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イリジウム
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You can change only one side. But for things like this (and brake pads, struts, rotors, brake hoses), it's usually done for both sides of an axle. But if money is tight, you can always do one and later the other.

The rear trailing arm has nothing to do with the front wheel bearing. Is it bad? IIRC there is a ball joint type end on it (or the non-adjustable one, dunno). So it can move around like the tie rod ends and still be good. So double check.
 

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You can change only one side. But for things like this (and brake pads, struts, rotors, brake hoses), it's usually done for both sides of an axle. But if money is tight, you can always do one and later the other.

The rear trailing arm has nothing to do with the front wheel bearing. Is it bad? IIRC there is a ball joint type end on it (or the non-adjustable one, dunno). So it can move around like the tie rod ends and still be good. So double check.
I know that has nothing to do with the rear but they are loose. He did say to let's try the sway bar links 1st but I don't want to keep re-ordering. I went through that a couple of weeks ago till now. Put on front sway bar links and held out on control arms only having to come back to order them. $ is tight but need b/c of 2 disabled persons plus long distance driving. And are you saying that only 1 side (driver side) can be changed when it comes to the wheel bearing kit?
Car was bought at auction almost 1 yr ago. 211k+ miles.
 

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JohnGD I would like to apologize. After rereading one of my posts I see where I confused you concerning the wheel hub and rear sway bar links.as well as trailing arms.
 

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I thought you were the original person who posted this...with 211k Id suggest both sides of the wheel hub assembly...For now replace one but consider the other side in the future. You can replace one at a time is what we are saying but usually they are replaced in pairs...

"JohnGD View Post
You can change only one side. But for things like this (and brake pads, struts, rotors, brake hoses), it's usually done for both sides of an axle. But if money is tight, you can always do one and later the other. "
 
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イリジウム
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No problem. If that's what the mechanic truely believes, then replace those links. However, I believe one end has a ball joint like part, so for those who don't work on these often might think it's "loose". ;) I want to mention this point, before you spend, just in case.

And if you do get the links, check that ball joint end. And when the old part is pulled, check that too and compare. The old one should move easier, but there should be no play other than allowing to rotate.


JohnGD I would like to apologize. After rereading one of my posts I see where I confused you concerning the wheel hub and rear sway bar links.as well as trailing arms.
 

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@JohnGD

Would it be best to get that checked out at the dealer. Whatever type of mechanic would be better? I had another mechanic before this one but burned my bridge when I no longer used his svcs (its been several yrs now). Not so much of burned but my main mech there even confirmed how expensive it was there so I haven't been there since. Found this one. A big rep,great mech and extremely reasonable.
I was just on the Timken site trying to find the correct part # for the "WHEEL BEARING and HUB ASSEMBLY" but can't figure that out like how I did "partsgeek" and "apw." Will still try Rock Auto one last time though. But would still like the correct part # from the Timken site.
 

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イリジウム
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You can ask your current mechanic to point it out problems while he replaces the bearing, if the insurance company will let you in the service bay for obvious liability reasons of course. ;) Let me take a step back and ask these questions: so why do the stabilizer links have to be repalced? :D And the wheel bearing? trailing arm link? Are you hearing noises, having abnormal tire wear patterns? You asked about the hub bearing kit. Hub, bearings, axle nuts and snap rings can be bought separately, do you need a new hub? etc?

Are you getting noises and uneven tire wear pattern in the back? You'd need an have the alignment checked after the replacement of course. That's the case for any suspension component. A good alignment tech will make the difference, even with a good, calibrated equipment like a Hunter alignment machine. (http://www.hunter.com/alignment/) Some members use Firestone's lifetime alignment. Pay once like $150 and get lifetime alignment. Make sure the contract allows you to change suspension parts and still honor the service. See also: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...oint-replacement-situ-pics-2.html#post3636619

Given it's a $45 part, it might not be worth it to pay a dealership diagnostic fee. Another thing that you can do is talk to the service rep at a dealership, and see if that's something they can check for you if you bring the car in and get an oil change next time - and only pay for a standard oil change ($30-35) not the excessive diagnostics per hour kind of fee. At least you'll get something useful back other than a few more words on a big bill.

