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Discussion Starter #1
NOT my Toyota, but my daughter's '97 CR-V, but ties in with gobs of threads here and everywhere.

I am done with aftermarket parts on anything approaching criticality. When I had to replace my daughter's (19 year old kiddo, so still my baby girl!) LBJs, I went with a part that purports to be better than OEM, blah blah. Lower cost a bit too. Installed them about October of 2014, so maybe 15 months ago. Last night this happened.



She was moments from getting off the Interstate - 3 or so minutes earlier and.... ? She was right next to a strip mall so lurched in and parked. I drove down today to see what was what and found that. All wheel drive so I could not tow it - had to flat bed tow it to an in-law's house which happened to be about 1 mile away (convenient). DESTROYED the cv-axle - nuts were falling out of the torn boot and the wheel cocked outwards more and more. She had parked nose in to a store front so I had to drive it backwards to allow the truck to front end load it on the deck. Awful.

Anyway, that crap is over - no way I will ever put non OEM parts on any of my vehicles for suspension parts and other critical areas. I am just praying the tranny is not destroyed. Have to drive back down there this weekend to begin tearing it all down then replace parts. If she has been carrying her insurance like she says she has maybe we'll file a claim. But being 19....may not have been telling us the truth about that. Grrrr.
 

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Sorry to see what is happened to your car. may I ask what is the manufacturer of that ball joint you got on there?
 

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I wise word of warning for those posting endlessly about trying to save $10-20 on an aftermarket part....
...especially on parts so critical to "structural safety"
...from tires to brakes to suspension parts, life-critical parts we should never try to skimp on....
Literally...penny-wise pound foolish no more true here than anywhere.
 

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2005 Corolla CE
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NOT my Toyota, but my daughter's '97 CR-V, but ties in with gobs of threads here and everywhere.

I am done with aftermarket parts on anything approaching criticality. When I had to replace my daughter's (19 year old kiddo, so still my baby girl!) LBJs, I went with a part that purports to be better than OEM, blah blah. Lower cost a bit too. Installed them about October of 2014, so maybe 15 months ago. Last night this happened.


She was moments from getting off the Interstate - 3 or so minutes earlier and.... ? She was right next to a strip mall so lurched in and parked. I drove down today to see what was what and found that. All wheel drive so I could not tow it - had to flat bed tow it to an in-law's house which happened to be about 1 mile away (convenient). DESTROYED the cv-axle - nuts were falling out of the torn boot and the wheel cocked outwards more and more. She had parked nose in to a store front so I had to drive it backwards to allow the truck to front end load it on the deck. Awful.

Anyway, that crap is over - no way I will ever put non OEM parts on any of my vehicles for suspension parts and other critical areas. I am just praying the tranny is not destroyed. Have to drive back down there this weekend to begin tearing it all down then replace parts. If she has been carrying her insurance like she says she has maybe we'll file a claim. But being 19....may not have been telling us the truth about that. Grrrr.
I love the save a buck like the next guy, but that usually means finding the lowest price on the quality part.

When I did the wheel bearing in my Camry, I took a good 5 or 6 hours finding part numbers and scouring the internet before I finally found a new in box Koyo bearing for like $40 from some random reseller.

Like you have learned, parts quality is everything when you plan on keeping the car. Sometimes you can find the truly OEM equivalent without the manufacturer logo (Aisin water pump, Koyo bearings, Mistuboshi Timing Belt, Denso Sensors, etc.), sometimes you gotta go OEM (ball joints, VVT-i solenoids, sway bar end links, etc.), and sometimes it doesn't matter (oil filters, cabin filters, batteries, etc.).

At least everyone is alright and you got to share your experience. Not nearly as bad as your situation, but I posted this a while back:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/1104761-beware-cheap-brake-rotors-my-bad-experience.html
 

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2015 4 Runner SR5
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
These are Mevotech, and after some searching last night I found some posts on various forums that the brand seems to have gone downhill a bit in the last few years. Just words on the 'net so who knows how "true" it is, but like I have seen people post about Moog, some claim that the parts have become outsourced to lowest cost then the brand slapped onto them. Other Honda people in Honda forums claim to have used Mevotech on their rides for years, so who knows. There always exists some defects in any brand...all I know is I have a shot LBJ and who knows how much stuff destroyed. Wait until you see the cv pics I'll take this weekend. Which is a weird thing, as when I replaced her steering rack this summer I had accidentally bought a new cv-axle for that side thinking it needed replacing (her driver side did), forgetting I had replaced that axle about a year prior. So I have a brand new axle sitting still in the box in my garage. At least there is that!

