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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
...So you should focus on making sure the crankshaft pulley lines up with the correct mark, then move up and check the camshaft. If the camshaft is half a tooth off, you're good....
This worked out exactly as you have described. Thank you for the explanation.

If you're worried about your oil pump housing being cracked, replace the oil pump with a new Aisin. If your car is OBDII, get one that has the cutout for the crank sensor (pump without cutout is for '95 and before).

Where the oil pump housing meets the block, there's a metal crush gasket...

All oil pump bolts are M6 torqued to 78 in-lbs. Note that the two bottom-most bolts are longer, and the two that hold the pump body to the housing are differently-colored.
Current OP is new and not cracked. When I first replaced leaking seals etc I cracked the old Asin OP while tightening it. From that experience I tightened this new one with trepidation as you can imagine. So I din't torque it to required spec., thus, the current leaks. I will torque properly, now awaiting the embossed Mahle gasket.

Question. Is the bottom most bolt the longest and the second long one being the one above it to the left or the next one to it's right?
Somewhere in this mix up I suspect is how the previous OP cracked, from the left to the center (second bolt clockwise, after the bottom most bolt)
 

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This worked out exactly as you have described. Thank you for the explanation.



Current OP is new and not cracked. When I first replaced leaking seals etc I cracked the old Asin OP while tightening it. From that experience I tightened this new one with trepidation as you can imagine. So I din't torque it to required spec., thus, the current leaks. I will torque properly, now awaiting the embossed Mahle gasket.

Question. Is the bottom most bolt the longest and the second long one being the one above it to the left or the next one to it's right?
Somewhere in this mix up I suspect is how the previous OP cracked, from the left to the center (second bolt clockwise, after the bottom most bolt)
Check my DIY, it's allllll in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Mahle metal embossed gasket came in, will replace cheapy FelPro on Monday. Question is-is there a simpler way,trick,method...of removing OP? Or I have to deal with the whole enchilada-
1, unbolt exhaust pipe from MF, drop it just enough, so
2, oil pan can drop
3, remove OP?
 

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Mahle metal embossed gasket came in, will replace cheapy FelPro on Monday. Question is-is there a simpler way,trick,method...of removing OP? Or I have to deal with the whole enchilada-
1, unbolt exhaust pipe from MF, drop it just enough, so
2, oil pan can drop
3, remove OP?
Pretty much. Since the oil pan is sealed with RTV you can't take off the oil pump without invalidating that seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Pretty much. Since the oil pan is sealed with RTV you can't take off the oil pump without invalidating that seal.
I found TB guide on (crank shaft) bent as seen below-pic 1+2. I had it right after the the plastic cover. Unless I am confused here isn't this where it goes?




 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Hey guys I really hate to ask this but all of last week I had insightbrewery's guide on DIY Oil Pump change. For the life of me I can't trace it in history, I hadn't bookmarked and I can't trace it in his posts. Does anyone know where the link is? Basically I want to make sure I have the right position for each bolt (this is how I ended up cracking the previous Oil Pump, I don't a repeat).

EDIT:

I have a quick question here. Placed the embossed gasket on the oil pump. The top right part of the pump does not need a gasket? Or should I put FIPG?

I found the leak was bottom right.



 

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Hey guys I really hate to ask this but all of last week I had insightbrewery's guide on DIY Oil Pump change. For the life of me I can't trace it in history, I hadn't bookmarked and I can't trace it in his posts. Does anyone know where the link is? Basically I want to make sure I have the right position for each bolt (this is how I ended up cracking the previous Oil Pump, I don't a repeat).

EDIT:

I have a quick question here. Placed the embossed gasket on the oil pump. The top right part of the pump does not need a gasket? Or should I put FIPG?

I found the leak was bottom right.



https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1638866-diy-gen4-5s-fe-a140e-engine-trans-removal-swap-external-sealing-refresh.html


Yes, replace that timing belt guide cup washer. You have it in the right place, concave side should face outward like that. I'd take some time to figure out why it's screwed up like that, the cupping is so that the lower timing cover pushes on it to hold the timing belt from walking off the sprocket.

Yup, the top part you're talking about is not exposed to the crankcase, doesn't need sealing. Just use the embossed metal gasket, and make sure both oil pump body and block mating surface are super clean. Torque all bolts inside-to-out to 78 in-lbs and you'll be good to go.
 

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Well another mishap-broken bottom left long bolt. Enough pissed off can make a preacher man curse! And torque is barely at 5in-lb. Oil pump is my Achilles heel.
Sounds like you need a better torque wrench. The Tekton 1/4" dual-direction is good IME, and the Taiwan-made Harbor Freights come highly recommended around here.