Yes, it's always good to verify the application using the parts company's website. Let's see:
* Rockauto lists HA590303K.
* Timken homepage, click on "Timken Catalogs" -> "Automotive Aftermarket Bearing and Seal Application Catalog (1990 and newer)" (PDF 13.2M).
On page #421 it also lists HA590303K. I wonder why Toyota changed the bearing in 2004 (Gen 5.5), while yours still uses the Gen 4 bearing. You might get a NSK or Koyo bearing in the package, which is an OEM Toyota bearing without the dealer price.

A few more things, when installing wheel bearings, I firmly believe it's very important to set the preload correctly by properly torquing the axle nut, and not just impact wrench it in place. Even dealer mechanics don't always do this.

Check out the Deeza stabilizer links. Get the non-greaseable ones. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...em-sway-bar-end-links-vs-new-deeza-links.html

See also: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2001/368023-12-mpg-city-winter-1mz-fe-23.html He needed to source a new hub because the bearing was too far gone and took out the hub (scratched). So you might get by with only a bearing, or you might need a new hub. Read up on his experience.

Rockauto - if you do use it, enter the 5% off code: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...084-rockauto-discount-code-9.html#post6026730
 

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@JohnGD Replaced the 2 front sway bar links (same as stabilizer bars I presume) first, got alignment found out I needed the control arms next. The front tires make noise like how one op described earlier and makes the front feel like its wobbling;different than that of an alignment pull. The rear keeps feeling like it needs struts (all have been changed before-KYB's),heavy clinging noises,mechanic checked and said it was the rear sway bar links. He checked the trailing arms,said they were loose but said lets try the sway bars first.
At first he couldn't hear the noise with the wheel. Then after listening carefully he fully determined it was the hub bearing. Before that he had it on the lift where he inspected the wheels (brand new) and found nothing. He said to get the driver side only but like how one op said because of the amount of miles (211k) then I should get both sides. Aren't the hub and wheel bearing the same thing?
I more than appreciate you letting me know which part #'s I needed. Didn't mean to have you do my homework but I didn't understand what was what after I tried to put in one code from another site and came up with nothing. And now that you said to use a greaseless part in one, I would have picked the wrong one.
And the Deeza part, I would never have thought about and I did see the Koyo and NSK brands. They were sold out so I figured they were well known parts.
To you and others I more than appreciate these learning lessons.
 

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Hello. Today I replaced the wheel bearing & hub assembly (driver side) with Timken from Autozone ($139-28[20% off coupon]=$111+$9 tax=120]. I wrote this out b/c I didn't think about Amazon ($77-$25 if you have an AMEX cc and signed up for their Sync promo) until later (tired and a little desperate). This Autozone had the last Timken in my area, so it seems.
That being said, being that I have high miles ($211K+) isn't it still wise for me to do the passenger side as well? I'm about to replace the rear sway bar links. The DEEZA's seem to price out the same as the MOOG's while Beck?Arnley seems to cost more. Rockauto site says they don't have part #TY-L617 (non-greaseless) so I will call them the next day to find out for sure. Or just go about the Amazon site.
 

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Hello. How is everyone? JohnGD, how are you? I've still been working on my suspension problem. I replaced both wheel hub bearings, control arms, sway bar links (front and rear) and bought the lifetime alignment from Firestone. But its still pulling to the left. Everything seemed to be cured except for the front right (camber from -1.8 -1.7 still red) and the right rear remained the same ( camber -2.2 still red).
 

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イリジウム
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Was the car involved in a collision before? Any subtle sign of that? Are the brake caliper anchor pins moving freely (two fingers' worth of pressure in moving them), and the pads in the brackets?

The pull to the left could be the more negative camber on the right. On level ground, measure the ground to the edge of the wheel well fender. Are both sides equal? Also measure the ground to subframe clearance where the front of the control arms bolts to the subframe. Are both sides equal? And the rear of the control arm where the bolt goes.

You mentioned the struts were changed with KYBs. If they aren't done right that could cause pulls too. Read this article about the side-way pull on a 2003 Toyota Avalon: http://www.motor.com/article_pdf_download.asp?article_ID=2057
 

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I've been wondering the same thing concerning the collision part (bought from an auction). Doesn't appear to have been. When turning you can feel it wobble-like. The left toe front (0.47), total toe (1.30),steer ahead (0.18) and the others I mentioned earlier were bad. All corrected except the front and rear camber. The rough ride is back. You can feel every hole front and rear (noise clinging in the rear).
I printed out what you said to show my mechanic. If "quick struts" is there a certain brand? Or just have it realigned first.
 
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