Oh and the possible irony here is that OEM ball joints are not that much different in cost than what I paid: at least not from what I am seeing now. Grrrr.
 

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Lexus IS350
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Agreed with all of the above. If it's a critical part for safety/engine stuff, don't try saving a buck and using aftermarket parts, find an OEM part. Often times, you can find those OEM parts (or as mentioned above, true OEM equivs like Aisin, etc) online for the same cost as that aftermarket part, or a few bucks more. Non-critical parts, go ahead and save that buck as most of those parts are warranted for life anyways (well, suspension components like sway bar links and what not. Oil filters, it doesn't really matter).
 

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I wise word of warning for those posting endlessly about trying to save $10-20 on an aftermarket part....
...especially on parts so critical to "structural safety"
...from tires to brakes to suspension parts, life-critical parts we should never try to skimp on....
Literally...penny-wise pound foolish no more true here than anywhere.
Yes, very true. I'm still learning the hard way here :headbang::dunno:

I love the save a buck like the next guy, but that usually means finding the lowest price on the quality part.

When I did the wheel bearing in my Camry, I took a good 5 or 6 hours finding part numbers and scouring the internet before I finally found a new in box Koyo bearing for like $40 from some random reseller.

Like you have learned, parts quality is everything when you plan on keeping the car. Sometimes you can find the truly OEM equivalent without the manufacturer logo (Aisin water pump, Koyo bearings, Mistuboshi Timing Belt, Denso Sensors, etc.), sometimes you gotta go OEM (ball joints, VVT-i solenoids, sway bar end links, etc.), and sometimes it doesn't matter (oil filters, cabin filters, batteries, etc.).

At least everyone is alright and you got to share your experience. Not nearly as bad as your situation, but I posted this a while back:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/1104761-beware-cheap-brake-rotors-my-bad-experience.html
These are Mevotech, and after some searching last night I found some posts on various forums that the brand seems to have gone downhill a bit in the last few years. Just words on the 'net so who knows how "true" it is, but like I have seen people post about Moog, some claim that the parts have become outsourced to lowest cost then the brand slapped onto them. Other Honda people in Honda forums claim to have used Mevotech on their rides for years, so who knows. There always exists some defects in any brand...all I know is I have a shot LBJ and who knows how much stuff destroyed. Wait until you see the cv pics I'll take this weekend. Which is a weird thing, as when I replaced her steering rack this summer I had accidentally bought a new cv-axle for that side thinking it needed replacing (her driver side did), forgetting I had replaced that axle about a year prior. So I have a brand new axle sitting still in the box in my garage. At least there is that!

Oh and the possible irony here is that OEM ball joints are not that much different in cost than what I paid: at least not from what I am seeing now. Grrrr.
What I've learn recently is ALWAYS...ALWAYS check to see if OEM/Genuine is CHEAPER or around same price. I've learned that sometimes going after market may cost even more. It's like going to walmart becuase you expect everything to be cheaper, so you don't second guess your decision...only until you find out that another small local business in your area sells the same thing for 2 for *same price*....

If aftermarket is cheaper by a decent amount, get the best after market. I usually get Moog or the top tier brands without issues.


Like getting the front top spring insulator for the Camry. The Genuine is a one piece top spring insulator + strut boot while the generic KYB is a two piece design. Having a one piece design helps installing the spring, although the quality of the boot seems better with KYB. Cost though and fit is of course better with Genuine.

Like wise, getting a PITA part replace...spend the extra money knowing it will fit fine versus getting an aftermarket one for 1/4 the cost...but not having it work 100% right...
 

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Glad no one was hurt. Hope the collateral damage is not too much.

I've had great luck, for the most part, with aftermarket parts. The exception to this was once on a 1973 Vega fuel pump and once on a 1991 Caravan fuel pump. Since then, only OEM fuel pumps.

When I purchase from RockAuto, I never go with the "economy" stuff. Same way with places like O'Reilly's, NAPA, and the Zone. I don't buy the premium parts, per say, but I never purchase the lowest price el cheapos. I've also had good luck on good, low mileage salvage parts.

Now, excuse me while I go knock on a whole lot o' wood after these statements. Again, glad your daughter's OK!
 

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イリジウム
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For completeness, Toyota certainly had their share of shoddy ball joint designs that were recalled. Vehicle lifetime is usually defined as 10 years or 100K miles, so it's reasonable to expect replacement then preventatively.