Or if you want to drop $250 and never worry again, buy an SK.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Sounds like you need a better torque wrench. The Tekton 1/4" dual-direction is good IME, and the Taiwan-made Harbor Freights come highly recommended around here.

Or if you want to drop $250 and never worry again, buy an SK.
Actually it's a brand new HFT 1/4". 2

After breaking that bolt, may be I am over thinking this. But looking at the distance pointed by the arrows, with TB guide cup on (left image) the harmonica balancer looks like it's pushed more out. Is that much distance how it's supposed to be?

 

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Actually it's a brand new HFT 1/4". 2

After breaking that bolt, may be I am over thinking this. But looking at the distance pointed by the arrows, with TB guide cup on (left image) the harmonica balancer looks like it's pushed more out. Is that much distance how it's supposed to be?

As long as it's made in Taiwan and not China (I don't use them personally, but everybody else swears by the Taiwanese ones vs Chinese).

Dunno about the distance as it sits in your image. What I would do is put the guide washer on, cup facing outward and make sure it's seated flat against the crank sprocket. Then, put on the lower cover, put some antiseize on the crank snout to help the HB slide (not too much, don't want it getting on the TB), put the HB on. Finally, put in the bolt, and torque to 80 ft-lbs (a torque stick and impact wrench makes short work of this). The bolt should push the HB to the right depth.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
I have a jug of synthetic 5w20. I am wondering what is the effect of, and is it bad for the engine, to pour this 5w20 into this car.
What is the effect of mixing half and half with 5w30?
 

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I have a jug of synthetic 5w20. I am wondering what is the effect of, and is it bad for the engine, to pour this 5w20 into this car.
What is the effect of mixing half and half with 5w30?
Close enough(TM). Likely no effect, considering some people run 20W-50.

That being said, I always run what the manufacturer says. My shop manager had a Chevy truck, 5.7L in the early 90's. He took it to a local shop for a tune-up, they put in 5W-20 instead of 10W-30. It started knocking soon after, and he parlayed that "incorrect" oil into them paying half parts and full labor for a new engine. It likely failed for some other reason, he doesn't take good care of his cars, but never give the customer an excuse. People are stupid and think "oh, it wasn't like that before..." is proof of your wrongdoing.
 

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Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)
Hey guys bolt I broke is in pic below, bottom left most, the long type. That was the leaking section that caused all this mess. Now due to this breakage it has a small leak that am afraid will fester back to square A again. Any ideas on how to remove the broken bolt?
 

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Hey guys bolt I broke is in pic below, bottom left most, the long type. That was the leaking section that caused all this mess. Now due to this breakage it has a small leak that am afraid will fester back to square A again. Any ideas on how to remove the broken bolt?
Take off oil pump
use extractor
or if shank is exposed, use stud extractor or pliers
 

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Discussion Starter #137 (Edited)
Take off oil pump
use extractor
or if shank is exposed, use stud extractor or pliers
If anyone knows the sizing of the long bolt?
If I am able to extract it without having to remove OP, then I will skip removal of the other long bolt. Thus, my asking.

EDIT:

Second question,
2 of the oil pan bolts that go into the OP itself are just going round and round, not tightening. I suppose I stripped the receptacle. Short of buying a new OP, is there any tricks/tips you guys would do about this?
 

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If anyone knows the sizing of the long bolt?
If I am able to extract it without having to remove OP, then I will skip removal of the other long bolt. Thus, my asking.

EDIT:

Second question,
2 of the oil pan bolts that go into the OP itself are just going round and round, not tightening. I suppose I stripped the receptacle. Short of buying a new OP, is there any tricks/tips you guys would do about this?
No problems removing the other bolt to check length, if you prepped properly before installing the metal crush gasket, it'll still seal fine. To get the broken shank out, use a regular fluted extractor kit (reverse drill bit in kit).

For the stripped holes, chase them with a tap, M6x1.0 like every other 10mm bolt on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
Bolt extraction went well, actually too well I was flabbergasted. I remembered I had bought a cheapy eBay extraction kit as it made sense, for when I might ever need it. Didn't have to remove OP. I used HFT drill bits to create a pilot hole through OP and just went for it with the trusty cordless Craftsman (HFT wired drill started smoking, it's a poor piss of a toy.)

I used 6x10mm bolts for the stripped Oil Pan holes, they fit snugly, and 6x30 mm on OP; but I think 35's are ok too.

All buttoned up, bone dry and purring like ol'self again, plus a hundred miles to boot. Thanx guys!

 
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