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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #81
You need a new ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The ECU monitors that one (there are 3) to control fuel injection, enriching the mixture on cold starts. Its a thermistor; resistance changes with temperature. Aftermarket parts seem to work fine for this. Just be sure to get the right one. Lots of sites just list it as a "coolant temperature sensor". Be sure it has two wires. The 4 cyl has another two wire temperature sensor in the radiator to control the fans. But that one is a simple on/off switch.
Thanx, found it here.

And a video too.

 

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1994 Camry V6 XLE-J
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bmr with your great explanation of thermistors, coupled with isb's practical application of ohm's law for current draw in a starter motor and camryfl's rundown of why non-applicable 'sympathetic' codes (e.g. crank/cam shaft sensor) occur in conjunction with a tb breakage - shows me i'm in the presence of giants here, haha. :)
tony


(apologies if my attributions are incorrect.)
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Man, those ECT sensors always rot and break. I keep a few of the Beck/Arnleys around because of the inevitability - they're made in Taiwan but have worked flawlessly so far.
 

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Pretty much every car from the 80's until 2017 that uses regular oil has 7.5k intervals... that's conservative, so I go to 10k without problems.. but that's me I know theres billions who change at 3k.. whatever... yes Denso is OEM for filters... good filter, regular oil, and the oil will be barley dark brown at 10k... cheap filter and the oil is nearly black by 3k.... mah 50 centz naturally...

the whole oil thing is overrated/mythology.. overseas 10k is normal for regular oil
I put your suggestion to test on one of my Camrys.

5w-30 Mobil1 Full Synthetic with FRAM XG4967. I meant to push 10k but panicked at 7.5k and did an oil and filter change.

Oil was black and thicker than anything I had seen before. It still flowed but thicker than anything I had seen before.

I have not sent it to Blackstone yet but will.

I will be changing my oil around 5k. It was too thick for my comfort.

5k For my family, this means two changes a year. I can handle that.

You can try remove the coil packs and look at the distributor plug behind it. I wonder if it's the plug.

Also, no UV glow above the pan anywhere?
No I hadn't traced any UV glow above the pan. Will get to all this, this weekend.
Ugh, I was hoping it was a mix of the valve cover and the distributor plug leaking.

I'm now interested in knowing what the source is.

Man, those ECT sensors always rot and break. I keep a few of the Beck/Arnleys around because of the inevitability - they're made in Taiwan but have worked flawlessly so far.
Oh! I didn't know that.

The stock ECT sensors on Gen4s are known to break? :surprise:

If that's so, I will stock up on two during my first RA order.
 

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97CamryLE 181k Sold
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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Ugh, I was hoping it was a mix of the valve cover and the distributor plug leaking.
I think you are right anyway. The distributor plug was wet and there was oil on tranny case. Gave it a good engine wash, a roady and still couldn't see the dye - may be after all these months there are no remnants of it?? Anyway the oil drip was in the middle like where the engine ends, a little to the right. the back of the engine was very hard to reach but it was covered in oil coming from the driver side of either the back of the valve cover gasket and/or distributor hole.

Replaced top cover gasket and re-sealed distributor hole. Next the brittle ECT broke. So all I could do was pull the car out to the driveway. In those few minutes I didn't see any leaks on the driveway as I normally would even after starting the engine for a few minutes. ECT is here but car won't crank, so can't pull it into the garage and it's been raining outside for me to plow. I will replace it this Sunday and update after a roady.

The other thing is I remember reading at AxelAddict that old babies have a tendency to leak synthetic oil. I did an oil change last week, with dino from synthetic and what do you know-the leak that was dropping and burning on the exhaust pipe is no longer there. This leak was as determined as ferocious Wolverine. One down, one to go.
 

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I will replace it this Sunday and update after a roady.
OK, keep us posted. I am interested

The other thing is I remember reading at AxelAddict that old babies have a tendency to leak synthetic oil. I did an oil change last week, with dino from synthetic and what do you know-the leak that was dropping and burning on the exhaust pipe is no longer there
I'm conflicted about this - yes, synthetic oil leaks more than dino, but I think it's because the seals have gone bad.

So it's not the oil but an indication that seals have gone bad and for some reason, dino masks that.

I dont like problems being masked. I want them to show up so I can fix them >:D

For example, one customer, who came in for timing belt change, had read somewhere that synthetic oil would cause leaks but dino won't. Infact he wanted to continue to put HIGH MILEAGE dino in his car even after my timing belt change.

I requested him to move to the cheapest SAE compliant synthetic but he would not listen to me.

I finally told him I would refund his money 100% if his car sprung a leak after my job was over and that's the only thing that made him get synthetic >:D

That was more than 6 months ago. He's happy and I now have a customer that argues less with me than before.

Man, those ECT sensors always rot and break. I keep a few of the Beck/Arnleys around because of the inevitability - they're made in Taiwan but have worked flawlessly so far.

@insightbrewery, is this the part you recommended keeping a spare: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=482090&cc=1767&jsn=253 (from http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,camry,2.2l+l4,1767,cooling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748)
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
I'm conflicted about this - yes, synthetic oil leaks more than dino, but I think it's because the seals have gone bad.

So it's not the oil but an indication that seals have gone bad and for some reason, dino masks that.

