like saying 'classic Mercedes'...?

You have golden-era Toyota, treat it only to the BEST and you'll get 1-million miles out of her (like them old Mercs)

Amazon/ebay is great for OEM filters and Aisin parts..

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
You have a TOYOTA. ALWAYS use OEM Toyota parts when you can. It's ALWAYS worth it.
:)
Man have I learned my lesson.
Took oil pan out I should have mentioned the bolts were loose. I think another 1k...5k miles and some would have fallen off. At the end near tranny the silicone beads never flattened. So the oil pan never mated with the block, meaning there very well might have been an air inlet. The beads on the rest of the pan flattened ok, just that the bolts seemed to have started coming loose. Could air entry into the oil pan cause low oil pressure? Since I will button her up tomorrow what is the torque recommendation for oil pan bolts?
 

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Could air entry into the oil pan cause low oil pressure?
No. There is always "air" in the oil pan since it is never 100% full. Air will cause problems when the oil level falls below the pickup tube.

Did you install the pan with new sealant the last time?

Pan bolts = 48 INCH LBs

Permatex makes an RTV for higher torque areas. Maybe visit their web site for advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
No. There is always "air" in the oil pan since it is never 100% full. Air will cause problems when the oil level falls below the pickup tube.

Did you install the pan with new sealant the last time?

Pan bolts = 48 INCH LBs

Permatex makes an RTV for higher torque areas. Maybe visit their web site for advice.
Yes a tube new of sealant. This time I let it set overnight, and bolts are tightened to spec.

I started up the car and gauge is....weird. I will update a video shortly....
1-The gauge is doing short fast flickers.
2-At 1000 rpm the reading is at 70 - this is right after starting-photo 1. I let it run for a minute or two, photo 2.
The car sounds ok, like any other car after a cold start but the reading is ... it normal?

 

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Yes a tube new of sealant. This time I let it set overnight, and bolts are tightened to spec.

I started up the car and gauge is....weird. I will update a video shortly....
1-The gauge is doing short fast flickers.
2-At 1000 rpm the reading is at 70 - this is right after starting-photo 1. I let it run for a minute or two, photo 2.
The car sounds ok, like any other car after a cold start but the reading is ... it normal?




This is NORMAL, yes... dunno about your 'fast fickers' tho...

but yep that pressure is normal for idle.. rev it up and see if its ~10 pounds for every 1,000 rpms give or take...



:x
 

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60+ cold start PSI is normal and is useless measurement.
You should have 40+ psi hot engine psi at 3k rpm... Idle psi hot > 5 psi with no lights flickering ever.

Skip the STP filter. Don't care for the Toyota one either. I usually used the 3614 or 3600 sized filters on my ol' Camries, Celica, Mr2. Great engine and cars from back then.. Stick with blend or full synthetic filtering media.

Filter should stay full after shutdown. If it doesn't, pick a different brand or step up to premium version of your preferred brand....like the STP XL.

Bosch waterpumps are usually relabelled chicom junk, like the oil pump you failed. NPW is another made in Japan option if you don't want the Toyota/Denso one.

Worn out balance shafts can dump oil PSI. Engine doesn't need it and you will see 8-15 extra PSI once it's gone and it's oil feed is blocked. Hopefully your new oil pump works out fine.

I wouldn't have any problem using a melling oil pump. Problem is, once you have an aftermarket parts failure, you should get OE.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
UPDATE
Installed new Aisin oil pump. I didn't remove the water pump since it's new ...barely +/- 2k miles.
Did the oil pressure test after engine warmed up, pics below, then replaced tester kit with the new pressure sender and no oil light came up. The car is still on jacks, so I engaged forward and reverse and simulated driving, accelerate and slow down, still no light. I am taking it down for a roady shortly.

Here are the tests, at idle, 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM
The tester kit gauge needle is stable at idle, start to flicker as RPMs start to go higher.
1-Any cause for alarm on this?
2-Can you guys let me know what you think of these readings?






And here is a 1 minute video
 

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start to flicker as RPMs start to go higher.
1-Any cause for alarm on this?
Are you referring to the very slight needle fluctuation? All pumps have some pressure frequency or pulsation which will show up in a non dampened gauge. Nothing to worry about - all looks well.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Are you referring to the very slight needle fluctuation? All pumps have some pressure frequency or pulsation which will show up in a non dampened gauge. Nothing to worry about - all looks well.
Makes sense - it's stable, just pulsation.

