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· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hole in my engine so bought a good core. Tore apart, had Tod (engnbldr) tank and bore .020, turned the crank .010, head didn't need surfacing, and he rebuilt the head w/ new guides and springs. Head turned out to be one of his older ones. I bought all the parts from him: Gaskets, bearings, pistons, rings, the works. He put pistons on the rods for me and checked everything out.

Took my time with the build, first 4 cyl rebuild so did a lot of book work and double checking (didn't find this site till the other day). Used assembly lube on everything I needed to. Only thing that didn't really go smooth was I broke one bolt on the W/P because the Chilton said something 25lbs and it turned out to be like 14 or so.

Turned short block many times by hand, and my 7yo did it with a 3/8 torque. It wasn't super easy, but it's new... Right? Installed the head and turned it over with 3/8 wrench several times ~ 10 times. Adjusted the valves to .07 and .11 cold and cranked it a couple revs.

Engine finally in after figuring out the vacuum lines, scavaging bolts that were originally missing, trying to put things back in the proper places and rerouting to look good I finally turned it over with battery out of my corolla. It turned kinda slow, just sounded tight but normal for no oil being pumped yet and being new. lasted about 5 seconds tops, then it stopped. Key off then try again, the starter went click, click, click. 2a.m. so went to bed.

New battery and turned about 2 revs then same as night before. Can't turn crank with 1/2in torque wrench. Took starter, and pulleys off but still nothing...

So here I sit, the only thing I can think of is maybe I put the cam in at TDC of the exhaust stroke (180 out)???

I wouldn't think that would lock it up tho?
Took cam gear off and still can't crank by hand!

Last of my ideas is the tranny. It's been sitting for 3 years and its froze/jammed up somehow??? Rear driveline is off, I can turn it, and the front turns too. Obviously the truck is in neutral.

Long post, sorry I just about ready to burn this thing to the ground!

Thanks in advance.
 

· Languishing in Virginia
1994 XtraCab 4x4 P/U
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2,033 Posts
He said the driveshaft was off and he could turn the tranny from the rear.

Did you check the bearing clearances with plastigauge?

The 22rea is an interference engine, so cam off 180 degrees could cause a similar condition.
 

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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am thinking that I may have a rod cap on backwards. I am positive on the mains, but I was iffy on the caps and didn't think it was all that big of a deal since they were all machined. I am told different by the machinist now tho.

Tonight the Front diff is being pulled along with the pan. I sure hope it continues to rain on me while I do it too... Good times!
 

· YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,446 Posts
Hard to imagine what would be wrong with the trans, but it sounds like you did not have a problem till it was bolted up to the trans.

If the rod caps were on backwards and it was tight enough to lock it up I would think it would have been evident during assembly.

Something with the thrust bearings might not show up till you put load on it, like pressing the clutch while cranking.

Now after having said all that, A co-worker was doing an engine for himself many years ago and had the crank machined. reassembled everything like you have, went to crank it and it tightend up. He tore it apart to find a pile of shavings had been left in the crank. Once he cranked it and it started to build oil pressure, it flushed them out damaging the crank and one of the rod bearings.

Pull the trans and see if it is still tight. If so you've really got no choice but to start taking it apart till you find whats wrong.

Good luck,

Victor
 

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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update

Took front diff off, pan off.
2 rod caps off and 2 loose. 2 mains off and other 3 loose.
Still can't turn by hand. I can spin shafts into trans just fine, but that doesn't really tell much cuz that's only from the t-case

gonna pull trans in the am, doesn't look to complicated.
If anyone has insight to make easier, just let me know.

Thanks all
 

· One with the farce
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4,374 Posts
Did you get the pistons in the right way around? I think you're going to have to pull it apart and check the pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Engnbldr living up to reputation

Well, long story short and after pulling transfront and diff. (needed overhaul anyway). Dropped crank from the bottom and the rear thrust washer was chewed up a bit. So, turns out I put it in backwards. Good thing I didn't actually run it.

Anyway, EPN/engnbldr did the machine work and I am lucky enough to live less than 10 miles away from him. I took it by to have him look at crank and washer. He is going to hook me up with new washers and fix the spot on the crank too.

Totally my fault, but just as expected he runs his shop like a local business should be ran and he will keep getting my repeat business as well as my referalls. All around good guy with a lot of understanding and a great ethic.

And yes I plastiguaged everything. Rods and mains were right in the middle of tolerances. He does good work. He isn't expensive, and he won't F you over. If it is wrong he'll make it right. It's worth the shipping cost if you aren't as fotunate as I am to live close by.

Thanks Tod
 

· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
lesson learned

I know, I know!

Kinda found this site and others a little late and the FSM would have been a lot more helpful then the (insert several expetives here) Chilton I used for the first half of the build. I found some torque specs wrong and a lot of figure out on your own vagueness along the way.

I'll call it an easy and inexpensive lesson learned and just a Saturday afternoon wrenching. On the up side it made me pull the tranny and front diff which needed a good changing and bearing/seal replacement anyway.

Thanks everyone, and to those that stumble on this post in the future...

FSM and ENGNBLDR WILL SAVE YOUR BEHIND!!!
 
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