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Footwell light to domelight DIY

61064 Views 124 Replies 47 Participants Last post by  wayne m.
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· ASE Master Technician
2006 Lexus GS430
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:clap: Very nice!
 

· Registered
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nice lights. im sure theres an easier way tho. how did you do the lights in the cubby hole? i've also added lights in mine, one of my first mods. i put a switch on the back of the part that opens so when the door is fully open my lights will come on.
 

· =]
nasa space shuttle
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
^ yes you are correct there is a easier method, such as taping into the fuse to leave the lights on when the key is in or tap it into the courtesy lights but that will only turn them on when the door is opened. I used the domelight because when you unlock your car the lights will turn on and when and you lock it than it will turn off. pretty much teh same concept as puddle lights.
 

· It's Soo Hoo like Yoo Hoo
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3,628 Posts
awesome writeup dude! although im not sure i could use the dome light in your location since i have the gen 5.5 which has the domelight in the middle of the roof and 2 reading lights where the moonroof controls are.. im assuming it would be the same wiring though.
 

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What would be a good gauge of wiring? Also like touring camry said cant i just add a fuse? But i might not at all sine they are on like for less than a minute everyday

16 gauge should be fine. i would worry more about if the insulation of the speaker wire could handle the heat if anything. but assuming 700ma at 12V would produce 8.4 watts of heat, correct me if im wrong please. so it should be fine considering the short amount of time they will run.
 

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16 gauge should be fine. i would worry more about if the insulation of the speaker wire could handle the heat if anything. but assuming 700ma at 12V would produce 8.4 watts of heat, correct me if im wrong please. so it should be fine considering the short amount of time they will run.
8.4W is correct, but it's not 8.4W of heat, and not 8.4W of heat in the wire. Some of it is lost in the wire as heat, some in the ballast as heat, some heat from the tubes, and some visible light energy.

I used a 1A fuse in my setup in case the wire was cut somehow and shorted or there was some malfunction in the lights or ballast. The fuse holder was less than $1 and the fuses were $1 or so for 4 pieces. Cheap insurance. I put it there to protect against frayed, damaged wiring, or some other malfunction that causes excess current draw creating a potential fire hazard.
 
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