Lexus had a lot of headaches with ball joint failures too. I guess OEM while better than most is no guarantee of quality. [Edit: Working links updated. iOS Safari sucks.]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/126221-my-turn-ball-joint-failure.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ball-joint-failure.520958/
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/679006-lower-ball-joint-failed-with-pics.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html

A Toyota ball joint recall:
https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_ball_joints.html

Mevotech ball joint failure:
https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/first-gen-tundra-2000-2006/561146-2006-tundra-lower-ball-joint-failure.html#/topics/561146

A Sequoia (from the 2nd 4runner thread above):
 

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For completeness, Toyota certainly had their share of shoddy ball joint designs that were recalled. Vehicle lifetime is usually defined as 10 years or 100K miles, so it's reasonable to expect replacement then preventatively.

Lexus had a lot of headaches with ball joint failures too. I guess OEM while better than most is no guarantee of quality.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/126221-my-turn-ball-joint-failure.html‬

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ball-joint-failure.520958/‬

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/679006-lower-ball-joint-failed-with-pics.html‬

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html‬

A Toyota ball joint recall:
https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_ball_joints.html
Only one of those links works.

Post pics of one of your cars I'd love to see what a vehicle looks like loaded with aftermarket parts you pimp over and over.
 

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I'm getting a headache trying to verify if all of JohnGD's links of Toyota parts failures, come up in my browser. XD But I think I have at least 4 out of 5 that 71Corolla listed, that came up okay.

What is interesting, though, is that I had them all open in tabs, and successfully, but then tried to open them all again in more tabs (don't ask me why, just being a dorkhead, I guess XD), and THAT time most of them said 'Link not found.' So 71Corolla, maybe you did that also?

I've just tried to open the 5 you listed yet a third time, and now they again say 'Not found' or 'Error.' But I swear the first time I opened them all (this is using Opera web browser--basically a repackaging of Chrome, on a Windows desktop) they all opened okay.

I'll try nuking the cookies for those websites and see if I can bring the threads up again successfully.
 

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Clearing those websites' cookies didn't help. But, if I open JohnGD's original links "in a new tab," they come up okay. If I try opening the quoted ones from 71Corolla, they don't. Not sure if I tried opening the two different sets of links when they came up okay, but then wouldn't... or what. XD
 

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I don't have a point of reference on OEM LBJ's failing, but I did drive a newer Ford pickup at my job (at a car auction) that had water coming in through the dome light, in the rain. So I know even the best quality control sometimes misses things.

That said... Sometimes Yota ball joints are gonna fail. And sometimes aftermarket ones are gonna work fine.

The OEM version is the better gamble, though, I guess.

And then you say, can I afford to have this fail catastrophically (while on freeway)? If you can't, then buying aftermarket for a critical item isn't worth it.

But, I sure would like to see the "percent premature failure rate" for OEM, versus each aftermarket company. As in, what percentage of the parts they produce, end up going bad early?
 

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You're right I had to get the url directly by quoting the post. From what I can gather those ball joint failures were caused by a lifted suspension or other work that was done. In one link it was a Mevotech part that broke.
After getting home today after this happened, I started reading about MevoTech and it seems VERY common for their ball joints to fail. If any of you guys were thinking about using their parts, or have used their parts, steer clear or think about replacing them with OEM.
 

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Interesting, that is something I missed. So the OEM LBJ failures could be mostly on pickups with a lift kit. Which of course is improper use of the Toyota part.
 

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For ball joints, either go OEM or find 555 brand (genuine made in Japan ones.... not fake or counterfeit) ones.... You know if counterfeit if the price is way too low for a piece, whether OEM or 555 brand.... and 555 have pics on what to look for to detect fakes.


And lastly, dont believe any company that says meets or exceeds OEM specs when it is branded like a MEVOTECH.... or dorman or MOOG, etc.... all of these companies source their parts from china...



Yes, it will be more expensive but the quality is leaps and bounds higher than chinese parts.


Although there are parts that do not need to be made in japan, ball joints is not one of them. low quality ball joint designs will do that and more and your daughter was lucky she was not travelling at high speed when at happened. So moral of the story? Buy only OEMs or genuine Made in Japan parts to avoid problems in the long run.


You can also try finding authorised resellers of 555 brand suspension parts you need to ensure you only get genuine ones.... or go OEM, just make sure it is genuine OEM parts and not a counterfeit... That is why looking for only authorized resellers is a good thing... expensive, yes.... peace of mind, yes.
 
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