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Discussion Starter #1
Is it possible to share 1 good knock sensor (LH bank) feed to the ECM with the other feed (RH bank) that is now defective? CEL, code =55.

Could I just cut the RH knock sensor feed and instead splice in the LH knock sensor feed @ the ECM?

Currently, I don't have the time or the cash to get the bad knock sensor replaced. Would sharing one good knock sensor in this fashion work?

If so, does anyone know what are the connectors for both knock sensors @ the ECM. I would like to verify this info with my Haynes manual before starting anything.

Car: '93 Camry LE V6, 3VZ-FE -engine.

Thx for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tony, Phi, thx a lot dudes!

This trick worked for my 93' 3VZ-FE.
No more CEL and no pwr loss felt during acceleration.

I measured the resistance on the defective sensor wire and it was giving ~ 2.5M Ohms to gnd.

The good sensor was reading infinity OHMS to gnd.

Just as an FYI for others who want to try this, the RH bank knock sensor is the #1 knock sensor described in the Haynes manual. The LH bank knock sensor is the #2.
 

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MCH Engineer in training
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im also have knock sensor problems......wer are the wires for them so i can test which ones are bad with an ohm meter?????
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ag6286, the wires connect to the ECM via the 16 pin connector - i think it's the 2nd connector - counting from bottom to top.

Unplug the connector and hold it with the terminals facing you. The upper left most pin is pin 1. Counting right side from this point, pin 6 is for RH bank - knock sensor #1.

Directly below this pin = pin 14 for LH bank - knock sensor #2.

***Note: the knock sensor wires are easy to detect since they are in a clear (transparent) insulation.

To reach the ECM you have to remove the glove box and a plastic panel underneath.

With the glove box out of the way, the ECM connectors are readily accessable, infact I didn't even have to unbolt the ECM. Simply, gently unplug the 16 pin connect and fish it downward where you may find more room to splice the wires you need.

Hope that helps.
 

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thanks man, ill try that tom or sumthing if i can get my hands on an ohm meter, wut resistance should be read for a working/connected knock.....both my knock sensors are BRAND NEW and replaced w/my engine, probably forgot to hook one up or sumthin.

should be 0 ohm, about...correct?
 

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Removal

Could you guys help me out with some instructions on how to exactly remove the glove box? I also have check engine code 55, is there any way to test which sensor is bad without cutting or splicing any wires first?
I have a 93 camry with a 3vz-fe motor
 

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'96 Camry XLE
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^ Code 55 is the #1 sensor.

It;s a bitch to change, but I can go it fast at this point, lol. I blew knock sensor #4 last week. Ugh, I hate changing them.
 

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Hey can someone clarify this for me

the top left pin would be #1
the top right pin would be #8

the bottom left pin would be #9
the bottom right pin would be #16?

I just want to be sure about this.
Im guessing the top would be the aprt with the connecting tab ya?
 

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'96 Camry XLE
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^ Didn't I do it when I installed the damn SC on your car????? I thought I relocated it?!?!?!?!?
 

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Is it possible to share 1 good knock sensor (LH bank) feed to the ECM with the other feed (RH bank) that is now defective? CEL, code =55.

Could I just cut the RH knock sensor feed and instead splice in the LH knock sensor feed @ the ECM?


Car: '93 Camry LE V6, 3VZ-FE -engine.
I did this exact thing a few days ago and it worked like a charm!
No more CEL and my timing is back to normal. Now I just gotta hope that the other knock sensor never goes out... lol.
 

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ex tech, new driver
92 Camry XLS 224K
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Will this work? I also have the error for the knock sensor. I see there is a bolt knock sensor. I am thinking of bolting it to the block and connecting to the old connector. It may not have the exact resistance to knocking, but should give some active use. Since the connectors come out under the intake manifold, can we jump them there to share if we cannot use the other sensor?
 

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Wire Knock Sensor 2 input with Knock Sensor 1

This was SO cool......and saved me huge $$$$ to pass inspection in BC, Canada. Replacing the knock sensors is a $2,000 job here.

I failed the first Air Care with a P0330 alarm.

Knock sensor 2 was not dead but really doing weird things. I could take the battery connection off, and then put it back on and drive for hours.... no alarm. However, every time I turned it off for 2 hours, when I started it, I got an alarm to check engine and the code was always P0330. Also, it would not clear the catalyst or evaps monitors???? not sure how this was connected to the knock sensor????

So I can pass Air Care with one monitor not clear.......but not two monitors not clear.

SOLUTION

So I cut the wire for knock sensor 2 (remove glove box, 4 Phillips screws and 1 bolt on 2001 Camry LE, V6, 2 knock sensor inputs are on R11).

Wiring is here for my 2001 Camry:

http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinfo/Wiring Diagrams/13MZ-FE/Camry/


So the KNKL and KNKR are connector E11, pins 27 and 28. They have clear insulation and different than all the other wires in that connector...seem to be a thicker gauge wire or thicker insulation.

I cut the wire going into pin 28 about 2 inches from connector R11....knock sensor 2 and the computer started behaving like it should.....if I disconnect the battery to reset the computer, and then reconnect the battery, start the car and drive, I would get the alarm for no knock sensor 2 within 1 km.

Great....finally something working like it should. This is what should happen when there is no knock sensor connected!!!!

Then I spliced the wire the was connected to E11, pin 28 (the 2 inches mentioned above) to the wire from knock sensor 1 going to pin 27 of E11. So essentially the knock sensor 1 was feeding E11, pin 27 and 28 from the same sensor with paralllel wiring.

It worked!!! No more alarms. Also catalyst monitor ran immediately and I was through Air Care in 15 minutes!!!

The bad part from a moral or ethical perspective is that my emissions did not change a bit....same as they were for the last two years and will be for the next two years! All I did was rewire some computer signals. Shows what a useless waste of money most of these AirCare inspection places are!
 

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Oh dear, this is a tad worrying, wiring both knock lines to one sensor....

Anyone care to explain what is going to happen to your engine if the bank that ISN'T being monitored runs lean?

Big badda boom.

Both knock sensors are there to retard the timing if one bank has a lean running cylinder, you guys are playing a dangerous game of detonation roulette, you're only running knock protection on one bank.
 

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'96 Camry XLE
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11,238 Posts
The 1MZ knock sensors are SO bloody sensitive it still works fine, even when you run off one relocated to the outside of the engine.
 

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it lives..and spins wheel
97 Avalon
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613 Posts
that and just run 93 octane right? :hi:<-- i do
i've done this as well. and havent had an issue.

IMO if you dont drive your car like sh!T . or maintain it like sh!T or put crappy gas in it.. i think you'd have nothing to worry about.


NOW I KNOW . that the 1mz's are not labeled for 'premium' fuel . but i believe they should use it. as a precaution if you love your engine THAT much.

but i question. i remember a few cars from the 90's that had about a 10.5+:1 compression ratio.(preludes. and a few others) BUT "REQUIRED" hi-octane.
how does our 10.8:1 sneak by on 87?..
oh it doesn't IMO. it's watched very closely via computer/knock sensors and being dumbed down constantly by these same things.
 

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'96 Camry XLE
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I a running a 2MZ which is 10.9:1, lol. There is quite a noticeable diff between 87 and 93. I only use 93 now on this engine.

The 94-96 1MZ says in the owners manual 91 is recommended but 87 is ok. I pretty much usd 87 till I boosted it then never used anything other then 93 or 94. When it was tuned it was on 94 with a relocated knk sensor.
 
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