Short roady with the gauge, didn't observe anything unusual as far as oil pressure, short vid is below. But there's oil that's dripped on the exhaust. So of course there's smell of burning oil and oil fumes when I popped the hood.

Observation 1 - Pic 1
Oil on exhaust pipe see markings A and B. On A there's actually dripping oil, to the ground. On B as well, right by that bolt closest to B.

Observation 2 - Pic 2
On oil pan there's oil wetness, area next to tranny, like those bolts aren't torqued, they are, 48 INCH LBs. I will over them again.

I am thinking of removing that plate that's between tranny and oil pan, see if there's any source of leaks there. Any other ideas/suggestions?





Video Coming Shortly....
 

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UPDATE
Installed new Aisin oil pump. I didn't remove the water pump since it's new ...barely +/- 2k miles.
Did the oil pressure test after engine warmed up, pics below, then replaced tester kit with the new pressure sender and no oil light came up. The car is still on jacks, so I engaged forward and reverse and simulated driving, accelerate and slow down, still no light. I am taking it down for a roady shortly.

Here are the tests, at idle, 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM
The tester kit gauge needle is stable at idle, start to flicker as RPMs start to go higher.
1-Any cause for alarm on this?
2-Can you guys let me know what you think of these readings?






And here is a 1 minute video
https://youtu.be/jCcsKvW5bJY





the pressures seem too high to me, UNLESS it is COLD outside... was it cold when you took those readings (ambient temp?) Once warm, everything should be ballpark 10psi for every 1k of rpms...



:)
 

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Discussion Starter #58
the pressures seem too high to me, UNLESS it is COLD outside... was it cold when you took those readings (ambient temp?) Once warm, everything should be ballpark 10psi for every 1k of rpms...

:)
You say the pressures are too high? Temps today are 70, so not cold. Just did another one results are pretty much the same, it's 73 right now. In both cases I let the car warm. So at 3k RPM

If it's idling at 16 psi, about .75 rpm, is this a normal range?
At 1000 rpm seems to jump by 10psi to 27psi
At 2000 rpm seems to jump by 30 psi to 56 psi
At 3000 rpm seems to jump by 10 psi to 66 psi

What do you make of this? Where is the problem?

Here is the video while driving around





Pan bolts = 48 INCH LBs

Permatex makes an RTV for higher torque areas. Maybe visit their web site for advice.
OIL LEAK & TORQUING
Oil pan bolts at 38 and 1 bolt broke off even before 38 INCH LBs.:sosad: So I just tightened the rest best I could without another damage.

I don't know if the problem is a thin silicone sealant compared to a pan gasket. But I made sure to put thick silicone layer, to match a gasket before flattening and allowing over night to set. The end near the transmission I added some more and left them beaded (did not flatten) just before re-installing pan. Removed that crank panel, let car idle for 30 minutes. The area seems dry, but 48 inch lbs torquing seems to be an issue-broken bolts.
 

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If it's idling at 16 psi, about .75 rpm, is this a normal range?
At 1000 rpm seems to jump by 10psi to 27psi
At 2000 rpm seems to jump by 30 psi to 56 psi
At 3000 rpm seems to jump by 10 psi to 66 psi

What do you make of this?
What weight oil are you using? Not sure you have a problem unless the high pressure forces oil through seals that will leak. I can't think of any that need to hold pressure?? I assume you have new pressure relief valve with new oil pump? Did you drive the car to heat engine AND oil to max temp?
 

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The gerator type oil pump will show more fluctuations than crescent type pump. I think those oil pressures look alright. Looks like you should have gone with an Aisin pump all along!! ;) ;) ;) What brand was the old junk? Rebuilt?

The cold oil pressure was high because the oil was cold and thick. Oil pressure should be measured when the engine is at operating temp. So the latter ones look more in line. I actually think they look fine. While Toyota only specs like above 4.3 psi at idle, which is pretty useless, other members found other numbers, such as 3000 rpms 36-71 psi which is a wide range:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/371927-interesting-oil-pressure-info.html

As far as the leak goes, try wiping things off with the cover removed and see if the leak comes back. It may be just old oil before you sealed everything up. With Permatex RTVs (Ultra Copper, Grey, Black, Water pump & Thermostat), I never had a leak on a variety of engines. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry so the RTV can stick. I wipe off the drips right before putting the pan on, but minor drips shoudln't matter.
 
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