I dont like problems being masked. I want them to show up so I can fix them >:D


@insightbrewery , is this the part you recommended keeping a spare: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=482090&cc=1767&jsn=253 (from http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,camry,2.2l+l4,1767,cooling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748)
I totally agree with you. I would rather be running synthetic because if it leaks through where dino doesn't that must mean it must be that much more finer as to easily get through to lubricate important parts and obviously to do a better job than dino. This might be this summer's Camry project, if it's still around. Planning on selling a bunch of this this summer, so everything around here see's me coming and hides the cat, the camry....:surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I am still in the woods. There's a slight leak that is dropping on the braided exhaust part, burning and dispelling oil fumes. Was worse before this service. The drip is the fore one in the second pic, second drip I think is water from the neighborhood. I am not sure where else now. May I have a couple of suggestions to check out?

BTW the ECT worked like a charm!


 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Been trying to post this but all I get is HTTP error 500. So I will revive this old thread.

1997 Camry LE 181k miles

Hey guys I am stumped at this one. The car is losing a lot of engine oil. When I stop it makes a big oil puddle on the passenger side, directly below the power steering pump. I thought the leak was coming from the oil pump (slightly over a year old replaced.) But all that area is dry. I looked at the valve cover, going down the cylinder head, below it and section below on the passenger side, and it's dry. Then oil wetness appears on the PSP itself. But it is not PSP Fluid but eng. oil. PSP fluid level is aok and never has an low level issue.

I have already removed the belt that goes around the starter, the engine mount and was gonna remove the TB cover. I stopped when I saw that was dry.

Pic's (coming later) and a short <30 sec vid below.

Where is the leak coming from? Where do I look?

.
https://i.ibb.co/88SST6F/20190416-200526.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/2tpX7qk/20190416-200534.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sgFCNbJ/20190416-200659.jpg

 

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Valve cover gasket? Check to see if intake is oily, if so, suspect VC gasket. Otherwise, distributor hole plug maybe
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I didn't see any signs on the VC but I will check it again tonight if it won't be raining; and definitely not the distributor hole plug. That area is bone dry.

PSP was covered in engine oil, yet there are no leaks above it, nor is the TB cover oil-wet, it's bone dry too. I am bewildered.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Posting this from a small screen so near with me.

Did some more checking .... there is no leakage around valve cover gasket. Intake is dry. The distributor hole is dry as are the half moons.

Camshaft seal is dry but the plate behind the sprocket is oily. That is top most location I found oil wetness. Photo 3.

And you can see the oil leak from below on photo 4.

Oil pump seems bone dry so far. Photo 2.

I am gonna have to tear this apart so I can look at behind that plate but in the meantime what do you guys think looking at these pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
I removed camshaft sprocket. Last time I changed oil pump etc, I skipped changing camshaft seal (yeah lesson learned the hard way.) It shows it's age.

It has what looks like to me a slight leak compared to the amount of oil that's all over the PS pump and that drops on the floor creating a large puddle.

Both rear corners of the top cover have wetness on around the corners on the surface where the seal seats. Only the left seems to have a slight drip on the cylinder head side.

There's slight oil wetness behind the black camshaft sprocket plate.

Compared to the leakage that occurs when the car stops I was expecting to find much more obvious, clear evidence of leakage.

Question is do you guys think these slight leakages are responsible for the car losing so much oil?
I am afraid that when I patch her up the ugly of ugly leak is still gonna show up after all this work.
What is the torque value for the camshaft sprocket bolt?
What is the torque value for the large plug holes nuts that hold the top cover? I found them too easy to turn lefty.




 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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"Hey guys any comments please?

I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?"


Which bolt hole wells? ... If valve cover, then no - the VC gasket is supposed to contain the oil inside.


Edit: just saw the pic - if Camshaft Cap bolts - providing there is no gasket between the bolt wells -> the interior cam assembly, then sure - it's possible for oil to reach that point.



* But I haven't had to replace the camshaft seal yet, either. Hopefully better informed TN folks will jump in w/ better reply.
 

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Hey guys any comments please?

I removed these two bolts, found them covered in oil? If I wipe and dip them back in they are coming out covered in oil. Should there be oil in the bolt wells?
Torque on the camshaft sprocket is 40 ft-lbs, make sure whatever you're counterholding with doesn't move when you do that.

The valve cover nuts are 33 ft-lbs (updated torque value), do it this way:

1. Snug them all down as far as you can with the 30mm socket in your hand
2. Go 3-2-4-1, inside to outside on each pass. First pass, to 17 ft-lbs. Second pass, to 25. Final pass, to 33

If you were resealing the spark plug tubes while you have it open, clean them up, put FIPG on the lower threads, and torque them (with the VC nuts) to 36 ft-lbs. I've got all this laid out in my engine/trans swap DIY, feel free to check it out if you need a reference.

I've had little luck with dye. In my experience, it spreads and becomes hard to figure out by the time you can get a good look at it, and when you can get a good look at it before it does this, you could have seen the leak without it. What I do for leaks is follow the oil to the highest point on the engine. Sometimes, something lower is leaking worse, so you end up sealing what you find from top to bottom.

Cam cap bolts should have oil on the threads: official instructions are to oil under the bolt head and the washer before installation. The end bearing cap that holds the camshaft oil seal is sealed with FIPG (unless you have an FSM, check my DIY for the details). Cam cap bolt torque is 14 ft-lbs, there's a sequence and it should be done in several steps, like the valve cover nuts.
 

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If it's oil, that much oil always seems to come from the oil-pump o-ring... our last timing-belt job involved replacing an oil-pump o-ring that was leaking a quarter every 50 miles. There's was a trail of oil down the bottom of the car on the right side, over the muffler, then up the bumper and up the trunk. The o-ring came out in dried chunks.

If it's p/s fluid, we'd just replace the pump and high pressure hose.

When you definitively figure out the source, let us know...!
 
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